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KDirk last won the day on November 19 2015

KDirk had the most liked content!

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About KDirk

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    St. Louis, Missouri


  • Biography
    A technically minded perfectionist who has found Reattas to be a perfect outlet for applying those characteristics. I also collect and repair vintage Sansui hi-fi gear (from late 1960's to late 1970's primarily) and dabble in pinball machine repairs. I play classical organ and like to mess around with electronic design as it relates to embedded systems. Am a capable mechanic ; and getting better by sheer necessity.

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  1. KDirk

    D-A-N-I-E-L is a GREAT MAN!

    Daniel, i am in for two sets (or more if supply/demand permits) if you have another batch run. I've done two of my four cars with the bushings you had produced and will need to do the other two at some point, plus would like at least one extra set in reserve in case I break down and buy another car at some point. Really, I'd buy four sets provided you make another batch large enough that no one else gets shorted were I to buy that many. If you decide to do another run and need a deposit pre-production, let me know.
  2. KDirk

    Early Reatta Sketchs - Very Interesting

    A Reatta hatchback? That's a bit interesting, but I can't say I like the way it changes the flow of the body lines. The green one is pretty close to production appearance, save for the gauges. I do really like the modernized red and black one (oblique rear view).
  3. KDirk

    b556 code

    That 556 code is usually because the BCM EEPROM which contains the odometer, vin and option content has been corrupted and can no longer be read by the BCM. Thus the odometer is not displayed and no further mileage is accrued until a good EEPROM is installed in the BCM. Can probably get a GM dealer to send it out and program it still, though that service is getting difficult to find anymore for cars of this vintage. I can be of assistance, if you are so inclined you can PM me here for details.
  4. KDirk

    camshaft posision sensor

    Are you sure you got a 91 service manual? It has a red cover. 90 FSM had a dark blue cover. 89 had a grey cover, with illustrations of both the Reatta and Riviera on it in white line art, and 88 was dark blue with the same illustrations (90 and 91 had no pictures of the cars on the cover). I've noted a few errors, myself, but nothing as glaring as what you are reporting. I don't think there was an early ("new product information") and a seperate final edition for 91 as with some previous years of the FSM.
  5. KDirk

    How good is JB Weld?

    JB weld is pretty good on steel and cast ferrous metals. I've used it on brass and even aluminum with decent results, but I'm guessing what you have is what we call "pot metal" in the plumbing business; a zinc based composite casting material used a lot in cars for parts that get chrome plate (like emblems, door handles and side mirrors, before they were all plastic). In plumbing, many faucet bodies and bathtub spouts/trip plates.are made from this stuff. Depending on the surface area that can be "jb welded" and whether you can embed reinforcing material in the JB weld to span the crack, you may or may not get decent strength from such a repair. As a short term fix, it may work, but I'd be looking for a replacement mirror.
  6. KDirk

    Historical article: Reatta, born in 1982

    Interesting to note that the power headrest motor and some related components of that portion of the seat have no part number assigned, and were officially listed in the book as "N.S.", or not serviced. So if it died, you were outta luck unless you could scavenge them from a salvage yard car. Rather strange to see that those were not serviceable parts. Must have been something to do with the vendor that provided them as a complete assembly and portions thereof were not supplied to GM SPO and thus not available to purchase. Would kind of suck if/when it broke and you couldn't fix the power headrest.
  7. KDirk

    Hemmings online article on future collectable cars

    Reattas are getting some attention of late, and prices appear to be going up. I would caution that using the high dollar examples already cited upthread as good examples is probably misguided. I will be blown over with surprise if the driftwood 'vert gets the asking price of $27,900. I'm not knocking the car, I just have doubts it can fetch that price, at least on eBay. That's Barrett-Jackson level pricing there, and not too long ago they sold a near new select 60 'vert in the mid $20's, a bit shy of this driftwood roadster. I think asking nearly $28,000 is optimistic yet. Watch that one and see if it sells and if so what the selling price shown is. If it gets reduced for final sale, or goes through with no takers, that would bear out belief that we aren't quite at the point of getting into that level of pricing yet, even as an outlier. There are several very nice coupes and roadsters on eBay presently listed from around $7500 to $12,000 that have been repeatedly reposted - some for months now - with no sale. And I have been watching to gauge where things are as well as where they are trending. Another thing I'm seeing on eBay specifically is that sellers are using it to advertise, and then making a deal "offline" thereby bypassing eBay collecting the final value fees they charge as it remains unsold, so far as eBay (and any uninvolved casual observers) are aware. This, of course, is a violation of the terms of service but I am seeing it happen in several categories including vintage Hi-Fi and pinball/arcade games which I follow as well. Basically, some of these sellers are using ebay for the wide exposure, but selling in transactions that are conducted outside of eBay so they can avoid the fees. One way they do this is to set the asking price so high no one is likely to bid. That gives them a safe buffer to get the exposure of a nationwide ad, while not getting nicked for whatever percentage eBay is charging for a successful sale. And if it does sell, well, they just got well more than expected so they win anyway. In any case, some things to keep in mind lest we delude ourselves about pricing trends for tbe Reatta.
  8. KDirk

