Go Poly

What a waste of a Riv

Pull the engine....easiest overall. My two cents.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: lvrpool32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have to work on the exhaust on my 64, where do you guys jack your 63 - 65 Rivi's from with a trolley/service jack and place your axle stands?? The chassis goes to a "x" in the middle which is tough to get at with the jack....just would be interested in feedback. Nick </div></div> I couldn't help but notice that one of your cars is a 1969 Corvette. You indicate a '396 small block' can I assume you mean 350 small block? I don't believe the 396 was available in 1969 in Corvettes. Back on topic, I jack my '63 from the rear frame rails and the front frame rails, just past the bumper attachment point.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jim_Cannon</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Go Poly</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a '63 a/c car built in March '63 and it has the ribbed dash, spare tire on right rear of trunk and round lensed glove box light. </div></div> Confirming my explanation. Do you know the build date (week/month) of your body and the Fisher Body number? </div></div> No, but I will make the effort to look it up and post.

I have a '63 a/c car built in March '63 and it has the ribbed dash, spare tire on right rear of trunk and round lensed glove box light.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tjthorson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">heh. I tried a 2 foot breaker bar and couldnt budge it. I actually started tightening the balancer bolt - after about a quarter of a turn of the bolt i stopped because I didnt want to break it off. I was attributing it to sitting for 30+ years and figured once it fires it will loosen back up. But, we have done lots of cranking and the oil pump is pumping lots of oil up top....You would have thought it would be loosened up by now.... </div></div> I would seriously consider pulling the engine and tearing it down....the torque you are probably exerting with a 2 foot breaker bar is at least 100 ft-lbs. It should take anywhere from 15 to 30 ft-lbs w/o the plugs installed. At least that is my experience. Good luck. Scott

I didn't have to hack up anything. I still needed to remove nuts from the interior side to remove the core shroud. It was not as tough a job as it was on my 1975 Chevy Blazer...now that was a pain in the neck!

That is why I replaced mine when I had the engine out! It's easy from the engine compartment!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NTX5467</div><div class="ubbcode-body">mlander . . . considering the poster lists location as California, I suspect the "Go Poly" handle would refer to a school as California Polytechnic (i.e., Cal Poly) or another school/university with "Polytechnic" in its name . . . rather than a reference to the Chrysler Polysperical Cylinder Head engine family (i.e., early "A", with the "LA" family being the later model 273, 318, 340, 360s). That's my interpretation of the situation. I believe there are a few websites devoted to the Chrysler "A" engine, which you can probably find via Google or similar. Chrysler did use Carter AFBs as their choice of 4bbl carbs. I suspect that all 4bbls of that era would be doing good to flow 500cfm at the current industry standard pressure drop for 4bbls. Prior to the decision to use cfm flow at ____" Hg pressure drop to rate carb air flow capabilities, they used "square inches of venturi area" as flow benches had not really come into popular use back then. Respectfully, NTX5467 </div></div> That would be correct. Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, my alma mater.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: frydfsh</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am running an Edelbrock 800 cfm on my 401 that has a mild TA performance cam, mildly ported and otherwise stock engine. It has an electric choke and AVS style secondary's. The engine starts great and runs very well with no stumble and good throtle response. I am satisfied with the performance of this carb. Only drawback so far is gas mileage, which on a recent trip averaged about 14 mpg. Carb is at present time being run right out of the box, some tuning is upcoming. I think that this carb deserves a fair shake, its not that different from the original AVS and is every bit as tunable. </div></div> I have a 750 CFM Carter AFB (new, or at least it was 8 years ago prior to Edelbrock buying them). It has a terrible off idle stumble. Did you have to do much tuning?

Thanks NTX for the analysis. I have three carbs to work with, 1) Rochester 4 Jet (OEM for my Riv), 2) Carter AFB vintage 1964 from a Riv and 3) new Edelbrock AFB. The question is, which do I pursue putting more time and money into to get the car running right?

Here is a photo of my fix to the turn signal cable. If you need more info let me know.

I have a 1963 Riviera and have had nothing but problems with the carb. The original 4 Jet was in pretty bad shape so I replaced it with an Edelbrock (AFB style). The problem is I have a real bad off idle stumble, and I don't know what to do about it. It is a pain to drive it. Help!

I own a '63 Riv and had turn signal difficulties as well. After many hours of troubleshooting I determined that the cable mechanism that is connected to the switch on the steering column was malfunctioning. Specifically the cable sheath had cracked into two pieces rendering the "push-pull" functionality useless. I fabricated a aluminium splice that connects the remaining "good" part of the sheath such that load transfer to the mount could occur thus enabling switch activation. I will take a photo of it and post...perhaps tomorrow. I hope this helps. Owe, my turn signals never worked so good! Well except, perhaps, back in '63 when my father bought the car!