Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models

The lower air deflector is looking like that:

It is attached at the radiator cradle and at the front fenders. The lower part of the grille is screwed at the front lip. Somebody from one forum sent me a number of pictures and dimensions from that air deflector. Unfortunately, I don't remember who he was; anyway, without those pictures, it would have been difficult to do that part. Thanks!

When I got the pictures, I intended to do that part without delay; fortunately, I waited until the surrounding parts were available as I had to adapt the deflector to the front fenders and not go blind with the dimensions.

The deflector is not yet completely ready; this is a quick test to see if all can go into the allowed space. It seems that I will have trouble with the horns; I will get the confirmation when the grille will be available.

As you see, I had to remove the front clip from the frame as the whole assembly was too cumbersome.

This is another part which is almost ready: I still have to do the holes at the lip to attach the grille. I prefer to drill the holes when I have the grille, for obvious reasons.

Last year, I began to do the third horn; I could not finish it because of possible conflicts with the air deflector. As this part is ready, I could finish the third horn with the hope there will be no bad surprise when I will do the front bumper!

On the real car, many fasteners at the front are bolt and nut. For practical reasons, I'm using captive nuts or the metal is thick enough to have threads into it.

The front end is still not yet ready: there are two brackets attached to the radiator cradle and to the air deflector to add rigidity to the assembly. These are the next parts on the list, as well as to finish the fresh air intake.

Wonderful work and stamina Roger. Always a pleasure to check in on your progress and workmanship.

Geoff

Thanks Geoff!

After more or less finishing the front end of the front fenders, I should go to the rear from the inner fenders. As I had those fenders since a long time in my hands, I'll put aside for a moment, doing the hinges from the trunk lid.

I continue to be thoroughly amazed at the skill of your work.

I can almost imagine that a very small man will be able to get into the car and drive it away once it's finished.

The hinges are looking like that:

Later during the run, more conventional hinges were installed. As the cars I can look at have the first design, I'm staying with it. I'm using thin stainless steel for the levers as this material is stronger than brass, brass for the main supports, reinforced by steel at the spring's attachments. As the trunk lid may be heavy, I will certainly have to do strong springs; this is why I'm reinforcing these critical points with silver soldered steel.

Here are all the parts for both hinges; missing are the 14 pivots and the 4 springs. To machine the pivots will be pure routine; to silver solder them on the various levers without soldering the lever which must stay free will be another matter.

Prior to my September vacation, I tried to make a joint with scrap material. The silver solder flow so well that the assembly was solid! I change my process be brazing one side from the lever where the axle is coming in. This way, I can control the quantity of soldering near the hole.

The next try was with finished parts; it went well. First success, "only" 13 shaft to solder! The second one was a failure again; the solder did flow along the shaft to the mobile part. I could rescue one part, but not the other one.

During the vacation, this problem was turning in my head. I decided that the shaft should be of 2 different diameters: 1 mm for the mobile part, and .8 mm for the part to be soldered; this step should prevent another "accident".

Long ago, I bought a silver soldering paste. Unfortunately, the shelf life is no more than 2 years; what I still have is more or less "kaputt"! At the price this product is sold, I'm not ready to spent again $250 for 1/4 kg; I will search at companies who may use this product to buy a small quantity.

Back from vacation, I did some shaft from the new design and tried a first joint. Success! From there, I could finish the first hinge.

Amazing as always Roger!

Thanks Dan!

Looks like a full sized product from a Ford Motor Company parts catalog!

Looks like a full sized product from a Ford Motor Company parts catalog!

I agree. It has such good detail that it looks life size.

Looks like a full sized product from a Ford Motor Company parts catalog!

That would certainly be the case if I would take a picture from all the parts or assemblies I have already done! I do forget all the time: I should put a coin or something familiar when I'm taking pictures.

Thanks for your comment and interest!

The second hinge went well without major trouble; I just had to replace one axle which sized by dirt. They are now installed on the body, still without springs:

Before I began the hinges, I trimmed the trunk lid to fit it into the aperture. I may have to rework it at the sides to have a better fit. You will also note that there is some rework in the air on the LH door:

I did also the outer edges from the inner lid; the inner lid itself will be made with polyester to save some weight. The red plastiline will help to locate the attachment points for the hinges; this will be the next task.

Roger,

Continues to look fantastic.

Larry

Thanks Larry!

Mr. Z., you continue to amaze me. If I had some silver solder paste that you said you needed, I'd gladly send it to you ! Thanks so much for all this.

