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1911 Buick model 14


Guest Joe Kieliszek

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  • 3 months later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

HPIM0173.jpg

 

Currently turning the axle spindles to accept Timken bearings; the
spindles were bent about .070 off the axle centerline and had to
be straightened before turning..
Thanks,
Joe  :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Picture%20001.jpg

 

Shown are the old ball style wheel bearings on the left wheel;
the wheel to the right has been sleeved front and back for tapered
bearings with new seals on inboard bearing side. I'm machining
sleeves from pre-heat treated steel with an .001 interference
fit..
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 2 months later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Buick%2014%20rear%20wheel.jpg
next project was checking the runout of the brake drums; one wheel
gave me trouble as its center hub had been welded up and the locating
diameter for the brake drum wasn't running concentric with the bearings.
I ended up boring the locating hole of the drum and sleeving it.
Joe  :)

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  • 7 months later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20transmission%20gear.jpg

 

Working on the transmission; cutting new gear teeth on a reworked
double gear shaft. 2 of the original gears were pretty chewed up...

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20transmission%20gear%20001.j

 

This gear was a little trickier; it has a 17 tooth internal gear which acts as a
spline to lock up with the driven side of the clutch for high gear. I first roughed
out the teeth by drilling and milling the tooth cavities before using a hand ground
tool with the tooth profile to broach the finish shape of the sides & outer edge.
It took a couple of additional passes around before the gear fit freely into the
clutch gear on all the teeth...
Thanks,
Joe  :)

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Hi John,
No, just worked in a lot of different general machining job shops. What
you don't learn from trial and error is all in Machinery's Handbook..
Thanks,
Joe  :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20gearbox.jpg

 

Everything fits even with the two gears "growing" slightly from the
flame hardening of their teeth. Also new is a screw in bearing carrier
for the pinion gear (bottom). I ended up using a Timken tapered bearing
with a needle thrust bearing behind it to replace the obsolete ball
bearing on the pinion gear.
Now on to the clutch and torque tube side of the tranny....
Thanks,
Joe  :)

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Model 14 clutches are prone to "sticking" when engaged- so much that later
versions (including mine) have a spring loaded plunger which contacts the
side of the clutch unit to stop rotation.
So on the advise of another model 14 owner, I bought a "jackrabbit" clutch
disk set sold by a model T supplier. The disks are covered with a friction
material (on right) versus the old bronze disks to the left.
Model%2014%20clutch%20disk%20drum.jpg

The old disk drum had to be turned down by about .270" and the slots
milled back in to accomodate the smaller model T disks; also the O.D. of
the new disks had to be reduced by an eigth of an inch to clear the bolts
that hold the assembly together....
Thanks,
Joe  :)

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  • 2 months later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Buick%20model%2014%20frame%20002.jpg

 

Painted frame; I built a support frame around it to rotate the
piece while sanding and painting.
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Joe,

I am a new member to the discussion forum, based near Dublin, Southern Ireland, I have the task of rebuilding a 1908 Buick (we think?)there will be many questions that I could do with answers to and judging by your experience you probably can supply the info?

Looking at what you have already done the engineering quality looks fantastic, I only hope I can come near it.

Most of the car is there but the outer clutch to gearbox drive unit and the flywheel square drive is missing and I have no idea what they look like to show the seller of the car what I am after.

Do you have any images of these items please?

Regards

Ian Anderson

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Spicer%20universal%20joint%20Model%2014%
Hi Ian,
Shown is a Spicer universal joint I replicated a few years back
(on right). I was fortunate that the original on left was included with the car. The square socket on the end of the yoke
often gets chewed out.
Thanks,
Joe

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Hello Ian,

No photos of it on hand, but the original drive end is around 4-3/4" long. It is made from 1-3/8" diameter steel with a 1-1/8" square milled back about 4 inches. The center hole is 7/8" inside diameter with a 3/16" (I believe) drive key in line with a corner square. Make the lengths longer; they can always be cut back if need be....

Thanks, Joe

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Hi Joe,

Many thanks for the info, I will get a drawing done and sent the the machine shop.

Would you be able to tell me if you know of anyone who has a clutch cover + plates or complete assembly for sale?

As this part is missing I would like to modify it as per your clutch.

Regards

Ian

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  • 1 month later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

PittmanarmradiusrodarmModel14Buick.jpg

I was able to restore the diameters of the linkage balls of

both the radius rod arm (above) and the pittman arm (below)

minus .020". With a short bar of steel (at left)and a tube

of valve grinding compound, I hand lapped the link balls to an

even size (whithin .0015" on the diameter).

The bar has a 15/16" drilled hole in the end with tapered bore

out to the largest diameter of the link ball.

