intermitent spark problem

I'm still trouble shootng my 32. The engine stops after a short drive. The first time it happen was on the way to the DMV. Engine kept stopping, but I was able to restart. However once at the DMV I couldn't get it started. Next day after put new plugs in, car started right up. Drove it for 5 miles no problem. The next day drove it about a mile and it died.

I thought we had fixed it yesterday. I had it towed to a shop I know. The engine was cold. We tried to turn it over but it didn't start. We then looked at the spark from the coil and saw none. I tighten up some wires on the coil and we got spark. Engine started right up. Figured it was a loose connection. Today I went out for a short drive, and the motor just quit. Could not see any spark at the spark plug wires. Coil felt warm to the touch. Got towed home. Got out a volt meter and starting to see if I was geting power to the coil. I was. I decided just to try to start it for grins and it kicked right over.

Can coils go bad when they heat up? Any other ideas?

I tried to jiggle the wires to the coil but engine kept running. I thought maybe I had a bad wire.

Tomorrow I plan to get a new coil wire and try that.

Had the same problem some 30 years ago, Change the condenser! They can fail (especially when warmed) and cause this very problem. Coils are normally pretty die hard and they either work or don't. Let us know if that fixes the problem.

I agree, change the condenser.

Coil can exhibit the same characteristics- I would try condenser first.

I've had a temp related bad Coil. I've also had a temp and vibration related problem with a distributor wire, opening connection when hot. (the internal wire to points, which is the ground path for coils secondary winding). It took a lot of time and work to find that one. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

Had similar problem on my car when it was running I found that if I turn the ignition key slightly she would hesitate and stall turn is back some she runs fine. Maybe that could be the cause of your problem too?

OK I will repalce the coil first. These little puppies are not cheap. MAx Merritt wants $95. Is that the going price?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Had similar problem on my car when it was running I found that if I turn the ignition key slightly she would hesitate and stall turn is back some she runs fine. Maybe that could be the cause of your problem too? </div></div>

I tried the key thing when I was waiting for the tow truck. No luck. Next ride I go on I'm going to take some tools and a meter so I can troubleshoot while I'm dead in the water. I'd like to see if I can just run the car in the garage until it fails. Getting towed back is no fun though I'm getting to become an expert in towing this car. The last tow, I was helping the operator so we could get on a move quicker.

You could temporarily wire in a $20. coil, to see if it fixed the problem. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I got a condenser coming in. Half the price of Max Merrit. I also have a used coil coming in.

I've been doing a little thinking. I ran that car with an arcing coil wire as explained in an earlier post. That could have fried the condenser. So the condenser is the first thing I plan to replace.

Take a ohm reading on your coil between the + and - terminals. I believe the resistance should not be over 5 ohms. Check it cold and hot and see if there is a large difference.

I agree with speedster on the coil, use a generac one for time being. I also find a lot of owners here seem to pay vastly inflated prices on parts that can be sometimes substituted with a part working equally well, but at a fraction of the cost with a little research and help from a real autoparts store, you won't get much help from the stores that hire kids to sell parts by computer they just don't have the experience.

I purchased a 6v coil from I believe it was called oldtime auto parts-for less than 20. It was on ebay-but they have a internet store. I was getting spark but it looked "weak". I have also had since then problems with new spark plug wires-which were grounding out.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I agree with speedster on the coil, use a generac one for time being. I also find a lot of owners here seem to pay vastly inflated prices on parts that can be sometimes substituted with a part working equally well, but at a fraction of the cost with a little research and help from a real autoparts store, you won't get much help from the stores that hire kids to sell parts by computer they just don't have the experience. </div></div>

Well the condenser and coil came today. It was the wrong coil. So the plan of attacked is to replace the condenser first and see I I can get it to fail in my garage. At the same time I picked up a 6V coil from NAPA. I plan to wire that in and if it fails, just switch it over the wires to the new coil and see what happens.

Thanks for the guidance.

Well turns out the condenser was different then the one I have on there now. The one I got was rectangular which is like what Max Merritt shows for a 32 Packard. I've got a round one in there now. So did someone put a different distributor in? Any ideas?

Anyway, I wired in a the new 6V coil under the dash and ran the car for a half hour. Also ran the car a few times around the block. Seem to run fine. Now I guess I need to take it for a longer ride and keep my fingers crossed.

Keep us posted on the results. Can't tell you on the dist, before my expertise.

Gary

Tbird,

My '31 has a round condenser in it also.

The coil you picked up at NAPA does that have the key setup on it? If not how will you turn off the power going through it?

You won't find a correct keyed coil at Autozone. Packard NorthEast keyed coils are expensive and difficult to find, with even used ones selling in excess of $100. Last one I sold on e-bay went for $185, as I remember, and its condition was unknown. Any 6 volt coil could be tucked up under the dash and used, with your current coil being rewired to use the keyed head with the new coil. Any 6 volt condenser that will fit into the distributor will work.

I wired the coil by taking the switched 6V to the new coil -lead and then running the +lead to the distributor. If this works, I need to figure how to mount it higher under the dash. It out of sight now unless you get down and look.

I understand that perhaps Desoto 29-30 and Dodge (29-30) may have used the same keyed coil.

Hi Ya:

I have a '53 Pat and at the mention here of KEYED AND/OR UNKEYED coils, I ran out to the garage to see what mine is, and I'll be darned, I guess I don't know what to look for as it looked like any other coil I've ever seen.

Probably not paying enough attention. CAN SOMEONE CLEAR THIS UP FOR ME? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Thanks a lot. The LeRaysville Dude, Jay

With the Keyed-coils, the Ignition Switch and coil are both in one assembly that mounts on back side of dash (with the high-voltage wire from coil, going thru firewall to distributor). Only pre '35 or so Packards had the keyed coils. It was used mainly as an Anti-theft device.

Took the car out for about an hour drive today. Drove in slow traffic and then at higher speeds such as 55. No problem so I hope I have solved the issue. I need to put together a tool kit for this car though.

Great, You and that Tow-truck driver were seeing each other, way too Often. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

My old shop manual for Oakland-Pontiac 1930-31-32 has a picture of of what sounds like the same coil-key you are talking about. Below is a paragraph from those 10 pages about the ignition. Quote as follows;

The ignition switch is also installed as an integral part of this coil. The barrel on the locking device cannot be removed after once being inserted in the coil. These coils cannot be repaired and should never be tampered with.

Since this is a GM product I am wondering if yours is a DELCO and if a lot of older cars made by GM or cars made with DELCO coils at that time were the same? If you haven?t been able to fix it permanently would a picture of it help you? The picture is small but I may be able to place it on this message. If you think it would help you.

It does sound as if the replacement of the condenser (capacitor) would be first on the list.

Yours M.L. Anderson