Air lines

<BR>I'm running permanent air lines from compressor to blast cabinet, etc. I was going to use black pipe but have been told Sch 40 PVC is the way to go. It sure would be easier to use. Anybody use PVC. What are the drawbacks to it if any. Thanks, Doug.

I am not sure I would trust the schedule 40 for compressed air. I KNOW my city inspector wouldn't pass it if it was in my shop no matter how much I passed him under the table :-).<BR>No real reasons for it but I will always use metal pipe for air.<BR>Do some searching on the net, I just saw recently a very good article on the correct way of running air in a shop. I can't remember where though.<BR>Bill<p>[This message has been edited by Bill Stoneberg (edited 07-22-2000).]

I have been using PVC pipe in my garage for about 3 years. I first used 3/4 in pipe in my old garage and when I moved and built new garage i used 1 1/2 in PVC pipe, with a 3/4 in drop lines down to work bench and several other easy access locations. I have only had one problem, one connection started leaking after 3 years, cut it out with hack saw and pieced in new fittings. I am finding very little condensation in pipes, compared to steel pipe, and a lot more cheaper. Try using the largest diam. pipe you can as this will act as a storage tank for more air. Especially using a blast cabinet, they use lots of air. Get a tip catalog they have an excellent diagram of air pipe set-uo for their air systems, and the catalog is free.<BR>Good luck

Don't use the PVC, for more reasons that safety. It retains heat and you can have condensation problems. I just had a customer complaining about water, with a new 4 Cyl. 8 Hp two stage compresser. He was very mad and wanted to know what happened. I went out to look at the problem. He had also installed a new piping system, all in PVC, right up by the ceiling screwed to the wall. All were bad mistakes. PVC has a thick wall and retains heat, mounting it up at the ceiling put it in hotter air so it can't cool off, and last, screwing it on the wall doesn't allow for the air to get around it. The best thing to use is copper tube. The L level tube at 1" can withstand 440 PSI at 150 degrees and still 260 PSI at 400 degrees. Being the air coming out of the compresser is anywhere from 150 to 250 PSI this is well within a safe area. Put it down a foot or two from the ceiling and on blocks so it is off the wall. The layout I have posted is from Sharpe spray guns and includes a refrigerated air drier in the lower right hand side, I doubt you plan on running one so just disregard it. The fine print at the top reads "Four inch drop per 50 feet", this drop is back to the compresser, so any water runs back to it instead of out to your air hose. The drops go up four inches then down for the same reason. The first filter sould be 15 to 20 Ft. from compresser. Have fun! <img src="http://members.aol.com/buickfam/pipesize.jpg" width=500> <img src="http://members.aol.com/buickfam/piping.jpg" width=500><P>------------------<BR>buickfam@aol.com<BR>Life long Buick Fan.<BR>1965 Skylark H/T<BR>1965 Gran Sport Convertible<BR>1948 Chevy Pickup with 401 Buick.<p>[This message has been edited by MARTINSR (edited 07-22-2000).]

My customer just reported that he has completed the change to copper, and it's like night and day....no more water! <P>------------------<BR>buickfam@aol.com<BR>Life long Buick Fan.<BR>1965 Skylark H/T<BR>1965 Gran Sport Convertible<BR>1948 Chevy Pickup with 401 Buick.