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How to remove lever-action shocks on a '53?


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I need to remove the front shock absorbers for rebuilding on my '53 Roadmaster. I have never done this before, and would appreciate any advice on how to do it. Do I need any special tools, such as a spring compressor (which I do not have)? Does the car need to be in the air or sitting with its weight on the spring?

I'm planning to drive this car to Flint next month, and this is just about the last step to make it roadworthy. Thanks in advance for any help.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Ector, Texas

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just use a floor jack. raise the car by the hub to compress the spring. remove the three bolts from the top of the shock, which you can see front under the hood.

then remove the eccentric bolt at the top of the a-arm. to do this, remove the grease caps, and stick an Alan wrench down the hole of the a-arm, and crank the eccentric bolt out. this will free the whole shock. leave the car on the jack, so you don't dislodge the spring.

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Guest 53and61

If memory serves, one of the bolts is in the middle of the spring and points upward into the body of the shock. You get to it from the bottom with a long extension up through the spring.

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You will also have to have the wheel alignment checked when you are done. Replacing the front lever shocks, which also serve as the upper suspension A-frames will change the camber and caster unless you are really lucky. And, even then, you wouldn't know you were lucky without checking alignment. There has been considerable discussion on this forum about someone wanting to get the alignment checked on a '53 and how his local Buick dealer wouldn't take the job. You might want to read the story and the responses. Good luck.

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Be one the safe side, rent or borrow a spring compressor. You wil have to locate a compressor that fits inside of the spring, the new ones compress the spring on the outside and will not work. First remove the bolt from the center of the shock from inside the spring. Then compress the spring, if you have a hydraulic jack under the lower A arm, let the jack down slowly and the spring will fall out, no chance of it flying around and breaking something especially you.

Good luck

JIm Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

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Guest Teamsterdug

Lets not forget one very important thing...we are assuming that the engine is still in the car??? The weight of the engine makes it a lot easier to accomplish by offering apposing weight when jacking from underneath.

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I think it's funny how all of us internet mechanics love to give free advise from our key boards without getting our hands dirty! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

we are "virtual auto restorers".

we sit on our asses and read about the car getting finished!

I think I like it...! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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WOW! 'Great Minds' think alike! I had 'new' 1953 Lever-Action Shocks on my 1953 Roadmaster with the help of Don Holdmeyer from the KC BCA Chapter. He is restoring TWO 1953s and am I --LUCKY-- to have him in Kansas City! I watched and learned from removal to installation. It is NOT easy as a previous post stated and if that spring lets loose you can forget "Flint" ('widow-maker' if you catch my drift).

I want to take this time to thank RALPH CRISP (BCA) of Omaha who gave me a GREAT deal on the shocks! They looked like NOS when I opened the box! You all can talk to him at the Swap Meet in Flint.

Best thing I ever did was join the BCA and KC BCA Chapter when I got this car!

The members share their knowledge and pitch in to help and I can't say enough about you all!!! I want to gain as much knowledge so I can pass it on when my time comes.

"ANNIE" is itching to hit the road and head North to Flint!

<img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

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  • 19 years later...

What is the purpose of removing? If they are “soft” add some light oil like motorcycle fork oil to them. Work them up and down a time or two and check oil level and add more oil if necessary. Can’t remember exactly the steps to actually remove the shock. First I would remove the linkage from the arm. Then the shock body unbolts to the frame. Writing from memory but believe this should be close to procedure for removal.

 

Gary

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