At a gain with V12

Testing, Testing, 1,2,3, wha wha this thing on? Testing

got a hunch your starting problems are over, those 5EH drives have been troublesome for others too, good to know replacements are available, Rolf

spins good, coughs good and fired to life. Fuel pump not pumping, hotwired ignition, used 12 volts BUT IT RUNS and sounds pretty good for the short test run.

Now, send ignition off to Jake, get a fuel pump rebuild kit or diaphram, carberator rebuild kit, dress it out and put it all back together.

IT RUNS!!!

Mount up the radiator and cooling system, engine fan, thermostats, rewire the engine compartment and detail it out a bit.

Oh by the way, IT RUNS!!!

turns ok with 6 volts but really well with 12. Fuel pump rod was sticking, it goes up and down now but pump doesn't have alot of suck and push to it so I should rebuild it I think.

The problem was the starter drive. The body of the old drive hit the flywheel-wrong drive!

IT RUNS!! exhaust leaks and all!

OK Dave, that is very good, and you have progressed through the easy part of the exercise, now we need to know about smoke, oil pressure, noisy valve lifters, and oil leaks, I am a big proponent of a compression check on all 12 cylinders too, tells you a whole bunch, Rolf

I'll see what I can do Rolf, and thanks for the hearty congrats.

Noise sounded good, oil pressure? there is supposed to be oil pressure? Smoke?

Only ran the thing for about 30 seconds, what with pouring gas down it's throat and slapping on the back and all. Geeeeeeeeeez.

No oil leaks, of course that would require oil in the crankcase I suppose.

I'm just pleased that the starter problem seems to be solved and I can see you are overjoyed as well.

Dear Dave,Ole O.C. has his moments,his heart is ALWAYS in the right place.For the most part if you pay attention you might just learn something and it might have something to do with a V-12.As for oil pressure and smoke probably gonna be a lot of some and not much of another,or it could be the other way around,we will keep our fingers crossed.diz

Dizz, to tell you the truth I didn't have enough hands eyes and feet to observe oil pressure. My original intent which seems like eons ago, was to remove the plug in the oil galley below the oil filter feed line and install a manual guage there so it could be observed while at the engine bay. The plug had other plans and being removed was not part of them. no loud clanking however, that might be a good sign huh?

Dave

I guess I don't know very much about east coast Continentals, out here, in la la land, we merely look at the oil pressure guage for a moment when the engine is running, and all is revealed, but maybe you can call in a team of engineers with special equipment, and they can figure it out for your unique car, good luck, Rolf

Rolf,

The oil pressure guage on this particular car is located inside the car. I was lurking outside near the spot where fuel needed to be poured into the carberetor will using my remote starter button and adjusting the choke and throttle levels. Please refer to prior posts noting that the fuel pump is inoperative. If I had a team of engineers available to me then yes one could be assigned the task to sit in the car and view the guage. In fact if I had but just one lowly smart ass available, I could assign Him that task as well. Sadly I did not have that luxury nor the inclination of sitting back and throwing rocks or making sarcastic remarks or preaching from a mount (Florida doesn't have mounts, very flat terrain). It would be nice to be all knowing and all seeing, but I am just a lowly streetrodder and apprentice restorer as it were, not someone who professes to know everything about everything Lincoln and who has owned over 40 V12's, fixing unknown engine maladies by reving them up until they backfire and belch smoke. Such technical expertise is not in my toolbox as yet and probably never will be. Please feel free to advise placement of a series of mirrors, so that I may view guages and even exhaust smoke while leaning over the fender doing two or four things at once. I will record the oil pressure while the engine is cranking over on 12 volts and I am sitting inside the cabin area.

[not a quote]Well, nice going Dave, glad you got that starter drive and slow cranking problem behind you. Be sure to check the ____________ and the ____________ as I have found those to be problem areas in the past with these V12's. The best way to check these is ___________and __________. Please post the results of these checks and tests here where we can view and advise. I have many years experience with these engines and will be glad to share my experiences with you and all who share the love of this hobby. Good luck, and hang in there. R____.[not a quote]

I thought this forum was a forum for those interested in exchanging information.... (see top of page). If not I will keep my highs and lows to myself as well as my progress with the restoration and preservation of my Lincoln automobile.

Sincerly, David

Hey Dave, please excuse my lame attempt at humor, had no intention of offending you, and I will not comment further at the risk of it being found out that I indeed do not know "it all", or even close, again, sorry, goodbye

Okay Boys,Time to call a TRUCE,NOBODY on this forum professes to be Albert Einstein or Harry Houdini.Just a bunch foolin around with some V-12 powered iron tryin to make it a little better than what we started with.Lookin at the big picture not too many interested in this stuff,so lets TRY to be a little more tolerant of each other.diz

I for one am going to be pulling the cad engine shortly and reinstalling the v-12 the info here and the funning around go hand in hand to keep me interested,and motivated. KEEP the info coming SOOON you can learn from my mistakes tooooo. ricko

RICKO, What you got and what you doing to it?

