Jump to content

'10 Hupp drive train repairs...


Tom400CFI

Recommended Posts

I've begun working on some repairs to the Hupp's drive train. I say "repairs" because this is absolutely NOT any kind of "restoration" here. Just as if my Chevy Silverado need work due to mileage/wear, I'd repair the worn item...not restore the whole truck, so it is in this case, with the Hupp.

The rear is pretty much shot; the ring and pinion "stripped" and I replaced w/a mismatched set to make a tour. When doing so, I observed that the carrier bearings were worn, allowing the carrier to float around, the axles are worn down where the bearings run, the taper is wron from a loose wheel running on it, the brakes are worn (the mechanism, not the friction material), friction material saturated w/oil, and on and on. Its flat worn out.

The trans developed a problem in which the Drive (2nd) gear wore through the reverse fork linkage pin. So something is wrong there. Something is wrong w/the clutch release bearing/bushing because pushing on the clutch pedal slows the car faster than the oil-soaked brakes do. Again, a lot of miles worth of wear here.

Here are the first couple pics of disassembly...

Hupp1.jpg

Hupp2.jpg

SO far, I can't get the trans to separate from the crank case. I've tried a variety of techniques, and it hasn't budged at all. So, the engine/trans assy is coming out next, which will allow me better access and less risk of damage to anything in the process. More pics to follow, as I move along.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you push the clutch in, and the car slows, it means the three bushings between the engine block and transmission (which ride on the shaft) are worn or worn out.

There are new gears being made for the rear end of Model 20 Hupps, about $1500 per set, ring and pinion.

The spider gears can be replaced easily with Model T gears, I did mine and it was simple, so simple that one might think Hupp used the same supplier or machine shop as Mr. Ford.

The transmission has a main gear at the rear, which rides in a large bushing, and contains a small bushing for the main transmission shaft. These are usually worn and must be rebuilt, or transmission won't mesh correctly.

There are also numerous adjustments to the transmission and linkage which must be correct.

Simple cars, but lots of stuff that wears out. Let me know if you need further help David.Coco@hphood.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No problem David.

Tom a word of caution removing the transmission from the engine ; it must be pulled straight back for several inches as the clutch drum assembly(seen in the above photo,on right) fits over the end of the crankshaft, and makes the rear main bearing . The bronze washers shown in the photos make up quite a bit of "suction" with some oil in them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a BUNCH for the replies and info, gentlemen. I apologize for leaving you all hanging; I've been sick for over a week (!), which is the worst spell I've even been through. I'm finally coming out of it now, but obviously, nothing has happened on the car since I posted.

Will post pics of the next session which will hopefully be tomorrow, if I continue to feel better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Dean_H.

Tom,

Bad deal on the sickness, glad to hear you are getting over it. It would have been easy to patch your car enough to make the next tour. Way to go on fixing it right.

I have a basket case '12 Hupp, and your pictures are helpful for me. Thanks for posting. One question, in your second picture it looks like there's a brace or ? behind the seat. What is that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I made a little progress today. Here are some pics and vids for your viewing pleasure...

IMG_6399.jpg

IMG_6402.jpg

IMG_6403.jpg

This is just a vid of the engine, here. Nothing too special...

th_MVI_6406.jpg

Here are some close-up shots of the clutch thrust surfaces. I don't know what they are supposed to look like, but these look pretty worn to me....

IMG_6404.jpg

IMG_6405.jpg

IMG_6418.jpg

IMG_6417.jpg

IMG_6419.jpg

Here is a vid of the trans, and what is wrong with the thing....

Here are a couple shots and vids of the rear....

This video shows the slop in the carrier bearings, and the resulting pinion movement...

IMG_6409.jpg

IMG_6413.jpg

IMG_6415.jpg

IMG_6420.jpg

Look at the amount of color/metal in this oil! A wobbly carrier, and poorly meshing ring&pinion are the culprit, I'd say. This oil has roughly 500 miles on it. A lot, for an antique car...but not enough for this level of contamination.

