steelman

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About steelman

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  • Birthday 02/01/1960

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    A car nut forever

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  1. Not saying it is not a good idea at all. Painless makes a good product. Just trying to give Chewbacca another option to explore. What I should have said is if replacing all wiring and starting from scratch, I prefer the American Autowire products over the Painless products.
  2. I have had more luck with American Autowire. When building hot rod wiring from scratch, they are far better than Painless (and they are not painless, trust me). Try this link and see what they have to offer. I have no experience with them for a Riviera, but have used about 8 of their kits on other projects. https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/?vehicle=1964%3BBUICK%3BRIVIERA&action=add
  3. Is this the same car that sold in Vegas at Barrett-Jackson in 2012? Total price there, including commission was $31,900. Link here. https://www.barrett-jackson.com/Events/Event/Details/1973-BUICK-RIVIERA-GS-2-DOOR-HARDTOP-132844
  4. In the picture above it lists Riviera specifically, but does not list the 4700(0) series, which is Riviera, above that.
  5. Post #50. It has been removed. (censored)
  6. Assuming the foam was not replaced with standard foam, as Tom T. mentions above, custom covers should work. Looks like standard covers will fit over custom seat foam, but custom seat covers will not fit over standard foam? At least not and look acceptable.
  7. Hope he has some thick skin. As you saw, not much tolerance for anything modified here. And those Rushforth wheels look amazing.
  8. Headers

    TA Performance has some. http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=387
  9. I don’t know, maybe blown LS9, stout automatic overdrive, Vette front suspension and a 9” Ford rear. As I said in the first line, not everyone’s cup of tea.
  10. Not everyone's cup of tea, here is a buildup (on going) of a 65 Riviera with a Roadster Shop chassis under it. Like it or not, the workmanship is outstanding. I know nothing about this car or the guy building it other than what I read here. http://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56103
  11. 1963 Speedo cable

    Here is another one that is easier to use, but you must know the number of teeth on the driven gear inside the transmission. Again, these are colored, so remove the drive gear and look in the hole with a flashlight to see the color of the driven gear. Once you know the color, you can determine how many teeth are on that gear and use this formula. http://www.moveras.com/Support/Tools/SpeedometerDriveGearCalculator.aspx
  12. 1963 Speedo cable

    I had to do this about a month ago for the Turbo 350 in a friends 54 Chevy. There are two gears. The smaller drive gear where the cable hooks in and the larger driven gear in the transmission. We ended up changing the driven gear inside the transmission from nine tooth to an eight to make his read correctly. But of course, this was not the original transmission to the car. Here is the formula. You have to know rear axle ratio (or at least close), tire diameter, gear teeth and RPM at 60 MPH. Not sure about the Dynaflow, but in 350s and 400s, gears are colored. Each gear, drive and driven, have their own color based on number of teeth. See what is available and substitute into the formula until you find something close. Check Ebay for gear availability and number of teeth. You may not get it exact, but you can get really close. http://www.monstertransmission.com/Speedometer-Gear-Calculator_ep_122-1.html
  13. The key is overall diameter and sidewall height. I have some very tall 17" tires on mine. Still enough sidewall for a good ride, but still proportioned right.
  14. Sorry, Winston, I have to agree with John. 63-64. Look at the front tip on the right and the fender line. If this line continues around the fender above the light, it is a 63-64. A 65 fender angles up here for the hidden headlights. 63-64 is flat. 65 angles up. At least that is what I look at first.