spark plug wires

I have a 312 in my truck that is still running on points. I will eventually swap that distributor out for electronic ig., but not today. However, I do need plug wires. Can I buy wires

"designed" to use with electronic ignition and use them on the old ditributor. Is there a difference. I'm trying to plan ahead to not have to buy a new set when I swap distributors.

ANother thing, after running the truck for a short time, there is a little smoke (or steam) coming out of the oil fill tube.

The motor has barely had time to warm up. any ideas on what this is from? It does not smell like burnt oil.

64F250, I think you have two possibilities. If you intend to use a later Ford factory electronic ignition distributor the plug wires are different from your original distributor.

OR you could buy an electronic ignition unit from pertronix.com that would install in your original distributor. Thus you can buy new original style wires now and continue using them when you install the electronics later. I bought one of these (and a new coil from them) for my 1963 Pontiac and they have been perfectly dependable since.

I wandered about that, but didn't think it was a possibility. I will check that out. I'm not real interested in dealing with point anymore.

THanks for the advice.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 64F250HIBOY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wandered about that, but didn't think it was a possibility. I will check that out. I'm not real interested in dealing with point anymore.

THanks for the advice. </div></div>

Definitely get the Pertronix. You will not be disappointed.

Sounds like you are getting some oil blow-by. You probably have a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation. Check to make sure that to tube did not get damaged or that anything is clogged up.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ANother thing, after running the truck for a short time, there is a little smoke (or steam) coming out of the oil fill tube.

The motor has barely had time to warm up. any ideas on what this is from? It does not smell like burnt oil.

</div></div>

This is probably condensation from inside the motor being cooked out by the building of engine heat. If it were blow-by you'd almost certainly detect <span style="font-style: italic">some</span> kind of oil/fuel odor.

If it continues for more than 15-20 minutes, or if it occurs when you start an already warm engine, you might have a bigger problem. It could be a head gasket, or some other flaw, allowing coolant to seep in to the crankcase.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Definitely get the Pertronix. You will not be disappointed.</div></div>

Am I the last guy left who finds the tuning of a points-based ignition system part of the <span style="text-decoration: underline">fun</span> of owning an antique car, and part and parcel to a car <span style="font-style: italic">being</span> an antique?

I agree with Dave, fine tuning of ignition and carburetion are some of the arts we can still enjoy and pass on to future generations of enthusiasts.

Our cars ran just fine on points and condensors, carburetors, vacuum fuel tanks, and 6 Volt electrical systems, crank starts, and magnetos when they were designed and sold. Keeping them in excellent condition means not having to modify them to 12 volt, electronics, etc. -- your choice, of course, but keeping it real really means something to most of us, at least to me!

Yes, it is fun to get it right the right way.

i'm sorry but the way you have described it , to me if you compression readings are ok , its sounds like the oil rings are worn or broken

Thanks for the information.

I have not had to deal with points since I owned my first car,

a 1972 Pinto. I'm 44 now so that was a long time ago. I guess it really wasn't a big deal, but thought electronic would be a good upgrade.

As for the vapor coming out of the filler tube, I'd have to say that it unfortunately has a little bit of a sweet smell.

Would the dipstick show any evidence of coolant in the pan? It just looks like oil.

I am 41 and have had plenty of experience with points, but I felt old when the subject came up recently. A friend with old cars mentioned working with points and I said sure, no problem. He correctly pointed out that new cars haven't used them for over 30 years and a current parts counter clerk may have never seen any. Ouch.

I am with you though Dave, my 1957 still has them and on a 1957-74 GM car they could not be much easier to deal with as long as you still have a dwell meter.

The sweet smell is the smoking gun. You've almost certainly got a small coolant leak going there somewhere.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Would the dipstick show any evidence of coolant in the pan? It just looks like oil. </div></div>

Possibly not if the leak is so small that engine heat is boiling all of the evidence off. As it worsens you might note that the level in the crankcase is higher than it should be, or possibly a grey/foamy appearance in extreme cases.

Water is heavier than oil, and you'd more likely see the coolant when you drain the crankcase. You will certainly smell it first, however.

You should check for leaks with either pressure or dye (or both). See How to Find & Fix Coolant Leaks. As a quickie test you could add <span style="font-style: italic">Bars Leaks</span> or some other leak filler product and see if the symptoms subside, but if you do you'll need to somehow remove it all to find the leak and permenantly fix it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave@Moon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Definitely get the Pertronix. You will not be disappointed.</div></div>

Am I the last guy left who finds the tuning of a points-based ignition system part of the <span style="text-decoration: underline">fun</span> of owning an antique car, and part and parcel to a car <span style="font-style: italic">being</span> an antique? </div></div>

I would rather have fun DRIVING my antique than "tuning a points-based ignition system." I haven't had to touch my distributor for the last 5 years. Timing is exactly where I set it when I installed the Pertronix.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I haven't had to touch my distributor for the last 5 years.</div></div>

I like "touching my distributor". A lot of people do. It's not a criticism (although I'm sure it sounds like one), but it is frankly fun to try and make your car run better now and then (even if "better" isn't <span style="font-style: italic">perfect</span>). It also helps keep oneself "in tune" with the car. It adds a dimension to "DRIVING" an old car by any assessment, one that some enjoy.

It's not that a more reliable/consistent antique car is an inferior drive, it's just less authentic.

Points are stinky. Keep it FORD, and install a Duraspark. They are available everywhere and they are CHEAP!

Oh by the way, Duraspark retards your starting timing automatically for MUCH easier starts.

Want the full 'skinny'? Here's what the Y-Block guys have to say:

Follow this link for a better distributor solution - Duraspark by Ford

Hope you get your smoke straightened out, and I hope this helps. - Dave Dare

After reading all of the replies, I've decided to keep the points. FOr awhile anyways. The truck runs well so what the heck, wait 'til it's broke.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I would rather have fun DRIVING my antique than "tuning a points-based ignition system." I haven't had to touch my distributor for the last 5 years. Timing is exactly where I set it when I installed the Pertronix. </div></div>

In all honesty, my 56 is still running on points I installed in 2003, and the GS is running on a set I put in in 2004. And I have not had to adjust them since they were installed. If you find you have to constantly set your points I respectfully suggest there's something else wrong with the distributor.