IMG_6422.jpg

Edited by Tom400CFI (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tom , you've been busy , good work. Was that a piece of metal you pulled out of the back of the engine in the video ?

Interesting your car had three bronze in front of the clutch drum, the book calls for the middle one to be fiber, but I would think bronze would be O.K. (David,your input ?).What is important is the correct distance from the back of the engine so the clutch will operate correctly.

I think you should open the clutch drum assembly ( caution here ! needs to be done in a press). The bushing inside will be worn and cause a lot of grief ( I could write a whole chapter on that !) .

I believe the drive gear is held in position by the shaft so those bushings front & back are very important.

Look forward to you opening up the rear axle.

Do you have a parts book ?

good luck ,Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tom , you've been busy , good work. Was that a piece of metal you pulled out of the back of the engine in the video ?

I don't know. It looked like a piece of cotter pin, to me.

I think you should open the clutch drum assembly ( caution here ! needs to be done in a press). The bushing inside will be worn and cause a lot of grief ( I could write a whole chapter on that !) .

Will do, and have a look.

I believe the drive gear is held in position by the shaft so those bushings front & back are very important.

Are you saying that the transmission "mainshaft"/input shaft is what is supposed to locate the "hi" gear w/in the transmission? If so, I'd say that the clutch needs to be shimmed rearward, to hold that shaft back.

Look forward to you opening up the rear axle.

Do you have a parts book ?

good luck ,Ken

I do! :)

The bushing in the pic, in the post above....that is the "fron bushing"...front of what?

-Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bushing in the photo is for the front of the main shaft ( it is located in the front of the clutch drum). Once you pull the shaft out of the clutch assembly you'll see the shoulder on it that corresponds with the "step" in the bushing. That step may be worn and /or you may need to space the clutch drum towards the rear a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi- the three bronze bushings should work, I put mine together with the fiber one in the middle as Ken states. These act as a thrust bearing when you put the clutch in, so they have to slip....

tTe other thing to check while you have the transmission out is the rear bushings in the trans.

There are two. One large one in the rear of the housing, into which the large main gear fits. Mine was totally worn out.

The other bushing is actually in the main gear itself, a small bushing that holds the rear of the main transmission shaft.

Both of these have to be in good condition to allow transmission gears to mesh and shift correctly.

Very simple transmission, easy to take apart, just take notes and pictures so you know where all the set screws go back!

Good luck with your rebuild.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I brought the clutch into work today, so I could use the press...and pulled it apart. I do not see the bushing in the pic above. Also, I can't figure out how to get the discs off the clutch hub. The rear most one comes right off, but the first one forward, that is splined to the hub, rather than the shell, won't come off, because the thrust surface is preventing it from moving off the hub.

I was shocked to see a BALL bearing, thrust bearing. Weird that they'd use that nice ball bearing inside, but not on the clutch housing-to-crank case or the release fork-to-clutch housing surfaces. Anyway, here are some more pix...

clutch003.jpg

clutch002.jpg

clutch004.jpg

clutch005.jpg

clutch006.jpg

HERE, you can see the second from the rear most disc, unable to come off as it is hitting the thrust/release surface....

clutch007.jpg

HERE is a pic of some clips?

clutch010.jpg

And then these "plugs"? What are they for? I can see no purpose for these things...

clutch011.jpg

EDIT: I figured out what the "plugs" are for; adusting the spring tension on the clutch, as the plates wear. The spring seats on those "plugs", so screwing them IN, would increase the tension on the spring and plates.

Edited by Tom400CFI (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tom, I don't think there is any need to remove the clutch plates, unless they are blue from heating, or show any other damage. The three "plugs" in my opinion are to compensate for any un-even ends of the clutch spring, so it will align with the shaft. The front bushing is pressed inside the drum ( forward of the (ball) thrust bearing) it should be miked ,and checked for fit with the front of the shaft.It is like a pilot bearing . No need to remove unless you need to replace. Mine had about .012" should only be @ .002 clearence.