Mr. Z., you continue to amaze me. If I had some silver solder paste that you said you needed, I'd gladly send it to you ! Thanks so much for all this.

We should all just pitch in a few bucks. Open up a Paypal account, I am happy to send in $10. This is just great being able to watch such an artist. Dave

Thanks John and Dave for your generosity! I'm afraid that you misunderstood my passing remark about the silver soldering paste. It's not that I cannot afford to pay that amount for the smaller quantity available, I just wanted to say that it a waste to spend so much money and to know that during 2 years I will probably use 1/10 of it. My thinking is be the same if people like you are spending money or if it's from my own account: at the end of that 2 years period, the remaining unused product must be discarded. By the way, I have a PayPal account, but you will not get it!

Don't worry, I will continue to report the updates!

Roger,

I'm still following along just don't chime in often and like the many others that do still find your creative modeling skills amazing. I really like watching this evolve. A thought that just came to mind, would not someone that makes jewelry use this silver solder? Maybe you could check some local jewelry stores that makes/repairs jewelry to see if they might part with some. Just a thought. Scott...

You are right Scott. This is what I will search soon. Thanks for the input!

The trunk lid and the hinges were done; I still had to attach the hinges to the lid. On the real car, the attachment point is part from the inner lid. As this inner lid will be more for the eye than for rigidity, I had to find another method: I did pedestals which are soft soldered directly to the lid. Each hinge is attached with 2 screws to the lid.

Then came the time to adjust the height from the pedestals to have the proper lid alignment with the body. Then I could do the springs to keep the lid open. Each hinge has 2 springs; I'm still not sure about the function from the smaller one.

Edit: They assist effectively to keep the lid open: I removed both small springs; even if their action is minimal, I feel a difference.

The larger springs I did are strong enough to keep the lid open; maybe, when the inner structure and lock will be added, I may have to do stronger springs which are not a big deal.

The trunk lid aperture angle from the model is greater than the real car which is more convenient to have a good look inside the trunk.

Hi, I'm a new (I guess, "junior") member. So I am looking at your work for the first time.

You are clearly a fine craftsman, and I find your work intriguing.

But I have just now "tuned" into your work just in time for the very technique you are about to do next, putting treads into the tires (and for that matter, do you apply brand names/logos on the sidewalls?).

I envy you working in brass on a lathe because it cuts so beautifully.

I actually do mostly casting and fabrication work, and very little lathing. Unfortunately, the metal I have to turn is 6061 aluminum which is somewhat "gummy" compared to brass.

I have a question or three-- I have never thought to use a chisel in the manner you do on your brass. What sort of angle are you approaching the turned piece with your chisel? I'm assuming you are applying your chisel just below the tangent? And how far away is your tool rest?

Thanks!

Oh, and I'll be watching your progress...

Oh! I guess you are substantially farther along than I thought!

The picture I wrote the above remark and questions to had you about to do the treads on the tires!

So I posted my comment, and suddenly I see pictures not only of your more than completed wheels and tires, but you are well along on the body as well!

Give me some time and I'll get the hang of this website sooner or later!

I actually do mostly casting and fabrication work, and very little lathing.

I have never thought to use a chisel in the manner you do on your brass. What sort of angle are you approaching the turned piece with your chisel? I'm assuming you are applying your chisel just below the tangent? And how far away is your tool rest?

Thank you Dwight for your comments. You are doing castings, I cannot...Therefore, I'm doing a lot of silver soldering to replicate cast parts. I'm not using aluminum with one exception: the wheels from the Toronado are done with that material because I had at that time the first Unimat lathe and doing the wheels with brass was hardly possible. Then, aluminum was much cheaper than brass which was important then.

I began working on those aluminum with a chisel. Usually, the chisel is below the tangeant, but sometimes I have to improvise...Same for the angle, you have to try! The tool rest is as near from the part as possible; I'm using usually a wood block. Something important too: I'm using the lower speed as possible to avoid vibration. Once you try on a scrap piece, you get addicted to that method!

What kind of work are you doing?

Roger:

I really looked forward to your response, and was not disappointed when I awoke this a.m.

