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My Grandfather's '37 Oldsmobile


James

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Hello Everybody,

Welcome to my new thread!

I have signed out of the “Buy/Sell” forum. ( http://forums.aaca.org/f119/my-grandaddys-37-olds-277105.html )

And... If I’m starting a thread in the “Our Cars and Restoration Projects” forum, then I guess I am OFFICIALLY keeping this baby and starting down the road to fixing her up and getting her back out on the road again!

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The last post in the Buy/Sell thread was from Jim43, asking how the moving was going.

Jim, I had a long talk this afternoon with a good friend of mine, whom I used to see all the time because he worked right near me, but no longer does. He is a BIG old car buff, restorer, etc. So...

a) it was good to remake contact with him, and

B) he was just a world of information, about immediate concerns, plus “previews” of steps to come down the road, etc.

I’ve got about 3 weeks before I “must” have the ’37 out of the house, before the closing.

But I really, Really, REALLY Want (!) to have it out in about a week to ten days, before the estate sale, just to keep a hundred strangers from pawing all over my car and messing with it.

Right now, I’ve got a couple of viable options for how to move it (rollback tow truck service, buddy of my above friend with a serious car trailer of his own).

And I am parsing my way through potential places to keep it.

I am pretty confident that something real nice is going to work out.

Thanks for asking buddy.

So...

Thanks for all of your encouragement and ideas on the “old” thread in the Buy/Sell forum.

And I REALLY hope you will follow my project here so I can continue to benefit from your ideas, encouragement and suggestions (subscribe to it I hope! so, as time passes, you’ll know when something is going on again).

Tally-ho! [for you Dad]

James

Edited by James (see edit history)
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Guest raywilks

you did the right thing!! you may have some "down" days, just walk away and come back to it the next day. you need to do something every day if it is only to pat its little hood. keeps your hand in and your interest up. lots of us will be checking your post daily for updates.

wish i lived close enough to help you with start up, brakes, gas tank cleaning etc. you can be sure lots of people here will be there for you doing all they can from a distance. good luck!!!

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You made a good decision. Good luck with the new old project. As stated before, not all days will be good, but with the few that aren't, most will be positive and rewarding. It sounds like you are off to a good start by making old acquaintances new again. Thats always fun. We'll be right here over you shoulder. Nice looking vehicle you got there. Has anybody told you that we like pictures?

Skip

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James,

I read the other post in the for sale section this morning. What a great story. Your description of the car, its history, your changing life story and now your difficult decisions were clearly told from the heart.

The positive words of encouragement, not only about what to do with the car, but how to go forward through this time of personal challenge, were vivid examples of the strength and decency of the people here. My hat's off to all the members here.

I sense that this episode will open new doors for you as you bring this noble old lump of iron back to life. You will help the Olds, and it will help you.

I'm getting a little sappy; time to go shovel some more snow. Fear not, in my next message, I'll stick to mechanical recommendations.

Good Luck!

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It sounds like you are off to a good start by making old acquaintances new again. Thats always fun.

Definitely!

We'll be right here over you shoulder.

That's what I'm hoping.

Nice looking vehicle you got there. Has anybody told you that we like pictures?

Skip

Well, I "call myself" a photographer.

(Though... my first set of pictures were spur of the moment, dark basement, no flash, no lighting, no tripod - I had a couple of table lamps I kept moving around, and a clamp light I dangled from the garage door tracks, bracing myself against whatever I could find for stability at slow shutter speeds. Talk about improvising!)

So, I am definitely going to be "documenting" this for myself.

So I would think I would get a fair number of pictures of this project posted up here.

So let's say..."Film at 11:00"

James

Edited by James (see edit history)
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I sense that this episode will open new doors for you as you bring this noble old lump of iron back to life.

You will help the Olds, and it will help you.

I'm getting a little sappy; time to go shovel some more snow.

Fear not, in my next message, I'll stick to mechanical recommendations.

Good Luck!

