MochetVelo

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Everything posted by MochetVelo

  1. I see you haven't gotten a response, Andrew. I believe the manual says the tubes are 3/4" high. Not sure why yours are longer. You can just cut them to size. I think others have installed seals to prevent oil release out the front bearing. This must have been a problem from the start, as Hupmobile installed a sheet metal cover to keep oil off the hood. I thought of attaching some of that "pig mat" absorbent cloth under this cover. Phil
  2. After a letter, 5 emails, and 4 phone messages, I finally got a reply from the seller. She seems agreeable to help with the title. I found a good title service in Texas: Auto Title Recovery in Lumberton, Texas. Terri Gloebe there answered my questions promptly via email (and on a Sunday). The bottom line: the simplest way is to get the seller to put the title in her name, then transfer it to me. Of course, I should have done that when I bought the car. A new Texas title can also be obtained with an inspection in Texas. Anyway, the seller agreed to help me... in September. She's "overloaded" as an executor of her mother's estate, so I guess I'm waiting. The other option in PA is to file in court a "Motion for Involuntary Transfer of Vehicle Ownership." This can be done by an enterprising citizen. I hired a lawyer to do it for me with my title-less 1906 Maxwell. It ended up costing about $600. Title law is primarily concerned with new and used cars. Antique vehicles are little understood or appreciated by state bureaucracies, so we must just muddle through. Phil
  3. I bought a 1909 Hupmobile in Texas in 2013. The seller, the daughter of the deceased owner, gave me a bill of sale and the 1965 Texas title to the car. All well so far, but her deceased father never transferred the title to his name, though he owned the car for many years. My state (PA) won't give me a PA title because the daughter's name isn't on the Texas title. Will it be difficult for the daughter to transfer the Texas title to her name? I'm hoping Texas might be a bit more lenient than PA. Can anyone offer some advice? Phil
  4. Yes that's PennDOT's view, Ted. That's why I'm hoping she can get it transferred to her name. I often wonder how people who buy an old title at a flea market are able to get it assigned to their car. Phil
  5. Thanks for the replies. The lady who sold me the car gave me a Texas title. It's the correct title for the car (with matching VIN), but her late father never transferred the title to his name when he bought the car in the '70s. The problem is her name on the Bill of Sale she gave me doesn't match the name on the title. When I applied for a PA title, I sent PennDOT the 6% sales tax due on the purchase. They denied me the title but (naturally) kept my money. I thought I was in the clear with this car, as it had a title, unlike some others I've owned! Will the lady help me? I'll post what happens. Phil
  6. I'll see what happens. So far, the daughter hasn't responded. I'm hoping she can do this since Dad never got the title in his name. Phil
  7. Around here, you're lucky to go 45mph at rush hour.
  8. Not sure if you could go 80-100mph on a "crowded" highway.
  9. Frustrated with difficulty starting, I finally bit the bullet and brought my 1911 Torpedo to our local oldies garage (Last Chance Garage, Unionville, PA). It made the 10-mile trip last week on a roll-off (cost $80). I included the Book of Instructions and Breeze manual for the mechanics to read. A few days later, I got a call that they had it running. The basic problem: the plugs firing in the wrong order. Now, while admittedly ignorant, I swear I referred to the Book numerous times to be sure I had the wires running correctly. However, I guess I got it wrong. They also played with the Breeze carb for a long time. It's apparently not only running, but driving with pretty decent power, I'm told. Anyway, I'll test it out myself in a couple days. I do have a question concerning the carburetor: I know the Breeze is the correct one, but is it possible to install a Holley NH without chopping off the intake manifold? One Hupp guy told me this could be done with an adapter. It might be interesting to have the Holley as an option. Phil
  10. Took the Hupp on a small tour today: to the local garage for an inspection required by the state (PA), then drove it to my friend's garage; maybe 2 miles. It starts like a dream: a couple pulls with the mag off to charge the cylinders, then it starts right up. I reduced the gear grinding by double-shifting to second. The car seems to have pretty good power, but no steep hills attempted yet. The foot brake does stop the car, but slowly. Also, I think the car must move to avoid to boiling coolant. I do have a question concerning the clutch: should it totally disengage the engine from the transmission, like shifting to neutral? My clutch works well enough to shift gears, but seems to have a slight drag, not unlike a Model T Ford. Phil
  11. I mistakenly posted this on the Maxwell Forum, though this is a Hupmobile. Thanks for the reply anyway. I've no experience with double-clutching, but I do know the principle. Time to practice! Phil
  12. My first real drive in the Hupmobile was about a half-mile to the garage. It wasn't for repair, but for an "Enhanced Inspection." The 1964 Texas title contained the poisonous word "rebuilt", which my state (Pennsylvania) interpreted to mean "hot rod". Anyway, I had to have the car inspected by a special garage ($150) to prove it is the real thing. This was an opportunity to take the car out, other than in a parking lot. It started right up, the clutch works well, and it seems to have good power... at least on the straightaway. One question I have is: how hot is too hot in the radiator? It was too hot to touch, but it wasn't steaming. Also, do you double-clutch the gears or just throw it into the next gear like they say in the Book of Instructions? Phil
  13. I'm just guessing the year, but a nice photo with a Maxwell Model L in front. There were several cars called "American". Not sure which one this dealer sells.