    Rare Combo

    Thats the first I recall seeing a 91 in that color combo. Have seen a couple of 88/89's so equipped. The car pictured looks exceptionally clean, is it a very low mile garaged car?
  9. KDirk


    There was a prototype Targa top as shown in the picture Barney posted. No T-top variant was made so far as I have ever seen, either by the factory or by conversion. I'm of the opinion that t-tops are lousy anyway. They are prone to leaks, and when removed they can be damaged if put in the trunk (assuming they fit) which is detrimental to the cars appearance. If they don't fit in the trunk they have to be left at home which means the car cannot be secure when parked, and the interior will get soaked in a pop-up rain storm wth no way to seal the cabin. All the same is true of a Targa top design as well. At least a convertible can have the roof put up relatively quickly in the same circumstances.
  10. KDirk

    ICP not worky!

    Yes, the CPS has a few electrolytic capacitors inside. The climate settings are maintained in the CRTC memory, so should be unaffected by unplugging the CRT unless you also cut power to the controller.
  11. KDirk

    CRT connections

    I'll have to look at the service manual and review the schematic. Work has me very busy presently, so may take a day or two before I can offer any insight on that.
  12. KDirk

    ICP not worky!

    The ac power supply is on the middle circuit board in the cluster (there are three boards stacked, rearmost is the logic/cpu board, middle is power supply and front has displays). Front board also has some driver circuitry and some serial to parallel shift register IC's to drive the grids and anodes on the VFD"s hidden in the gap beneath the glass display tubes. These get a serial data stream from the logic board and convert that to output to drive the input pins on the display glass. Anyway, the ac power supply consists of several discrete components, several electrolytic capacitors, some transistors, a voltage regulator, some resistors and a few other odds and ends. It is rebuildable, but some parts (transistors and regulator) are stamped with delco house numbers, not industry standard part numbers. So, unless you can figure out what they are, you're dead in the water. I figured out the part numbers for a 90/91 clusters a while back, but have never taken the time to do so for the 88/89 cluster as I haven't had a need to yet. If pilfering parts from a donor cluster, don't reuse the electrolytic capacitors, order and install new ones as these have about 25 year life span and get iffy beyond thst point as they dry out internally and their value drifts. Some resistors are bad about drifting off value as well.
  13. KDirk

    CRT connections

    FYI, the dual coaxial cable with the rust colored plug is the video signal and vertical sync signal from the CRT controller to the CRT. Don't measure voltage on that connector, as both signals are very low level AC and there is nothing to be gained from measuring it. Could also potentially damage the RAMDAC chip in the video output circuit of the CRT controller.
  14. KDirk

    Headlights suggested

    Fairly common issue on the 90/91. This is directly related to the twilight photocell getting out of spec with age. Same reason the instrumentation backlighting on the 88 and 89 models gets unreliable, the photocell isn't properly reporting the outside light level to the BCM. The BCM relies on the input from the photocell to determine if it is day or night, and the value supplied is derived directly from the outside light level as the photocell "sees it". Problem is that the photocell looses it's ability to read the light level accurately after many years of long term sun exposure and starts reporting incorrect values to the BCM as a result. A new sensor is the only solution as there is no means of recalibrating the BCM to compensate for the degradation of the photocell. Be glad yours works, I've replaced all mine with original factory parts as of last summer after having them fail one by one. The sensor, if you can still find it, runs $50-60 new. Good used ones can be found for less, but will probably not last more than a few years tops, as they probably have many thousands of hours of sun exposure already.
  15. KDirk

    ICP not worky!

    Sounds like the IPC has a bad high voltage section. The digital displays are VFD,(vacuum fluorescent display) and require a high AC voltage along with a lower differential AC filament voltage in order to light up. This power supply is internal to the cluster, and not really a DIY repair unless you have bench tech grade electronic repair experience. Given the condition you describe the internal circuit boards in, I'd highly recommend a replacement cluster. I'm not sure any of the rebuild shops are still repairing these, seems they only service the 90/91 cluster. The CRT probably needs rebuilding as well based on the symptoms you are describing. Especially if it got wet due to a windshield leak at some point. If you are in a pinch cost wise, there are a couple of working CRTs on eBay right now for around $150. Eddie Voland (see Reatta resources thread at top of forum) rebuilds them, but that runs $250. Other vendors here sell working used and rebuilt CRTs at varying price points. Based on what you are describing, I don't think it's a CPS failure. The CPS is located up under the dash on the drivers side closer to the center console and is a natural aluminum color encased module about 3x4 inches and about an inch thick. Has a black and silver decal on the front, and is secured with two screws. The black plastic hush panel under the driver side dash needs to be removed the access it. While there are a bunch of wires in its connector, there are only three circuits: 12vdc, 7vdc and ground, and each is output redundantly on multiple wires. If you measure both voltages with a meter, then the CPS is good. Only other advice I can give is to fill the tank every couple of days as insurance until you get working gauges. Of course, driving with no Speedo and no visible readout on the CRT has its own risks, but is doable of you are careful. If you are getting average mileage, you'll get about 200-250 miles per tank in mixed highway/city driving. With no odometer though, you're guessing at that too.