It takes a while; about .002 to .003" per hour by hand. It is

faster with the tool in the lathe, but leaves scratches in the

steel...

Thanks,

Joe

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  • 1 month later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Thanks Stevo,

Just trying to find a web hosting site on which my uploaded

photos don't look like they have 1/8" inch of grease smeared

over them....

Joe

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Schebler%20float%20oil%20die%20001.jpg

Out of frustration with trying to seal a cork carburetor
float, I machined a die to hydroform two halves of a float
from .005" thick brass shim stock.
I found that I needed to limit the travel of the brass whithin
the die cavity between drawing and annealing of the blank;
shown to each side are inserts made from 5 minute epoxy which
fit whithin the steel die cavity.
The upper half of the float has a threaded brass lug (4-40 tap
with a blind hole) for attachment to the float arm.
I tried out the float in dad's model 10 Buick- so far no
leaks!...
Thanks,
Joe

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Schebler%20float%20level%20testing.jpg

 

Arrangement for checking fuel level in float bowl;
It turns out the brass float is too bouyant- a different
float arm will have to be fabricated to raise the fuel level
at least 3/8" of an inch to avoid starving out on hills...
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20steering%20box%20gear.jpg

 

The center five teeth of the bronze segment gear on the
steering box had quite a bit of wear; I was able to silver
solder the top half of the worn teeth. I then re-faced the
gear in the lathe and cut all the teeth .070" of an inch
deeper. I used the good profile teeth at each end for grinding
a fly cutting tool as well as figuring out tooth spacing..
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 5 months later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20Buick%20steering%20wheel.jp[

 

It fits!
I was tickled pink today that I was able to cold bend my
brass steering wheel spider in the arbor press (between wood
blocks); still a little scary though...
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 1 month later...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20spring%20snubber.jpg[

 

 

Making neoprene spring snubbers for the leaf springs. I was
able to "machine" a square pocket in the rubber using a flexible shaft Dremel grinder mounted to the Bridgeport
spindle. The small center hole in the neoprene material was opened up with a 1 3/8" hole saw in the lathe (drilling half way from each end). The rubber cuts off easily in the bandsaw
and the ends are squared up on a bench mounted belt sander...
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20gas%20tank.jpg

Pressure testing for leaks at 4 p.s.i.; the only ones found were around the filler cap neck
which were easily soldered. I made a cap out of delrin plastic with an o-ring at the base
of the threads and tapped hole for the guage.
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Joe Kieliszek

Model%2014%20wheels%20amp%20tires.jpg

 

Tires mounted on painted wheels- they slid on easily with handsoap about
the bead. Many thanks to Greg Fish in obtaining a positive I.D. on the dark
green used on the body, fenders & wheels of his late father's model 14 Buick.
Thanks,
Joe

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  • 2 months later...
Guest Joe Kieliszek

Hello,
Making progress on assembly work; I set the motor in this week (minus the
flywheel). I can now center up the driveshaft/transaxle to the flywheel
mounting flange via the u-joint (not pictured).
I had a local boat top and tarp maker sew up a set of tire bags with velcro
straps; I'll be able to move the chassis around without scruffing up
the grey tires..
Thanks,
Joe
 

Model%2014%20frame%20amp%20motor%20002.j

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  • 2 months later...
Guest Joe Kieliszek

I've been sidetracked with a tedius but interesting project -replicating the
early style of drive chain used on the Model 14. One of the chains on my car
was old enough that it still had individual cotter pins on each of the connecting
pins between links (on one side of the chain only). The other end of the pins
has a low round head.
So I bought 2 ten foot lengths of number 60 drive chain; modern chain is
dimensionally identical to the old stuff. Using a chain breaker, I took apart
150 inches worth of connecting and roller links. Using carbide end mills, the
holes in these were drilled out to slightly under 1/4" (they were 6 mm).
I bought 200 hardened 1/4 inch clevis pins from Mc Master-Carr. These were
each drilled with a 1/16 carbide straight flute bit at the cotter pin location.
The clevis pin heads were then rounded off in the lathe (a lot of sharpening
of the carbide tool bits). The pins were sanded to length and champhered.
Then just add 200 cotter pins and you are ready to assemble...

Model%2014%20drive%20chains%20001.jpg
 

 

Model%2014%20drive%20chains%20002.jpg

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Guest Joe Kieliszek

Hi Derek,

Thanks; now I'm hoping that the chains will have the proper tension around

the sprockets. I'd hate to readjust the freshly painted drag link rods between

the drive and trail axles...

They looked as if their settings have never been tampered with.

Thanks,

Joe :rolleyes:

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