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Filling Fluid Drive Assistance Please


Guest CharlesinMaine

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Guest CharlesinMaine

<span style="font-size: 14pt"> </span> <span style="font-weight: bold"> Today we drove 100 miles. She shifts fine and I am pretty convinced that what little slippage is noticable is possibly from the clutch which has little free-play. We will try and adjust tomorrow. There are no leaks from the fluid drive and the car is a real pleasure to drive thanks to all of your help. Now to find a 6 volt blinker relay and all electricals will be working with exception of the radio that lights up but no sound whatsoever.

Rusty and Friends In Fluid Drive, Many Thanks

davidatcampsmall.jpg

Charles In Maine</span>

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What a beautiful car. You must be pleased as Punch.

On the radio question. The most common thing to go wrong is the vibrator. There should be a slight hum from the vibrator when the radio is on. If there is no sound at all the vibrator can usually be fixed by cleaning the points. If necessary you can replace the vibrator with a NOS unit or a new made transistor replacement, which is completely silent.

It is best to take the radio to a tube radio expert. The next most common thing to go wrong is the capacitors, they were only supposed to last 10 years, 20 at the most. A good radio man can replace the caps and tune it up so it will work amazing, way better than the cheap AM radios they make today.

It is also possible to add an FM receiver and wire it to play thru your original radio amp for a true tube sound.

Likewise a CD player. A cheap $19.95 FM radio - CD player from Walmart will do. If it is made to work on 9 volts of batteries it will work off your 6 volt car and you can wire it into your original radio.

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Guest CutNChop

Must be hard to navigate with that big tree on the front fender!!

wink.gif

Glad you got it going and on the road, it's a beauty for sure.

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Guest CharlesinMaine

<span style="font-weight: bold"> It has been about a year now since my 17 year assistant David Machaiek died suddenly of a stroke at 50 years of age.

Two days before he died he placed an eBay listing on my desk and exclaimed " you must buy this Hemi for your wife, it is really cool and has a continental kit to boot!" David was only kidding for I had just bought a 1953 Chrysler Town and Country Station Wagon. He thought my wife should have the Hemi. We both laughed and I excalimed have a great weekend. He died 4am Saturday evening. Following the funeral there was a ceremony at the Museum. When it was over, I went to my office and put my head down on my desk only to realize I was staring at the eBay listing of this car located in Missouri, that had been in storage for 30 years. I noticed that the auction was ending in three minutes. I turned to my computer, brought up the listing and there was 1 minute to go. It had not met its reserve and the high bid was $4,000.00 . David made my hand enter $10,000.00 and hit enter. The auction was over and I had met the reserve at $4500.00 and I was the owner! $2,000.00 later I had it moved from Missouri. When it arrived it was running on 4 cylinders. After doing the valves, heads, rockers, exhaust, brakes, power steering etc.. and finally the fluid drive, "David" is now part of the family. Though my wife does not want to drive it, she really likes the car.

I had bought her a tank a year before and she sais that it must now be sold! So thats the story of "David". The journey of bringing the Hemi to life was only made possible by peole on this forum. A special thanks to Rusty O Tool and others for their extended efforts!! Thanks, Charles and Ann

Here is "David" along with Ann's 50 MPH Rolls Royce powered Ferret tank (only 10 feet long, registered and on the road).

Click on the auction link at the bottom of this post to visit the photos of 200 vehicles including Ann's tank in the up-coming August 18th Auction to be held at the Owls Head Museum here in Maine. There are 100 no reserve cars.

</span>

hemipallet8-07.jpg

tank.jpg

Click HERE for photos of vehcicles in t... other vehicles

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These fluid drive couplings are to be filled in the car at the 3" access plug cover on the right side of the bell housing. Turn the coupling W/ the starter or by the fan blade until the 3/4" hex plug is seen through the access hole. Remove plug carefully with a rag over it, there could be residual pressure.With the coupling at this position-2:00, Fill it till it runs out.At this coupling position you can only fill it to the proper level so as to leave fluid expansion space. I made a special large needle gun to inject the fluid into the coupling at a downward angle so the air could escape as I carefully pushed ASW 32 fluid into the couplings. I never would change the fluid. Shouldn`t really need to.I have always just topped off the fluids if needed in these "Fluid Drive" couplings. Long time ago,20 years? I did fill one completely and thats when I realized I needed to make the Needle gun out of a special oil pump gun. Took about an hour to fill it. Don`t remember how many quarts though.