:D :D :D :D :D

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James, An acclaimed designer, Al Leamy, who is credited with designing the front wheel drive L-29 Cord and other classics, left the Auburn Automobile Company and went to G M Art and Color, their design studio under Harley Earl, at about the time the '37 Olds styling features would have been under consideration. Among his drawings, retained all her life by his widow, was a frontal design sketch with some subtle similarities to the Olds. I recall that the L-29 Cord he designed had inboard front brakes, and wonder, if, just if, if he was on the Olds design team at A & C and put those 2 vertical trim strips on each side of the panel under the radiator grille, delineating just where those inboard brakes had been on the Cord. The horizontal panel under the grille humps outward, and is also suggestive of front wheel drive because that is where the transaxle would have gone. G M's new ideas sometimes first appeared on the Oldsmobile, hydramatic and a 2 speed predecessor to it, for example. So, taking a really long shot, could it be that the original intent of the '37 Olds front design was for a front wheel drive car?

For some of my experiences with the '37 Olds I had as a high schooler look at the last page of your other posting about your Grandfather's '37 Olds. Dave

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:) Congradulations James,

I watched on your original post on Buy Sell and the excellent advice from other members. I've been a Buick man for years, along with a couple of other make cars in the 20's, but have a special interest in your '37 Olds. My late father had a '37 Buick Special that looked a lot like your Olds, and I still have pictures and the owners manual from his car and wish I had the car today.

I know you'll be happy with the decision you made on keeping this great car and will get nothing but support and help when needed on these forums. You might start shopping for a good car cover and some manuals when you get the car moved and secured. It's a big advantage to have a shop manual (preferably Olds), but a Motors manual covering the late 30's- early 40's can also be a good aid, and, unless you have the original owners manual, try and pick one up. No hurry on either one , because as others have commented, take it one step at a time and you'll have a memorable experience and tons of fun.

Best of luck, and I know you'll keep us posted!

:) kaycee

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Re: the vertical trim strips evocative of front-drive brakes. Have look too at the '34 LaSalle where the strips are very pronounced. Also, the front-drive Miller racers.

Back to the Olds. When I was a teen-ager bringing home junkers to resurrect, my father invariably helped me on two areas of the car: brakes and steering. He no doubt figured that if I ever got it running, I should be able to steer and stop. He showed me how to do it right, correctly and thoroughly. Then good tires. Then change oil and oil & fuel filters, lube chassis. Then make it run right. new hoses, clean radiator. etc.

He taught me where to start, have a sequence and make a big job into a bunch of small steps. And to work clean and be organized. All good lessons I still use.

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Greetings All,

On Day 1 (or Day 2?) here’s some Kindergarten Questions for all you old heads.

Just little things I find myself needing to do or decide on right at the very beginning

1-

I’m thinking maybe to get some TIRES for the ’37 ASAP.

If nothing else, so that it won’t have to be d-r-u-g up onto the rollback hauler.

Won’t have to be d-r-u-g OFF the rollback hauler.

Wherever I take it to get the beginning work done, it could be r o l l e d to and fro.

A friend of mine hereabouts, told me about Coker Tire.

My Questions are sort of:

- are they THE place to get the nice big whitewalls this car came with?

- or are there other/better places?

- do I want to put my nice whitewalls on it NOW?

- or do I want to get some cheap/crap tires to keep on it until I finish all the work?

OR...

These tires were fine 30 years ago when it was last driven.

Just slowly leaked down over time.

Think if I take my air compressor down there they will air up enough for the above purposes?

Actually, I am going down to my father’s house tomorrow and I’m gonna see!

If so, I chalk that up as a win.

If not, then I will be referring to your comments to my questions above.

2-

What about insurance on this automobile?

I called yesterday to USAA, who I have all my other stuff with.

They said they didn’t handle antique cars (b/c of the difference between “actual cash value” of the car and the “something else value” (?) of the car.

They connected me with this other company that they said they “partnered with” for covering old cars - “Old Car Insurance Inc.” or something (don’t remember right now).

Any advice on how or who to go with re: insuring this car?

3-

I have pretty much come to understand the sequence of work on this car.

First is - get it running and roadworthy, which I am not the mechanic to personally do myself.

So, I’m starting to ask and talk to find the right person to work through the brakes, belts, hoses, fuel lines, radiator, engine, etc.

I know this forum is National and/or International, so my chances are numerically slim.

BUT...

If there is anyone in north Georgia who knows a great person to get at the mechanical work on this car, I would LOVE to hear!

That’s all for now.

Thanks,

James

P.S.

Dave Henderson - I enjoyed reading your “speculations”. That’ll all get saved or printed, stuck in the glove compartment or my desk or something. It’s just interesting.

kaycee - I hadn’t though about that, but I LOVE paperwork. I’ve been hoping to maybe find something about the ’37 while going through all my Father’s stuff. Owner’s manual, old tag receipts, whatever. So far, no though. Lots of old pictures of it, but no paperwork though. I’ll sure try to scare up a shop manual or owners manual for sure.

And thanks BillP and Larry. I appreciate both of your comments.

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1) Coker Tire and Universal Vintage Tire are the 2 places for vintage tires. Both are good and run by people who know their business. Its not likely you'll be able to find any "cheap/crap" tires in the size you need. For towing, the old tires might hold air long enough for transport.

2) For insurance on your car, you won't go wrong with Grundy (Grundy Worldwide). Their prices are competitive and I personally know people who have had to file claims with them. The claims were paid quickly and without any hassle. Mr. Grundy is a car guy himself with a nice car collection. If you haven't had antique car insurance before, you'll be pleasantly surprised at how cheap it is compared to regular car insurance.

3) Sorry, I'm in PA.

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When I found my 40, it had been abandoned for maybe 50 yrs and sunk in the sand up to the doors. I had to jack her up and take off the tires then find a set of rollers (tires) to get her on a trailer with. Once jacked up I placed 2x 6's and plywood under the tires, so once it put the tires back on she wouldn't sink back into the dirt (I had to dig a hole so I could remove the tires). Thats another story. I got back to the FIL's and looked at the dried and cracked tires and I thought , how about we put 25 lbs of air in them and see what we have in the morning. They held air just fine. I was amazed. My FIL said the real test would be once the cars weight is on them . They still held air and it's been almost month now and those dry rotted, sections missing, tires are still holding air. They don't make tubes like that any more. Got to love those older tubes.

Just put air in the tires and they'll be just fine.

Get her a new battery, clean the spark plugs and put some gas in a can and sprinkle some in the carb, turn her over and see what you get. You have lost nothing. You'll need a battery anyway. If it doesn't fire up, check for spark at the points (be sure they are gapped correctly). Be sure the choke is closed. Still nothing? Be sure you have spark at the plugs. If you do have spark,Check your compression with your thumb over the spark plug hole. Good pressure? If so you;'ll need to pull the carb and send it out for a rebuild. Buy a new fuel filter and oil filter along with some oil. Drain the fuel tank. Maybe there is a plug on the bottom of the fuel tank you can take out. If not pull the fuel line off it to drain it. Drain it and use it in your lawn mower. Drain the entire system. It's really easy to do. While the carb is being rebuilt, check the spark and be sure the points are gapped and are opening and closing along with some new, gapped properly, plugs. You might need a new set of points, but more than likely, you don't, at least not yet. Good gas, good spark and compression is a must. It wouldn't hurt to have a compression test done while waiting for the carb to come back. You can do a simple test with someone turning the motor over with the key, (once you've removed all the spark plugs) while you hold your thumb over the spark plug hole. Be sure to mark the spark plug wires with the cylinder each one belongs to. I use masking tape and a felt tipped pen. This looks like a lot but in reality it's not. Maybe someone else will point out what I missed or got out of sequence. Help is a click away.

I'd be willing to bet that with a decent mechanic you'd be able to drive that baby home Slowly and on questionable tires, but you'd be driving her home If it wasn't too too far. Tags and insurance? Nah. Just do it. I myself, am a gambling man. It's only illegal if you get caught. How long has it been since she was last driven?

Good luck, Skip

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Edited by Ctskip (see edit history)
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Guest Backyardmechanic

Hey James,

Very Happy that you will be keeping the olds.Contact the aaca office ask if there's a aaca reagion club near you ask for the pres. of the club.Contact him/she ask when next meeting is.

Go to meeting join both the national aaca and the reagion club.I'll bet there will be an old machinc that has very little to do that will be more then happy to help you out to get the olds running .

While your are at your Dads place work the brake paddle see if you can pump up any pressure.

As for the tires I'd just pump the tires up maybe say 25#. see if they stay up.But I agree with getting insurence on her Now. I just seen on TV where a brick storage in Greensburg Pa. colapse due to hevy snow on roof with many antiqure cars in storage there.

I was quoted $56.50 per year for a $8,000 value in hershery swap meet with JC Talorer for a 1937 Dodge Brothers This is full coverage even when in storage.

Hope this helps.

Keep us posted May we have more pictures of the car?

Vern

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.

I’m going to call Grundy tomorrow, 1940_Buick. Thanks.

Skip - I loved the pictrures of your car.

I’m going down tomorrow, Friday, and put air in the tires and see.

I’m bettin’ - yea.

Vern - I’ll call J.C. Taylor tomorrow also, thanks.

I’ll be looking into AACA local clubs and looking for a local Oldsmobile club as well, as soon as I can catch my breath. ;)

Best regards,

James

P.S. I have had some great phone conversations with a number of local people in the last 36 hrs. Nothing “done” yet, but I am very encouraged. Stay tuned . . .

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.

P.S.

I need a car cover for this car - STAT

Part of unfolding story.

Details later.

Film at 11:00

But for now can anybody tell me:

- what am I looking for?

- a generic one?

- or a form fitted for this particular car?

- find anything suitable locally?

- need to order and overnight it?

- what material? breathability?

- etc.

MUCH obliged to anyone who can steer me to the best thing that I can come up with the fastest.

James

.

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:) Hi James,

You're making a wise choice in getting insurance right now. On the car cover: You can pick up a temporary "cheapy"( just to keep the dust off)

at any big "super store" that sells tarps and other auto supplies. 'Should'nt cost more than $30-$40. ( Just measure the lenght ,height, and width of the car, and go from there. You can always pick up a good higher priced one later. It'll depend on where you will be storing the car. If you wo'nt be doing any of the work on the car yourself, the manuals are'nt a priority now, but if you type in 1937 Oldsmobile in eBay , you'll probably be able to find a few things like a owners manual and factory brochures as time goes on. Likewise with a Motors manual covering your year (late '30s- mid '40s) (usually about $15- $40. I'd temporarily stay with the tires you have on the car if they hold air, and everything will also depend on how much driving you'll be doing. The priority after you get the car home will be getting it running as above posts suggest.

I do'nt believe a carb rebuild is a priority now, but is a good idea in the future.

The main things as were mentioned in earlier posts, will be changing all fluids (especially oil & filter, gas,coolant, and brake fluid), greasing the chassis, and checking points and plugs, hoses, and fan belt. Charge the battery up too.If you're able to contact a AACA group or an older mechanic in your area you should be able to get some "hands on" help.

Another thing to check is to make sure that the engine is free and not stuck from sitting (which is doubtful from it's past storage) before you even try to crank it over, and remove all spark plugs and squirt a little oil or Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone into the cylinders. Good luck!

:) kaycee

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James:

I agree with those who stress good brakes. One thing I would specifically recommend is replacing the actual brake lines. Dot3 brake fluid absorbs water and will rust them out from the inside. With a single pot master cylinder, all you need is one line to pop and its a disaster. I have never wrecked a vehicle due to a failed brake line, but have have had a couple of near misses.

Don't know if there are sets pre formed for your car or not, but I have bought from both Classic and Inline Tube with very good results. Excellent stainless steel lines that fit like the originals. The cost was not excessive. Both advertise in Hemmings, or google them.

If there are no patterns, you can remove your existing lines, send them in and they will make new to match. When I did my 93 F150, Inline tube said they were glad to be able to add a pattern to their offerings.

Zimm

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How long has the 37 been sitting without being run? If it's been over five years, then I would suggest you pull the spark plugs and pour 1/2 oz of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder through the spark plug hole and let it sit for several days. Then turn it over by hand using the fan blade, several revolutions, maybe even back and forth a few times before engaging the starter. You don't want to break any rings that might be stuck. Better to err on the side of caution. Just a thought, only because I don't know how long she's been setting.

Skip

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James, a word of encouragement about the mechanical stuff... while its very helpful to have someone who is a decent mechanic take care of the repairs, a lot of the stuff that has been mentioned can be done by you!

These cars are not complicated, and the guys on the forum are glad to advise. If you have a question, just post a few pictures and you'll get some advice.