Never mind the banter. I get mad at Rolf every couple of weeks or months, pay no attention. Dave

Ricko, Cad engine huh? I too have a Cad engine in my '41. A year ago I put the questiion about so many conversions to Cad engines to this forum and Rolf gave me some interesting history. Someday I too hope to convert back, but for now the wallets a little thin. Looking forward to your posts.

I have a 1942 3 window or is it widow coupe. Interior is all original 2 small rips but fading. the v-12 is in a crate in ????? state. restoring for my pleasure and driving. staying original as far as i can afford.

see pic

Wow. deja vue all over again. Only on mine, the butcher cut the inside passenger fender to accomodate the 12 v battery. Fairly rare car. Short production year 'cause of the war ( the one in all the papers) How many 3 window coupes did they make that year? Do you have the opional jump seats, or the large packing shelf.? Would like to see other photos if possible.

Dave, To get back to the main subject( starting your V 12) What else was wrong with it besides the starter drive and fuel pump? You stated that you had no spark but never stated a cure or cause. Don't keep us in suspense, we might be trying to start our own V 12 and need to know where to look.

Bill

starter--drive, fuel pump the rod was sticking, and I believe the diaphram is probably shot. The spark problem was cured when I took of the coil and looked down to see that the drivers side cap was cocked and not in its slot and groove as it were. turned it to give it somewhat of a chance of making an arc with the rotor, applied 12 volts for as much spark as I could coax out of it and it worked. I am sending the dist and coil out to Jake Fleming when I can remember to give him a call during the day. Might even send 2 each depending on how much He charges. Have fuel pump kit, carb kit and new starter button on their way from Alan Whelihan from whom I got front motor mounts before. Trying to decide if I should send water pumps off to Skip here in Florida for the $200 offer Rolf mentioned. money money money. boy am I glad I'm rich. I'd sure hate to do this if I wasn't independantly wealthy!

Dave, Thanks. Remember gas and spark at the correct time and any engine will start. (Sooner or later) Usually There is no big serious problem, just a lot of little piddling problems. You can get a rebuilt fuel pump from NAPA for under $50. Just ask for a 46- 48 Ford pump and your local store can have it for you the next day if not that afternoon. It seems that flathead Fords are still in use as Industrial engines and on farms as irrigation pumps and such and a need for common tuneup parts still exists.

Bill

Thanks Bill, $15.00 for f/p kit (probably diaphram) and I only pay myself $0.75 per hour so that's the better deal.

Just don't tell me that I work too cheap or I might catch on and ask for more money!

Dave

O.K. heres the update. Got the V12 purring like a kitten after sending dist to Jake and water pumps to Skip. Put coolant in today and ran for quite a while EXCEPT (there's alwas one of those) the fuel pump doesn't always want to co-operate. Running out of a gas can on the floor and priming the carb by filling the bowl thru the vent tube, sometime it picked up fuel from can sometimes not. Took pump off and line at carb, put the pushrod in pump and pumped a squirt six feet across the bow. Put rod back in engine, put pressure on top with my finger, turned the engine over and rod goes up - rod goes down. Rebuilt the pump, not much to it so I don't think I screwed that up. Putting fuel in tank and will attempt to run engine long enough to pull fuel thru. Am I missing something you think?

Hey, even remembered to polarize the generator and the dash gauge says it be a charging!

Dave

Hey Dave, those flex lines can have a miniscule hole in them and cause that problem, remove it, blow through it with your finger over one end, and make sure there is no leakage, they won't work if there is, Rolf

Dear Dave,I would take a blow gun and blow back through the hose connected at the pump to the tank.Take the gas cap off and get another set of ears to listen for some bubbling in the tank.As Rolf advised check the rubber hose and the entire length of fuel pipe from the tank to the rubber hose.Also check the length of the fuel pump push rod,does not to be worn much to not allow the pump to have the full stroke.I have a new one at the garage and will check the length.diz

Dear Dave,Looks like the rod is 8 15/16 long.If yours is worn i have heard of some road side repairs of a piece of tin or leather on the fuel pump end to increase the stroke.New pump rod is available from Earle Brown,real nice piece,NOT from south of the border.diz

O.K., rod was 8 13/16. didn't seem that bad, still no fuel pulling thru. Changed in line filter when I found out there was one, pulled the lines and blew them out again, nada. Made a rod out of some cold roll round stock I had laying around 8 31/32, still nada. Pulled the fuel tank Yuck! it had varnished up soooo bad the pick up tube is stuffed solid, soaked with brake clean, carb cleaner, ran baling wire to within 1 inch of breaking thru, will continue tommorrow, then figure out what to do or who to do it -- clean the tank.

Scale and junk. I was told tank had been drained and had preserve additive added to avoid this problem. Wrong, poured out my three gallons of fresh gas that had turned to nasty chocolate milk didn't drink any tho. More later!Dave