I had major clutch problems due to the play.When the clutch was depressed it put a side load on the front of the main shaft. That caused it to continue rotating when it should have stopped, also problems when releasing, which I think was due to 1/2 of the clutch plates being out of line ( not concentric) with the other 1/2 of the plates .

That being said, I don't consider myself the expert ! This is what I found in my car, and my thoughts.

Hopefully David will give some advice , and you'll confer with others .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

There are new gears being made for the rear end of Model 20 Hupps, about $1500 per set, ring and pinion.

David

Who has the gears and does anyone know what the rearend ratio is surposed to be ? My rear end I suspect is non original and it would be nice to have it stock

Having never seen the inside of my drive train I'm enjoying the pictures and videos -Karl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There were two ratios available 3 1/2 :1 or 4:1 .

The gentleman that had some made is out I am told. Will get the info from him if you or Tom need it.

I think I have a shop drawing for the bevel gear somewhere , I understand that is a good part of the co$t .

Here is a pic of putting mine together .

Tom, Any progress ?

Ken

post-59140-143138472599_thumb.jpg

post-59140-143138472605_thumb.jpg

post-59140-14313847261_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Edgar Bowen

Hi Ken,

I loved reading your thread and seeing the pictures of your Hupp 20. All that you are going through I have already done here in Gympie, Qld. My Hupp was assembled from parts collected over 1,500 miles across eastern Australia and took 7 years to complete. Every part I got was worn out so I can say, "been there and done that." All I did has proved itself over the 6,000 miles I have driven the car. Now I am building 4 more Hupp 20s from the parts left over, and right now am doing exactly what you are doing with the transmission. I had to make new axles, rear hubs, brake drums and brake shoes for the first car because it is a 1910 Model B like yours.

Just watch out for the fit of the Clutch drum to the crankshaft. There must not be any movement between the two. When put together they should be rock solid and a tap on fit with a rubber mallet. You may need new stepped keys which are riveted to the crankshaft. They can be made.

I replaced the brass washer bearings with Torrington bearings and pressure plates. The same with the wierd ball race bearing under the clutch spring. Now there is no stalling the engine when de-clutching at an idling speed.

Second, no need to use a press to dis-assemble the clutch, just get two pieces of threaded rod, remove 2 of the screws from opposite sides which hold the clutch together and replace them with the rods on which three nuts are screwed. Run one nut down to the bottom and lock the other two together at the top end of the rod to stop the rod unscrewing. Remove the screws that are left and then gradually loosen the nuts on the two rods so letting the assembly come apart. Putting it together again is the reverse of this proceedure.

Thirdly, I replaced the hyatt diff. carrier bearings with modern Timkens.

Fourthly, my crown wheel and pinion were beyond redemption so I replaced the whole internal assembly with a T Model Ford diff. (common as dirt) using the Hupp housing. This required some machining on one side of the housing and on the Ford diff. carrier. It was a tight fit but went in and worked very well. Of course I had to make a new drive shaft to fit the Ford pinion. (3.5 : 1 ratio) and the car goes like a rocket -50 MPH on the flat but don't do it because the crankshaft is not up to it. OK freewheeling down hill. Never touch the brakes without de-clutching if you don't want a broken crankshaft. There's a lot of kinetic energy in that flywheel.

If new Hupp crown wheel and pinions are available of course that's the way to go but make sure to use Timken bearings. They fit perfectly.

Fifthly the three plugs are to adjust the spring pressure to overcome any

shuddering of the clutch. Don't worry about the rattling in the clutch when you release the pedal, that is what they do.

Don't let anyone tell you you can't double de-clutch from high to low gear. It just takes practice getting the engine revs and car speed right.

I always get up as much speed as possible going down hill in neutral to get up the other side and then slip the lever into high gear double de-clutching. On a long journey say 100 miles, I average 25 MPH including stops every 1½-2 hours to check the engine oil.

