steering wheel removal

I disasembled the light switch on the end of the steering box. I have attached pictures. What you see sticking out the end is the rod that inserts in the middle of the 3 position switch that I removed. Near that on the top of the picture is where the throttle linkage attaches to the steering box. Not sure where to go from here.

Another picture

Can you take a picture of what's under the horn button. I'll let you know how to remove the "plate," but first I need to see what you're talking about.

West

Since you have the lightswitch off already, 'You're Almost There'. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

First remove the top standoff-bolt that mounts lightswitch to steeringbox, this gives more access room to Throttle linkage gears clamp bolts.

After removing clevis pin that attaches adjustable Throttle leakage rod to linkage-cam-gear (to prevent stress on the parts), loosen clamp bolts that hold cam-gear onto tube. Gear then slide off the end of tubes and horn wire. (The gear is a cast piece that can be broken, so Be Careful) Be sure to note the orintation of everything before removing so it can be reinstalled the same way. Push the tubes up from bottom end enough to be able to get hold of them at top end and pull them out the top of column. The parts clamped at bottom end of column and horn wire are the only things holding the tubes in column, so once they are loosened and removed the tubes should slide out. Try to pull all the tubes out together but if the inside ones want to come out first that's okay, just be careful with spacers at top end. The horn wire comes out with the tubes, so be careful not to catch and break the wire as you are removing them.

Speedster,

What is holding the steering wheel cover on? How many tubes are we talking about?

There are 3 tubes, center one is for horn wire and lightswitch and the next activates throttle. The outer one holds the horn-button backplate in place and I think it is also the one that the gear assembly clamps onto at bottom end.

What cover are you asking about? After removing the horn button parts the plate on end of center tube should be visible in center of steering wheel. (you said you already had the horn-button parts off, correct?) The round plates that knobs are attached to, are attached to ends of tubes, so knobs and all come out with tubes. (Of course, I'm assuming the '32 is made the same as '29.)

I'll send you a picture later tonight when I get home but let try to describe. The horm button which is about 2" diameter, unscrews from the steering wheel. What I'm left looking at is a about a 4 inch plate. Beneath the plate and coming out from the side are the throttle and light control switches. As part of the plate looks like there are two stops, upper and lower. In the middle of the plate there is a threaded rod which the horm button had been screwed to.

o when I push outthese rod from the bottom of the column, are they attached to this center plate?

Okay, I think I understand, that you have not removed the horn-button-backplate. On the '29 it is removed by pushing In and rotating CCW 90deg. (there are locking flanges that engage), but since you are removing the tubes, I think I would try leaving it in place until you get the tubes out part way then you can see how the button-backplate is attached to outer tube plate and will be much easyer to hold on to and remove. (since I'm not sure if it is made the same as '29) Remove the button-backplate before pulling the tubes out all the way. I think the button-backplate should come out with tubes, but when pushing on bottom end push on the outer tube only, because if you push on the center tubes it may put too much stress on the button-backplate. It depends on how easy they slip out. (On the '29 the backplate is made of a plastic type material and easily broken so be careful if trying to turn it or pushing it)

There are brass bearing clips around and along the tubes, so when pushing them out you have to overcome the friction of these clips and it depends on how much grease is still in there. The clips shouldn't fall out, they are in grooves in tubes.

Here's the 4" cover I'm looking at after I remove the horn button.

Here's a picture from the side.

The cover should come out with the tubes. You probably won't need to take the cover off the assembly.

OK, I have made prgress with help from a friend. We got the tubes out in one piece with the steering wheel cap. We removed the steering wheel column nut in the center of the steering wheel. Now we're trying to figure out how to get the steering wheel off the column. Here's a picture. Looks like the steering wheel is keyed.

Great, Since there are no threaded holes for a wheel puller. I think all you can do is put some penitrating oil around the shaft, rock it from side to side at the same time pull up on it. I would put the nut back on a little way tho, so the wheel won't fly up and hit you in the nose. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I forgot to mention, that is another reason you may want to remove the front seat also, so you can get that 800.lb Gorilla in there, to pull up on that wheel. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Went to do battle with the steering wheel today, and the fight to my surprise was short. Last night I put some penetrating oil on the hub. Today I sprayed some liquid wrench on the hub. I put the nut back on and gave it a few raps with a hammer. I then tugged the upper and lower portion of the wheel and it came off in a jiffy.

