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Everything posted by Ronnie

  1. This is what I use and it works pretty well. I didn't have any luck finding a plastic jug that would fit on the end of it..
  2. Instead of emailing him try using the Private Message system built into the forum. Place your mouse over his username on the forum - when a box pops up click on "Message" at the bottom of the box.
  3. The reason he thinks they are too long is probably because he is installing them incorrectly: Hood Strut Replacement Instructions
  4. Thanks Matt. You are probably right. I didn't click on the link and I didn't post it so anyone else could. I posted about the email here to see if anyone else was getting similar emails but it seems from the responses that I'm the only one. Maybe it is a legit AACA email that I got because the system detected a problem with someone trying to sign in to my account. I just don't want to get locked out of my account permanently.
  5. I received an email that appears to be from the AACA today that seems odd to me. The subject of the email is: "Your account has been locked for security reasons". Obviously my account isn't locked. Is this a legitimate email sent from the AACA forum or a scam? Below is the body of the email. I have excluded a link the email contained that directs me to a website to change my password.
  6. I guess I'm a little paranoid right now but I don't think I want to publicly post all the detailed information about the transmission of my emails here on the forum. I will pass it on to a forum administrator in private if requested.
  7. That thing reminds me of a derrick I worked on at the railroad. It had originally been powered by steam and later converted to a diesel engine for power.
  8. Thanks for the laughs. I loved that video too!
  9. Yes, it can be done. I've never seen it done with a pry bar like he did. I've used a flexible piece of nylon to run it around the crankshaft after tapping on it to get it moving. Loosening all the main cap bolts slightly before changing the shell makes it easier.
  10. I love it! Thanks for posting. I've not laughed so much in a long time.
  11. I like the sub-titles. Below is one of my favorite parts of the video.
  12. John, Try inserting the link below into your signature line. (Be sure to copy it all together. It's really long.) I think the link you have been using is to the page where the image is located instead of the just the photo. This is what you should see.
  13. You can't just insert the URL you copied into the signature line to get the photo to display. You have to use the "insert other media" button (see photo below). Click where the red arrow is pointing - then insert the URL you copied into the next box that pops up.
  14. Since Saturday several people have offered you suggestions, ideas and even drawings to try and help you find a way to lower your car. I'm surprised that this is your response to all that. I must be missing something.
  15. I think you may be taking the wrong approach to lowering the Reatta in the rear by modifying the spring. If it were me I would be looking at how to move part #7 up higher on part #6 in the diagram below. That way you avoid changing the geometry of the rear suspension and all the other problems that can pop up - like running out of shock travel, camber that can't be corrected, spring breaking and you name it.. If you take part #6 and #7 to a good machine shop and explain what you want to do, they could possibly make an adapter - or modify part #6 - so you could bolt the spindles on higher up which will drop the car. It would have to be done a way that would move both the spindle and the brake parts up to keep them in alignment. I've had dropped spindles on the front of my '99 S10 Blazer for 10 years. I've had no problems with alignment or otherwise. I was able to buy the drop spindles for my Blazer but with a little engineering and a good machinist I think something could be made for the Reatta that would drop it. Going this route would be a lot less work for you than changing how the spring mounts although it might be more expensive. I don't like the idea of modifying a spring
  16. Sorry, I'm not sold on the idea that this is a suitable replacement part for several reasons. 1), Too much difference in the L bracket that holds the pump in place. 2), Too much offset between the pump and the opening where the pump goes in. 3), Can anyone confirm that the resistance range of the sender matches the range of the Reatta sender? I'm not knocking the effort put into this. We need more of this if we are going to keep our Reattas on the road. This part might be a good starting point to cobble something together that would work. The price is certainly cheap enough. If someone uses it with success please let me know.
  17. The forums are extremely slow today. This isn't likely to be an AACA problem or a forum software problem. The Main AACA website is slow and it runs on a completely different software. It is most likely a problem with the server that hosts the forum - something that is probably out of Peter's control. He will have to work that out with the hosting company. I don't understand why anyone would quit paying membership dues or leave the best car forum on the internet because of a technical issue. I'm sure Peter is working hard to get it resolved.
  18. My3Buicks? If so welcome back!
  19. Welcome to the forum. This monster fit in the dash of a Reatta? Show us some photos of the installation.
  20. Re-seating all the BCM connectors might fix it. Spray with some DeOxIt while you have them off.
  21. If you feel the BCM is causing the problem you should buy one that is known to be good and see if that solves the problem. Then experiment with the old one to see if you can find the problem with it. It's always good to have a spare. OR you could ground the circuit right at the relay, bypassing the BCM, then drive the car and see if the relays still chatters. That would tell you if the problem is the BCM, the relay ground circuit, or the circuit that supplies power to the relay...
  22. I put an '89 glove box in my '88 because my wife and I didn't like using the button on the console to open the door. (Thanks Dave!) We like the latch on the outside much better but the '89 box is much smaller inside so my '88 owners manual won't fit it. The '89 owners manual must be smaller. That doesn't matter to me because I keep my FSM in the compartment behind the seat. I don't know how hard it would be to put a '88 glove box in a later model. Putting an '89 glove box into my '88 wasn't a simple swap like I thought it would be. As you can see in the photo below, compared to my previous photo the boxes are completely different. The '89 box normally has two support arms. I had to remove the door support arm on the left because the '88 dash is not made with a space for it to clear inside the dash when the door is closed. I also had to cover the space where the buttons were located with some gray carpet that doesn't match perfectly but that's not a big deal. I think it would be even harder to put a '88 box in a '90 model. I suspect the dash opening is made completely different where the box goes in compared to the '88 model. It could be done. Just don't plan on it being an easy swap.
  23. The part he needs is attached to the door (yellow arrow) The electric latch actuator is attached to the glove box (circled in red).
  24. If the BCM is causing the problem relay J should be chattering when relay H chatters. They are both grounded by the BCM on the same circuit to pick them up. The next time it happens, turn on the courtesy light in the mirror and see if it's flickering when the relay is chattering. Usually a relay chatters because it isn't getting enough current to keep it picked up. That could be caused by a poor ground circuit or power circuit. If it were me I would replace RAP circuit breaker #25 and make sure it is clean and tight in the socket.
  25. Everyone should drive the Tail of the Dragon at least once if they get the chance. I live relatively close to it. I've driven it several times in my Reatta. When my wife goes she stays on me the whole time for going around the curves to fast. When my daughter and I go we have a blast because she likes to take the curves fast. On busy weekends the motorcycles scare me. They will pass your car on the inside of the curves or anywhere else. Some of them think they are in a race. The last time me and my daughter went we came upon the scene of an accident being worked by the police. That night on the news we learned that a motorcycle had hit another bike in the rear and they went down a steep embankment. One rider died and another person was hurt. At the North end of highway 129 (the Dragon) is a road that turns off and goes over the mountain to Townsend, TN called the Foothills Parkway. It is less traveled than the Dragon but it has some beautiful views of the mountains. It is a relaxing, enjoyable drive. It's a lot more laid back and only has gradual curves compared to the Dragon. Not a house or business of any kind along it's 16 miles. Anyone who takes on the Dragon should plan to drive across the Foothills Parkway at the same time. Below is a sample of the views you can expect to see from the Foothills Parkway.