Over heating at idle/slow speeds

Because of the low idle speed required for a Fluid-Drive car, I've been advised by more than one radiator guy that insufficient air-flow at idle is my problem. I've been told by Flex-A-Light Fan Co. that no off-the-shelf parts will fit without an adapter, which will put the fan into the radiator. I've also been advised that a shroud would help, as well. As 6 Cyl. cars did not come with a shroud, there's no direct replacement. I've done the block clean-out,new waterpump, etc.-etc.- the car still gets hot at idle. Living in So. Cal., this is not good. Any Suggestions? I'll start working on the current-draw issue this weekend, let you guys know what I find. Thanks, Bob.

Sounds like a question for you desert-neighbor, Jon Robinson...

Bob, I think we talked abuot this before---did you say that the rad has not been re-cored?? If not you have to bite the bullet and get er done. I did mine and she runs cool--would do the heater core or disconnect it if you do the rad as you don`t want all that old junk from your heater core getting into the new rad. Good Luck.........52er

52'er---Thanks for reminding me. Must've had a "SENIOR MOMENT"!!!

What!!! I forgot already!!!!!

Hey, Bob:

You need to re-core the raditor.

You can have a high-efficiency, three-row MX core installed in your original frame and tanks. They look fine, and they really work well. I have one in my 1950 DeSoto here in the High Desert, and there happens to be one in the 1936 Chrysler I just bought. It will make a difference.

It's easy to assume a four-row radiator will cool more than a three-row raditor, but there are matters of tube-size, tube surface area, fin-count, fin design, and construction materials that make a bigger difference in efficiency than the number of rows. The three-row MX is in many motorhomes. You'll like it. It only costs about $50 more than a standard-efficiency radiator.

If you're having trouble finding a good radiator shop, go to Broadway Radiator up here in Hesperia.

Also, use Redline Water Wetter. I'm not much for claims, but I've heard the full explanation for Water Wetter, and I'm inclined to believe the story. Water Wetter decreases the surface tension of the water and coolant, meaning the liquid has a weaker skin on its surface. Even on a cool-running engine, there are hot spots, and you'll have local boiling points where hot surfaces have a fulm of bubbles on them. The film of bubbles will not let the passing coolant cool the surface. The Water Wetter makes the skin on the bubbles too weak to support the bubbles, so the bubbles burst into the water. With the bubbles gone, the passing coolant comes into full contact with the hot surfaces and takes the heat away. It will not lower your over-all temperature, but you'll just have to know in your mind that the water is cooling surfaces that are often covered in a film of bubbles.

JON

I went through the overheating issues with my

spitfire 6. I put a pusher fan in it in front

of the radiator, recored the radiator and in the

summer I run water with wetter and rust inhibitor/lube.

I had no problems last summer.