Terry Wiegand

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Terry Wiegand

  1. Early Cadillac

    The car must not have been driven at night. The headlamp forks are missing the headlamps. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  2. 1925 Standard Saga Continues

    Larry, try and look on the bright side of this project. At least you will not have to rebuild the clutch. Terry Wiegand Out in Doo Dah
  3. 1925 Buick running boards

    Jim, your Chevrolet truck is absolutely beautiful. The old Deere and Company logo is just perfect for that truck. I have told everyone for years that there are only three things in this world that are worth a solitary dime - and they are GM, JD, and HD - not necessarily in that order. Please keep us posted with photos on your running board project. Something tells me that the Buick will end up looking like your truck when you get it all sorted out. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  4. 1925 Buick running boards

    The details that Hugh talks about here are almost identical to what was done on the running boards for my 1916 D-45. I will admit that I am not well versed on the '25 models, but the '16 thru '22's I do know a little bit about. In regard to the running board moulding on the '25 models - it is entirely possible that the design details changed from 1916 forward. Restoration Supply stocks the moulding for the '16 and later models up to ? year. An interesting note about the moulding on my '16. It is EXACTLY the same as the kitchen counter top moulding that was in my grandparents house. My Dad redid the running boards shortly after he got the car and bought the running board and floor board trim from a flooring and tile supply business here in Hutchinson in the middle 1960's. Hugh is da man in my book. He is going to have as authentically correct a vehicle as is possible when he is finished with it. The important thing that he has found out and that I have known for years is the invaluable help that illustrated parts catalogs will give a person. I'm sorry if it seems like I hijacked this discussion, but I wanted for folks to know some more of the history in the details. One last thing to mention here that is important. For anyone thinking about ordering linoleum - DO NOT do it in the winter. Do it in the middle of the summer. During the winter it can freeze and will break if dropped. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  5. Carburetor Heat pipe fabrication

    Hugh, the collar on each end of the heat tubes is correct for that application. That is exactly what my '22 had when I had the carburetor rebuilt and the exhaust valve rebuilt on the front of the exhaust manifold. The purpose of the collar as near as I can figure is to fill the gap between the O.D. of the pipe and the I.D. of the ports that the pipe fits into. I thought that you guys were going to have Tony Bult make these tubes for you? He has the tooling to do them. I talked to him in Milwaukee last month about this. He told me then that anyone needing these pipes done should get with him. I found out a long time ago that when you find someone who can do things for you that I would struggle with and end up with a crappy job, I'm all over them like a big old dog on a bone. A good example of what I am talking about is the muffler for my '16. I do not have a lathe with a chuck to handle 5.000" OD tubing and the steady rest either. I helped on the job and cut my costs in half. You guys see the photos. I am extremely happy with the way things turned out. Terry Wiegand Out in Doo Dah
  6. I completed the exhaust system rebuild on my 1916 D-45 this afternoon. When I removed everything from the car I thought that this would be a really simple project and I didn't see any real problems except that the cutout valve was rusted up solid. My favorite tool, Marvel Mystery Oil, freed up the stuck plunger valve in no time at all. I remember thinking that this was going to be soooo easy. Then I took the old muffler apart. Holy Crap!! The innards were ALMOST rusted away. I was lucky to be able to get some measurements off the two inside tubes to have a starting point. New aluminized exhaust tubing was obtained locally and I was on the road. I had a good friend with a well equipped shop help with the project. The very inside tube was fabricated and assembled to the inlet fitting. The second or middle tube was machined to length and the outlet holes were machined along with the inner tube holes before it was assembled onto the inlet fitting. (got a little out of sequence there) Here is where the proverbial crap hit the fan. How in the world was a person going to make sure that the middle tube was going to stay tight in the inlet and outlet fittings so that accurate measurements could be obtained for the outer shell length? ALL of the tubes were run in the lathe and machined so that the ends were perpendicular to the center line axis. Then it was measure, measure, and measure again multiple times. We got it and everything fit together perfectly. I hope the photos will give some idea of what went into this project. All that I can say right now is that I am not ready to jump into another muffler project anytime soon. Sometimes all it takes is patience and perseverance. All is well out in Doo Dah. Terry Wiegand Out Doo Dah Way

    Don, what year and model is your car? I have never seen this type of cutout before. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas

    Gregg Lange and I have had some discussions about these mufflers and the way that they were constructed. He had said something to me to the effect that the mufflers with the stamped steel ends had the tendency to rust out real quick. I cannot say one way or the other because I have never seen one of those. I am just very thankful that what I have was able to be rebuilt as shown in the photos. It will outlast me for certain. Mark, could you post some closer photos of your system in the cutout area if you have them? That is an interesting setup to say the least. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  9. What's new in the Buick Bugle?

    I read that article too, and I darn near dropped the magazine. Roberta, the next step is to get the cars parked in chronological order on the national meet show field so that the viewing public can witness the evolution of the Buick automobile/truck through the years. IF Alan Oldfield will allow this to be done this will be single biggest thing that can be done to retain membership from not renewing. He has the chance right here to go down in BCA history as the second best BCA President EVER. Paul Meyer will always have the distinction of being the best ever. There have been some very good folks hold that slot, but, Paul was the best. Now, about the public and our cars on display. I do not mind if someone wants to touch our cars in the process of learning about them. If I or Barbara are with the car there is absolutely no problem. If we are not with the car then we feel that folks should keep their hands to themselves. I do not want anyone pulling on this or trying to open that while knowing nothing about what they could do if it is not done correctly. Common courtesy should always be the rule of the day in situations like this. Larry is right on about Forest Gump. Stupidity Just Cannot Be Fixed! Terry Wiegand Out Doo Dah Way