If you go to Sears and get yourself a decent Craftsman socket set, pliers, screwdriver, etc (you know, the basics), you'll be able to do quite a bit yourself. The tools will pay for themselves in saved labor expenses. You'll also learn about your car and can be proud of your accomplishments. Odds are, the brakes and fuel system will be the only challenges you might need help with.

Seriously... give it a shot.

Just take your time, take pictures, and take care.

You just might surprise yourself :)

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How long has the 37 been sitting without being run? If it's been over five years, then I would suggest you pull the spark plugs and pour 1/2 oz of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder through the spark plug hole and let it sit for several days. Then turn it over by hand using the fan blade, several revolutions, maybe even back and forth a few times before engaging the starter. You don't want to break any rings that might be stuck. Better to err on the side of caution. Just a thought, only because I don't know how long she's been setting.

Skip

Skip,

My grandmother (on my mother's side) had a 1940 Dodge. I was in college when she got to the point when she could no longer drive. She asked me if I wanted it and I said YES!

But it had already been sitting for quite a while by that point and wouldn't start. So I called this old guy in our church that we had known forEVER. He had had an auto shop on Techwood Drive in Atlanta when my FATHER was at Tech in the '30s. So you know he had to be old by the time I was in college.

He was retired, all stove up with arthritis but still working on cars for family and friends. He said, "Yeah, I"ll come up and see if we can't get 'er going."

He put a new battery in it but no dice. Tried to turn it by hand, or rocking it with it in gear or I don't remember just what he did, but the cylinders were frozen.

So he tied a rope to the front bumper of the 40 Dodge, tied the other end to the back of his truck, and said...

"Put 'er in first, hold the clutch in, I'll get us going good, and when I throw my arm out the window and wave, you pop the clutch. That'll break 'er free."

It just sent chills down my spine, the thought of what we were about to do.

but I was 20 and he was 70 and I didn't have the (whatever) to speak up.

So we did it.

And it "broke 'er loose" and no harm was done.

But, yeah, even as a wet behind the ears kid, I knew when something didn't seem right.

So... yessir, we'll be moving with good care on this '37.

Like Hippocrates taught, "Primum non nocere" - First... do no harm.

Yep.

James

Edited by James (see edit history)
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How long has the 37 been sitting without being run? If it's been over five years, then I would suggest you pull the spark plugs and pour 1/2 oz of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder through the spark plug hole and let it sit for several days. Then turn it over by hand using the fan blade, several revolutions, maybe even back and forth a few times before engaging the starter. You don't want to break any rings that might be stuck. Better to err on the side of caution. Just a thought, only because I don't know how long she's been setting.

Skip

Skip,

I just noticed this other thing you said.

Brought back a memory.

I remember my Daddy telling me...

...when he realized that time was going by and it seemed that the '37 wasn't going to be driven anymore, he...

- ran it out of gas

- and then took the spark plugs out, poured some oil down on top of each pistol, put the spark plugs back in

Don't know what those two things did or didn't do, but that's what he did.

James

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:) Hi James...

I'd temporarily stay with the tires you have on the car if they hold air, and everything will also depend on how much driving you'll be doing... Charge the battery up too.

:) kaycee

Kaycee,

I went down to my father's house this afternoon, took a little portable air compressor with me.

THE TIRES PUMPED RIGHT UP!

Been sitting there for ??? 35 years maybe!

I'm going back down tomorrow and I'll see about overnight, but after a couple of hours they were still standing tall and looking good when I left tonight.

But Kaycee - "charge up the battery" ? ? ?

Certainly this ain't gonna happen, is it?

All for tonight.

Real tired.

Big day tomorrow. ;)

James

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:) Hi James,

After seven years the battery is probably 'gone', but it won't hurt to take the caps off, check the water level, add some DISTILLED water if needed, and try charging it. Otherwise , you'll need a new battery. Remember you have a SIX VOLT. Being that your dad wisely put some oil in the cylinders before storage, I would put a smaller amount of Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and crank it over with the plugs out after the car has set a day or two, and as previous posts advised, pick up a decent set of sockets and wrenches, and do'nt be afraid of working on your car yourself with the aid of a Motors or Chiltons manual and help from folks on this site. Have a good weekend!

