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KDirk last won the day on November 19 2015

KDirk had the most liked content!

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About KDirk

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    St. Louis, Missouri


  • Biography
    A technically minded perfectionist who has found Reattas to be a perfect outlet for applying those characteristics. I also collect and repair vintage Sansui hi-fi gear (from late 1960's to late 1970's primarily) and dabble in pinball machine repairs. I play classical organ and like to mess around with electronic design as it relates to embedded systems. Am a capable mechanic ; and getting better by sheer necessity.

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  1. Dave, as you know I leave front plates (and holders) off my cars. Only been given a verbal warning once in several years, despite front plates being required in MO. Doesn't get much attention, clearly. I noticed some years ago many other cars here lacking front plates, particularly newer cars that are sold with no factory front plate holder. So, I took a calculated risk and it has been ok so far. Has the added benefit of leaving me a spare plate for each car in case something happens (stolen, vandalized, etc.). If it becomes an issue, I'll put them back on. Until then I like the clean look of a plateless front end.
  2. I have a couple in storage with brackets. Neither is in perfect condition but are usable. I'll get them out in the next day or two and see if they are decent enough to sell.
  3. ^^^Yeah, but that only works once the headlamp motors have been rebuilt.
  4. I suspect it is a matter of age and fatigue of the casting from so many mechanical cycles rounding out around the knurlings on the shaft. I suppose this will be yet a other problem we need to deal with as these cars advance in age. Someone who has machining skills and gear might consider offering casting/shaft upgrades as you've engineered here on an exchange basis. Might be a few dollars to be made, as many will not have the skills or tools to roll their own.
  5. Very nice indeed. Surprised the CTS wheels fit, what year are they from? I was of the understanding that the CTS had a different bolt pattern, but that may be true of more recent models.. Anyway, I like the look.
  6. Ok, looking right now at both the 88 and 89 FSM final edition, page 1B1-14 full page diagram, figure 17, both matches the page you posted from your 89 final edition. I do see that either the legend was type set again or the frame around the legend was enlarged slightly for 89 as in comparing the two, there is more margin at the bottom edge of the page on the 88 version than 89. Otherwise, everything is identical including the illustration ID number H60400-1B-EK. Note that last bit, EK, denotes the platforms to which the illustration was applicable. Bohh E and K platofrms in this case. The Cadillac Seville was built on the K platform, FWIW, and the Deville moved to the K platform in 94. I do have a 90 manual (final) but is mislaid preseneltly. Will try to turn it up and compare to 88 and 89. I'd say 2seater must have posted from a 90 manual, or from one of the preliminary editions given the different diagram. We will get this cleared up one way or another. The 91 FSM has a fully revised diagram that shows the updated component locations and is on a different page, has a different figure number and illustration ID number. Edit: found The 90 FSM. Diagram on page 1B1-5 matches what 2Seater posted. That said, 1B1-5 is a right hand page, and his photo looks like it is on the left. Illustration ID number is L63000-1B1-E-R1.
  7. Dave's instructions get you access to the BCM, shown in the picture 89RDG posted above. The ECM is mounted vertically under the dash, down and rightward of the glove box and has its connections facing downward towards the floor pan. It is held in by a torx head screw through a plastic bracket that is bolted to the corner of the ECM housing. It is difficult to get out, and will require removal of the hush panel under the dash, the vacuum manifold and harness from the HVAC programmer module, disconnect the three harness plugs and then it has to be pulled down and out. The floor carpeting where it wraps up the rocker forward of the door opening tends to get in the way. If swapping the BCM, make absolutely sure you swap the EEPROM under the service cover as this stores the vehicles VIN, option programming and odometer. This is socketed in a plastic chip carrier with thumb tabs for east removal. Also need to swap the PROM that calibrates the module to the application (year, make and model) as it isn't usually supplied with the replacement module.
  8. Keep in mind too that some illustrations were reused from similar car models. The E platform in which the Reatta and Riviera was built also encompassed the Eldorado and Toronado/Trofeo. Closely related was the C platform that the 85-93 Cadillac Deville was built on. Having owned a 91 and a 95 Deville, and seeing the similarities both in the cars mechanical and suspension systems to the Reatta (less so in the electrical and body of course) as well as the factory manuals, I can tell you that GM recycled some illustrations from the other E and C platform cars. Remember too that the Reatta was largely derived from the Riviera that debuted in 1986, and save for the change from the older 3.8l engine to the first iteration called 3800 in 1988, most of the under hood setup was pretty close to the 86/87. Point being that some of these illustrations were almost certainly 86/87 versions, and could have been retouched for expected changes. However, these may not reflect final production design depending on what point in development they were drafted. Worth noting also that I'm fairly certain these illustrations were all hand drafted. While CAD was definitely available (and used by GM) in the mid 80's, this was still a transitional period where conventional drafting was heavily used. All in all, I think they did a passable job. There are always inconsistencies in a service manual of this scope, and running changes are almost never added except by addendum (if even that). 30 years on, nearly nobody has a complete volume of the updates and bulletins that were issued. All this gets back the point that a good seat of the pants troubleshooter will always be needed. Either you have that skill or you don't. I think it can be learned, but there is a certain innate skill needed to develop and exploit that ability fully. Some people just can't think that way from my observations.
  9. FWIW, the 91 system is laid out differently with the accumulator mounted in front of the engine up near the coolant resovoir. Line set is different as a result, but functionally is identical.
  10. An error in the FSM? I'm shocked, absolutely shocked, I tell you. I've noted a number of mess ups in there. For what they were, and th relative complexity of these manuals, I can cut some slack. But, accuracy - especially in some illustrations - could have been better.
  11. I've not tackled the temp sensor issues yet as I've not had a need to. That said, the thermistor doesn't appear to be anything special. Provided a proper resistance range can be determined (probably need a NOS part to accurately test min and max resistance at temperature extremes) I can't imagine a new bare thermistor couldn't be sourced and attached to the existing sensor body, thereby rebuilding the sensor. Anyone know if there is a published spec - perhaps in the FSM - on what the min/max resistance was on this part? That would make sourcing a new thermistor element for this purpose a lot easier. Or, if someone has a currently perfectly operating system on their car, pull resistance readings from it at full cold and with engine at ambient temp (after car has not run in several hours). My 88s both work but I think both are slightly off spec, and thus probably not a good base reference point for this purpose. KD
  12. Glass is fused to the top at manufacture and not really possible to reattach (in any permanent way) the glass to the fabric. As well, the vinyl tops shrink with age making it even harder to try and put the window back on with some sort of adhesive. A new top is really the only recommendation I can make. I did my own (first - and so far only - top I ever did) and it turned out nice. But, it requires several special tools, meticulous attention to detail and a lot of patience. Not a project for a neophyte, I'd say. Figure about $800-900 for the top and another several hundred in labor to install by a shop. KD
  13. Regarding the third brake light in coupes (not convertibles) the stock bulb is an 1141 (two of these). This is a smaller, lower output version of an 1156, to lessen the heat on the plastic lens and housing. Many LED bulbs will be sold as "1141/1156" as they fit both applications, and since the LED bulbs run cooler, using one labeled 1156 is ok. Do not use incandescent 1156 bulbs in the third brake light in any circumstance , as they run too hot. Also, with LED slide in wedge base lamps like type 194, you will need to observe polarity as you are on a DC circuit. If an LED lamp won't light, flip it 180° in the socket and that will usually solve the problem.
  14. ^ That last sentence being a more eloquent expression of my own frustration with having noted the same. Some people (an ever decreasing number it seems) do a job well and take pride in having done so. Some do just enough to get the paycheck. And some are warm bodies occupying a chair and because of a lack of effective oversight - and concern on their own part - crank out useless garbage and still manage to get paid. This latter category is killing us as a country and yet they seem to be the dominant contingent now. Anyway, I know I'd buy a couple if a verifiably correct part can be produced out of this snafu. So, I'm waiting to see the final outcome of all this.
  15. Ok, how much would you want to make a second one (material and labor to fabricate)? And that's a serious question. This looks very good, and while not beyond my own fabrication skills, is beyond the time I have available to do so for the foreseeable future. If you would be willing to fab one up, PM me and we can discuss further.