apb Posted July 28, 2008 Share Posted July 28, 2008 while I was working on the turnsignal / brake light issue I have the steering wheel off and should probably fix the horn button while I'm in there but I don't understand all I see.There is a wire inside the steering shaft as expected but there is nothing to connect it to. Should there be a ring or something between the spring and cup to connect the wire to?Any pics of what should be in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted July 28, 2008 Author Share Posted July 28, 2008 Well so much for diligence. I just found the horn button section in the manual. This manual still suprises me. Things I expect to be there aren't and then I find detail I did not expect.Is there susposed to be some sort of pin in the steering shaft that the wire connects to?The manual talks about adjustment but does not show the connection details. That makes sense for if the part was in there it would be pretty simple.Found a picture of a pin and insulator on a Caddy and wonder if the Buick is missing something like that. I'll have to study the parts I have vs the manual illustration in the daylight and see if I can make sense of it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Take a look at this drawings,maybe that will help you to find a solution. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 If you have only a wire in the shaft the end terminal is missing. See part "AG" in the blow up........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 That's exactly what I thought. How does the wire connect to the end terminal? Is it a set scew or did they solder it? It may be easier for me to make those parts than find them. I would assume that the end terminal is made of brass and the insulator could be nylon or what ever? Where do I find the drawing you show? I have been looking for that sort of detail and it has eluded me. I have the Buick shop manual and the Motors repair and parts book but they don't show that kind of detail.Thanks again for the great help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 Well the top part (AI) is pretty easy to fabricate but the lower piece (AC), which I am also missing, is a little more difficult.Does that part cross to anything more modern or avaialble?I put in a call to Wheatbelt to see what they might have.Any other ideas / suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Hi.You will find this drowings in a Buick Master Chassis Book,my book is year 1936-1959 Groop 4.000. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Part AC is a carbon "brush" that contacts the slip ring (part AJ) that is soldered to the lower end of your "wire". It's real common part that should be easy to find in any junk yard with an old Buick or two. Same for the upper terminal. BTW the slip ring is made of thin brass that often splits from age. You can use a piece of 3/4" copper pipe epoxied in place to replace it but the steering column jacket must be removed to get to it. One of those minor problems that turn into a nightmare kind of deals...........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted July 30, 2008 Author Share Posted July 30, 2008 As usual, great info. ThanksI expect that Wheatbelt will have the part.I checked the continuity from the end of the wire and the slip ring as good so I would think the ring might be ok. I would hate to have to pull the whole assembly apart to get that working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Continuity isn't the problem. The brass often stress cracks lengthwise and "catchs" the brush. Not saying yours is cracked but if you put a new lower contact on and it gets broken that's the situation. Good luck........Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted July 30, 2008 Author Share Posted July 30, 2008 I see. I'll have to check that out. That could explain why there is no part there now.I would think if it is large enough to catch and break the brush I would be able to feel it if I rotate the wheel a full revoloution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 What I would do is before I put the new lower contact in I would jack the front wheels off the ground and hold a wood dowel or something similar against the lower contact ring while someone turns the wheel lock to lock. If you feel no "catch" I would say you are good to go. If you are really tool enabled a flexible bore scope would enable you to do a visual. Know any co-operative proctologists?............Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apb Posted August 1, 2008 Author Share Posted August 1, 2008 Sorry no proctologisis in the circle. I'm pretty tool enabled but don't have a bore scope. I do have a very small TV camera that I use in guitar repair that would probably show the thing but I'll probably just use a feeler of some sort. In feeling the ring with my finger it feels a little rough so perhaps I'll apply a little scotch brite while it's jacked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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