    There were two types or styles of mufflers that were used at this point in time. The one used the cast ends like mine has here and the other used stamped steel ends. The cast ends lends itself to rebuilding very well. I guess that I should consider myself very fortunate that this car that I have is extremely early in the production runs for this model year. They hadn't started cheapening things up yet. I really wasn't joking when I told everyone that this was one whale of a project. What looks like a really simple job needs to be very precise to fit together properly and work like it is supposed to. I am very happy with the end result that you see here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  11. 1925 Standard Saga Continues

    raydurr, I think that you are being way too pessimistic about the cost. This engine really isn't that much different from a Babbit-bearing Chevrolet in-line six rebuilding wise. You have a crankcase, block, and a head - same as in a more modern engine. Bore it out, new pistons and rings, rebuild the head, turn the crank, and pour the new bearings and set it back together (a person would do the same things on a Chevrolet six) and drive on. Whether Larry keeps the car or sells it, he would at least know what he has then. A fresh total rebuild is not a bad thing come sell time. Just my three cents worth here. And you are certainly right on about someone cobbling things up just enough to make it work. Terry Wiegand Out Doo Dah Way

    You guys are funnier than a rubber crutch in a polio ward! Terry Wiegand Doo Dah America

    Photos are really nice to show what a person is talking about. I don't think that I'd know what a 'doohicky' is without having one shown and described for me. Terry Wiegand Out Doo Dah Way

    Larry, where does one find the torque values for seating the plugs? I don't believe that I have ever seen anything to that end contained in the plug box when installing new plugs. Terry
  15. 1925 Standard Saga Continues

    Larry, just remember what our friend, Jay, says about these old Buicks. "It just takes time to get them all sorted out" You are getting there my friend. One of these days you will have messed with every part on this car and only then can you say that you have it sorted out properly Terry
  16. If anyone out there might be considering disposing of their Horseless Carriage Gazette collection, I am interested. I have every Gazette since 1972 when I joined the HCCA. I am particularly interested in all of the issues before 1972, but would be interested in a whole collection if it should be available. Please contact me if this is something you might consider. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Phone - (620) 665-7672 eMail - terrywiegand@prodigy.net
  17. Hemmings Motor Oil

    Mr. Barnum was right - there's a sucker born every minute. Terry Wiegand Out in 'HOT' Doo Dah
  18. 1937 Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

    Gary, when I first looked at the photos with the 'bump-outs' noted, my first thought was maybe this was clearance for the bolts that mount the body to the frame. I'm purely guessing here because your car is 15 years newer than our newest 'old' Buick. And you have very little, if any, wood in this body like ours has. I sure do like the chrome work you had done. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  19. 1925 Buick coupe

    Pete, our 1920 K-46 Coupe has the small seat that swings out for the right front passenger to sit on and face the back seat passengers(s). It is attached to the front of the right door column and swings under the dash when not used. Our 1922 Model 48 has a 'Pullman' type of folding seat that folds up beneath the dash when not in use and very much aids in entry and getting out of the rear seat area for passengers. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  20. learning about my 1917 D45

    Mark, I would be interested in seeing what photos you have of this car also. It never hurts to see what somebody else has out there. Do you know the owner? Where is the car located? Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  21. learning about my 1917 D45

    Bob, the hood lacing on the hood shelves was originally held in place with split rivets. The original lacing would more than likely be black. Could you post a photo of the back side of the spot light housing? We'd all be interested in seeing what you are describing in the way of the handle. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  22. learning about my 1917 D45

    Bob, in looking at your photos, it appears that the tread width would be the 56 inch axles. The best way to verify that would be to have someone help you measure from the center of the tire to the center of the other tire on the rear axle. Again, looking at your photos, it looks like you have 26 inch wheels on this car. To determine rim size for a 34 X 4 tire, a person doubles the 4 and subtracts the 8 from the 34 giving them 26 inches. This appears to be the very first D-45 that I know of with the 26 inch wheel option. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  23. Hub cap centers color

    Hugh is right on with his answer. Our 1922 Model 48 Coupe has Cobalt Blue / Buick Special Blue body with Black fenders and the hubcap centers are body color. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  24. learning about my 1917 D45

    Bob, if the tires on the car now are 34 X 4, then you have 26 inch wheels. The D-45 for 1916 and 1917 came from the factory with 24 inch wheels standard. The tread width was 56 inches as standard. There were two options that could be had on these cars and had to be ordered special. One was to get 26 inch wheels and the other was to get 60 inch tread spacing. This is right out of my illustrated parts catalog. A tire size of 34 X 4 1/2 equates to a 25 inch rim. I think that if I were you, I would be checking the tread width on this car and see what that measures. You might have an oddity on your hands. I have looked at a lot of D-45's in the course of over 50 years, but, I have never seen one with the 26 inch wheels let alone the wider tread. The grease cup caps are nickel plated on my car and I know it hasn't been messed with in that regard. The lamp on the driver side windshield post is a SPOTLIGHT. A very common accessory back in the day. I have heard the old timers say that it was common to wire the light into the light switch so that the spotlight would be functioning with the headlights on. I have also heard that the wider tread and bigger wheels were aimed at the farmers in rural areas to accommodate horse-drawn wagon roads. You might want to post some photos in regard to the hood lace issue. One more thing about the spotlight - some of them did have an ON / OFF switch in the housing. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas
  25. 1923 Buick Bearing

    Brian, I bought these bearings back in 2009 when Bill Calimer made the new set of wheels for the car. The Timken number for these bearings is - 5310W. I am very sure that in the course of seven model years the rear axle design changed somewhat. Please keep in mind that the D-54 and D-55's rear axle was used on the one ton GMC truck at the time. The D-40 series rear axles were not that much lighter in design. I will be curious as to what you come up with for a price for the bearings I'm using here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas