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KDirk last won the day on November 19 2015

KDirk had the most liked content!

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About KDirk

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    Senior Member

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    St. Louis, Missouri


  • Biography
    A technically minded perfectionist who has found Reattas to be a perfect outlet for applying those characteristics. I also collect and repair vintage Sansui hi-fi gear (from late 1960's to late 1970's primarily) and dabble in pinball machine repairs. I play classical organ and like to mess around with electronic design as it relates to embedded systems. Am a capable mechanic ; and getting better by sheer necessity.

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  1. T-Tops?

    There was a prototype Targa top as shown in the picture Barney posted. No T-top variant was made so far as I have ever seen, either by the factory or by conversion. I'm of the opinion that t-tops are lousy anyway. They are prone to leaks, and when removed they can be damaged if put in the trunk (assuming they fit) which is detrimental to the cars appearance. If they don't fit in the trunk they have to be left at home which means the car cannot be secure when parked, and the interior will get soaked in a pop-up rain storm wth no way to seal the cabin. All the same is true of a Targa top design as well. At least a convertible can have the roof put up relatively quickly in the same circumstances.
  2. ICP not worky!

    Yes, the CPS has a few electrolytic capacitors inside. The climate settings are maintained in the CRTC memory, so should be unaffected by unplugging the CRT unless you also cut power to the controller.
  3. CRT connections

    I'll have to look at the service manual and review the schematic. Work has me very busy presently, so may take a day or two before I can offer any insight on that.
  4. ICP not worky!

    The ac power supply is on the middle circuit board in the cluster (there are three boards stacked, rearmost is the logic/cpu board, middle is power supply and front has displays). Front board also has some driver circuitry and some serial to parallel shift register IC's to drive the grids and anodes on the VFD"s hidden in the gap beneath the glass display tubes. These get a serial data stream from the logic board and convert that to output to drive the input pins on the display glass. Anyway, the ac power supply consists of several discrete components, several electrolytic capacitors, some transistors, a voltage regulator, some resistors and a few other odds and ends. It is rebuildable, but some parts (transistors and regulator) are stamped with delco house numbers, not industry standard part numbers. So, unless you can figure out what they are, you're dead in the water. I figured out the part numbers for a 90/91 clusters a while back, but have never taken the time to do so for the 88/89 cluster as I haven't had a need to yet. If pilfering parts from a donor cluster, don't reuse the electrolytic capacitors, order and install new ones as these have about 25 year life span and get iffy beyond thst point as they dry out internally and their value drifts. Some resistors are bad about drifting off value as well.
  5. CRT connections

    FYI, the dual coaxial cable with the rust colored plug is the video signal and vertical sync signal from the CRT controller to the CRT. Don't measure voltage on that connector, as both signals are very low level AC and there is nothing to be gained from measuring it. Could also potentially damage the RAMDAC chip in the video output circuit of the CRT controller.
  6. Headlights suggested

    Fairly common issue on the 90/91. This is directly related to the twilight photocell getting out of spec with age. Same reason the instrumentation backlighting on the 88 and 89 models gets unreliable, the photocell isn't properly reporting the outside light level to the BCM. The BCM relies on the input from the photocell to determine if it is day or night, and the value supplied is derived directly from the outside light level as the photocell "sees it". Problem is that the photocell looses it's ability to read the light level accurately after many years of long term sun exposure and starts reporting incorrect values to the BCM as a result. A new sensor is the only solution as there is no means of recalibrating the BCM to compensate for the degradation of the photocell. Be glad yours works, I've replaced all mine with original factory parts as of last summer after having them fail one by one. The sensor, if you can still find it, runs $50-60 new. Good used ones can be found for less, but will probably not last more than a few years tops, as they probably have many thousands of hours of sun exposure already.
  7. ICP not worky!

    Sounds like the IPC has a bad high voltage section. The digital displays are VFD,(vacuum fluorescent display) and require a high AC voltage along with a lower differential AC filament voltage in order to light up. This power supply is internal to the cluster, and not really a DIY repair unless you have bench tech grade electronic repair experience. Given the condition you describe the internal circuit boards in, I'd highly recommend a replacement cluster. I'm not sure any of the rebuild shops are still repairing these, seems they only service the 90/91 cluster. The CRT probably needs rebuilding as well based on the symptoms you are describing. Especially if it got wet due to a windshield leak at some point. If you are in a pinch cost wise, there are a couple of working CRTs on eBay right now for around $150. Eddie Voland (see Reatta resources thread at top of forum) rebuilds them, but that runs $250. Other vendors here sell working used and rebuilt CRTs at varying price points. Based on what you are describing, I don't think it's a CPS failure. The CPS is located up under the dash on the drivers side closer to the center console and is a natural aluminum color encased module about 3x4 inches and about an inch thick. Has a black and silver decal on the front, and is secured with two screws. The black plastic hush panel under the driver side dash needs to be removed the access it. While there are a bunch of wires in its connector, there are only three circuits: 12vdc, 7vdc and ground, and each is output redundantly on multiple wires. If you measure both voltages with a meter, then the CPS is good. Only other advice I can give is to fill the tank every couple of days as insurance until you get working gauges. Of course, driving with no Speedo and no visible readout on the CRT has its own risks, but is doable of you are careful. If you are getting average mileage, you'll get about 200-250 miles per tank in mixed highway/city driving. With no odometer though, you're guessing at that too.
  8. Thinking about it now, I did them from underneath as that's how I had to do them on my Cadillac. Not sure I even tried doing them from the top side on a Reatta, as I assumed they would be too difficult to get out that way. I know there was no way to do them from above on a 95 deville with a 4.9, and the cradle and engine bay inside dimensions on a Reatta are nearly the same as the Caddy.
  9. Yeah, I do then from underneath, remove the o2 sensor and usually use a u-joint on the socket wrench.
  10. I can understand moderating posts that get too far out of line, though where that line is is subject to debate. I don't much care for chucking entire threads down the memory hole just to prevent someone from getting their ego bruised. We're adults here, if someone is troubled by this discussion, use your back button and find a less distressing thread to read. Another reason to keep threads like this up, even if locked, is so those posting junk aren't given cover to deny or reframe what they said later on. That essentially gives them a pass as the dubious claims and false - or at least unverifiable information - remains only as a memory to those who happened to see it prior to removal, and that fades with the passage of time. Why sanitize the content here to the benefit of a liar? As I see it, if you publicly post something with intent to deceive, you should have to own it, not have it swept under the rug. Why should anyone but the guilty party be offended by that? I've already detailed my position on this. I'd not have had anything further to say on the original subject of this post made by Panama Jake barring the presentation of real proof of this cars existence, at which point I'd have graciously thanked him for settling the issue to our collective benefit and satisfaction. But, then someone had to show up here and make a post running pretty much the same line of tripe - with a few added details but yet again no proof - we've been presented with numerous times before. I don't believe you, so you'll have to do much better than that. After years of this recurring subject getting no where, I'm tired of beating around the bush so I handed down an ultimatum: prove it or bugger off, and I mean it. Stating you have something but in the same breath proclaiming arrogantly that you will not provide any satisfactory evidence of same is a punk move intended to do nothing but tweak everyone reading it, and it worked just like every other time it's been done. Let that post stand so we can all go back and read it and laugh at the troll the next time this subject gets broached, because it is inevitable it will happen again. Now that the mystery poster claiming to be the actual owner of this car has gotten their yucks, they can either be content to be publicly regarded as a liar or they can back their claims up with a set of photos (to include the VIN and custom embroidery) and a legible shot of the title with their name and address obscured if they so wish. Anything less and they can pack it in, game over.
  11. Can't threads be locked here and remain readable? No need to delete it. If individual posts are out of line, then pull those. If the whole thread goes in the can, this'll crop up again. Yeah, it probably will anyway. But I vote for keeping the thread, even if no proof is presented and it has to be selectively moderated and locked. It will serve as background for any future reoccurence of this matter. If it's supposed to be a joke, lock it and retitle it "how to fail at pulling an April fools gag".
  12. Transmission clunk

    I'll echo Dave's advice on hoses. At 30 years old, give or take, all rubber vacuum hoses should be replaced. They are dry and hardened and you will have problems, probably when most inconvenient. I have shotgunned almost all the rubber vacuum hose in all my cars by now, and have replaced most of the rigid plastic vacuum line in the engine bay as well. And it goes without saying that all radiator and heater hoses are regular maintenance items that should long since have had the original factory parts replaced (unless needed for judging purposes) on any car that will be driven routinely.
  13. Reatta sighting on TV

    Ronnie, it has less to do with your hardware or taking it direct of the screen than the lighting of the setting in which the car was filmed. Look at the the streetlight. Low pressure sodium bulb in the streetlamp=orange tinted light. Put a blue car under it and will look a bit greenish. The same effect would be seen on a black car, to a lesser extent. Even with the motion smear, there's no mistaking that those are 5 spoke wheels, so not 91 style rims. Not that any of this really matters, it's just nice to see someone chose a Reatta for a few seconds of screen time. When's the last time that happened? Probably 20 years or more ago now in any mainstream production that got decent exposure. And no, YouTube vids don't count.
  14. Dave, I'll take the cotrary position. An April fools gag is supposed to be just plausible enough to hook the unsuspecting into believing the setup so you can make them look stupid when the gag gets revealed. If this is an attempt at an April fools gag then it sucks because - at this point - there is no believability in it from the get go. Nobody who is a regular posting long term member here and knows the history of discussion on this subject is buying this setup, if that's what it is. So, if, on April first our new mystery poster shows up and posts "April fools", they get no props, because the only fool is the one who tried to pass of an obviously bogus story. Better luck next time, you have a whole year now to try and find a way to impress me. Remember, I work in plumbing. I've seen a septic tank before the pump truck shows up. This story looks - and smells - like the contents thereof. So, if this was an April fools gag with a 40 day long setup (and note that I gave up listening to idiots for Lent) it's an abject failure. If it is a troll, then I've called them out already and the ball is in their court. And if it's legit, then put up or shut up. Those are the only three possible outcomes. I'll not entertain any further prevarication by some low post count clown show. Yes I'm in an uncharitable mood tonight and I'm not cutting any slack on this. If someone thinks they're being cute and funny, you done failed son. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it. That goes double if someone is gonna try to come in here and stink the place up with dubious claims they refuse to back up.
  15. Let's see, new member, first post, on the cusp of April fools day? Yeah. Buck up with pictures and quit being a tease. Worried we'll pick the car apart? Why? That's an awfully convenient excuse not to post pictures. What we will gladly pick apart here are claims that won't be backed up with actual proof because "reasons". You have a clear Michigan title? Ok, why have none of the assigned but unbuilt VINS ever shown up as registered - anywhere? No way there were 34 cars built that have never been titled in any state. If they existed and have been titled, carfax will show entires on at least some of them at some time. And don't tell us they are all in dealer hands and never sold and titled by retail buyers. Too convenient, and again an excuse to obfuscate. All this about special builds and the craft centre accomodating custom work is superfluous and irrelevant to the matter at hand. It is being claimed here that a heretofore unknown and unfound car with a VIN that was not built (unless proven otherwise as far as I'm concerned) is owned with a clear Michigan title but that no proof will be supplied. Alright then, you had no reason to even post your claim other than to stir the pot. Obvious troll is obvious. And if I'm wrong, I'm man enough to apologize publicly. Anyway, something tells me I won't be eating crow for lunch tomorrow. Your move.