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In case anyone is interested, here is the rest of the story. I contacted cartitles.com on 8/10 and for $300 they provided me with the State forms that are available online and that I already had. The first step was to get a Certified VIN Inspection by the State. The appointments were 6 weeks out. So, on 10/2 I took it in and for $50 got the inspection. I contacted an appraisal service and for another $300 got it appraised (they came up with a valuation of $15,000). I contacted my insurance company (Grundy) and got a title bond (for twice the appraised value as required by CO) for $450. I turned in my paperwork on 11/16 and the told me I should hear back in a week or so. I hadn't heard anything, so I called DMV on 12/18 and was told they'd look into it and get back to me. I didn't hear anything, so I called them again today (1/17/24). This time they found that it had been approved on 11/19 and the letter was sent to me, and it apparently disappeared into the ether. They emailed me a copy and tomorrow I have an appointment with DMV to finally get my title. A title fee and then the license fee and then I may finally get my Horseless Carriage plate.

I have recently finished a 1920 Essex that was purchased in 1987 as a basket case. I got a bill of sale from the owner (long since deceased) as there was no title. I attempted to title it, but the BOS has to be dated within the last 2 years. The procedure to get a title in Colorado is cumbersome. Is there any alternative? I'm sure others must have had similar problems.

How have others solved the problem of leaking brass valves? This specific valve is the three-way (on-off-drain) valve at the bottom of my vacuum tank.

Overlands had flat-topped radiators and hoods through 1911, this car has a round-topped radiator and hood which began in 1912. The brass radiator makes it 1912 as they were painted thereafter. The three runningboard brackets make it larger than the more common Model 59, the lamps make it the Model 60 rather than a Model 61. So, I believe its a 1912 Overland Model 60. BTW, the rectangular wood firewall was last used on the 1913 Model 69T.

Drum headlamps appeared in 1922.

The red lens is the taillight, the clear lens is to illuminate the license plate. The post mount makes me think it is an aftermarket replacement for a kerosene taillight. Electrification was a popular update in the mid and late teens of the last century.

FYI, if your Essex is a Model 6A, it's a 1920, not 1919. Your drum headlamps are from 1921 or 1922. There is an Essex 4 group on Facebook. Many great E4 folks around.

I believe I have what you seek, but there are differences between '28 & '29. The '28's and early '29's have clamp-on shock strap attachments, the later '29's have a hole for these attachments. There are also two different diameters of king pins. Then there's the problem of getting heavy iron parts from CO to TX. Is your car a '28 or a '29? s/n?

Just a word about the Classic Car Database that Marty referenced. I have looked up each of my cars in this database and have found errors in every listing. It's a good place to start, but not infallible.

The wheels in Sweden appear to be 1929 Hudson (note mashed hubcaps). This style of 7-lug wire wheel was used (by Hudson) in 1929 only. Bill

Definitely Denver. That's the Colorado State Capitol building in the upper right. Bill

Note the features: 1. Long hood - probably 6-cylinders rather than 4. 2. LHD - many cars changed from RHD to LHD ca. 1914. 3. 2-man top - many cars changed from 2-man to 1-man tops ca. 1915. 4. Vertical windshield - many cars started tilting the windshield backwards in the mid-teens, ca. 1916. 5. Long running board indicates long wheelbase. 6. Apparently set-up for rear mounted spare(s). So, I'd guess it's a 1914 model of a large car.

Condition and price of 1915 CO?

In Finland, it's a 1919 Essex (based on the headlight shape), a 5-passenger touring, export model (RHD), body by Fisher. The NZ car is probably a 1920 Essex (again based on the headlight shape), also a 5-passenger touring, export model (RHD), body by Fisher, but with cowl lights (not on US cars) and accessory second windshield.

I would say Overland, ca. 1915. It has aftermarket accessory coil springs at the connections of the 1/4 elliptical leaf springs to the 1/2 elliptical leaf rear springs and an aftermarket accessory front bumper. The U-Joint is as used on 1914 and newer models. Up through the 1912 model year, some Overland models had two-speed planetary transmissions, but this car does not. Overland's three-speed selective sliding transmission chasses(?) were very similar from 1910 to (at least) 1915, though there were small changes made annually. Too much speed on the all-white smoothies(?).

I believe this truck is a 1915 model Overland. The knob on the radiator cap was first used on the 1914 Model 79's. nzcarnerd is correct that the edge of this truck's radiator shell is more rounded than the earlier (1913-1914) steel shells. It is one piece while the earlier ones are two pieces.

There's lots of mis-information in these responses. It is a 1928 Essex serial number and the cowl looks right for a 1928 H/E open car. The dash in hand is the back piece. The link to a photo is not of a 1928 dash, but a 1929 Essex dash. The instrumentation is the same, but the trim is different - 1928 is more plain, 1929 has the "pine cone / pine needle" pattern and hexagonal cut-outs. They both do have electric combination FUEL / OIL level gauges. 1927 H/E used King-Seeley gauges. Open cars did not have different instrument clusters from closed cars. There isn't a nickel's worth of difference between first series and second series Hudson or Essex cars of the same model year. The 110" wheelbase is correct for 1928 & 1929.

Assuming the car was running with the wiring as received, the (after-market) magneto is "high tension" and the two wires to the switch are to ground the mag to kill the ignition. A high tension magneto requires no battery and has no external coil.

You have stumbled into one of the "features" of dating early Hudsons. From their beginning in 1909, Hudson announced their new models in late summer - early fall as the next year's model. Thus, the 1915 Hudson models (6-40 and 6-54) came out in late 1914. In late 1915, the 6-40 Model G (6-40) was introduced. But then in January 1916, the Super Six (Model H) was introduced, ending the Model G's brief run. Hudson didn't use year designations for several years, but rather used only the model letters: G, H, J , M, O, etc.

I believe this steering box to be from an Overland as it is similar to the unit on my 1913 Model 69. Overland used a similar box for several years. Bill

In my experience, the Studebaker lamps have round bases. The ones in question are, I believe, from an early '20's Hudson sedan. Bill

The six panel rear window in the top makes me think Overland and the black-and-nickel kerosene tail and side lamps are as used (by Overland) on 1913 Model 69's only. The 1913 Overland Model 69T has "question mark" rear fenders. The only other 1913 Overland model to use them was the TC (not on the models 69R, C, or F or the Model 71) . But, the 1913 Overland bodies didn't have the bead across the rear section, the 1913 Overland didn't use windshield support rods from the frame, and 1913 Overland wheels were gray with black hubs. However, the 1912 Overland Model 59 (which had brass trim - windshield, radiator, lamps, etc.) has brass windshield support rods from the frame and all gray wheels. The spare tire holders are not as used by Overland in 1912 or 1913, though rear-mounted spares (2) were standard. It may be an early production 1913 Overland Model 69T with some carry-over features from the 1912 Model 59, or it may be "customized by owner". It couldn't be a Jackson (as per the pennant) could it?

1916 Hudsons came from the factory without bumpers. Typical accessory bumpers of the era consist of a single bar or tube. Your bumper is the type used on Lincolns in the early to mid 1920's.

Please email me pictures of your REMY RL magneto. thewacco@comcast.net Thanks- Bill

Use of the "thumb nut" started in 1914, not 1913. The radiator cap shown in the photos is the only type cap used by Overland in 1911-13. A painted radiator shell (should be black) would not have an unfinished brass filler neck and cap. There was no over-center catch used on Overland radiator caps, so nobody can send you a photo. Bill