• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Ronnie

  1. Good video. That guy is speaking my language. I actually sound a lot like him. I can act as an interpreter if anyone has trouble understanding him.
  2. Is you start grinding on the flange to reduce the diameter I think you will find that the flange is actually two pieces (top and bottom sections) that are spot welded and/or crimped together. If that is the case, enough grinding on the perimeter of the flange will cause the two parts to separate and release the guts guts of the thermostat. I hope you do find a solution so we can use a 170* thermostat.
  3. I've been watching this thread with interest. I hope the 170* thermostat works in our 3800 engines. I think it is what I would like to have in my car. I have a 160^ thermostat in my car and fan controls that turn the fans on high at 190* and off at 176*. It has been that way for years. On the average summer day (that is when I do 90% of my driving) my engine runs at about 165-170 degrees at highway speeds. The converter locks up in my '88 model at about 140*. The engine goes into closed loop at about 158-159 degrees. The converter locking above 140 degrees might be unique to my car or to '88 models. I don't know. If I drive when the outside temperature is below about 45-50 degrees the thermostat will not maintain 160* to keep the engine warm enough for closed loop when moving at highway speeds. It hovers around 157-159*. I can tell gas mileage suffers. However, I can't feel a drop in performance of the engine in open loop. Rarely do I drive when the outside temperate is that low so it's not a problem for me. If someone drove in cold weather all the time it might be a problem. Perhaps an overly rich mixture for extended periods would be hard on the cat converter? The cooling system on the Reatta is more than capable of keeping the 3800 cool if it is in good condition - even when sitting still in traffic. My car never goes over 190* in bumper to bumper traffic for miles with the 160* thermostat and the fan control setup I have. I'm very happy with the engine cooling I have other than it dropping down to low in really cold weather.
  4. My car has a smell of gas a lot of times when I first start it up. Always has. I figured it was a combination of the converter not being heated up to burn off any raw gas and the ECM not being in closed loop so the O2 isn't making optimum adjustments to the mixture. I never notice it inside with the windows up but if I'm outside the car or the windows are down I smell it. I think the direction the wind is blowing the exhaust from the tailpipe is a factor to.
  5. I'm a firm believer in that too. My car has a 160 degree thermostat and a Hayden fan controller that cycles the fans on high at 190 degrees and back off at 176 degrees. It works great at cooling the engine when sitting in still in at traffic lights and the AC seems to work better under those conditions too. I have discovered that the 160 degree thermostat has one drawback. It is too low for driving in cold weather. The engine has to reach 158-159 degrees to go into closed loop operation. At highway speeds in cold weather the 160 degree thermostat has a hard time maintaining that temperature.. That's not a problem for me because I rarely get my car out in cold weather. A 180 degree thermostat would be a better choice for most people.
  6. I have these on order to do the '90 headlight relay upgrade on my '88. I may use one of them to do the taillights the way you describe at the same time. I have the taillights burning anytime I'm driving while I only use the headlights occasionally.
  7. I think you are correct although when I first came on the forum it was recommended that I use WD-40 to fix a switch with sticking buttons that wouldn't hardly turn off the lights. It worked for me but I guess it was beginner's luck that I didn't have problems. My switch has worked perfectly since then.
  8. When I look at the OP's photos it tells me we should all use some Deoxit on the headlight switch connections. The reason I say that is because the problem appears to be a bad connection between the switch and connector pins instead of an internal problem. Resistance from a bad connection can generate that kind of heat under a heavy load. Even though I think it is expensive for what you get, DeOxit is good stuff that can insure a good connection in situations like this. I'm going to use it to clean my headlight switch connections today.
  9. Sorry for butting in but I thought you might find this helpful.
  10. Please post what you did when you get time. I was just looking at the schematics today to figure out how to add the relay. I actually have a rough sketch laying on my desk right now but knowing where to find all the wires would be helpful. You could probably save me a lot of time. I rarely use my headlights but I would like to take the load off the switch when I do.
  11. For the people with an '88 model - a pigtail like Dave's won't work. The fan controls are not the same as later models. If you want to run your fans on high whenever the low speed fan comes on all you have to do is install a jumper across the resistor shown in the photo below. I've had mine done that way for years with no problems. I intended to go back and do a little neater job on the installation but I never seem to get it done.
  12. Thanks for cutting up your pigtail so we know what's inside that makes it work.
  13. I don't yet understand how but I'm thinking the ECM is detecting an unexpected ground condition on pin B (telling it both low and high speed fans are running) when the jumper is installed without the resistor, and you are driving at speed. I don't know for sure, but I don't think the ECM would ever run the fans on high when ample air is flowing though the radiator at highway speeds. The reason it is hard for you to find a pattern is because it may also take into account engine temp and ambient air temp??
  14. This is the location of the connector C107 that Dave connected to (I think)..
  15. I will post a photo of the location of the connector in a few minutes.
  16. Hum. I'll have to look at the schematic again to see if I can figure out why the resistance was needed. According to the color code on the resistors each one is a 68 ohms. When you tie them in parallel like that the meter will read 34 ohms total resistance. BTW, The shape of the connectors he used, and the location where you installed the pigtail, tells me the pigtail connects to the control circuit of the relays. In other words it connects between the ECM and the fan relay coils and not on the power side (contacts) of the relays. The resistors are used to fool the ECM to keep it from throwing a code 26 and David mentioned earlier.