  14. Every two years, the fast old cars gather at the Montlhery Autodrome about 15 miles SW of Paris. It was wet this year, but enthusiastic. Phil
  15. You can buy heavy-duty stretch wrap and mummify the car (up to 120 gauge) or shrink-wrap like they use on boats. You need a heat gun to use the shrink wrap. You can even purchase a vent and an access door for the shrink wrap. I use Uline. They deliver the next day in my area. Phil
  16. Here is an article on magneto timing that may be of interest to early car owners. Phil
  17. I have my Hupp starting pretty dependably with the Breeze (which was rebuilt at the same time as Karl's). I still must master the air valve setting. I observe, however, that the carb drips about a tablespoon or two of gasoline from the bottom manifold opening when the engine is shut off. The drips slow and then stop, but I wonder what causes this. Also, I wonder what the low idle speed of the Hupp is. I'm thinking mine might be set a bit high. Finally, is there any instance where the bottom plug should be used in the intake manifold? I've never installed one. Phil
  18. What fuel filter works with gravity-flow fuel system (ie, no fuel pump)? Phil
  19. I eliminated the filter and it various fittings and joined the 3/8" line from the tank to the 1/4" line to the carburetor with a 3/8" fuel hose. The compression rings on the two copper tubes act as "barbs" to seal the hose. It may not look original, but the fuel flows freely, and the engine started right up. Phil
  20. My Hupmobile Model 20 came fitted with a glass-bowl-type fuel filter. I took the filter element out to allow better fuel flow, but it has so many fittings that it leaks. I'm considering connecting the fuel line directly to the Breeze carburetor. It now has a 3/8" fuel line from the tank and a 1/4" line to the carb. I hear that in-line fuel filters are too restrictive for the gravity-flow fuel systems. How do other owners do this? Phil
  21. I'll take one! Phil
  22. David... Do you run a 3/8" line directly to the carb, or do you reduce to 1/4"? My fuel tank is original, but it looks clean, so I'm thinking I can eliminate the filter. Phil
  23. I got an email from David Peck, the guy who rehabbed the old Duryea factory in Springfield, Mass for his dental office. Steve Moskowitz sent him one of our AACA logos (depicting a Duryea) to hang on his wall a few years back, and Dr. Peck would like to do more to commemorate the location. Any ideas? You can take a look at what they've done to the 4th floor here (one of the cooler dental offices I've seen!). I doubt there's a Duryea Club, but maybe someone can help! Phil Here's his email: Its been over 3 years since your last email. Is there a Duryea Club or anything like that? And are there any models that still run that could be displayed if we had an event? The city of Springfield is rebuilding Duryea Way which is next to our building and there will be an event to celebrate the renovation of the way. Dr. David Peck drdpeck@me.com
  24. The Model T Ford gets 50-55 ft lbs torque. I think they are 5/8". I assume your 7/16" bolts would be a bit less; perhaps 40-45? They didn't use torque specs in 1922; just sort of did it by "feel". Be sure to re-torque your bolts after running the car for a while. Phil