Removing Plug Wires

GM has had electronic ignitions since the early 60's (Delcotronic came out in '62 AFAIR) but when the first HEIs were developed ('71-72 Pontiac "Unitized"), GM discovered that they were getting arcing around the boot so when the real HEI was intro'd they incorprated a lot of lessons learned such as the large diameter to preven rotor arcing. One was the long plug boot.

At the time, a distinctive feature of the AC-Delco plug was the ribbed surface that helped retain conventional boots. With the HEI boot and a few years of use they tended to lock. One of the nice things about the RapidFire is the lack of ribbing that makes the boot easier to remove.

Now for years I have had good luck with rotating the boot one way and then the other, sometimes with chanellocks until it breaks free. Sometimes it takes several minutes but has worked for me.

The back plugs on any transverse installation are challenging reguardless. I find the Reatta easier than many because you can see the rear plugs. I have some padded plywood I use to lie on top of the Fiero engine when working on the back but have not needed that for Reattae.

It is also one reason I like AC-Delco O2 sensors because they are short. With a Bosch, it sticks up far enough that it must be removed when doing the back plugs (of course with platinum plugs by the time you need new ones, the O2 sensor could probably stand replacement also).

Now in extremis, if you are replacing the plugs, I remember once snapping the plug off at the base (just takes a wrong push, have snapped plugs when installing with several extensions before - is just as easy as to snap the top off the oil pressure sender but that is another story) and then removing the plug stem from the boot after injecting solvents into the boot, something that cannot be done with the plug in the car. The base can then be removed with a socket. Is just something to think about.

ps PB Blaster really works and can be found at Big Lots - the small can is easier to get into tight spots.

Thanks Padgett ,

Nic

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Now in extremis, if you are replacing the plugs, I remember once snapping the plug off at the base (just takes a wrong push, have snapped plugs when installing with several extensions before - is just as easy as to snap the top off the oil pressure sender but that is another story) and then removing the plug stem from the boot after injecting solvents into the boot, something that cannot be done with the plug in the car. The base can then be removed with a socket. Is just something to think about.

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You just don't know how good it makes me feel to find out I'm not the only one who has snapped the plug in order to remove the boot. I thought that if I shared that here then I would get chastised for doing shoddy work.

I was out in the shop earlier today trying to see what Harbor Freight toys that I already have that are currently on sale (some great coupon sales going on)so I wouldn't duplicate , and saw a tool that I bought at NAPA probably 20 years ago. It is a spark plug wire/boot removal tool....It is designed like a pliers with the working end/tip offset at an angle with vinyl coating that is supposed to grip the boot while twisting to assist in the removal....didn't ever really seem to work for me.....might be worth some research to see if there is a better superceded version however....

I have one of those, never really worked for me either, was prone to slip.

I have never had this problem, I would say on average, spark plugs come out about every 40 K miles and all I do is twist the boot to break the seal and then tug them off.

There must be some high temp product out there that would help to alleviate this problem?

I was helping out a woman who claimed her car needed a tuneup. It was a Buick with the 3800 and i was trying to remove the wires on the back side. I too couldn't get the plug off, so out of desperation I started the car up, let it get good and hot and took the wires off then. it was hard on the fingers as the wires and block was hot, but I had to get done. my rationel for this idea was that unlike items expand/contract at different rates.

Plug gets hot and expands tightening boot ?

Wonder if Anti-Seize is non-conductive, I use it on just about everything else.

No, my thinking was that the metal in the boot expands, the rubber of the boot gets soft and the porclein of the plug stays pretty much the same.

All iI know is it worked for me...

Some anti-size is lead based. Probably would be a conductor.

Well, my memory hasn't totally failed me, I knew I had seen some product along the way. Here's the answer and it is a dielectric compound;

www.jcwhitney.com/Lubricants/GP_2019836_N_111+10201+600016853_10101.jcw

(for some reason this link won't come up as clickable, you may have to copy and paste into your browser?)

I may be missing the point that I use permatex spark plug and boot electrical connector Dielectric grease.

Can't remember the last time I had a problem with a spark plug boot.

I was at Harbor Freight spending what veeeery little money I could have called my own today, and spied the pliers I described above AND A T-Handle shaped

"SPARK PLUG BOOT PULLER" (no kidding ). Tool carries an item number of 65440 and retails for $2.99. HF has a 20% off coupon sale on everything in your cart (online or in the store) presently going on so I paid around $2.40 + tax. It is a heavy grade of plastic, and the script on the package reads: "The T-Handle will give you all the pulling power needed to remove and replace even the toughest spark plug boot." Well, that there fancy T-Handle ain't met my tough, mean, and angry Plug Boots yet.....

I hopefully won't be pulling any plugs or wires any time soon, so I can not comment on how successful it might be....

Who knows, it may work just fine....

I have found that if you break the porcelain on the left most rear plug the resultant sharp edge will draw blood from the middle knuckle on the right hand. the resultant expletive and sudden involuntary jerk often is enough to free the seized center wire.

from there it is an easy task to get a pair of channel locks and break the right most porcelain while in the boot and withdraw the entire boot / porcelain assembly very easily. final dis assembly of the boot can thus be accomplished in an area where you can see what the #$%%$^&^ you are doing.

caveat .. use bosch platinum replacement plugs so you will NEVER have to do this again.