TripleRRR Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Fully Restored 1936 Chrysler Airstream Staunton, Virginia, USAContact: Joy joy@frogpondpickers.com or 703-430-3118We are asking $50K.Pictures and info available at http://www.frogpondpickers.com/chrysler1936.htmlDetails:1936 Chrysler Airstream C-7Detailed Restoration HistoryEngineEngine was totally rebuilt. It is called a flathead six, for six cylinders.The pistons were not available so they had them made(machined) to specs. Has new clutch, pressure plate, flywheel has been resurfaced. New brakes, new bearings, new valve seats, etc. Considered to be like a new motor. By the way, the car holds 15 gallons of gasoline in it's tank.InteriorAs far as the interior is concerned here is what was done.The original interior was still in the car when Dad bought it. It also had the original assist straps and carpet. It also contained an extra back seat spring unit in case the original was broken inside the seat cover. The headliner was made of cotton and was replaced with the equivalent of reproduction headliner materials. The seats were reupholstered with the original mohair with the correct size and placement of the buttons. The door panels were also reproduced with the original buttons and stitching.The carpet was replaced with wool carpet of the 1936 era. The design above the inside windshield header was stitched as original as was the back of the front seat. The robe cord was replaced and the dash and garnish mouldings were woodgrained like the original.Exterior Complete exterior restoration. Chrome plating of grill and bumpers. It has new whitewall tires and the wheels were painted as the factory had painted them. It does have signal lights installed for safety reasons, but is located on the steering column and could easilly be removed. It has a spare tire in the trunk and the trunk has been covered with black trunk lining for sound purposes. The glove compartments were remade and installed in the dash. The same with the kick panels. The quarter windows need to have new gaskets but they are not available that I know of. That is why we have never driven the car in the rain and it is always stored inside with the cover on it. Still trying to locate gaskets for quarter windows to make it waterproof 100%. There was no runniing board material available for this car when he restored it, so he used something equal to it. He made the rear trunk chrome piece that was broken and had it plated. It has the original windshield wipers. The only thing Dad didn't have done was the inside door sill plates, but we have the originals with the Chrysler Emblems on them.The automobile serial number located on the right frontdoor pillar is as follows: 6858129 It coinsides withAirstream Six Serial Numbers 6823301 thru 6865003 for the year 1936.Here is a list with engine numbers and data plates. Motor Numbers: (as they appear on the top of the motor head)Engine Number: 649853-1 S-1 C-7 Manufacturers Plate on the firewall in the engine compartment:Chrysler Corporation Detroit Michigan Correspondence pertaining to the body Must bear these numbers: C74T-28085 309-294 Job No 76-136 TMMiscellaneous additional parts:Repair manualChrome GrillDoor sill plates2 Complete quarter windows with handles and gasketsOriginal assist strap from original upholsteryOne hubcapCarberetorDistributorStarter1 Quart 600 W Oil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RAFA Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 MY HEARTFELT SYMPATHY TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY ( RRR )ALL I CAN SAY IS <span style="font-size: 14pt">WOW.</span>WHAT A BEAUTIFUL CAR I WISH MINES LOOKED THIS GOOD.RAFA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TripleRRR Posted August 21, 2007 Author Share Posted August 21, 2007 Thanks! I'm glad you found the pics.Joy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TripleRRR Posted September 10, 2007 Author Share Posted September 10, 2007 Priced at $50K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36airstream Posted December 29, 2010 Share Posted December 29, 2010 Is this car now in Spokane, WA? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AFOGEY Posted January 18, 2011 Share Posted January 18, 2011 <FIELDSET class=fieldset><LEGEND>Attached Thumbnails</LEGEND> </FIELDSET>FOR SALE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williegeno Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 Looks Great...I know that this is an old post and the car is likely gone. Do you still have any parts? If so, let me know what you have.Williegeno@aol.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I've decided to put my 36 C7 Roadster in my Avitar up for sale if interested. Just PM me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williegeno Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I assume that you are still receiving action on your C7 but my note is to ask a question. Can you share any information as to the fittings that secure your hood in place between the top of the radiator shell and the windshield cowling? The hood on my C7 has fittings that have obviously been modified and changed by previous owners and long story short, the hood is only secured by the side clamping lever rods and not in the center. When one lifts the hood side panel to access the engine, the hood slides away over the top. I have been trying to find descriptions of the original method of attachment in the parts manuals I have been able to purchase but so far, it has been a lost cause. Can you share any photographic description of the method used to secure your hood in place on its centerline?Williegeno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Your hood has a rod through the hood hinge I believe that goes into a Hood hinge pivot at each end. There is a guy reproducing them on ebay. I think he is a member on these forums as well. Here is a link for one kind http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1930s-DODGE-HOOD-HINGE-L-R-PIVOTS-DPCD-STAINLESS-STEEL-MIRROR-SHINE-TRUCK-/321335857268?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad11c1074&vxp=mtrand another kind http://www.ebay.com/itm/1936-Plymouth-Dodge-Chrysler-DeSoto-Hood-HINGE-ENDS-NOS-MoPar-Chryco-PAIR-F-R-/140962823878?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d209fec6&vxp=mtrI think the second ones listed are what are on my car. I can go out and confirm if you you can't tell from what you have. Just let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol swede Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 I'm pretty sure mine has the 1st style from the links posted (although not stainless) I also can look. Dale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williegeno Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Thank you for your reply.My initial solution was to correct what I had with a 3/16" that would extend from the two pivot posts (shown as the second alternative in the 1936 Plymouth reference as NOS articles. the 1936 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler DeSoto Hood HINGE ENDS NOS MoPar Chryco PAIR F & R shown at the second site referemced is what I have now, although they have been altered to accommodate some stripped bolt holes in the cowling.Long story short, the solution shown in the first reference utilizing heavier rod stock might have been workable but adapting the existing NOS hinge members to the 3/16" diameter stock did not produce an acceptable result. It would appear that the original NOS hinge member will only work if the center chrome strip connecting to two top hood members is pristine. Unfortunately mine is not...being jimmied and split at both ends. Because of the unique hood hinge design of the C7 hood, this issue has presented a real mind-teaser.Any thoughts?Williegeno 1936-Plymouth-Dodge-Chrysler-DeSoto-Hood-HINGE-ENDS-NOS-MoPar-Chryco-PAIR-F-R Have one to sell? Sell it yourself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milpaint Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I elected to engineer a hybrid. I cut 3/4" off of both ends of the original stainless center cap and inserted a 3/16" steel rod. The rod was positioned to protrude out of each end by 5/8" and was welded in place. Then I purchased the new style hold downs from ebay and inserted the rod and reinstalled. The chrome hold downs match nicely with the stainless and the seam in less than 1/8". All in all very pleased and I can open and close the hood by myself. I still need to be careful as it is a very tight fit. With only one rod the hood opens 100% one side at a time but if opening both sides can only go up about 75% on each. Just my 2 cents on how I dealt with the worn hinge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williegeno Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Sounds like a good solution....Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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