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Rebuilding Packard Engines


Guest Rojo22

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Guest Rojo22

Hello everyone. I havent been on the forums in about two years and I am glad to see that the Packard folks are still active. I need help and advice from the experts. Here is the scenario:

1. I have purchased a 1955 Packard Clipper (Four Door)

2. I have ZERO experience doing engine work

3. I love working, and dependable equipment, and I am very safety concious

4. I dont want to put a "mouse" under the hood ( I live too close to AlK, and he can hunt me down...LOL)

5. I would like to put the original engine back in the car (it is removed)

6. I have plenty of 1955 core engines laying around for parts

7. I am not a rich guy

So my fear is doing something stupid or expensive, or both. I dont know if taking a Packard engine to a rebuilder in my home town (Atlanta, GA) is the right thing to do, because I am not sure about placing the engine in someones hands who says there isnt much difference between doing any other type of engine. I would also like to get some advice on other things to do during the engine rebuild that would be a good idea while I have the engine out of the car. I am not the thin skinned sensitive type, and I certainly dont mind being talked down too....So please start with the basics, because it is what I am looking for.

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Guest Randy Berger

ROJO22, First welcome back, glad to have you. Any friend of Al's can't be all bad.

No one is going to talk down to you for legitimate questions. You should probably talk to any rebuilder and ask him his opinions. If he won't take time to discuss it with you, he probably wouldn't take the time to rebuild it right.

Does he have facilities to boil out the block.

Ask about putting in all new valves with hardened valve seats.

Does he check the tension in all the valve springs.

If you have later engines for parts, use the rockers and shafts from a 56 V8.

Have the block itself checked for being true.

Had a friend in Buffalo whose rebuilt engine had the pistons/rods installed on the wrong side of the engine - A Ford mechanic who "knew how to rebuild an engine".

Buy a shop manual, copy the pages on the engine and give them to the rebuilder.

Have the oil pump rebuilt! A necessity. search here for oil pump discussions.

Others here will give even better advice.

Let us know how you are progressing.

YFAM, Randy Berger

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Guest Rojo22

Thanks for the information Randy. I will definitely look at the hardened valve seats. I am guessing that the hardened valve seats address the no lead gasoline issue?? Does anyone have experience with what is the best approach to the rebuild. Specifically about boring, balancing, piston and other stuff being replaced with a specific diameter, or even brand name parts????

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the information Randy. I will definitely look at the hardened valve seats. I am guessing that the hardened valve seats address the no lead gasoline issue??</div></div>

Yes.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Does anyone have experience with what is the best approach to the rebuild. Specifically about boring, balancing, piston and other stuff being replaced with a specific diameter, or even brand name parts???? </div></div>

You should be able to overbore up to 1/8", but sonic test to be sure. If you pick a "standard" Chevy or Ford final bore size, then you can use rings for that application. Custom forged pistons would also then be little problem, with just the pin height being custom. I got a set from Ross Forged pistons at 4.125 (352CID+0.125) that were reasonably priced. In any case, balance the entire assembly.

The big problem is bearing availability. Check the usual suspects and get the bearings first. 0.010 oversize are N/A, it appears. There is no interchange on crank or rod bearings that I have ever found.

Good luck and keep us informed.

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What would everyone recommend on the approach to the boring of the engine and piston replacement? Is there an advantage to any sizes for boring, and the selection of piston parts? Anyone had any success with specific combinations, or more importantly any bad experiences with combinations? I really need some help here.

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You can get pretty much any ring you need from sealed power. Get whatever pistons you're going to use and measure ring sizes. They have a catalog with sizes. You may have to file end gap or something but that's ordinary.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What would everyone recommend on the approach to the boring of the engine and piston replacement? Is there an advantage to any sizes for boring, and the selection of piston parts? (snip)</div></div>

This is the same question I answered above in a general fashion. To be specific: your 1955 Clipper has a 320CID V-8, which has a stock bore of 3.817". A Chevy small block 283CID has a bore of 3.870". If you overbored your Packard +.063" to 3.880", it would be the same as a Chevy 283+.010". [color:"red"] OR, you could overbore +.083" to be the same as a Chevy 283+.030", a very common size. In any case, you'll have to have the pistons custom made, but at least you can use std ring sizes.

As far as ring widths are concerned, Packard used 5/64" top, 5/64" 2nd and 3/16" oil. The piston manufacturer will know what the 283 SBC stock ring widths are (they may or may not be these sizes, but 350 SBC are), so use what is commonly available.

As far as ring material, use a "moly" top ring, a cast iron 2nd ring and stock tension oil ring. The cylinder bore finish will have to match the ring choice, but the machine shop will be able to provide this.

If I were you, I would avoid cast reproduction pistons (like Egge), as they won't stand up to any kind of heavy-duty or performance use. Why don't you call Ross pistons and talk to one of their tech guys? You may have to provide a sample used piston, so they can verify pin height, pin boss width, etc. You won't have to worry about valve notch location or angle, all you need is a flat top piston.

Ross Racing Pistons

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