Guest ballmon Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Just replaced both of my front hood lift cylnders with the brand from Autozone. It was Mightly Lift that comes in a yellow plastic package. After replacing the cylinders, I noticed the hood took some force to close and then much more pushing force to set the latch. After the hood latched it seemed as though it was not shut tight. I popped the latch and shut harder. The hood latch latches but both forward hood corners near the head lights is flaired up. The hood is bowed in the center where the hood surface sits proud of the adjacent fender by .10 inch. I took the new cylnders off, the hood still does not go flush anymore and the hood is sprung. I can see that I will have a discussion with Autozone in the morning.Question 1: Has anyone seen this problem before? I checked package part numbers and double checked with other autoparts stores and the part numbers check out. Whether the correct part was in the package may be another story. Question 2: Just so that I have ammo to discuss with these guys, I need a few of you guys to do a dimensional check. While the hood is bowed in the middle, it also falls short up at the front end. Can you guys give to me a gap measurement between the very front end of the hood edge with the closed head lamp? My gap now measures .312" (0.8 cm).Thanks for the help, Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta45 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Sounds like the collapsed length of the replacement was too long. It could also have a much higher lifting force than was required.The gap at the headlight covers is adjustable with the adjustment of the hood fore and aft, so there could be various measurements there. Usually set to look right according to the fender hood gap. The hood can be adjusted fore and aft at the hinges. KennyV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta45 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 I forgot to mention...There is also a little adjustment at each headlight cover to allow making both finish the same. KennyV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MauiWowee Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 You are correct......you bowed the hood. A good body man can probably help you out. Don't hold your breath for Autozone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juddev Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Reatta45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I forgot to mention...There is also a little adjustment at each headlight cover to allow making both finish the same. KennyV. </div></div> Are you talking about the washers or something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta45 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 The washers will give you height adjustment, there is also a slight amount of lateral adjustment. BUT if you are needing a bit more the whole hood can be moved fore and aft at the hinges. Is the hood along the fender line high in the middle and correct or low at the ends? If so you will have to have it unsprung. KennyV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ballmon Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 For Reatta45, the hood is high in the middle and correct at the forward and rear ends. It is sprung. And I noticed that the free/uninstalled length of the new and old cylinders eyelits match up in length. To compress by hand and try to get the cylinders eyelits next to each other is a bit cumbersome and I can't do accurately. But I do notice that my old cylinder (just the male portion, where the gas is located) is about .25 inch longer than the new cylinder. This could be the problem. The cylinder stroke length is different there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike_s Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 You may have reinstalled the cylinder hood mounting brackets the wrong way and the bracket could be hitting the car body. If I recall correctly the side piece of the hood bracket should be facing up and not down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 I agree with Kenny........If the cylinders were too strong, you would bend the hood just trying to pull it down.You problem was at the final closed position. The compressed length of the new cylinders are too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steakneggs Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Sounds like the cylinder is too long and the pistonrod is bottoming out on it. You can compress them by hooking it to a 2x4 and using it as a lever. If the compressed length is more than the stock ones you have a case with Autozone. I have Autozone units on the trunk of the Steakmobile. They are plenty stiff but it closes okay. Steak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_blazer1997 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Had same probem. The problem was me turning the hinge the wrong way. Try turning the hinge around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike_s Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Blazer, I do believe we are referring to the same item, you're calling it a hinge, I called it a bracket. I'm referring to the bracket\hinge which mounts to the hood via 2 screws and then the rod end of the hood supports attaches to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_blazer1997 Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Yes you are right bracket. Turn the bracket around maybe that will correct the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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