:) kaycee

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I had a older man for a neighbor and his garage was back to back with mine. He used to come out and start his vehicle and race the motor as soon as it started. I could just hear and visualize those little lifters clattering away finally filling with oil. After about a minute at 2000 rpms the motor would fill up with oil and quiet down. Drove me nuts, but who am I to tell this 80 yr old man how to drive his car. What really pushed me over the edge. was when he would come home, he'd put the vehicle in the garage and race the motor somewhere around 2500rpms for 30 seconds +or -, and then switch the key off while the motor was racing. All I could see was the cylinder walls all dry with gasoline running down the cylinder walls. So that when he started the next time the cylinder walls would be dry. ouch! It hurt my ears. I build Harleys and I ride them hard and fast. When I get ready to shut down, I leave her idle as low as she could so there would be next to no fuel to wash the cylinders down but lots of oil on the cylinder walls. It makes for a longer lasting motor.

Marvel Mystery oil (MM) keeps oil around the rings and coats the cylinder walls so next time the motor starts, lubrication will already be there. It takes a few RPMs to get oil where it needs to be, so our actions help the motor last longer. I'd rather have my piston rings press against oiled (wet) cylinder walls as opposed to (dry) gasoline washed cylinder walls.

The oil burns off once it's started

Your Dad ran it out of gasoline because gasoline left sitting, will seperate and form shellac, which becomes hard and clogs the tiny holes in the carb. Resulting in a carb that fuel won't flow through, Hence, no start. Now-a-days, some people put additives in any fuel systems that might be left sitting for a length of time. Some, still drain or run it till it runs out of fuel. Just one of the "old " tricks of the trade. It beats draining the system and rebuilding the carb.

Good luck,

Skip

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Guest Backyardmechanic

hi James

When you go back to the car Remove the gas tank cap if it smales like varnish then you have dead gas in there if no smile then you will be saft to put gas in it about 5 gal. will do.

change the oil( I would suggest you use 30 w Reg.

connect a know good 6 volt battery remove the spark plugs pore a little oil in each cylinder turn over the engine for a few seconds pore more oil in spark plug hole now run tyhe stater until you can see the oil gage moveing

Install plugs try to start it now

Good luck

Vern

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Skip,

I just noticed this other thing you said.

Brought back a memory.

I remember my Daddy telling me...

...when he realized that time was going by and it seemed that the '37 wasn't going to be driven anymore, he...

- ran it out of gas

- and then took the spark plugs out, poured some oil down on top of each pistol, put the spark plugs back in

Don't know what those two things did or didn't do, but that's what he did.

James

Running the car out of gas keeps the gas from turning into varnish inside the fuel system. It doesn't always do the trick but it can go a long ways to making the restart process much easier.

Putting oil in the top of the cylinders can help keep it from freezing later. Given the cozy storage space in the basement, I'd be willing to bet that it isn't frozen. I noticed some mouth balls in the back seat... did Dad put those in there as well?

If you don't smell varnish inside the gas tank, then the odds are very high that a charged battery and couple gallons of gas will have it running again.

Stopping might be an issue... I trust you'll check the brakes!

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I had the great pleasure of driving out to meet Jim and see the car. It is such a wonderful car. The color and shape along with details you just don't see anymore. I took a bunch of pictures but it appears that I had the camera setup wrong and everything turned out dark. I'll post a couple that turned out OK.

Two shots from the interior. I love the texture on the door panels. Note the detail on the handles.

Shot of the back seat shows the seat covers and again, great texture on the panels.

Until you sit in the car you don't realize how much it is curved. You can see this in the curve of the stitched rows on the far panel.

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One of the decisions to be made with the car is restore or not. Jim and I discussed this a lot and we came up with several million questions. I really couldn't help him much because I don't understand where the line is drawn between HPOF and restoring back to original. I read through the 2009 Judges Guidelines but didn't see a good explanation. I thought I'd throw out a few questions and maybe a few members could comment.

1) If the tires don't hold air, can they be changed? While the tires are old, they are not the original tires. Is this a problem?

2) The rubber seals and gaskets are way past their prime. The windshield leaks and a couple of windows are cracked. Can these be replaced?

