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Multi Carburetor Intake Manifolds


peecher

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Good news, Ken Austin is back making manifolds for our V12's. He's been pre ocuppied the last couple years with family medical problems but is now back. You can visit his web site

http://www.austinrodshop.com/index.html or call him at 530-625-6924 for questions and info. He's still offering the dual, triple and 4 barrel options. I presently have a 4 barrel version on order from him. He has had to raise the price due to the cost of aluminum etc. to $750 but still reasonable for a new multi-carb manifold.

I have noticed that the "parts for sale" section of this site seems to have more offerings, lots of good stuff. We need all the help we can get to keep these old rigs in shape!

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If they can supply you a manifold, this is good news. Please post photo when your's is working. What is the best CFM for your 4- barrel? Seems like you'd also like some Red's headers to facilitate better breathing. Absent some after market solution, I've been thinking of making a sheet metal intake. Since the mounting surface is flat, a plain sheet of steel, aluminum, or ABS plastic could be bolted to the engine with eight tubes from the block intake ports to a rectangular box plenum with a carburetor spacer plate attached to the top. Will the Austin unit have provision for a positive crankcase valve (PCV)? Internal engine breathing and sludge is a problem with V-12's.

Abe

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Yes, I will post a photo(s) of the finished manifold. I gave Ken a long list of "required" features and he's on board. Yes, the crankcase vent will be there along with provision for the oil level indicator. I believe both vacuum taps will be there also altho I told him I really only needed the rear one. Both vacuum taps would probably be needed on a dual/triple set up for the distributor vacuum brake. I think a carb of about 500CFM would be the limit and plenty for my set up. The engine has a Isky 77B grind cam and that is just a tad more than a stocker.

I was in the process of modifying an regular intake manifold by milling off the carburetor stachion down into the intake runners and then add a retangular aluminum block that I could either mount the carb to or an adpter plate for the carb. This might be an easier way to go than fabrication a manifold from scratch? I got as far as the milling the top off the manifold when Ken called me, so that's on hold.

I'm thinking that the headers that Red has might present some clearance problems if you tried to use them in a car? I'm not convinced that they would help out all that much considering the restrictions with-in the V12 block and the fairly mild cam. It would be interesting to hear from someone who has installed them though.

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Peecher:

I do have the Red's headers in my 48 LC. I haven't hooked up head pipes yet as I took too much of the rest of the car apart to get it to run to the muffler shop. There is about 1/2 inch clearance to the steering column, otherwise everything is pretty much in the open. The rear tubes come forward enough to miss the starter on the right and the throttle linkage on the left. I'll try to find some pictures. The headers are coated silver and really look sharp.

I was calculating a 292 engine would like a bit less than 600 CFM, sounds like you're in the ball park. Did you re-grind the stock cam or find a rare Isky replacement?

Abe

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The cam was reground to the Isky 77B specs by Delta Cam in Tacoma at a very modest price. They included clearance ramps so it should run fairly quiet.

Did you have to remove the mud pan for the foot pedals in order to have clearance for the exhaust pipe on the left side?

There is a big choice of 600 CFM after market carbs available so that may be what I end up with. I have already modified a couple of post war intake manifolds to accept larger 2 barrel carbs, thinking this may be the route if the 4 barrel wasn't going to happen; the dual set ups work well but are very hard to find and very expensive to boot.

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Peecher:

Thanks for the cam info. I'll check it out for my application. Tacoma isn't that far from Portland. Only drawback is that when you go to mechanical lifters you need to take off the intake manifold to adjust periodically.

I took off the under engine pans to facilitate getting the old exhaust manifolds off, and making it easier to reach underside bolts on the Red's headers. I'm in no hurry to put the pans back, but they should still fit. I took the pans off my 56 country sedan 40 years ago and haven't missed them. The Lincoln radiator is high off the ground and shouldn't need to worry about rocks. The header output pipe is above the pedal level, so we'll have to bend the headpipe away from the pedal travel. You have the option of routing the headpipe through the frame on the left side near the rocker panel or closer to the transmission. I'm going with the outside.

Holly makes some nice 570-590 CFM four barrel carburetors that are flexible and easy to tune. The old Holly hot rod carb no. 1850, 600 CFM might also be OK, although they tend to be a bit rich at idle and low speeds.

Abe

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Adjustable tappets can be a nuisance. A flathead V8 friend of mine gave me a tip that might prolong the "adjustment" period. He puts a drop of Loctite on the adjusting screw after the final adjustment, which i have done. One of my engines has free rotating valves ( '52-'53 Ford/Merc) and this may allow the valve to spin with the tappet and also reduce wear on the valve stem and adjustment screw in the tappet, time and a few miles will tell.

Delta Cam can also do a "hydraulic" grind (77B or whatever)if you prefer to stick with the hydraulic lifters.

The exhaust system sounds very doable. I'll have to look into those carbs but I don't particularly want to use the early type Holleys with the metering blocks.

Lots of fun with these old 12's, Dee

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  • 2 months later...

Manifold up date: Just got a call from Ken Austin and he will be shipping me a 4 barrel carb manifold next week. He has already shipped a triple and and a dual set up. His "dual" customer reports good results using "Demon" carbs. The fun begins soon. I've prepared 2 different carbs to try on this set up, both fairly low CFM with vacuum controlled secondaries.

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Here is my Edelbrock 2x2 intake on my 48 conv. coupe Im using stock lincoln carbs with spacers from speedway motors, kave the power valves in both carbs and running .52 jets

Idid the switch to two six volt coils from a tractor that can run on 6 volts all the time and the car runs great, wish it was a 3x2 for better gas milage but what can you do.

Now I need to up grade my brakes so it stops as good as it runs.

post-33161-143138009663_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I enjoyed your picture showing the dual carb set up. I have three questions: the picture shows an alternator,the alternator has a double sheeve pulley and two belts what does the inside belt drive? You indicated that you have employed two 6 volt tractor coils which use 6v all of the time--please explain this to me. and last where did get your 6 v alternator. Thanks for the information. Glenn Lorei (b6vt)

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Guest peter_smith

Glenn

I have had a 6 volt 38 amp + ground alternator on my zephyr for over a year now and it has coped very well see Ebay item

260298112833 I think about $65 this is a tractor site, but they have some usefull stuff.

I have also fitted separate modern coils, see pic in post "Just a Warning" further down the main page.

Regards

Peter Smith UK

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It just looks like 2 pullies on the Alt due to the chrome reflection, it is only one pully. If you run 6 volt tractor coils you wont need the resistors and will get a much hotter spark, I havent had any problems yet. I made my own 6 volt + ground Alt since I had a chrome case laying around, you can get the kits on ebay if you dont have a good parts store ar rebuild shop around.

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Peter, Thanks for the information--I didn't know you were in the UK. It is very interesting that there are as many Lincoln 12s there. I am planning a trip there, I want to visit Normandy. I'd like to see your car. Glenn Lorei

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