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I've just found this out !


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My Irene has blown a seal. shocked.gif

What started out as a few drips from the front of the Dynaflow has turned into a river of red from the inspection cover.

So it is a certain trans removal.

I intend to remove the rear axle and pull the Dynaflow from the engine.

A couple of questions -----

Anybody have any tips with experience on making the task easier

other than taking the engine out as well.

I will need a seal kit , any paper gaskets required for the front area when replacing seals ?

Cheers.

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You don`t need to remove the rear axle from your car,just put someting under the frame at rear,remove the rear wheels,let the rear axle falling done on the floor,losen the emergency brake cable beetwen the Dynaflow and rear axle,remove one side on the boths shocks,put someting on both side of your front wheel.(Put something under the engine too,when you remove the Dynaflow you need to do that).Then you can remove the 4 bolts how hold the tube on the Dynaflow,then you can drow the rear axle about 4-6" backwards with a waistband, but no more than you need just to loosen the tube.

It seems to be a lot to do but it`s quite easy if you have done it once.That`s the way I did it on my 1956 Buick.

Leif in Sweden.

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Bill, I will take the rear out completely. It does not take long. Besides I am going to replace the rear springs. I put another set in but they are too low.

I intend to put a trolley jack under the trans and remove the cross member and take out all the mounting bolts and slide the trans out using the jack.

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Ken should know how to remove the rear by now grin.gif

Get a substantial tranmission jack for sure! Those dynaflows are heavy and can mash or mutilate you... trannyjack.jpg

...especially with the car on stands the tranny is 3 feet off the floor.

Willie

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  • 2 weeks later...

@!*%#@!!! eek.gif

I've finally got the thing out, well on the ground anyway.

I under estimated the size of the thing. I thought I had the car up high enough for it to clear but not so. I'm a little nervous about jacking a 2 ton Roadmaster up any higher even though I have jack stands AND wooden blocks for double security.

There was a lot of swearing, cursing, bitching and soul searching eg. do I really love old cars this much ??

At least I didn't throw any spanners ( wrenches for you Northern Hemisphere folk )

One thing that annoyed me was that the trans has not been installed with the converter drain plugs to line up with the holes in the flywheel. The manual says a major front oil leak is caused by loose drain plugs. They couldn't be checked until the trans was out. It didn't matter anyway as that's not the cause. I hope it's just the seal behind the converter that let go.

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If your engine was vibration free before trans removal, then make sure you realign the flexplate and torque converter the way you found it. The factory manual for the 56 says the engine was balanced at the factory with the torque converter attached. I image your car is the same way.

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Unfortunately not John. At some point there has been a trans swap. When they did it the holes in the flex plate were not lined up with the drain plugs in the converter. Hence I had to drain it once it was on the ground. No big deal but would have been a real pain if the drain plugs were leaking and I had to take the trans out just to tighten them up.

I have pulled the torque converter apart and unbolted the bellhousing. All the seals were rock hard and it's no wonder there has been a lake of oil under the car of late. Ordered the seals from a helpful bloke called Dave from Antique Automatic Transmission parts in MA.

Just another fix to keep these naughty old girls on the road. wink.gif

Ouch !! That hurt Irene. shocked.gif

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