3) There are a couple of rust spots (see attached) that look like if they are left untreated there will be trouble ahead. Two part question here... a) Can they be treated? B) If so, how?

As many people have said before, it is your car, do what you want. It seemed to me that Jim wants to drive the car. To safely do that there is some work to be done. In addition, to be able to drive the car with some level of comfort, the interior is going to need a lot of work. My guess is that getting the car to the point where Jim is happy driving it will kick it out of the HPOF class.

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Guest mercman86

James:

Thats a beautiful Olds! I love the '37s and the fact that its been in your family! If it were mine I would just get it running and make it safe and reliable and drive it the way it is. Like everyones said before good brakes are #1 on an antique.

Cant wait to see your progress and good luck!

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Luvto: All those things you mentioned can be changed with out effecting the HPOF designation. In fact, I would change out those tire if James is going to drive it, which I assume he is. Correct tires are available from Coker or Universal, and are not that expensive.

The rust is coming through the holes in the body where the fasteners for the strips are. You have to be very care in removing those strips or you will bend/damage them. Usually there is a spring clip to hold them on. You do have to remove the strips to treat the area. Treating usually involves cleaning, rust removal, coating, priming, and paint. It does not look like there has been any rust through yet, but it is getting close.

The interior is going to need a good cleaning, and there may be great seats under the covers. A lot of the stain will come out with a good cleaning, and there are products that will remove some of the stains.

Wish James good luck, he will have a great journey. And folks just love to see original cars. My 1928 Buick is still mostly original (only fenders and hood have been repainted) and people flock to it when we put it on display.

post-48480-143138176124_thumb.jpg

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STARTING, ROLLING, STOPPING and then looks

I'd concentrate on the list, but I'm a tad anal. I understand the interior needs some attention? I'd go after the rust issues under the trim, ASAP. Once I got her running and rolling and stopping, it would seem to me to go after the cause of the rust issues. Bare metal and water. Remove the interior side panels carefully, then remove the trim strips carefully, some have clips and some are nuts and bolts and sand inside around the holes, prime and paint insulate. All this will help, but you must look for the reason for the rust. It seems to me that the leaking window gaskets are more than likely the culprit. New rubber gaskets and some new glass( some windows are broken , yes?) is in order here. Stop the leaks, repair the rust and replace the broken windows, replace the trim strips then the interior panels. Then onto the next project. Having fun yet? I would also look under the rug to see what condition the floor is in while I'm sanding and priming inside the doors.

Skip

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Jeff and Skip and just Everybody,

My father passed away at 2:06 AM Monday, about an hour ago.

We were at the hospice center all day.

My sister had driven down from North Carolina.

She’s a R.N., M.S. nurse, said she wanted to stay the night with my father, and sent me and my wife home to sleep.

We live an hour and a half up the road and had not been home long when my sister called. She was holding his hand when he died.

She wanted to see to a few things there and said she would call me back directly.

So I just came up to my office looking for something to do here in the middle of the night while waiting for her to call back.

Checked in at the forum here, saw all your recent posts and just felt like telling y’all what’s going on, because I feel like I owe you all so much. I am going to have the old Oldsmobile to remember my Dad by, and I might not have, had y’all not been so vocal that I shouldn’t sell it.

And just for the record...

Me and my great friend Mike (about whom you will hear more later) got the old Oldsmobile moved yesterday, Saturday.

Within about 30 hours my Dad was gone.

Maybe just a coincidence.

But you’re going to have a hard time convincing me that he did not know somehow, and, with a lighter heart, decide that he could let go and move on.

He always wanted to “fix up the old Oldsmobile” but never did.

Always wished that I would, but I never had.

It’s going to be such an honor to fix it up for him now.

And it’s not too late.

He’ll be watching.

So, guys, I’ve got a bunch of pictures and a nice little story about us getting the car moved, and the immediate plans. But you’re gonna have to wait.

It’ll be a couple of weeks probably, before I’ll be in picture editing and storytelling mode.

But I hope you all are either subscribed or will keep your eye out for the thread.

Because in exchange for some pictures and a nice story, I am also going to have a lot of questions as this project gets started for real!

Thanks for everything.

See you in a bit.

James

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Edited by James (see edit history)
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