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1952 Chev Pick up


Guest scottemma1

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Just for yuks, pull the distributor, turn it 180 degrees (half a revolution) drop it back in and see if it will start. I think, as do most here, that you have a timing issue. You need to get a manual for your truck. It seems that you are a bit new at this sort of thing and you should have a good reference book. The old six cylinder Chev is as simple and bullet proof an engine as you'll ever find. As I said earlier, if you have spark, fuel and decent compression, it WILL start, if all your ducks are in a row.

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Just for yuks, pull the distributor, turn it 180 degrees (half a revolution) drop it back in and see if it will start. I think, as do most here, that you have a timing issue. You need to get a manual for your truck. It seems that you are a bit new at this sort of thing and you should have a good reference book. The old six cylinder Chev is as simple and bullet proof an engine as you'll ever find. As I said earlier, if you have spark, fuel and decent compression, it WILL start, if all your ducks are in a row.
I am not trying to be picky, but more specific than anything...when you turn something 180 degrees, make certain that it is the distributor SHAFT & ROTOR and not the whole distributor unit. You know...just making sure.
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Guest weaving

I have a 1952 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup, here is a photo of the 216 ci engine,I even have 54 Chevy 1/2 ton it`s a blue engine 235 ci..

janne sweden :)

14.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest DeSoto Frank

If the engine has a large, cone-shaped water-pump pulley, the engine is '55 or later.

Would suggest using a few shots of starting fluid... excellent source of "fuel" ; if it coughs or even runs then dies, you know the compression / spark / timing are close...

Stick with it !

Most unrestored '47 -'54 Chevy trucks I've encountered have had their engine swapped at least once.

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Guest scottemma1

Any idea where the #1 plug wire should be on the distributor? I can find when #1 cylinder is firing and then check to see if the rotor is on #1. I just want to make sure the disributor is not installed improperly.

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It doesn't matter. Do as I said.

Put the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the correct terminal. That is #1. You are overthinking this entire process. When the piston is at the top of the stroke on compression, you need a spark. The engine doesn't care which terminal it comes from, only that it gets a spark at the proper time and that the remaining cylinders get their sparks at the correct time. PLEASE BUY A MANUAL FOR YOUR TRUCK. I guarantee you that if the truck is as you say, I could come over and start it in 5 minutes. Stop trying to build a space shuttle. It's a stove bolt Chev. It will run.

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It doesn't matter. Do as I said.

Put the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Take off the distributor cap. The rotor will be pointing at the correct terminal. That is #1. You are overthinking this entire process. When the piston is at the top of the stroke on compression, you need a spark. The engine doesn't care which terminal it comes from, only that it gets a spark at the proper time and that the remaining cylinders get their sparks at the correct time. PLEASE BUY A MANUAL FOR YOUR TRUCK. I guarantee you that if the truck is as you say, I could come over and start it in 5 minutes. Stop trying to build a space shuttle. It's a stove bolt Chev. It will run.

I totally agree on that one.

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Guest scottemma1

I wish you lived in Wisconsin. I would welcome you over. I do have a manual and yes I might be making more out of it than I should. I just don't understand how I can put #1 at TDC, I don't know what that means. I did put my finger over the #1 hole and when I felt compression I put a screwdriver in the spark plug hole and something was up because it didn't go in very far at all. I then checked where the rotor was in the distributor and it is on #1. Still won't start. The manual that I bought didn't address this issue.

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Guest scottemma1

What seems easy to people that have worked on engines is not easy for us that have not. I am learning though and I do appreciate the help that everyone has given.

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TDC is top dead center. If you felt compression and the piston is at the top of the stroke, then you are there or at least close. If the rotor is pointing at the terminal that you have designated as # 1 and all of the other wires are in the proper firing order and it won't start, then you have another issue. If you remove the cap, you should be able to open the points with a screwdriver stuck between them and the cam. Hold the end of the high tension coil wire close to the block and open the points with the screwdriver. You should get a nice fat spark. If you do, cool. Put the cap back on and do the same thing with a plug wire while cranking the engine. If you get the same nice, fat spark, you're good. You have no ignition problems and your problems are fuel related. Have you tried pouring a bit of gas down the carb. Not too much, a few ounces is plenty.

Have you run a compression test? You may think you have enough, but without a proper test, you're just guessing. If you put your thumb over each plug hole and have someone crank the engine, it should pop your thumb off of the hole on each cylinder. That's a pretty good down and dirty compression test.

I wish I was in Wisconsin and I would love to come by and kick tires and get that thing back on the road where it belongs. You might want to sign up on the HAMB and ask those guys. There are thousands of them all over the country and I'll bet one lives within an hour of you. Just be sure to introduce yourself and play nice for a little while. Some of those HAMBers can be a little testy THE H.A.M.B. - Powered by vBulletin

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