All the best,

Edgar

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Edgar, Just to be clear this thread relates to Tom's car. I ( Ken ) am just trying to help out as well,and I , like you , have gone thru some of the same .

You are quite correct on the clutch drum procedure, I have done mine both ways.

Question ; you mentioned using Timken carrier bearings on the differential. By that do you mean tapered ? If so , how did you get the proper preload on them ? I was thinking of going that way but was confounded by the pre-load issue. The Hyatts seemed O.K. so I used them .

As to the three plugs; an interesting discussion . My clutch hub does not have them . My car is s/n 1175 ,fairly early. I think Hupp re-engineered this piece to over come some problems. You will note in the parts book the p/n for these are 211 1/2 and 212 1/2. My thinking is the 1/2 denotes they were added after the initial engineering. What they do I believe is apply the spring tension evenly to the un-even spring end. My spring was badly out of line with the main shaft and caused problems . Of course most Hupps have the three springs - and no problems like I had .The only note I would add is that when assembling the clutch is to make sure the spring is fitted well to the hub so it is in alignment with the shaft. To do this I set the spring on the bench ,set the hub on top ,then measure to the bench ,turn a bit if needed.

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Edgar Bowen

Hi Ken and Tom, sorry I got your names mixed.

I used Timken tapered roller bearings for the dif. carrier. No.28682 with cup No.28623. Pre loading adjustment is done with any washer shims as required behind the bearings in their housing and then fine adjustment by removing the grub screws in the dif. housing (for drifting out the bearings) and replacing them with square head studs with lock nuts that press against the bearings or shim washers.

Yes of course, my clutch does not have the adjustment either, I forgot because as a temporary measure I used a later model engine and gearbox. I am currently working on the original power unit to replace that and get my 100 year plaque. My car is No.5208, probably made around August/September 1910 but restored as a 1910 season and not 1911 season car. i.e.painted red instead of blue with five leaf front springs, original 1910 axle with no spring seat and aluminium hub caps on the wheels. It has the small brake drums and non adjustable torque tube so getting the preload on those bearings was a trifle challenging.

In case you are interested the Torrington bearings are AXK4565 + thin pressure washers to fill the 7/32 inch gap between clutch drum and crankcase (check this gap, bearing in mind wear on the crankcase) and AXK4065 for internal Torrington bearing behind the clutch spring (if required) with pressure plates LS 4060 & AS4060. From memory this set up obviates the problem with the shoulder on the brass bush as it fits around it (However my memory is playing tricks on me now).

Good luck with the work, Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. I have not progressed since my last report, but the info above is fantastic. Thanks for the part numbers. I had planned on replacing the clutch bushings with a roller thrust bearing, and the differential carrier bearings w/tapered rollers...so good to know someone has done that and it worked out.

I hope to move along this coming weekend, and if so, I'll post more pics.

Ken, my factory dif carrier bearings look nothing like yours at all. I will post pics...

-Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys. in response to some earlier posts about ring and pinions, any information that I could get would be extremely helpful. It's clear that I need a R&P -you can see just by looking at the pictures. Drawings woudl be fantastic, and actual parts woudl be even better.

-Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi- contact Don Smarker, dsmarker@cox.net, 785-2334040. He makes the gears you need for the Model 20. Its 11 tooth pinion to 48 tooth ring gear, so a little low geared and you won't get the speed that a 4:1 ratio would give you (that's what mine has, I think there was a 3.5:1 ration available for flat country).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Edgar Bowen
That is awesome info. I will try contacting him. The 48/11 is a 4.36:1 ratio. I'm pretty sure that I currently have a 4.50:1 in there right now, but I will have to count and check.

You would be right about 4.5:1 dif ratio. Most of the later Model 20s were fitted with that ratio. Early ones were 4:1 and the torpedo was 3.5:1 which makes for a more exciting car! Touring car had 4.8:1 ratio.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dial-up warning! Here are more pics, these of the rear disassembly.

IMG_6437.jpg

IMG_6438.jpg

IMG_6439.jpg

IMG_6440.jpg

IMG_6441.jpg

YOU can see here that my carrier ran on ball bearings. I have no idea if this is correct or not, but if it IS, watch out when you split the case; balls will go everywhere if you're not careful!

IMG_6442.jpg

Mine had 36 balls, total.

IMG_6452.jpg

Here you can see a couple shots of the races, diff carrier, etc.

IMG_6443.jpg

IMG_6444.jpg

IMG_6445.jpg

Here is an "uh-oh"! I can't believe that this didn't reek havoc!

IMG_6447.jpg

Here you can see the end of the axle shaft is in bad shape. I don't know if it would be better to build it up (weld) and turn it back down, or have new shafts made...

IMG_6448.jpg

This race is flaking apart...and also lose on the carrier assy.

IMG_6453.jpg

IMG_6460.jpg

Taking the ring gear off...

IMG_6455.jpg

Here is the diff, coming apart...

IMG_6457.jpg

IMG_6459.jpg

IMG_6463.jpg

IMG_6464.jpg

Here is a pretty beat-up ring gear.

IMG_6466.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are some pics of the torque Tube. I can't figure out how to get the thing apart. When I took the access "plugs" out -the ones that allow access to the front U-joint, I found another "Uh-oh". Yikes...

IMG_6467.jpg

IMG_6468.jpg

I guess those are the only pics I took of the TT, but I removed the clamping bolt and I can spin the forward section -I guess you'd call it the U-joint housing?, but I can neither slide it down the tub, nor pull it up/forward. I also removed the pin that should retain the u-joint to the drive shaft, and now the joint feels very slightly loose on the shaft...but I can't get it off. Or even begin to slide it off the shaft. Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The U-joint assembly is, if I remember correctly, both pinned and keyed to the pinion shaft. The pinion is not a separate gear mounted to a shaft, but rather a gear cut into the end of the shaft, it's all one piece. Thus, it only comes apart from the front, or the end with the universal joint.

Once the pin is out, it's a press fit, so you'll have to hold the tube in a large vise or other constraint, and with a drift tap the universal joint off. The other option is to be able to grab the front of the universal joint and pull, but that's easier said than done, and may damage the joint.

Was the pin loose, was that the one picture when you took the plug out? It's a tapered pin, if I remember correctly, and was then peened on the small end to hold in place.

Ken, you may remember this assembly better than I do, chime in if I described it incorrectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The U-joint assembly is, if I remember correctly, both pinned and keyed to the pinion shaft. The pinion is not a separate gear mounted to a shaft, but rather a gear cut into the end of the shaft, it's all one piece. Thus, it only comes apart from the front, or the end with the universal joint.
Yep, that is all correct. i assumed that when I pulled the pin (the rest of the way out, YES, that pic was of the pin, almost 1/2 way out as it was when I removed the plugs!), the joint would slide off the shaft. Nope. Thanks for the reply. :)

-Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Tom , Nice to see the progress report. You sure did have two big Uh -ohs !

No need to take the torque tube apart as David ( trimacar) mentioned. You'll need to convince the u-joint to come off. I did more putting together than taking apart, but I'd soak it good first overnite at least. I'm told a 50:50 mix of auto transmission fluid & acetone is pretty good , but everybody has a favorite. Maybe a slide hammer if you have one and can get a bite on the u-joint, or I think I used two prys in the plug holes and just catch the edge of the holes of that pin that fell out( being mindfull of the threads ,of course.

You also might try prying under the pinion gear at the other end , but you'd be fighting both the u-joint and getting the rear bearing out of the bore. Of course I soak that end too.

And I 'm sure you know to use some heat if nothing is budging.

Have you made any further progress in the tranny ?

Did that bolt in the differential break in the middle or just under the head. DId you find the other piece ? Or did it get ground up ?

Later, Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I didn't explain it well I guess, wasn't suggesting taking the torque tube apart...Ken, you just have a better way with words! Many thanks again for the seat patterns, getting the upholstery finished soon, it's all sewed up.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...