Thanks for the help. Do you know if I can remove the steering column outside cover without removing the steering column.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Do you know if I can remove the steering column outside cover without removing the steering column. </div></div>

If you are talking about removing the outer tube of column from the steering box, I don't think so. I've never tried that, I think they are pressed together and there is no way to hold on to the tube without damageing it, to twist or pull. I would leave them together. Even tho it is difficult to paint the column tube that way. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Hi Ken or Others,

What size nut holds the steering wheel on? I measured 1-1/2" from flat to flat is this correct?

I want to stop at parts store on the way home from work and just making sure I buy the right size. The Parts manual didn't tell me what size. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I think you'll find that it is a non-standard thread, but I'm not 100% sure.

The steering wheel is still on with nut. I tried a crescent but can't get a good bite so I need to know the size of the head on the nut so I can get the right size socket.

<span style="font-style: italic">I stop at AutoZone on way home from work bought a 1-1/2" socket, some PB BLASTER, Spray Lithium Grease to use on tubes and some hand cleaner. Well I got the nut off but the socket is a little bigger then the nut. Will go back to AutoZone with nut and try in different sockets. Ken you are right the steering wheel is a bear to get off I sprayed it down and will give it a try later. </span>

For Reference the nut is 1-7/16". But wouldn't you know it I I grabbed a 3/4" drive. I don't have any 3/4" drive so it looks like I need to buy and adapter because they didn't have 1-7/16" in 1/2" drive or off to Sears or Home Depot. URggg

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For Reference the nut is 1-7/16". But wouldn't you know it I I grabbed a 3/4" drive. I don't have any 3/4" drive so it looks like I need to buy and adapter because they didn't have 1-7/16" in 1/2" drive or off to Sears or Home Depot. URggg </div></div>

My car is still at the upholstery shop so I can't answer questions. See I got lucky with mine. When I removed the pitman arm on my T-Bird, I bought three sockets different sizes just to be safe. One of those also fit the steering wheel when time came to remove that nut. So Iwas planning ahead without knowing it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

For 3/4" drives, I have found that the "big" chain stores i.e kragen, pep boys and such don't have them. Sears is your best bet

The wheel is being stubborn I couldn't get it off last night so I went to bed dreaming that a gorilla would go out to the garage and pull it off for me right RICK <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The wheel is being stubborn I couldn't get it off last night so I went to bed dreaming that a gorilla would go out to the garage and pull it off for me right RICK <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

Did you get the nut off?

What I did was first unloosen the nut. I soaked the area where the steering wheel joins the steering column overnight with wd-40 and penetrating oil. I then took a 20 lb hammer hand gave the center column a couple of sharp raps making sure that the nut was protecting the threaded area. Then with the nut still on, but at the end of the thread I grabbed the steering wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and proceeded to alternately pull from each side. It came off real easy doing that. Keeping the nut on prevents you from hitting yourself in the face when the wheel comes off.

Ken,

Yes I did get the nut off. I did screwed it on part way and hit it with a heavy hammer also still did not budge. So it is sitting at home (I did blast it again with WD-40 and PB Blaster before I gave up and went in) waiting for me and my Gorilla to try it again afterwork. I just hope the wheel doesn't snap and break on me. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Tom

Have you had someone gently (but firmly) pull up on the wheel while you rap the shaft?

Hi West,

Problem is I am a one man show. Guess I should call a friend or my brother.

I thought yesterday holding it up in the air (who needs a to workout when you have work like this to do <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />) by the steering wheel and hitting down on nut would do it. But the threads are getting tight now by doing that. So I am leery hitting down on the nut anymore.

Wish I could offer some constructive advice but you're trying about everything we would try except maybe a bit of carefully applied heat, followed by penetrating oil. You don't want to smack on the nut too much or you might deform the threads, leading to bigger problems. Been there done that. Depending on the condition of the wheel you might use a block of wood and a hammer from underneath the wheel. As a last resort you might be able to drill two or three holes into the hub, thread them and use a modern style puller.

Restorer32,

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Depending on the condition of the wheel you might use a block of wood and a hammer from underneath the wheel. </div></div> I tried that last night.

