1931 Clutch Repair

hi guys

The clutch on the 90 is slipping badly, does anyone have experience of rebuilding one? Other than the Throwout Bearing I do not see parts available "off the shelf" so assume the plates can be relined(how do we know what thickness the new linings should be?) and new springs sourced-can spring manufacturers assess the strength/size required from a weakened 78 year old sample? I am hoping not to find the clutch covered in oil!, but if it is what is involved in renewing the rear main bearing seals? All suggestions greatfully received.

Jules

Jules,

I am sure you can take the components to local suppliers to get what you need.

Friction material with asbestos will not be available, but you can get good substitutes and the supplier will know the thickness. I currently have the clutch out of my 31 model 57 and can send a measurement of a working clutch if you like. The spring will probably be OK as is...unless the car has several hundred thousand miles of city driving on it....

Take the bearings to a local supplier for off the shelf equivalents too...

Thanks Mark

I was assuming that the Engine/Transmission would have to come out, but wonder if it's easier to pull the gearbox off the engine (albeit having to move the rear axle/torque tube to do so?

regards

Jules

It is easier to move the rear end back and then remove the trans. than removing the engine. Try H.R. Clutches in PA for replacement parts.

Good Luck

JB

Jules,

Is that a single clutch plate or multi clutch plate ( like the 1930 models ) on the large series cars of 1931?

hi Stuart

It is the multi-plate clutch

cheers

Jules

hi Stuart

It is the multi-plate clutch

cheers

Jules

Okay, in the past we have taken the inspection plate from the top of the bell housing ( you have to lift the floorboards to get to it ) and have flushed the multi clutch plates on 1929/1930 models with degreaser or kerosene. Often the clutch faces aren't worn and don't need repairs, the problem is a build up of oil/grease/grime causing them to slip.

Maybe worth a try before pulling the back end to remove the gearbox.

thanks for the tip Stuart-funnily enough I had just been reading how they used to do that in "Dykes Automobile Repair" (jolly good reference source for these old motors) I did not know there was an inspection cover-thanks

I suspect though that it is very worn because the clutch only "bites" when the pedal is right at the top of it's travel

regards

jules

Jules,

I am sure you can take the components to local suppliers to get what you need.

Friction material with asbestos will not be available, but you can get good substitutes and the supplier will know the thickness. I currently have the clutch out of my 31 model 57 and can send a measurement of a working clutch if you like. The spring will probably be OK as is...unless the car has several hundred thousand miles of city driving on it....

Take the bearings to a local supplier for off the shelf equivalents too...

HI MARK & JULES, I HAVE A '31, MDL #57, AND WILL BE IN THE PROCESS OF GETTING IT ON THE ROAD THIS SUMMER AFTER IT HAS HAD A 30YR. DOWN TIME, AND I AM GOING TO DO THE BRAKES & CLUTCH FIRST, SO I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY POINTERS YOU MAY HAVE IN REGARD TO THIS AND/OR ALL RESTORATION WORK. THE THICKNESS WOULD BE HELPFUL.

THANK YOU

JOHNK

JohnK,

Just take the original parts to a local supplier & they should be able to match them....

Friction material with asbestos will not be available, but you can get good substitutes and the supplier will know the thickness.

While I think it is much safer to use the modern, non-asbestos containing material to renew the clutch, particularly if one is doing the work himself instead of paying someone else to do it, if one really wanted to use asbestos clutch material it is still being made and could be found without too much trouble (just like R-12 refrigerant). Whether that would be legal in the UK is another matter.