Bob

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Guest CutNChop

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bober</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> These fluid drive couplings are to be filled in the car at the 3" access plug cover on the right side of the bell housing. Turn the coupling W/ the starter or by the fan blade until the 3/4" hex plug is seen through the access hole. Remove plug carefully with a rag over it, there could be residual pressure.With the coupling at this position-2:00, Fill it till it runs out.At this coupling position you can only fill it to the proper level so as to leave fluid expansion space. I made a special large needle gun to inject the fluid into the coupling at a downward angle so the air could escape as I carefully pushed ASW 32 fluid into the couplings. I never would change the fluid. Shouldn`t really need to.I have always just topped off the fluids if needed in these "Fluid Drive" couplings. Long time ago,20 years? I did fill one completely and thats when I realized I needed to make the Needle gun out of a special oil pump gun. Took about an hour to fill it. Don`t remember how many quarts though.

Bob </div></div>

You should have read the whole thread.

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Guest CharlesinMaine

<span style="font-weight: bold"> Yes, if only we had a 3" plug or any access on the bell housing on the right side that lined up with the fill-plug. But there was never one intended for this final fluid drive version prior to the automatics of 1954. This was the "trouble free" last attempt design of the ole fluid drive , not torque engine fed or reservoir fed.

They were serviced at the dealership and a low level of fluid was cause to have the unit replaced. If drained the dealership had a special vent/fill pump. We just do not know the capacity, we drained 8 quarts out and put 8 quarts in after pulling a vacuum on the unit and then feeding with a suspended IV bag and tube.

We have now moved on to the wretched problem of a fuel tank that needs to be removed and sent out for coating. The new fuel in Maine loves to break down the years of crud in the tank and leaves my in line AC plastic filter at the tank full of jet black scale or what ever. I am trying to get by for the season prior to what seems to be easy tank removal and a subsaquent decision where to send it for blasting and coating. I will try a large 3" dia . in-line filter...??? <span style="font-size: 11pt"> </span> </span>

Charles

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  • 2 months later...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CharlesinMaine</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> It has been about a year now since my 17 year assistant David Machaiek died suddenly of a stroke at 50 years of age.

Two days before he died he placed an eBay listing on my desk and exclaimed " you must buy this Hemi for your wife, it is really cool and has a continental kit to boot!" David was only kidding for I had just bought a 1953 Chrysler Town and Country Station Wagon. He thought my wife should have the Hemi. We both laughed and I excalimed have a great weekend. He died 4am Saturday evening. Following the funeral there was a ceremony at the Museum. When it was over, I went to my office and put my head down on my desk only to realize I was staring at the eBay listing of this car located in Missouri, that had been in storage for 30 years. I noticed that the auction was ending in three minutes. I turned to my computer, brought up the listing and there was 1 minute to go. It had not met its reserve and the high bid was $4,000.00 . David made my hand enter $10,000.00 and hit enter. The auction was over and I had met the reserve at $4500.00 and I was the owner! $2,000.00 later I had it moved from Missouri. When it arrived it was running on 4 cylinders. After doing the valves, heads, rockers, exhaust, brakes, power steering etc.. and finally the fluid drive, "David" is now part of the family. Though my wife does not want to drive it, she really likes the car.

I had bought her a tank a year before and she sais that it must now be sold! So thats the story of "David". The journey of bringing the Hemi to life was only made possible by peole on this forum. A special thanks to Rusty O Tool and others for their extended efforts!! Thanks, Charles and Ann

................

</div></div>

My sincere condolences for the loss of your friend. Im sure he was aware of how lucky he was to have a friend such as you.

That is a beautiful car, and I think its a fitting tribute to your friend to remember his last friendly conversation with you by buying it and enjoying it, even naming it in his honor.

Im not the first to say it, but life is indeed too short.

Kudos.

Mike

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  • 4 weeks later...

I am fairly sure that what you have is a "Fluid Torque DRIVE" converter connected to a "Fluid Drive Transmission". My l953 Windsor has such an arrangement. It uses the engine oil to feed the Torque Converter--NOT the Fluid Drive M-6 transmission. STEP 1. Drain the Converter from beneath the car by removing a plate on the bottom of the Converter. STEP 2. TURN the converter till a drain bolt appears, remove the bolt and drain the converter. STEP 3. Replace the bolt and washer in converter and TORQUE TO PROPER TORQUE (see shop manual). STEP 4. Now drain the Engine crankcase by removing the drain plug. Replace the drain plug AND tighten. STEP 5. If you ARE NOT replacing the oil filter add 12 quarts of 30 weight engine oil. IF you are replacing the oil filter add 13 quarts. STEP 6. Idle engine for FIVE MINUTES. Check fluid level. The details for all of this, plus checking the FLUID DRIVE TRANSMISSION can be found in Section IV and XV of the Chrysler Shop Manual. Check out the Online Imperial Club website. I believe they have an on-line shop manual for your car (The Chrysler New Yorker and Imperial had identical drive trains ).

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  • 11 years later...

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