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Engine overhaul - no start


Guest nasmith

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Guest nasmith

Well, its disappointing to have the engine back in the '40 LZ and not be able to get it to start. I had the 292 block bored .030 over, put in new cam bearings, timing gears, pistons and pins, rings, and valve guides. The valves have been ground and the adjustable lifters set. Tried to start it and it cranks slow due to being tight; added a shot of starting fluid and it started for a few seconds and then died - did this twice. Now all it will do is backfire through the carb and the exhaust. I have filled the carb bowl with gas and have jumped it with 12 volts to no avail. There is spark at the plugs. There is compression on all 12 cylinders and the timing appears to be correct. I am at a loss so all suggestions are welcome.

TIA Norm Smith

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it is very easy to disturb wires in dist. a couple come out..or crossed

will give u those symptoms...look at the little numbers in each cap..nicely

numbered on both sides..

compression ok..but make certain valve leak down is in specs..take the schraeder

valve out of compression guage..watch action..valves too tight??

i had problems with condensers...plenty of spark..but....misbehaved..

jb

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Norm, if you have a fat yellow spark to the plugs when you pull a wire, and you see gas come out of the 2 spouts down in the carb bowl when you pump the accelerator, you are set to run, we always coaxed a recalcitrant in the old days with a good tow, put it in high or second gear, and it will soon be running, disconnect the tow rope, and drive it home, let it run a while, until the temp comes up to normal, and my guess it will start easily after that. That's the way it was in the 50's, and that much is not that different now, even though everything else is, Jeff, if the distributor is 180 off it will not run, as Norm said it did, believe me, and there would be some badly damaged parts too, good luck, let us know how it goes-

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Guest nasmith

Thanks for the ideas. there is truly a wealth of information at this forum. I discovered that a previous owner had bypassed the coil resistors. I will be fixing that and replacing the condensers and hopefully that will help (though that doesn't seem likely, given the way it started and ran for a few seconds). When I am ready to try again I will jump the starter from a 12 volt battery to get a little more "spin". I'm still hoping for a "revelation". I will let you know how it goes.

Norm

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Guest DavidHitchinson

I'm not sure I would put 12 volts to the whole system. The starter can take it but you would risk frying the coil and condensors running them on 12 volts. Just my 2cents Dave

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Guest nasmith

Hey guys, thanks for all of the advice. New condensors, new resistors, regapped the points, regapped and cleaned the plugs and finally, cranking very slowly on 6 volts it fired and continued to run. Still stiff but very smooth, it won't idle yet, but tomorrow will get some more break-in time. Now to put some key parts back on it and take it for a drive.

Norm Smith

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