  17. Below are Dave's photos. I've cropped them to get a closeup view. I'm surprised just to see two resistors in parallel. I was really expecting to see a diode in there too. Dave, in the first photo, the shrink tubing that you haven't removed seems to be a little thicker under your fingertip than what is around the wire. Could there be something else in that thicker area?
  18. When you enlarge the photo there appears to be two components connected in parallel under the shrink wrap. One appears to be the shape of a small resistor. The other one could be another resistor, a diode, or a reed switch. It's hard to tell without actually seeing the components. If there are two components, just testing with a meter may not tell you want you need to know to make another pigtail. This is just speculation but I think what he did was use the ECM ground signal (connector pin A ) for the low speed fan relay to pickup both the low fan relay and the high fan relays at the same time via the red jumper wire in the pigtail. When the engine temp reaches a certain point the ECM provides another ground signal (connector pin B ) to run the fans on high speed.. Simply connecting pin A and pin B together would probably cause a problem of either the ECM throwing a code E026 or interfere with the cooling fan relays working as intended when the pigtail is installed. Therefore there needed to be some minor electrical modification made to the red jumper. I think we really need to know what is under the shrink tubing to get to the bottom of this. My hat is off to Mc_Reatta for figuring all this out and taking the time to make the pigtails.
  19. Below are photos of the fan modification lead that Mc_Reatta made for Dave.
  20. It has been a while since I swapped mine out but it was pretty simple. The connector plugs right in. You have to re-route the wires a little differently around the coils to get them to fit properly. The wires length on my '88 was a little longer if I remember correctly. Easy job really.
  21. Seems like an easy way to measure the amount of fluid stored in the accumulator - with it on the car - would be to: Install the accumulator ball you want to test Make sure the fluid level in the reservoir is exactly on the full mark (or a better mark you want to make yourself) Turn on the pump and let it run until it stops. Then fill the reservoir back up to the full mark using a container calibrated in CCs or MLs like Hal described earlier. That would allow you to keep track of the amount of fluid you have to add to bring the fluid back up to the full mark. Reading the amount of fluid removed from the calibrated container would tell you how much fluid is stored in the accumulator ball on the car with it under normal operating conditions.
  22. I can understand that to a point but I don't think it can be used as a rule of thumb for determining if an accumulator is completely bad. Weak maybe. Here is an example of why I say that: - Last year I talked with an 80 year old Reatta owner at a small car show in Spring City, TN. He told me both his brake warning lights would "flicker" when he first hit his brakes but the car was stopping fine. He told me he had talked with a Reatta parts vendor that had diagnosed the problem over the phone (not Jim) and was told he needed a rear ABS wheel sensor lead. He ordered the wheel sensor but hadn't yet installed it. He asked me if I could help. When I looked under the hood I noticed the fluid level in the reservoir was right on the full mark. I thought that was odd since he had driven the car to the show only about 30 minutes earlier. I thought the level should have been down some at that point. I asked him to pump the brakes 25 times and the fluid level moved up slightly but stayed basically the same. When he turned the key on and the pump ran, the fluid level stayed on the full mark and the lights went out. I knew that wasn't right. After some thought I came to a logical reason for that. - The bladder in the accumulator had ruptured and the accumulator had completely filled with fluid on both sides of the bladder. All the nitrogen had been pushed out over time and replaced by fluid. Since fluid won't compress there was no pressure stored in the accumulator to push the fluid out when he pumped the pedal 25 times. When he turned the key on, causing the pump to start, it only ran a couple of seconds and cut off because the accumulator was already full. The next week I went to his house and installed a good used accumulator I had on hand and his brake system started working normally again with no flickering warning lights. The fluid level dropped as it should. He was very happy about getting his car fixed. He gave me the wheel sensor lead he had ordered so we were both happy. We emptied the contents of the accumulator into a Dixie cup. As far as we could tell the accumulator was completely full of fluid. That is when I got the idea to stick a coat hanger into the hole in the accumulator to see if I could fee the bladder. There was no resistance at all until it bottomed out. The bladder must have been pushed up against the dome of the accumulator. At any rate, I want the accumulator test tutorial to be as easy and accurate as we can make it. Just let me know what it should say and I will make the changes on ROJ.
  23. Barney, I'm trying to wrap my head around what you are saying. " Should be 1/2 or more..... " I'm sure you are probably right but it just isn't soaking in for me. The statement......If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is on its last legs. ... to me is saying: "If the fluid level in the reservoir does not drop at least 1/2" when the pump fills the accumulator, then the accumulator is bad.(already full of fluid)" It would seem that would still be true if a slightly larger accumulator was installed because the fluid level in the reservoir would drop even more if you had to fill a larger accumulator.. Would it be clearer if it said: "The fluid level in the reservoir should drop 1/2" or more. If it doesn't your accumulator may be bad. or getting weak"? I will be happy to change it to whatever wording makes the most sense. Just let me know how you think it should be worded. Along these same lines, I have been thinking of including a bench test procedure to help determine if an accumulator is bad by inserting a thin blunt ended rod into the hole in the accumulator to see if the bladder can be felt and/or pushed back. I did the test on my old accumulator that is known to bad and found that the rod goes deeply into it without resistance. On my good accumulator the rod stops just a short distance inside the hole when it touches the pressurized bladder. Do you think that would be a useful test to add to the tutorial?