6 volt generator

Ihave a 1935 Dodge pick-up with a charging problem. The field in the generator burned out and I had it repaired with a new regulator. Since then the generator puts out a charge but it doesn't charge the battery. With the engine running, I disconnect the battery cable from the battery and the engine will die. Also, the only time the horn ever blew was when the engine was running, all other times it would just grunt,so I know the battery isn't getting the charge. Also the amp needle never moves since I had this problem. I'm thinking that the amp meter may have gotten fried. Would a bad amp prevent the generator from charging the system?

Put a voltmeter on the "bat" terminal of the volt regulater with the engine off...it should read 6 V ...if not..you have an open between the battery and the voltage regulater...It could be the guage or a dirty connection somewhere....Happy hunting <BR> bill

Besides the above, those old regulaters usually needed to be polarized to function properly. also easy to mis wire it when installing, then its on to looking for a broken connection, or corrosion somewhere

Thanks Bill for your response, I'll check out the amp meter per your instructions. WhatI need to know is if an amp meter is burned out, will it keep the generator from charging the battery? does the generator charge go to the amp first and then out into the system or does go into the system first and then into the amp meter?

I believe the correct path for the electricity is through the amp meter first, then it will be directed to your other electrical devices.

Typically the loads and generator hook up to one side of the ampmeter. The battery to the other. If there is an "open" in the ampmeter it could keep the battery from being charged.<P>But then, nothing would work if the engine was off. Including the ignition. It sounds like more investigation is needed.<P>cmj: Regulators do not and never have needed to be "polarized". It is the generator that needs to be polarized. It just so happens that all the wires you need to polarize the generator are convienently (sp?) located on the regulator.<P>A generator uses the residual magnetic field in the iron core that is surrounded by the field coils to get started. If that residual field is missing or backwards, then you need to polarize it. Any reputable repair shop should have tested the generator after making the repairs. To properly test output the generator will need to have an appropriate residual field. And thus it should have already been "polarized" before you got it back. I have taken generators that have been on a shelf for nearly 30 years and run them just fine without polarizing them. That residual magnetic field gets weaker with age, but not enough that you normally have to worry about it. First time you get it running the field is "recharged" and ready for another few decades of sitting.<p>[ 05-12-2002: Message edited by: ply33 ]

I am not sure if your truck is the same as the Studebaker's are from those years. The voltage output from the generator uses what is called 3rd brush regulation. You may have to move the 3rd brush to get a higher voltage out. Perhaps something over 7.2 volts so that the voltage coming out is higher than the battery voltage.

This broblem croped up last fall just before putting the truck into storage. When I get it out in a couple of weeks ,I'll try to run the problem down with all your suggestions. I really appreciate all of you for jumping in to help me out. Thanks a lot<BR> Herb<BR>

Herb,<P>I'd just like to add that I highly doubt that your ammeter is "burned-out"; most of the ammeters I've ever seen actually have a heavy "buss-bar" that connects the two terminal posts, and suspended above that buss-bar is the needle with a magnet hooked to it's tail, which responds to the magnetic field created by current flowing through the buss bar in one direction or another.<P>Most old time ammeters are rated for 30amps, so, short of wiring in series with your starter cable, it's pretty hard to "cook" them. <BR>Also, they're not "voltage specific": they'll work just fine on 12 volts too, in case you ever needed on to.<P>I'd check out the generator & regulator to make sure they're working up to snuff.<BR>According to my trusty, musty 1935- '42 MoToR's Manual, which lives under my desk, Dodge used a 'third-brush' generator through 1936, and used an Auto-lite "TC" ("two-charge") regulator; unless someone along the way "updated your vehicle to use the later two-brush generator and regulator. The later (1937-1950) generator is about the same size and uses the 3/4" groove pulley.<BR>The regulator for the third brush generator is about 2/3 the size of the "standard" regulator.<P>A shop manual and an good digital volt/ammeter can help you adjust the voltage regulator, if that's your problem.<P>I'll do some more checking and see if I can find a "correct" generator number for your Dodge.

At the risk of being acused of saying something dumb online I'll ask if the battery has been installed with the correct polarity hookup? I once knew a guy who bought a 36 Stude in Colorado took the bus out to get it, was told the generator didn't charge at that point so he planned a long slow trip back to New Jersey. Oh yes the starter wouldn't crank either. Anyway the problem was found the next day by an oldman who recognized the + post was not going to the frame wire. Switched the battery around, the car started and the generator charged again. Stude8

The original amp meter did get fryed some time ago and the current one is an add on under the dash. I tested the generator by hooking a 6 volt bulb up to the regulator and with the engine running, the bulb lit up.<BR>Therefore, I assume the generator is putting out a charge. The Dodge does have a positive<BR>groung

Do yourself aa favor and put a GOOD generator on it,Get a two-brush unit from a40-up car,also the regulator to match.Ever so much better !

Herb,<BR> The fact that a 6 volt bulb lights up just means that the generator is putting out "some" voltage. You need to measure the output with a volt meter to see what the voltage actually is. Also measure the battery voltage, with everything turned off.<BR>The voltage the generator puts out must be higher than the battery. If not then you must adjust the 3rd brush on the generator to make it so.

What George says is correct but remember most generator voltage measurements are made with a "load" imposed on the generator. The test stations used to have what was called a "Carbon Pile" or a nichrome wire load to make the generator labor under test.<BR>Reading the previous talk on this problem I worry that this old truck has original wiring and well worn at that. At 65 years it is probably time to seriously rewire at least the heavy load conductors in the charging circuits. Just an observation. Stude8

If you want to confirm the status of the ampmeter, just bypass it. It is in series with the wire from the battery to the rest of the car's electrical system. The only thing that doesn't run through it is the starter. Just connect both wires together and it is effectively out of the circuit. If you have a digital volt meter, you can see if the generator is working by monitoring the voltage at the ampmeter's terminals in reference to ground. With the engine stopped,you should have about 6.2 volts. With the engine running, if the system is charging, you should see an increase in voltage to about 6.8 - 7.2 volts. 7.2 volts is a good charging rate for a 6 volt battery. If the voltage is still the same (or lower) as it was with the engine off, the generator or regulator is not working. Be sure to check for poor connections and faulty wiring. <P>You can use a digital volt meter to look for high resistance conections and bad wires. To measure loss through the system, connect one lead of the meter to the voltage source (the batttery for instance) and one lead to your load. In other words, this connection is in parallel with the existing cable. The reading you get on the meter is voltage drop. The less the better. Any drop of much more than 0.10 volts is reason for suspicion of a bad wire or connections.<P>Happy trouble shooting!

My problem is salved. one of three things happened. I may not have polorized it properly, the threads that holds the battery wire to the regulator were striped and therefor the wire may not have been tight. Or the belt may have been loose.<BR> I want to thank everyone for there suggestions and I have them all filed for future referances.THIS IS ONE GREAT WEBSITE<BR> Herb