Ronnie

This is good advice. Throwing parts at it and telling us what parts have been changed is expensive and doesn't help us much with troubleshooting your problem. Use the Reatta's onboard diagnostic system to see if you have any trouble codes stored in the ECM. Keep in mind that ignition system problems usually don't set a code in the Reatta's ODB1 system. This will explain how to check the codes on your Reatta without using a scanner. It works just as good as most ODB1 scanners on the market. Reatta Owners Journal - How To Access Diagnostic Codes

I'm moving this topic to the proper place for Forum Questions and Answers.

For whatever reason your phone is adding a lot of extra blank paragraphs to your posts. (see screenshot of the source below) I don't believe that is a forum problem. I took a look at your signature line and there are no extra spaces in it that would cause the problem. The problem has to be something about your phone keyboard not working properly with the forum.

Sounds like it might be out of time when trying to start. Did you change the spark plug wires before you got it started and running by replacing the ECM? If so, perhaps spark plug wires are crossed?

I live in East TN and understand what you are going through. When I look at your footers and the blocks sitting there I have some good advice for you. Put in good drains (dig down below the footers) and don't skimp on waterproofing the blocks before you backfill with dirt. I had a similar garage located in a hillside at my last house and during heavy rains water came in between the floor and block walls. Stopping the water from the inside is all but impossible. Take the time to do it right on the outside now and it will save you a lot of heartache in the future.

What?? You think putting a return spring on the brake pedal is dangerous and a bandaid fix and now you think making modifications like you describe are OK? What happened to your theory that it worked before so it should work now without modifications? Putting shims between the firewall and the booster sounds like a bandaid fix to me. Your bandaids are no better than mine. Remember what you said earlier or have you already forgotten it? "Brakes are not a place to be lazy with, lives do depend on proper operation at all times.."

If you think putting a return spring on a brake pedal is going to make the brakes dangerous you're wrong. The OP asked for something he could do so he could stop spending money on more parts. I offered a solution that should work. Adding a spring wasn't being lazy. It was a logical thing to do in light of all the other things he has already done. If you have a better solution, let's hear it. His car originally had drum brakes and they did have return springs... on the brake shoes. You're analogy of cutting an artery and your big overblown Band-Aid graphic were nonsense and contributed nothing to fixing his problem.

Why not just put a return spring on it and stop beating your head against the wall?

Try an old drag racer's trick and see if it helps prevent dieseling. Instead of cutting key off at idle, rev the engine up and cut the key off while the rpm is high.

Great looking Mustangs! I wish I had some Bullitt wheels like yours on my car. Although I have the premium wheels for 1999 GTs they look like hubcaps.

I'm a big fan of using a clay bar. I don't know that I would use a clay bar on fresh paint, but on old paint, including clear coat finishes, it is amazing the difference it can make. Not only do you see the difference but you can feel a big difference in the paint after using a clay bar. It will make old paint as slick as a baby's butt and get it ready for a good coat of wax by removing contaminants on the surface of the paint that washing just can't remove. It's well worth taking the time to do it.

I recently purchased a 1999 Mustang GT. Just wondering if any people are here that have similar model Mustangs?

Only checked my new-to-me '99 Mustang GT twice since I got it. Driving it easy I got 22 mpg on first tank and 21 mpg on the second. I was expecting more like 15-17 so I was pleasantly surprised.

That's much easier than twisting bolts for sure.

So far what you have posted is commonly called "bench racing". Nothing wrong with it. It seems to be a hobby for a lot of people who visit forums.

I admire you for taking on the job of bringing an old Mercedes back to life. I've done one that didn't need too much work and that was enough. The way Mercedes does things is too far off the beaten path for me. I had a hard time learning to speak Mercedes. I'm going to stick with American made.

I would rotate the tires from front to back and see if the noise goes to the back. If it does that would tell you a tire is the problem.

Add to that list a clean room to be used for engine building and also a partitioned off (or separate) location for a big air compressor so you don't hear the compressor running in the garage. Nothing more annoying than having to listen to a big air compressor kicking on and off all the time.

Seems like a more fitting title would have been, "Junkyard sold with house in the middle of it".

The struts for the rear of your 1990 Riv are the same as a Buick Reatta. They have been discontinued for some time now and are almost impossible to find. East Coast Reatta Parts might still have some.

If it was that simple everyone would be doing it instead of spending $500 on discontinued rear struts.

If you scroll to the bottom of the page you will see why the website exists. They are required by Google and/or Amazon to display this notice in order to earn a commission when you click one of their links.

I suggested lightly holding the brake pedal down to unlock the converter which will keep it unlocked as long as your foot is on the brake pedal. Tapping the pedal only unlocked the converter momentarily and then it locked up again.

I think a trip to the junkyard to pickup a baseplate would be the easiest way to solve the problem.

I like the looks of that radio but seeing very few controls on the face of the radio. I assume you would have to use the remote to operate most of the functions on it. If that is the case, I don't like that about it. I like things to be simple that need to be operated going down the road. I still like knobs and easy to find push buttons instead of menus that you have to look at to operate. That is the reason I like the simple radio in my 2001 GMC pickup truck better than the touchscreen radio in my Chevy Equinox.