b6vt Posted February 19, 2006 Share Posted February 19, 2006 I have recently purchased a 1948 LC Coupe. I am not able to start the engine (V12). The previous owner had an 8 volt battery in the car and I am wondering if the extra voltage fried the Ignition resister which reduces the voltage to the distributer or fried the coil. Where is this resister, under the dash or on the firewall--I have been unable to locate it. Before I bought the car a mechanic who was assisting the lady selling the car out of the estate jumped thesystem by clipping a wire directly from the battery to the coil. I read where this system is awfully sensitive to higher voltage. Is this an expensive fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peecher Posted February 20, 2006 Share Posted February 20, 2006 My guess is that the 8 volts didn't hurt your resistor(s). Your resistor block for the ignition is located on the firewall behind the dash directly above the accelerator pedal. If I were you I would send your distributor and coil to Jake Fleming for a thorough check up. The extra voltage could over time burn up the points and the coil could also be weak along with the condensors. He can get all that system up to snuff. You can check continuity thru your resistors by disconnecting the two ignition wires at the coil, pull on your ignition switch and check the voltage at the two wires. They should read battery voltage. With the ignition wires reconnected to the coil the reduced voltage only occurs when the points make contact and should be approximately 3 volts ( with a 6 volt battery) at the coil connection when the wires are reconnected and the points are "closed". Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
materal Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Are the ignition block resistors in the same place for all Zephyr's of the period? I'd like to investigate this issue on my 40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peecher Posted March 6, 2006 Share Posted March 6, 2006 Yes, that is where they are located. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b6vt Posted March 11, 2006 Author Share Posted March 11, 2006 Thank you for your reply on this issue--I am becoming more informed in the use of this forum. It is great to have a source for this accumulated knowledge.b6vt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b6vt Posted March 20, 2006 Author Share Posted March 20, 2006 Thank you for the response "Peecher". You have given me a place to start. I did as you suggested and turned the ignition switch to the "on" position--opposite the position where the key may be pulled out of the ignition lock--this is another problem for another day. I placed the volt ohm meter in placeto check for any current flow and nothing. I checked the battery to make sure it was charged and hooked up correctly. The battery had a good charge but someone had hooked it up in reverse order--negative grnd-- I corrected thisbut still no meter response. I chkd if the lights would come one. negative. I am really at a loss. The previous owner had removed the radio to have itrepaired. I looked under the dash there were several wires disconnected other than those for the radio, I hooked these back up but to no result. What are your thoughts? Where do I go from here? b6vt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peecher Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 If nothing "electrical" is working, I would check to see if the main feed wire(s) are connected with the positive battery cable at the starter relay. These wires feed power to all the various components including the lights, ignition switch etc. If these wires are connected then I would check the large #10 wire that threads thru the hoop on the ammeter. It might be broken or disconnected at the ignition switch terminal. Good luck. Dee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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