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About 1935Packard

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  1. Buyer's premium

    It does seem odd, at least to me, that buyers don't collectively demand to auction houses that prices listed to be in actual amount they'll pay, not some lesser amount plus some other amount they have to calculate. Sure, you can run the numbers in your head and adjust. But it's an effort, given that every auction has a different premium. I get why the auction houses like it; for the uninitiated, it creates a false impression that items are cheaper than they are and encourages higher bidding. But it seems odd that this is just understood as the way auctions operate rather than a slimy practice.
  2. I'm a AAA member, so I'll try that first and see if I can get it done through them. Thanks, all, for the tips.
  3. I'm not going to misrepresent how much I paid for my cars, but getting to use the price originally paid rather than the current market value would be very helpful given the combination of inflation over time and work done on the cars.
  4. Mike, if I'm reading the code correctly, the use tax applies if you bought the car within a year of moving to California, and any state taxes you paid in your prior state are offset toward the California tax payment.
  5. Thanks, Grimy! That's extremely helpful. I just called the number you mentioned and they transferred me over to the unit that does registration (direct 916-657-8035, for anyone interested). Then they put me on hold with an estimated wait time of 123 minutes, but with the option (I took) of requesting a call back. It will be interesting to see what they say.
  6. Thanks, Real Steel! A few followups: Do most collectors use regular plates or historic vehicle plates? From what I read on the web, the historical vehicle plates come with a lot of restrictions. I gather that most who drive their cars get regular plates, with driving limits then effectively imposed by their insurance policies rather than state law? On the YOM plates, should I wait to first register the car and then larer come back with the YOM plates? Or should I go to the DMV the 1st time with the YOM plates? Not sure if the latter is possible. My cars are pre-1950, so no need to worry about smog tests.
  7. I'm going to be moving to southern California from the east coast, and I was hoping list-members might have some good advice on do's and don'ts for registering antique cars there. By way of background, I have two antique cars; I drive them each around 700 miles per year; and I have owned both of them for more than 10 years. I'm having them shipped in enclosed trailers to the new house. When I get there, of course, I'll have to register them. I'm particularly interested in advice on where/when to go for registration; whether one should get a historic registration or regular registration; how the taxes or registration fees work; whether it's easy or hard (or worthwhile/not) to get YOM plates, etc. I've looked around for advice on this on the web, but I haven't found very much, so I thought folks here might be able to help. Oh, and if your advice is not to move to southern California, I get that, but that part has already been settled. Thanks!
  8. Bubble on the side of a whitewall tire?

    As the original poster, I thought y'all might like an update. I bought a new tire from Coker, took the old wheel off, and brought them both to the tire shop near me. I had the new tire put on, and an inspection of the old tire suggests it's only a cosmetic bubble. You can't see or feel any irregularity from the inside. (See picture -- bubble on the outside is located at the center of the picture.) I called Coker, and a Coker rep also messaged me on the forum, and they said that they would cover the tire under the manufacturer's warranty. So that's good news. One catch is that I bought the old tire through a classic car repair shop -- technically, they bought the tire, for use on my car -- and so the shop needs to be the one to trigger the warranty. They're a bit messy on the paperwork, and I haven't been able to get them to get the paperwork together and to contact Coker so that I can return the tire. Hopefully that will work out eventually.
  9. Bubble on the side of a whitewall tire?

    Dave, thanks for the advice, and my apologies if my post was unclear. I asked the question because I was trying to determine if the tire is unsafe. I do'n't know much about tires: I don't know enough to know if what I see is just a common cosmetic issue or is a potential safety issue. If is unsafe, I will replace it, so I decided to ask those who would know better than I do. I don't think that's "taking the easy way out." In any event, thanks to everyone for the feedback: I will not drive the car again with that tire, but will instead get a replacement tire from Coker and will have the car towed to a shop for the new tire to be installed.
  10. Bubble on the side of a whitewall tire?

    I agree that the smart move is to be overcareful in these circumstances. As you might guess, I am posting here because I am exercising my duty of reasonable care, not only to others, but to myself, as I am trying to figure out whether a problem exists in the first place. But for what it's worth, I don't think your understanding of tort law is correct, at least for purposes of United States law. (I haven't studied Canadian negligence law, and the law there may be different.)
  11. Bubble on the side of a whitewall tire?

    Ed, yes, it's a tube-type tire. Any thoughts on how long I should stay at low speeds and watch it? Will a few drives around the neighborhood tell me, or is this something to watch longer term? Thanks again.
  12. I just noticed a slight elevated bump on the site of my whitewall tires, as seen in the pictures below. Does anyone have informed thoughts on whether it's just a cosmetic issue or is an indicator of a dangerous condition in the tire? The bump is around two inches by one inch, and it's elevated somewhat and firm but not particularly hard (if that makes sense). The tire is a bias-ply tire I bought from Coker just last year; it has seen about 500 miles of use in that time. Any thoughts very welcome.
  13. Comparing 1931 Cadillacs -- V8 vs. V12

    SaddleRiver, yes, I'm not considering which new 1931 Cadillac I would buy at my local dealership if I had that option. Rather, I would like to buy a 1931 Cadillac sometime in the next two years or so, and I am not sure how I should think about the V8 versus the V12 in the current marketplace given the cars likely to come up for sale. I can see the typical difference in market value -- which seems to run perhaps $50,000 or so for a typical open model, although of course it depends on body style and condition. And I can see the slight difference in looks. But it's hard for me to know the different experience of ownership today, assuming a car that I would drive regularly, without any relevant personal experience with the cars. So I was hoping to become more informed.
  14. Dupont

    In 2011, I had the pleasure of closely inspecting that lone surviving model H in its owner's garage. It is perhaps the most stunning car I have ever seen. it really takes your breath away.
  15. This group had a terrific thread a while back on comparing Packard 12s and Pierce-Arrow 12s, and I was hoping to get the wisdom of the group on another comparison: 1931 Cadillac 355a (the V8) versus 370a (V12). In particular, I'm interested in knowing how the ownership experience of the two cars differs in terms of drivability, reliability, cost of repairs, and the like. I have heard second-hand that the V12s are harder to keep on the road because of the dual carburetors, and that the added weight of the 12 makes it a heavier car but not necessarily a more powerful one versus the 8. But I'd love to heard the wisdom of the group on this. Talking to owners of 370a's, I've had several tell me that they had a lot of problems with the cars when they first bought them: The impression I had was that 370as were often more for show than for driving these days, so that the restoration on the cars often left a lot to be desired in terms of the mechanical. But I don't know if my conversations are representative. Any insights very welcome! Thanks.