washing brake shoes, how to clean?

I have excellent condition brake shoes that need a very serious cleaning, something beyond the brake cleaner spray in the bottle technique. A search on google showed some recommendations for cleaning with soap and water being careful not to use soaps with the perfumes , etc. I did some general cleaning but the linings feel "greasy".

Any thoughts about using a dish washer or???

Thanks for your experienced replies.

Back when they were asbestos you could burn it off. I don't know about the new stuff we have today. If they're that bad, you should probably just have them relined. They can absorb oil pretty deep and if that's the case, you'll likely never get all of it out.

Guessing this is the Reo you were trying to remove the wheel from last week -- are these woven linings?

As an ex brake mechanic, I suggest alcohol. If you either wash them down or soak them in rubbing alcohol they will degrease themselves and the alcohol will evaporate. I used this at the tire shop where I worked for years and it ALWAYS worked to clean the shoes. It even worked with heavy grease in the shoes. You will be amazed. I do not think that there will be damage done to the shoes.

As an ex brake mechanic, I suggest alcohol. If you either wash them down or soak them in rubbing alcohol they will degrease themselves and the alcohol will evaporate. I used this at the tire shop where I worked for years and it ALWAYS worked to clean the shoes. It even worked with heavy grease in the shoes. You will be amazed. I do not think that there will be damage done to the shoes.

That's interesting. Even really super deep seated grease like you find on something that's been absorbing it for years? How long of a soak do you think it would take on average?

Don't know how thick the stuff is on the linings, but you should see clean shoes after 10-15 minutes of soaking. Usually, after scraping with a putty knife, an alcohol soaked rag will take off most all of the residue without soaking the shoe. Just keep cleaning until you see the gray lining exposed. Believe me...it works. I don't think I have ever thrown away fluid/grease saturated shoes unless totally worn out or grooved. I just clean 'em.

As W-Higgins above states, I would bake them. I've had success with that method before. 350 for about 30 min. should take care of them.

As W-Higgins above states, I would bake them. I've had success with that method before. 350 for about 30 min. should take care of them.

Do you do this BEFORE or AFTER the oven is used for other cooking?

Just curious . . .

NTX5467

Do you do this BEFORE or AFTER the oven is used for other cooking?

Just curious . . .

NTX5467

During. Adds just the right taste.

My version was actually to light them on fire, or warm with a torch.

Do you do this BEFORE or AFTER the oven is used for other cooking?

Just curious . . .

NTX5467

I usually just throw a couple of pork chops in with the shoes. Make sure the shoes are on top though; you don't want any more grease dripping on the shoes. LOL.

I personally would never want to resuse brake linings that were severely contaminated with anything, but back in the days when I worked part-time in the repair industry we used alcohol, as others have suggested, for owners too frugal (or foolish) to spring for new linings.

I put them in the washing machine when my wie is no looking or even around ...... the dryer makes a HELLARACKET:)

Hi-I just finished riveting new lining on 35 Chevy standard rear brake shoes. They had been soaked in 90W gear oil from the center section of the axle. Removing rear axles and drums was enough trouble so I didn't want to take a chance on a repeat disassembly.

I've tried various methods for removing Dot 3 brake fluid over the years and did not have much success-the linings usually pulled and/or squealed on reassembly. I'd vote for relining the shoes. I'm not sure there's any good method for removing 90W gear oil-haven't had that much luck in removing it from my shop clothes.

If you have nothing but time to spend the soaking methods might be worth a try.

Martin Lum

I pre-bake everything before I powder coat it due to the porous property of metal. The heat draws oil and such impurities from the pores where it is vaporized by the heat to ensure a good clean surface to powder coat. Not the same situation as a brake shoe but linings are porous and the same principle applies. With very oily shoes it may take two or three bakings to extract all the impurities, but it will happen. If more than one baking is required wipe off excess impurities with alcohol after each bake. I've used this method before and had shoes to go from black to the nice like new grey color.

VARSOL

I used to soak the shoes in varsol if they had absorbed brake fluid or grease - always had good results

What are you trying to clean off?

Just some basic dirt on the outside or are they soaked in something?

If they are soaked in something that bad then please do not try to reuse them. It is yours and my safety your a talking about. The soaked brake shoes rarely come back 100% and do you really want to risk less than 100%.

Sadly, I made the mistake of asking guys at the local car show how their brakes worked one year. I will not ask that again. I made sure they all were way behind me or in front of me on the road after that. Most admitted to non-working or contaminated brakes or complained of the symptoms of those problems. The excuse was, they do not drive the car much so what does it matter.

I have also baked the shoes , and it does work,, BUT... you have to see how long the other half, (wife) is going to be gone before hand before you do this,, like doing powder coating..., have to make sure you have enought time to air out the kitchen after LOL

I know of a mechanic who cleans them with petrol and just before they dry, lights it to burn off any residue. He says it works a treat, though I've not tried.

Put them in a cheap toaster oven on broil, leave them there for about two hours each, they will be fine. PS Place the toaster oven OUTSIDE! I have done this many times and it works ok as a cheap fix. Reline would be best. Ed

This is a no brainer-BUY NEW ONES.

This is a no brainer-BUY NEW ONES.

Obviously, this would be the more preferred option, but for some and in some cases, it might not be.

Reason???

Other than the fact that brake rebuilders have been greatly diminished in numbers as the "old companies" have either closed or have been purchased by "others", it's become increasingly harder to find a brake rebuilder in a non-metro market area . . . that is NOT mainly concerned with heavy-duty trucks.

Other than that major issue, the linings used in more modern brake re-lines is NOT what it used to be, either. Check the posts by "Old-Tank" in the BCA forums on this issue. One of the few name brand linings will not stop as well as the other name brand linings will, quite significantly so, it seems.

To me, with all due respect, these two issues are significant enough to not complain about people trying to save older brake linings when they can, even some which more affluent owners might have discarded when they were much more readily available in prior times.

There is a certain amount of porosity in the brake linings. Axle lube is a relatively-heavy-bodied grease, so only the lighter factions would penetrate the linings. These factions of grease would be the ones removed by alcohol soaks/wipes. Or the used of "heat" to evaporate them.

As to availability of drum brake linings . . . I have a few Chryslers from the late 1960s to early 1970s. These cars have 11" drum brakes, front and rear. The fronts usually were 3.0" wide, but depending upon drum width, could also be 2.75" and 2.5" wide linings. As time progresses, purchasing 3.0" linings is becoming more difficult. GM used 11" drums, too, but usually only 2.0" wide . . . to stop similarly-weighted vehicles. That can be quite a difference in lining frictional characteristics for equivalent brake line apply pressure!

Who might rebuild the segmented full-metallic brake linings used on the 1961 Impala SS cars, from the factory???

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

Sorry all for dredging up an old thread, I didn't realise until after I posted. I agree that new linings would be preferable, but where do you find them? Moreso here in Australia, I'm yet to track down a supplier of original type material linings. I have heard of the new green stuff that is supposed to work as per original, but don't know what it is called. Can anyone suggest the name or a supplier of OEM parts?

Try BCA Friction Materials. They are at Minto on 8247496.

www.bcafm.om.au.

They are very good with all old car applications for brakes and clutches. I used them recently for some veteren brake linings. Worth a visit to their premises if you can make it.

Thats 9824 7406 for BCA Friction Materials

.

Obviously, this would be the more preferred option, but for some and in some cases, it might not be.

Reason???

Other than the fact that brake rebuilders have been greatly diminished in numbers as the "old companies" have either closed or have been purchased by "others", it's become increasingly harder to find a brake rebuilder in a non-metro market area . . . that is NOT mainly concerned with heavy-duty trucks.

Other than that major issue, the linings used in more modern brake re-lines is NOT what it used to be, either. Check the posts by "Old-Tank" in the BCA forums on this issue. One of the few name brand linings will not stop as well as the other name brand linings will, quite significantly so, it seems.

To me, with all due respect, these two issues are significant enough to not complain about people trying to save older brake linings when they can, even some which more affluent owners might have discarded when they were much more readily available in prior times.

There is a certain amount of porosity in the brake linings. Axle lube is a relatively-heavy-bodied grease, so only the lighter factions would penetrate the linings. These factions of grease would be the ones removed by alcohol soaks/wipes. Or the used of "heat" to evaporate them.

As to availability of drum brake linings . . . I have a few Chryslers from the late 1960s to early 1970s. These cars have 11" drum brakes, front and rear. The fronts usually were 3.0" wide, but depending upon drum width, could also be 2.75" and 2.5" wide linings. As time progresses, purchasing 3.0" linings is becoming more difficult. GM used 11" drums, too, but usually only 2.0" wide . . . to stop similarly-weighted vehicles. That can be quite a difference in lining frictional characteristics for equivalent brake line apply pressure!

Who might rebuild the segmented full-metallic brake linings used on the 1961 Impala SS cars, from the factory???

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

I think safty is first if a car is to be driven on the public roads. If the original system cant be rebuilt to be safe,then its time to retrofit a system that is. I know thats not cheap,or original but think how you would feel about killing someone because you wanted to save couple of bucks. Just my 2 cents.

I think safty is first if a car is to be driven on the public roads. If the original system cant be rebuilt to be safe,then its time to retrofit a system that is. I know thats not cheap,or original but think how you would feel about killing someone because you wanted to save couple of bucks. Just my 2 cents.

These cost-related judgment calls are made every day of the year and have been for the past eons of time, just that WE don't know about it.

Some retrofits can be done which are not really that obvious, unless somebody really knows what they're looking at, which is good, but not everybody desires that level of execution . . . or might know how to get there.

A few weeks ago, a poster in the Chevy truck forum wanted information to add turn signals to his 193_ Chevy pickup. Seems that modern drivers don't know what real hand signals are (or were), as THEY looked for two tail lights only to find ONE. As turn signals were optional or aftermarket add-ons, many of these upgrades can be period-correct, if possible. But to add turn signals would also require TWO tail lights . . . he wanted the OEM-spec ones, though, which are basically invisible to many drivers. To me, it would be better to use the larger, aftermarket replacement lights, which were quite common in these applications.

The vintage or ethnicity of the vehicle has no bearing on repair/upgrade cost issues. They can apply to a 1990 vehicle as well as a 1939 vehicle. Resultant property/life loss or damage would be a shame, either way.

The other observation is that when "low cost patches" are done, they're done for significantly economic issues, including that the particular vehicle is not expected to be owned when the next patch is needed. So, little money spent. Unfortunately, that patch will most likely be needing repairs before the vehicle is swapped. In this case, a little more money to fix it right would have been less expensive in the long run.

Still, though, the issues of finding quality brake reliners in one's locale can be more significant than any money for the repairs. WE need to have confidence in their work and hope for a reasonable price.

The issue with retrofits and upgrades is just how well the work has been done and if the components are really up to the necessary tasks. Many of these things can be found in vendors who advertise in Street Rodder magazine, but there is NOT complete coverage for all older vehicles. Would it be better to have a "shade tree fix" or a vehicle hacked-up/modified with some aftermarket kit or salvage yard parts that are supposed to be bolt-in pieces? Some of these projects don't work out as well as they should have, all things considered. So, in the case of the greasy brake linings, I think I'd try the alcohol soak, several times if necessary, to clean them well. Plus, there are other things which can make a brake "grab" than oil-soaked brake linings.

Regards,

NTX5467

Hi Guys:

Just 2 questions, What kind of alcohol are you guys using to clean the Brake Linings? My Brake linings (1967 BMW Motorcycle) are bonded, (Not Riveted) will the alcohol attack this adhesive???? How about baking: Will the heat damage the adhesive bonding?

Thanks,

Jon B. in NJ. usa

These cost-related judgment calls are made every day of the year and have been for the past eons of time, just that WE don't know about it.

Some retrofits can be done which are not really that obvious, unless somebody really knows what they're looking at, which is good, but not everybody desires that level of execution . . . or might know how to get there.

A few weeks ago, a poster in the Chevy truck forum wanted information to add turn signals to his 193_ Chevy pickup. Seems that modern drivers don't know what real hand signals are (or were), as THEY looked for two tail lights only to find ONE. As turn signals were optional or aftermarket add-ons, many of these upgrades can be period-correct, if possible. But to add turn signals would also require TWO tail lights . . . he wanted the OEM-spec ones, though, which are basically invisible to many drivers. To me, it would be better to use the larger, aftermarket replacement lights, which were quite common in these applications.

The vintage or ethnicity of the vehicle has no bearing on repair/upgrade cost issues. They can apply to a 1990 vehicle as well as a 1939 vehicle. Resultant property/life loss or damage would be a shame, either way.

The other observation is that when "low cost patches" are done, they're done for significantly economic issues, including that the particular vehicle is not expected to be owned when the next patch is needed. So, little money spent. Unfortunately, that patch will most likely be needing repairs before the vehicle is swapped. In this case, a little more money to fix it right would have been less expensive in the long run.

Still, though, the issues of finding quality brake reliners in one's locale can be more significant than any money for the repairs. WE need to have confidence in their work and hope for a reasonable price.

The issue with retrofits and upgrades is just how well the work has been done and if the components are really up to the necessary tasks. Many of these things can be found in vendors who advertise in Street Rodder magazine, but there is NOT complete coverage for all older vehicles. Would it be better to have a "shade tree fix" or a vehicle hacked-up/modified with some aftermarket kit or salvage yard parts that are supposed to be bolt-in pieces? Some of these projects don't work out as well as they should have, all things considered. So, in the case of the greasy brake linings, I think I'd try the alcohol soak, several times if necessary, to clean them well. Plus, there are other things which can make a brake "grab" than oil-soaked brake linings.

Regards,

NTX5467

Going back to the 1950s and 1960s, we used to soak brake shoes in VARSOL.

This was standard procedure when grease seals and/or wheel cylinders started leaking and would contaminate the brake shoe linings !@@#*+%@!!

After the first soak, maybe an hour, scraper off all you can,....

and then soak them again at least overnight...

then allow to dry thoroughly,

then bake at medium (at least 200 - 250 degrees) heat -- for a couple of hours, or until your wife finds out...

this will expel the moisture, allow her to expound on her college-era bar-room vocabulary, remind the whole neighborhood that her mother was right, and ensure that she will permanently expel you from the kitchen...

now you'll be able to buy that 2nd hand electric oven for the garage without a complaint over $$$

Oh, and there is a second king of alcohol to use in conjunction with this method:

While the shoes are soaking or baking, sit back, put your feet up on the desk (but not the kitchen table) and refer to the type of vehicle the brakes came from.

MG-Jaguar-Lotus? -- Foster's Lager or Beefeaters Gin

BMW-Porsche-Mercedes Benz? - Liebfraumilch or Riesling, or a good German dark Bier

Lexus-Subaru-Datsun240Z ? -- a good Saki, and order some Kobi beef to barbecue

Chevy-Ford-Dodge ? - Bud Light or Coors, or maybe Seagram-7 with a beer back (always worked for me)

Packard-Pierce Arrow-Cadillac-Imperial-Stevens Duryea ? Haig&Haig Pinch or Crown Royal or Benedictine

this stuff will let you relax and not be so upset about your brakes

and,

you may as well enjoy the evening since you're not going to be driving for a while anyway

Thanks Marty:

I only have 1 question. My brake shoes are "BONDED" to the shoe holders. (No rivets)

Will the Varsol dessolve the Adhesive or not?

Thanks,

Jon B. Shereshaw

NJ. USA

Going back to the 1950s and 1960s, we used to soak brake shoes in VARSOL.

This was standard procedure when grease seals and/or wheel cylinders started leaking and would contaminate the brake shoe linings !@@#*+%@!!

After the first soak, maybe an hour, scraper off all you can,....

and then soak them again at least overnight...

then allow to dry thoroughly,

then bake at medium (at least 200 - 250 degrees) heat -- for a couple of hours, or until your wife finds out...

this will expel the moisture, allow her to expound on her college-era bar-room vocabulary, remind the whole neighborhood that her mother was right, and ensure that she will permanently expel you from the kitchen...

now you'll be able to buy that 2nd hand electric oven for the garage without a complaint over $$$

Oh, and there is a second king of alcohol to use in conjunction with this method:

While the shoes are soaking or baking, sit back, put your feet up on the desk (but not the kitchen table) and refer to the type of vehicle the brakes came from.

MG-Jaguar-Lotus? -- Foster's Lager or Beefeaters Gin

BMW-Porsche-Mercedes Benz? - Liebfraumilch or Riesling, or a good German dark Bier

Lexus-Subaru-Datsun240Z ? -- a good Saki, and order some Kobi beef to barbecue

Chevy-Ford-Dodge ? - Bud Light or Coors, or maybe Seagram-7 with a beer back (always worked for me)

Packard-Pierce Arrow-Cadillac-Imperial-Stevens Duryea ? Haig&Haig Pinch or Crown Royal or Benedictine

this stuff will let you relax and not be so upset about your brakes

and,

you may as well enjoy the evening since you're not going to be driving for a while anyway

Sorry to be so long getting back to you..

No, the Varsol should have no effect on the bonding of lining to the brake shoe

Good luck.

Why not use conventional break cleaner in an aerosol can sold at all auto parts stores? I have used it on bonded brakes for years with no ill effects. It is not expensive, easy to use and evaporates very quickly.