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Engine dies after 1st start


Guest blazer1997

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Guest imported_blazer1997

Need information on where to look for this problem. Checked the 89 manual, and post but didn't see my problem.

Vehicle is garaged all the time. The first start-up after 5 sec the engine will die. The 2nd start everything is ok no problems with performance.

Items replaced plugs,oxygen sensor, plug wires. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> 132,000 miles.

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Certainly sounds like it runs out of gas - does it do the same thing if left sitting for a couple of days ?

As usual not at home but remember a TSB on the hard starting issue. Had to do with an low priming injector shot. It suggested cranking for a few seconds, turning all the way off, then cranking again. If starts OK the second time I think it said to replace the PROM.

As mentioned it also would not hurt to check the fuel pressure: a failing (slow starting) pump could cause also.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest cdoersom

I have this same problem - replaced all the same items, plus idle air valve, electronic ignition module, fuel filter. Checked resistance of ignition coils - in spec. Did not check fuel pressure, but it stalls even if you let key on for a while before starting.

A new prom was mentioned. I called local dealer - they show no upgrade to original prom (ASSU1302). Does anyone know the partnumber of the upgrade prom that has the fix that Padgett mentioned? Or if someone has the binary file of the upgrade, I have a prom burner and could burn my own prom if they would e-mail it to me.

Thanks,

Chuck

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Guest imported_Flash

I debated on whether to add my 2 cents, mainly because I'm not sure that my engine dying problem is the same. In my case, it only happens when cold, like 1st thing in the morning or after work. Never after driving, stopping, restarting. It only happens during extremely short warmups and at the engagement of the transmission, placing a load on the engine. The car shakes as the engine tries to run and the engine quits. Restarting the engine has never produced a repeat. My solutions to this are as follows, 1) I swithced to a semi-synthetic motor oil (Valvoline Durablend). 2) I get regular tune ups. 3) If I'm in a rush to start driving without a 30 sec engine warm-up, I will quickly depress and quickly release the accelerator (like setting the choke on an old chevy rochester carburetor).[or]4) Allow the engine to warm up for 30-40 seconds before engaging the transmission. Doing the above, has eliminated my problem. Not sure if yours is the same.

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Guest cdoersom

Flash - My problem is almost exactly the same. It started as only one restart being required, but has grown over a period of 3-4 months to needing 2 or 3 restarts. It only happens after the engine is off for a period of time, like first thing in the morning, or after work.

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That is odd, my parts book shows the 16141292 being for an 89 Riviera with 2.84:1 gear. Looks like the 89 E-97 with 2.97 gear would want a 16141300/bd99 code 1094 Federal & 16141305/1104 California (292 will probably work ok - is speedo accurate ? See TSB 90-6E-8 Feb 90

For a 1990 the p/n is 16148013 code 8064 Fed 16148015/8074 Cal

I do not know what the letter codes are for these but believe the ASSU is the original.

Note that this is for a specific cold start problem - long crank cold but if you cycle the key twice (key on/wait a second, key off and repeat then start and it starts ok) the PROM will fix.

Be aware that there was also a TSB 89-6E-25 issued in Frb 90 that refers to engines that will not stay running and will not restart in ambients above 65F usually with less than 1/4 tank of gas. The cause is a loss of fuel pressure and the fix is replacement of the in-tank fuel deflector 25027515 and strainer/filter 25055697

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it could be a leaky fuel rail. When starting the car, try just turning the key to the on position and wait for the fuel pump to stop making noise (about 5 seconds) and then start the car , if that works you are losing pressure in the fuel rail.

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De blue thingie on top of de silver thingie is the ->PROM<- aka Mempack aka CalPack aka Callibrator. The silver thingie under it is the Engine Control Module aka ECM aka computer what into which it does plug (see the connector that looks similar to the one that desktop memory plugs into in the opening.

Note the opening is quite elongated. The BCM (body control module) which looks very similar has a square cover with four screws instead of this one that has two.

If dividing wabbits, the blue thingie actually has two other thingies innit - the actual PROM (a 27C256)and a resistor pack used for back up capabilities (so you can get home if the computer dies).

(Note: had to reduce slightly to get under 100k, screws take a 1/4" nutdriver for reference - typical GM radio)

BTW turning key and waiting does no good. Need to turn key on, wait a second, turn key off, turn key on again and start. If this works, you need the replacement PROM.

PS if anyone knows the letter code of the replacement (-300), please let me know. Not having an 89 (or 90) I cannot justify buying one. I do have the update for the 88 code ANCX p/n 16123488.

PS finally the fershluginner jpg ist dere <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />.

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