ID for a Heavy Dodge truck

I have what was to be a 1938 Dodge three ton truck with a flat head six with duly axles. the lug pattern is a 5 lug on a 8 inch pattern with a six and 3/4 inch center hole and 6x20 inch duly tires. when I ran the numbers through the decoder it specified the vehicle as a 1936 1/2 ton truck. When did dodge make a 1/2 ton truck with duly rear end I don't know, however if anyone could help me decipher the known numbers I found on the vehicle or let me know where I could find the frame numbers it would be of great help in identifying this vehicle

The numbers I located on the firewall appear to be as follows

serial number 8149991

production number / body number H-1-2-LR40188

Hi Gary, got any photos of your truck ?

I have a 1938 Dodge 3/4 ton with 6 bolt wheels.

I will post photos as I go I have just acquired this vehicle and it is ruff shape. This vehicle has been in a field since 1965.

My trusted Red Book list the '36 half-ton, 116" WB Serial Numbers starting at 8105601 and up. 1937 Serial Numbers from 8156701 and up.

Serial #'s can be found on front end of left frame member to rear of front spring hanger or just above rear front spring hanger.

Can't help with the body numbers, sorry. I'd start by measuring the wheelbase, as the Serial #'s are "staggered," and the WB may change the range of numbers above. Let us know, okay?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TG57Roadmaster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Serial #'s can be found on front end of left frame member to rear of front spring hanger or just above rear front spring hanger.

</div></div>

Are you sure about this? I tried to find one from my trucks frame and never found anything

My frame has been sand blasted many years ago, so maybe the serial disappeared because of that???

I finally removed the cab, fenders, and stripped the body and have not been able to locate any frame numbers to help me identify the year of this truck. I will post photos as soon as I can get my son to show me how.

Sand blasting should not remove the serial No if it was there ,it could be harder to read but will not be completly removed by sand blasting

According to this serial number book, you have a 1935/36 1/2 ton, Model LC, with a 116 inch wheelbase.

Your posted serial number falls within the range listed for that truck. (first listing top of the page, middle set of serial numbers)

Serial Number Guide

Here are the photos of my truck.

<a href=http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x317/APC_Enterprise>My Pictures</a>

I finally got the vehicle apart, I have not found any numbers on the frame as of yet. I did find that the vehicle has a wheel base of 161 inches.

the above photo is the truck that I am starting a complete frame off restoration or remodel. I am attempting to keep the vehicle as original as I can, however I have been thinking of sand blasting the frame and wheels and having them power-coated. I am constructing a flatbed for the truck, as I am unsure what the vehicle had on th3e rear. I did find a wooded stake-bed where I picked up the vehicle. I am having problems deciding what color to paint the body. I have been unable to locate 6.5 x 20 inch tires, inner tubes, and wheel protectors. I am down to removing the front and rear axles.

Gary: I am pretty confident that you have a 1936 Dodge 1 1/2 ton truck. The grille shell is identical to mine. Someone has welded in non original bars and mesh to make a grille. The original bars are very thin metal and fragile for a heavy duty truck. I looked many, many years to try and find a decent original. I paid $500.00 for one from California but it was still bent up on the bottom. I used it for a template and rebuilt entirely new bars. I still have the steel forms for bending new ones. I bet your truck has fatique cracks around the rear body mounts on the rear cab floor. Most do. I spent over three years restoring mine and 2 other parts trucks. If you need any help (when I have time) let me know. Yours looks better than what I started with. Also the headlight buckets don't look original. I had the same ones on mine. They were sealed beam buckets that someone welded on. Ed Joyce

you would be correct, my truck has fatigue cracks around the rear body mount on the left side rear cab floor, although it is not a large one. most of the floor, cab, and body fenders are in good shape. I have attempted to find a photo of the original grille and have not found one yet. The fact that someone has welded in non original bars and mesh to make a grille would not surprise me as the truck belonged to a welding company in Colorado Springs. The gross vehicle weight rating was 5100 lbs listed on the side of the truck but the ID numbers come back to a 1/2 ton truck. I believe that the truck would look good with a flat bed like the photo below, what do you think?

Gary: Yes the truck would look good as a stake body. The inspiration for me to complete my truck was Dennis Campbell's 1936 stake body. Green body and black fenders and running boards. I traveled from Pgh to south of Cleveland 3 times to look and take pictures of his low mileage truck with original grille. I have pictures of it but I didn't own a digital camera back then. My greatest thrill was when he offered to give me a ride in his truck. That was less than 1 year from when I completed mine. It was great. He added an auxiliary transmission behind the regular transmission to get better road speed. That truck was sold to someone here in Florida but I don't know where it is. Other colors shown on the advertisement from 1936 show yellow & black, blue & black, and of course my favorite red & black. Good luck on your project. Send me some pics on my email if you get time.

Ed: You said that the head lights did not appear to be original, what did the original lights look like? I am curious about the aux trans, could you provide further information on that, as how it would mount in the frame with the original including the speed. does that include a overdrive gear? I am sorry I have so many questions. i cam build new motors blindfolded, but I am new at full restoration projects. This wold be my first frame off try.

Gary: I have had some help to scan pictures and info you are looking for. It would be a bit much to post here so send me your email so I can forward to you.

Ed

ED: Sent them to myhobbyshop@msn.com I'm looking forward to the photos and information. this may help me in building my truck. By the way I just picked up a 1946 Dodge 1 1/2 ton truck that will be delivered late august.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GaryC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I finally got the vehicle apart, I have not found any numbers on the frame as of yet. I did find that the vehicle has a wheel base of 161 inches. </div></div>

I guess you couldn't find the Dodge section? so you posted in this generic forum. I can't make out the model on the serial number plate. The truck appears to be modified somewhat.

I used to have a 1936 Dodge 1-1/2 ton with 'suicide' doors. Front fenders, running boards and splash aprons were 'trucky'. Cab was same as 1/2 ton. As I recall it had long mirrors and cab marker lights.

A side view profile showing the front fender and running board would be helpful.

If the sheet metal looks like passenger car then maybe the frame was extended to build a truck. Not uncommon seeing as how it belonged to a welding shop. Do the front wheel and tire size match the rear?

If the sheet metal is clearly big truck then maybe the cab was swapped onto this chassis.

The engine is later model. What is the engine (motor) number? It is on driver's side of block, on a pad just below the head gasket, above the 'freeze' plug. The casting number you show in your pics seems to be from the 1954 era.

Engine Number Pad Location is the wide pad just under the head, seen here above the frost plug in your engine picture:

The cab & fenders are a match to Ed's red truck posted above with the exception of the aux light mounted on the top of the fender.

I found no evidence that the frame was extended. I sent the frame out to be sandblasted.

Front and rear wheels are 6.5 x20. I will check and send you the numbers for the motor as I get back to the shop on Sunday.

dep5: Dodge introduced the all steel cab with front hinged doors in 1935. All the medium and heavy duty trucks changed during this year including pickups. The only wood left in the cab was the floorboard infill. Cabs on the bigger trucks were the same as the pickup. The turn signals and marker lights are after market add-ons. Tire sizes were different from front to back on larger trucks.

If the front tire were different then what would they be,and what size would the rear tires be?

Gary: Sales literature I have show 6.00/20 6-ply tires as standard for the front. The dual wheels were 7.00/20 8-ply and you could also get 10-ply. I have the 7.00/20 on the back of my truck. Got them at Lucas Tire (Denman brand)

I like the idea of having 10 ply tires on the rear of the truck to hold more weight. How much did the (Denman brand) tires cost you, and where is a location for Denman tires?