Jump to content

1925 Timken external band rear brakes


STuTZ693

Recommended Posts

I am working on the Timken external band rear mechanical brakes of my 1925 Stutz and need help with a few items:

Most of the clevis pins are worn and need replaced. Can anyone recommend a source for clevis pins?

One of the brass adjusting nuts is missing.

One of the threaded ajusting rods is missing.

I am going to Hershey next week. Are there any vendors I should seek out for these parts?

Thanks,

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest stude8

I recently had to replace many clevis pins on my 1928 Studebaker Commander brake rod system due to cumulative wear of the several pins in clevis's to each wheel. McMaster-Carr has many sizes in good quality fit and finish their #98340A140 is the SAE 3/8" Diam x 1.06" length less than $6.00 for pkg of 25 pcs. Ph 630-834-9600 order today they ship tomorrow, I live in Illinois so had them the next day actually!

Look at their catalog online with illustrations.

Stude8

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest stude8

I forgot to mention having to make two adjusting nuts for my car that were missing from previous mechanic poor work quality.

I bought a piece of 5/8" Phosphor Bronze round stock from McMaster and since I don't have a lathe I shaped the radiused end with an electric drill and hand held files then shaped the octogon nut shape on opposite end by hand filing. It isn't the prettiest job but it works fine.

Attached are photos of an original Stude 130135 rod length adjustment nut which was a forging and then two views of my homemade repro nut. Just to show it can be done rather easily on garage bench.

The shaft threads are 3/8-24NF, the original nut has two "Wings" that index grooves in the convex swivel the nut penetrates into that prevent the adjustment from changing. These would have been difficult to repro so I just use "Double Nuts" on the shaft to lock the adjustment in position.

Stude8

post-31139-14313800935_thumb.jpg

post-31139-143138009352_thumb.jpg

post-31139-143138009354_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the reply.

I found that restoration supply has all but the largest clevis pin. I checked with McCaster-Carr for the largest pin, 7/16" dia. X 1 3/4" long, but they did not have it. I will have to make one out of a longer standard size pin.

Stude8, Great job. You have inspred me to fabriate the missing adjusting nut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest stude8

Dan

Before I retired I had access to a machine shop lathe but now in a rural scenic spot machine tools are unheard of.

To shape the radius end of the adjusting nut I first drilled and tapped the center shaft hole (by eyeball start with a small pilot bit then increase drill sizes to the tap size for whatever shaft size you require)and tap the threads.

Then I cut the hex head off a 2" 3/8-24 NF bolt, threaded on a hex nut then the bronze adjust nut billet and used the hex nut to lock it on the shaft.

Next chuck the shaft with Bronze piece to shape in a 1/2" electric drill to spin it while you hand shape the radius by applying pressure against a running belt sander.

You'll be surprised how quick you can grind one of these to shape then dress it smooth with gradually finer sand paper held against the surface with the 1/2" drill running.

Even if you had the original adjusting nuts they would likely be so worn that you could not use them anyway, 50 or 60 years wear in the same location creates destructive wear patterns.

Good luck, Stude8

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest simplyconnected

Stude8, I love your phosphor-bronze idea. The part looks great, too. Let me run an idea by you. I know there are lots of ways to skin this cat. I don't have a Stutz. I understand the importance of the 'wings' and offer this solution:

If you made your nut out of stainless stock and drilled a 3/16" cross-hole, you could press (or weld) a stainless rod in place (for the wings), then drill and tap your 3/8"-24 center hole through the rod. All the rest of your proceedure would still apply, but you would have the wings (with no jam nut). I like the hardness of the phosphor-bronze but it would be easier to tack-weld stainless. Would 18-8 stainless be too soft? - Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest stude8

With my limited shop facility here I took the easiest solution to the problem. The jam nut was pretty simple. I had even considered no method of retention since the brake rod is under constant minimal tension against the bellcrank cup device the nut index's with. But brakes are a safety issue. I only have an acetylene torch for welding and I feared too much heat might alter the Bronze material metalurgy resulting in some other wear malady.

I did have to make the nut adjustment end from square to octogon because of interference contact with the bell crank arm. The arm starts at 65 degrees when at rest and pulls into a 90 degree position at maximum pedal effort when rotating the brake action cam. With shoe lining wear this range increases beyond 25 degrees and the nut comes tangent to the arm cup when you optimize the travel. This didn't become apparent until I assembled the first linkage and made the adjustment.

It sure would be nice to just find a box of the factory nuts somewhere, I wonder how many were melted down in WWII scrap drives?

Stude8

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have attached photos of the two parts that I need. I believe I can make the adjustment nuts but the threaded rod is forged and I would like to find an orginal.

I have to believe that these Timken parts are not unique to a Stutz.

Thanks,

Dan DiThomas

post-50728-143138011281_thumb.jpg

post-50728-143138011283_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan

From your photo that adjusting rod doesn't look all that bad, maybe all you need do is chase the threads with a die to clean them up.

I owned a 1930 President for 27 years and in that period nearly never found a single NOS brake part and they had larger production numbers than Stutz I'm sure.

That rod is likely a Stutz proprietary design item so finding a replacement is going to be a tough job. Take good care of it because you might need to use it in the end regardless of cosmetic or usefulness reasons.

Stude8

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stude 8,

The rod in the photo is the good one of the two. The other side has a rod that was fabricated and missing one of the adjusting nuts.

I have posted this on the Stutz club site.

We were on our way to Hershey last week but did not make it. My wife tripped in a Turnpike rest room on the way and broke her ankle.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...