To answer some comments from your response—

In college, I used a Unimat lathe, and promptly found them “fun,” but that they had too a high cost to too low a torque ratio for my taste. So I moved onto a “grown-up” lathe when it turned out that I had to start turning custom polished aluminum horn buttons of various shapes and diameters (in the 3" to 4” range)— all with slight hemispherical curvatures on the face. I never thought to use a chisel on metal like one would on wood! So what I’ve done for 20+ years is to practice my best coordination using the X and Y axis cranks, which always ends with a concentric circular stepped dome. Then using a big flat bastard file to smooth out the curve afterwards (meanwhile paying more attention to not let the file get caught by a jaw on the fast turning chuck which would throw it right into my face). The chisel idea clearly would be less dangerous, and probably faster too! I’ve never been too proud to take on new techniques and compliment those who give them to me!

Also, I like the idea of using wood as a tool rest, in that it would absorb some of what would otherwise be annoying chatter.

Ok. I just finished page TWO, and all my questions about your tire tread and raised lettering are answered. I’ve still 35 scintillating pages of learning to go! I do have one question based on your soldering the milled tread rings on your tire master. Do I see correctly that you are using a soldering iron to heat that mass of brass up to fusing temperature?

I also am curious how you “sized” the tread rings to the perfect size to mount on your tire master? In my business, sizing rings is easy up to the standard size 15 on a ring mandrel. Your tire looks bigger in diameter. Are you making your tread bands slightly too small and stretching them bigger for a snug fit? If that’s the case, how do you do that without accidentally scratching that perfect right angle edge on the edge of your tire master?

Knowing that you are an engineer, should I presume that you are making these bands the “perfect size” on the first try by using only π D of the inside of the tread bands? Really, how do you make your tread bands the precisely correct inside diameter?

Now, back to page 37 where my postings of yesterday ended up to my chagrin!

There are few people who would venture into forming pieces (like your body parts) as opposed to casting them. I commend you and your unbelievable work, and patience in (what we in my field refer to as) forming of, and construction of individual parts, and then soldering or "cold-connecting" (as in riveting or hinging and the like) these especially miniature pieces together, and then doing the requisite finishing.

Few people understand soldering, and fewer still, succeed in learning. If you are self-taught, I have to say that you ARE incredibly talented, and as I just saw on your page two, I agree with the gentleman who suggested you should show photographs of your real model instead of pictures of a real Avanti (my tongue is firmly planted in my cheek!).

I don't only work with investment castings, but I do forming and construction work too. I have a Master of Fine Arts Degree in Silver and Goldsmithing. I've made art pieces that were the foundation of my learning how to fabricate small objects; and many pieces have found their way to various exhibitions and collections of note.

However, when I graduated, there was little call for hand-made silver holloware. So my first foray was to the Metalsmith's default plan, i.e., developing a line of jewelry (in my case, based on automotive themes).

And that’s where I found my niche by combining my metal-making talents with my lifelong love of automobiles.

I make a lot of one-off automobile parts for one-off high-end cars. I enjoy making one-off script emblems and alterations on factory/carrossier badges and the like. I like researching and making hardware (that no longer exists) from scratch for autos that have lost some of their original hardware. I’ve made a lot of Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost parts. I’ve done everything from Crafts-era light fixtures to furniture to neon signage to recently spending two years doing conservation work on a 1/9th scale 1934 CV Imperial Airflow model that was made by the Chrysler Design Studio in 1934. Actually, you’d be interested I’m sure, that the reason for my getting that job initially started with making a new right half mirror-image reproduction of the left half of the hood ornament (the model is cut in half longitudinally right through the middle of the hood ornament— of which the right half was lost long ago).

Thirty years ago, I started making photo props for Road & Track Magazine, which transcended into making their celebrated steering wheel trophies that they continue to give at all the major concours or other venues. Enough about me.

I have just finished page TWO! I am truly amused with using paint for the raised lettering on your tires! When I made a 911-R Porsche rear deck emblem for a gentleman years ago, I was confounded on how to put the convex dot pattern on the bar that ties the lettering together (short of cutting identical divots into the silicone mold, which would basically be impossible). So I didn’t even try. NOW I know how I could have done it, thanks to you!

Luckily, I don’t have to wait three years to get up to speed like most of your faithful followers!

I have a feeling I’ll be writing to you very soon!

Sincerely,

Dwight Bennett

Dwight,

Sounds like you are an accomplished craftsman. Is that you with Jay Leno? Have you made parts for his collection?

Geoff

Hi Geoff:

Almost four years ago, Jay's curator called me and asked me about repairing his Chrysler Imperial CX Airflow's broken hood ornament. Before the end of the phone call, he asked me if I'd like to come up to the Garage and consult with Jay about how I'd fix it. Meanwhile Jay had come by a replacement original piece; but he was interested in looking at the other work I do, and he recognized immediately the trophy I make that R&T presents at Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance every year.

So he invited me up to be interviewed on the trophy and a few other objects for his website.

You can see the interview at Jay Leno's Garage site, under "videos," and then under "extras." You'll see him holding up my steering wheel trophy.

Despite not having done work specifically for Jay, I've done many parts for many of the cars that are invited to Pebble Beach each year.

Thanks for asking,

Dwight

Roger:

I make a lot of one-off automobile parts for one-off high-end cars. I enjoy making one-off script emblems and alterations on factory/carrossier badges and the like. I like researching and making hardware (that no longer exists) from scratch for autos that have lost some of their original hardware.Sincerely,

Dwight Bennett

Dwight, were you the one who made the Jerrari script on Bill Harrah's Ferrari powered Jeep Wagoneer?

Links are allowed:

http://www.nbc.com/jay-lenos-garage/video/automotive-trophy-sculptor-dwight-h-bennett/2795038?onid=155411#vc155411=1

Pat:

I wish I could say I had made the Jerrari script emblem.

I most certainly could have made the Jerrari script emblem, but I believe both Jerraris were made prior to my leaving college.

I have never seen a clear image of the Jerrari script. I cannot tell if someone merely used the Jeep’s “J," and the Ferrari’s “errari,” by essentially soldering them together, or if the “J" was made in the same typeface as the stock Ferrari script? The latter is what I’d have done. I also would have made the finished piece out of cast bronze for strength, as soldering the Jeep’s pot metal “J” onto the thin line that connects all the letters of “errari” would be a broken emblem waiting to happen.

Recently I went to a local car show that had a lowered customized Corvair. The owner named his car “Lovair” and altered his stock Corvair cursive script by removing the top part of the C, so that it had a very “rounded L." Before I knew he had named his car Lovair, I noticed the script, and wondered why a car that was otherwise pristine, had a broken Corvair script on it? I finally figured it out, that the owner was trying to pass this altered C as an L. But it just looked like a broken script to me. I personally would have made an all new script emblem for him by figuring out what the typeface’s L would have looked like, and would have made it that way. But then, that’s the way I approach emblems...

Thanks for asking!

Dwight

Do I see correctly that you are using a soldering iron to heat that mass of brass up to fusing temperature?

I also am curious how you “sized” the tread rings to the perfect size to mount on your tire master? In my business, sizing rings is easy up to the standard size 15 on a ring mandrel. Your tire looks bigger in diameter. Are you making your tread bands slightly too small and stretching them bigger for a snug fit? If that’s the case, how do you do that without accidentally scratching that perfect right angle edge on the edge of your tire master?

Knowing that you are an engineer, should I presume that you are making these bands the “perfect size” on the first try by using only π D of the inside of the tread bands? Really, how do you make your tread bands the precisely correct inside diameter?

Well, Dwight, you are more prolific in writing than me! And, with the amount of things you are doing, creating your own thread would be useful, especially for people who are not looking at my own.

You have a lot of questions, I will try to answer them all. Using a file to soften the contour of a part is OK (I'm doing that too) but when there is a recess, another method is to be used. Here too, the danger to have the tool catched by a jaw is a reality; even with low speed it can hurt!

You are right, I'm using a soldering iron to attach the bands to the master tire. It required to have either gloves or a good protection for the hands...The bands are just soldered at 4 or 5 places, because the more you solder the band(s) the more cleaning you have to do by removing the excess solder. I did the bands longer than needed and trim them individually as needed. As they are made with brass, they cannot be elongated.

However, there are other methods to do tires; if you have the oportunity to go to http://www.scalemotorcars.com/ you will also see fantastic things.

As I noted somewhere, I'm not the "inventor" from all the methods I'm using, like for example using paint for the letters on the tires. This is the method described by Gerald Wingrove, a modeller by trade, in one of his books.

Thanks to West Peterson who gave the link to your discussion with Jay Leno. I was far away to imagine that my thread would indirectly involve Jay!

To be complete, the trunk lid needs a lock. I did already trunk locks for my other models; there should be no difficulties here! However, there are some: the striker is not vertical but pointing towards the rear; the lock itself has the same incline. The sheet metal from the trunk is inclined towards the front; how can I fix all together? I don't know yet; there will be a solution the next few days. I did some prototypes; some parts are already (I hope) definitive...For the moment, I have those parts on hand:

Rger,

How do you cut the smallest parts? I would guess that you drill the hole first, but I can't imagine how you get the outline cut. The edge of the part looks very clean.

Geoff

The process is correct: first the hole and then...working with a file, a small one of course! Probably for the definitive part I will mill the part. Sometimes it's quicker with a file...Such small parts are clamped in my small vice. A magnifier glass is also required!

As you can see from the picture, the lock is partly done and strong enough to lift the rear of the model. This picture is also telling where the long part from my previous picture is going: to the lower inner structure from the lid.

The lock is temporarily attached to that structure with a bracket because if I'm soldering it to the exterior lock cover, it would be impossible to make corrections/adjustments to the inner levers as I could not remove them for rework. This is the main difficulty from this lock.

Now, I will have to do something different, but related to the lock: the lid ornament. As the key to open the trunk is going through this ornament, I have to do it now. If I would solder the inner structure to the lid and close it, it would stay for ever closed...

It's not the right place to cut corners as the ornament will be in plain view. Some elements are partly done:

The part in the center will be the cover over the lock. Here is a view of the real thing:

For the moment, this small part will be a guide to do the ornament's horizontal and vertical bars. I will try to shape the head at a later date.

Roger, a question happened to pop in my head while reading your update tonight. While your are applying all your creative efforts working away making progress do you work with background music, talk radio or a television on? I personally mostly have a radio on even though I could not always tell you what was either played of talked about later, and only on the rare occasion would have the television on. Just a curious question that cropped up and thought I'd ask, I'm sure others might like to know too. Scott...

Trivial question! This time, not difficult to anser: during the week, a smal radio is playing in the kitchen until I have my breakfast (can be at 10.30 or 11.00 PM, but I'm up about at 8.00 AM). Then, nothing for the rest of the day, but my computer is usually running next to my workplace. That way I can have a look at the pictures I'm taking for a specific part or answer my mails.

During the week-end, the home radio is playing. I have also laudspeakers in the room I'm working; I'm listening a Swiss oldies radio or, if I'm in good mood, CDs. TV is for the evening when I'm not on my work place.

Trivial question! This time, not difficult to anser: during the week, a smal radio is playing in the kitchen until I have my breakfast (can be at 10.30 or 11.00 PM, but I'm up about at 8.00 AM). Then, nothing for the rest of the day, but my computer is usually running next to my workplace. That way I can have a look at the pictures I'm taking for a specific part or answer my mails.

During the week-end, the home radio is playing. I have also laudspeakers in the room I'm working; I'm listening a Swiss oldies radio or, if I'm in good mood, CDs. TV is for the evening when I'm not on my work place.

Roger, My brother Geoff (Model56S) informed me of the cars that you are building. Geoff gave me a book back in the early 90's by Gerald Wingrove "The Complete Car Modeler 2". I have since collected all three of his books. A master modeler, who in his day, set the bar very high for beautiful scratch builts. You acknowledge him in your threads. It is amazing that your work is parallel to his. I think that your work is spectacular.

I too have a Unimat lathe and milling machine. I got it from a model train shop in Campbell, CA over 10 years ago. I got most of the tooling with it along with the parts and tool list. I made a case for them from the brochure as none are available.

I noticed that your lathe had a belt that was nicked or splitting. If you have had an issue with your drive belts, there is a guy on the East Coast here in the states that makes a SUPERB replacement belt set. You only buy them once. He is a specialist in Unimat equipment. He restores Unimat lathes and has a lot of parts for them as they are out of production. He had a company formulate a new synthetic material for belt replacement and gives a LIFETIME warranty with them. They are very reasonably priced. His name is Tom Wright and his website is; tomstoolstore.com. If you are having any issues with your lathe or milling machine, his is a great source for parts or service.

In Vista, Ca (next door) there is a Craftsmanship Museum started by Joe Martin. He passed away this year but not before he built a museum for models from craftsmen like yourself. Amazing models and items all hand crafted by master modelers (like yourself). Louis Chenot's 1/6th scale Duesenberg with a RUNNING ENGINE! Beautiful. www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com You may have heard of these sites but if you haven't, then I will feel that I have contributed to you.

Another master craftsman is Kenneth Foran. He put out a book of his work two years ago "Model Building with Brass". IF you have not heard of him he is a craftsman extraordinaire building an early Ford Model T race car, a Bell Hellicopter and a WWI Monowing fighter plane. He details how he accomplishes these models with all his tips and procedures to help the craftsman (me). Another superb modeler.

I hope some day to see you publish a book on your cars and their construction.

I await your next posting to see how this beautiful Mark is progressing

Randy