For heat the only type torch I have is one of them small hand held ones. Not sure if that will be enough heat but I will give that a try and will be careful applying the heat.

In the center of the hub there appears to be a big nut that the wheel is form around. Would that be where you suggest tapping and threading if that would be my last resort?

Take the nut off, and put a block of wood over it for tapping. Don't hit the nut anymore. Get your neighgbor over there and have him (her) lift up on the wheel. I think that is the missing link (not your neighbor, the process).

Yes, if that area isn't so hard that you can't drill it. If I remember when I head out this afternoon, I'll take a look at one of the extra columns I have home in the garage. These have wheels in various states of decay, maybe a better idea will suggest itself.

Guys thanks for the help and tips. Things were running smoothly until this snag. I was hoping to get apart Monday night so I could of drop the column and box of at powder coater yesterday.

Restorer32 that is great if you can.

I have pictures from Ken which are very helpful on reassembly of the light switch and throttle lever but I was so wound up I forgot to right down which one goes where. Do you guy know which side of the wheel each lever goes as your sitting in the car.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guys thanks for the help and tips. Things were running smoothly until this snag. I was hoping to get apart Monday night so I could of drop the column and box of at powder coater yesterday.

Restorer32 that is great if you can.

I have pictures from Ken which are very helpful on reassembly of the light switch and throttle lever but I was so wound up I forgot to right down which one goes where. Do you guy know which side of the wheel each lever goes as your sitting in the car. </div></div>

Left is light, right is throttle...at least on a 32.

The motion on tyhe steering is a gentle rocking motion I used. I would not try to hit the back side of the wheel even with wood in fear of damaging it.

Now if you were creative like Speedster, you could make your own steering wheel puller. I've seen diagrams of them where the contraption fits around the back of the steering wheel up. As you tighten down on the shaft, the puller applies even pressure on the back of the steering wheel. I think with wood you could make one fairly easy.

Got it off yet? He's an example of a puller that is used on a Model A ford for which it looks you could build one for a Packard.

Thanks for the link. I should check here before I went at it again. I pulled out my three jaw puller it fit around the hub but guess what it cracked a piece right on top of the outer edge of the hub <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> It is a clean break so looks like out will come the gorilla glue some glazing puddy and paint or I should just purchase the tool you posted and move onto something else.

Restoring the wheel was not in my plans at this stage. Why do these things happen. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Restoring the wheel was not in my plans at this stage. Why do these things happen. </div></div>

It's called the mushroom factor <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Sometimes you just gotta say what the hay.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the link. I should check here before I went at it again. I pulled out my three jaw puller it fit around the hub but guess what it cracked a piece right on top of the outer edge of the hub <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> It is a clean break so looks like out will come the gorilla glue some glazing puddy and paint or I should just purchase the tool you posted and move onto something else.

Restoring the wheel was not in my plans at this stage. Why do these things happen. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

Sorry to hear about the crack. However now is the chance to make the steering wheel perfect. I would think you could construct out of wood and some bolts that would do the same thing.

I took a look at my extra steering columns last night and no brilliant ideas sprang to mind. The wooden puller is worth a try but I don't see how it could exert enough force to break the wheel loose.

Ken,

I hear you on that. But I think this thing was meant to stay on. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> So for now I am will just glue the piece that cracked off and some time down the road I will give it another chance. I have plenty of other work to do. Need to keep moving forward or is it backwards. Seems like the more I do the farther behind I get. Like last night I pulled more of the steering apart tie rods, linkage etc for ease of painting. But I look at it this way may as well do it now. Why go through all this again later on down the road.

I can?t wait until warmer weather so I can at least get the frame painted so I can start reassembling the hardware that attaches to it.

Restorer32,

Thanks for taking a look at your wheel for me.

On my dad's 1930 Packard, the restorer couldn't get the steering wheel off (a nice, sleek, 1931 wheel, by the way). I didn't see it when he had it apart, but I was told that it was welded in place, and would require an immense amount of work to get it off. (Since the steering box includes the ever-so-rare speedster number on it, and the fact that my dad prefers the 1931 wheel over the 1930 wheel (so do I, a lot better), he told him to just leave it on.

I wonder if yours has any evidence of being welded, possibly an ever-so-small tack weld somewhere??? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />