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Don't know what I've got. 1946 Chrysler Windsor 2 Door HardTop


gdtractor

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BVR

... I can't seem to get the shifter to go into "nuetral" .. [it is in the drive position]. I don't want to force it -- so I think I will jack [and block] the back wheels off the ground [actually I am trying to get it into nuetral so I can move it off the trailer. And then eventually try to start it.] --- so I can "toggle" the shifter slightly .. if you know what I mean .. to see if I can get it into nuetral.

When I do get ready to try and see if the starter will turn it over -- it is 6 volts isn't it and it has a positive ground?

Any comments or ideas -- welcome !!

Thanks

Gary

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Guest De Soto Frank

6-volt, positive-ground.

You don't absolutely need to take it out of gear to move it off the trailer; just release the e-brake and push/pull the car: the fluid-coupling will allow the car to move (there's no parking pawl inside the transmission, even on MoPar automatics until the mid 1960's <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> )

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Thanks -- I will check the e-brake - hope the brakes aren't stuck .. but wouldn't don't it.. .. we just got back from vacation and back to work .. and it is still cold out [but I am getting an-zy] ...

Just curious - I am assuming it has to be in "nuetral" position to start?

thx

Gary

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Guest imported_BaronvonR

As long as the clutch is depressed you should be able to start in in any position....sometimes I have forgotten to do this and I have started the car when it was in gear....it just lurched a bit, but no harm done.

As DeSoto Frank said...definately POSITIVE ground.

Before you try and move the car you may want to jack each wheel up, if possible to see if they turn, before you go to the trouble of trying to move it off of the trailer...just a thought.

BvR

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Guest De Soto Frank

I don't know if there was a neutral-safety switch on the Fluid-Torques... there was none on the earlier semi-autos.

By the way, the parking-brake on pre-1960's MoPars works on a drum on the back of the transmission...

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Frank and all --

.. jacked the rear-end up and turned the back wheels - both ways .. turned free .. to the tranny -- but I still couldn't get it into nuetral.

I tried to move the linkage on the left rear side of engine - on transmission.

I moved them some .. don't really know if the clutch is working or not .. but the shifter inside is still "frozen" ...

I was afraid I would break off the shifter ..

Saw the "drum" on the back of the tranny .. the parking brake is definitely not on.

Going to wait til one of my boys are over and see if while they move the wheels back and forth .. I will try and move it out of "D" ....

Any suggestions ..

Thanks guys

Gary

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Guest De Soto Frank

Well, I think at this point, I would disconnect the shifter rod from the lever on the side of the tranny, and see if it is the column linkage that is bound-up or the parts inside the tranny (try moving the lever)...

Do you know whether the vehicle was driveable when it was parked?

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No .. I don't know .. but I may just find out ..

Sounds like a good idea .. to unhook the shifter .. will do this weekend.

I could move the linkage to the tranny pretty well -- so it doesn't seem to be bound inside .. I just am not sure what position puts it into nuetral .. but I will do the only thing I can do ... KEEP TRYING !! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks much ..

Have a great week ..

Gary

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guys ..

question:

What would it take to take the body off the frame [leaving engine/tranny etc]?

More time than it's worth?

The inside is trashed ... and will have to be basically replaced ..

the dash is actually "unhooked" now ..

I understand I would have to take the fenders, hood, trunk, [don't know if the back fenders would come off] ...

I thought I could actually work on the engine - etc . everything better and the body work would be easier too

What do you think? [please]

GED

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Guest imported_BaronvonR

Removing the whole front clip would make the engine work that much easier...the thing is what condition the mounting bolts are in...if they are rusted it can turn into a real project just getting all of the parts off...then making sure you dont misplace any....I have never removed a body from the frame before...I just worked around it, figuring that what was intact I would leave alone....

So really its your call...all of the "complete" restorations seem to have the "frame off" approach...mine I just did nicely so I can drive it and enjoy it....I didnt want to obsess tooooo much <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

BvR

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys ..

Well .. I am not sure .. I am going to do this but I am considering NOT restoring the Chrysler.

It is just a over my head -- financially and experience wise too ..

I am not a mechanic at all and am really limited for tools ..

I REALLY wanted a Vintage car .. but I think I better get one that at least runs and only needs surface repairs ..

I am "thinking" -- still just "thinking" of really cleaning up this car ... and selling it .. but don't know where in the world I would advertise it?

Any suggestions ?

Throwing in the towel in Michigan [kinda, until I find something I can manage, and I guarantee I will be looking!!).

Gary

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Guest imported_BaronvonR

The most reliable places to sell a vintage car like this would be the club newsletter...WPC News, or Hemmings or one of the other publications or you can try Ebay.

BvR

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  • 3 weeks later...

BVR and all ..

..well I am back to square one -- and GLAD !!

I really didn't want to get rid of the car --- but thought it was over my head.

I couldn't get much out of it on ebay SO I didn't sell it ..

and now I am really glad ... I am going to TRY to fix it up

always wanted an old car --- anyway .. not much invested so .. I am going to give a try ---

and if the engine happens to be bad -- I am going to put a good Ford 361 engine and tranny from a large truck that I have [it runs good].

These numbers are stamped on the engine of the 53 Chrysler ;

On the engine by the generator I found these #'s 053 - 21501

[and it says "SPIT FIRE" cast in - on top of the flathead]

Does this mean something specific?

I am thinking of taking the radiator out and the front piece that the radiator is attached to and pulling the engine --- then I have all the room I want to work on it .. doesn't look as complicated as the new engines [although this type of thing is always a challenge] ..

Gary

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  • 2 years later...
Guest 1953 C60-2

Get a '53 shop manual. It will tell you how to remove the entire front sheet metal and hood as one piece. This will expose the entire engine compartment and make everything easier to work on.

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