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Everything posted by Ronnie

  1. Not an easy way to test it that I'm aware of other than replacing it with one that is known to be good. This tutorial might help someway if you are good at electronics. HVAC Programmer Test
  2. You might find this helpful in your search for a Reatta. What should I check when buying a Reatta?
  3. This photo shows where the blower "power" module is located.
  4. The problem is most likely a bad blower control module. It can cause the blower to run all the time or not at all. The Reatta doesn't use resistors like some other cars.
  5. I guess that is better than a yard rake and it certainly makes your Reatta unique. Did you add that or was it that way when you bought it?
  6. Very nice looking Reatta. What is it that looks like a yard rake sticking out from the front bumper?
  7. David, Good explanation of how the A/C system on the Reatta functions. When searching for the reason my A/C was performing poorly (as a result of the bad low temp sensor) a few years ago it would have been nice to have your explanation in front of me instead of having to figure it on my own by searching the FSM. The A/C, like a lot of the other systems in our Reattas, is complicated. It's always better to have a good overview of how a system works instead of having to start from scratch in the FSM.
  8. It's not just a WIRE. It's a spring that must have tension on it trying to push the trunk lid above the latch. There must be something wrong with the spring preventing it from having tension on it to push the trunk lid up. The problem could be where the spring is coiled around the shaft (on the right side of the photo below) has cam loose on the other end. You might need a new latch
  9. I won't ever admit doing this but it is possible to swap the sensors without loosing all the freon or needing to pull a vacuum on the system. If you do it on a cold day Freon pressure in the system drops dramatically. You could probably do it on a warm day to but a cold day is better. Be prepared to do the swap by having everything you need at hand - including gloves to protect your hands from cold escaping gases. Swap out the sensors while freon is coming out. Moisture can't go into the system while freon is coming out. Once the swap is done recharge and you're ready to go. A guy who lives in East Tennessee did this and it worked well.
  10. I agree. It did take me a lot of trial and error to get the correct resistor to put my sensor back in range where the AC cooled properly. I thought I ended up with a 25 ohm resistor but it must have been a .25 ohm after seeing the numbers 2seater posted. I think your first long post was a little over my head so I missed the point.of what you and 2seater were trying to accomplish. Thanks for posting.
  11. Perhaps the cassette error is preventing the CRT from displaying the controls for the radio? My cassette player doesn't work so I can't confirm.
  12. I know this isn't scientific but if your goal is to determine if the sensors are reading correctly isn't this test sufficient for doing that? A/C Temp Sensor Troubleshooting I thought the goal of the sensor testing was to determine if a sensor was keeping the AC system from cooling properly. It would seem that if you have a half dozen different sensors agreeing on the ambient temperature (after all sensors have equalized overnight) that it could be assumed that they are all reading correctly. If you have one reading, (BD28 for example), that is not in step with the others I think you could assume it is probably bad.
  13. Thanks for pointing this out Barney.
  14. I think you are correct. When you knurl a part it increases the diameter of the part in the knurled area. The shaft,including the knurled surface, was probably made with an automatic screw machine that spit those things out like popcorn. The parts could have been easily pressed together with a small hand operated arbor press since one of the parts was soft metal.
  15. Are you serious about using a propane torch to solder a piece of aluminum to a steel rod and expect it to hold? And are you expecting someone to do this who has problems drilling a hole? I'm not being argumentative. I'm just wanting to know if that is what you are recommending.
  16. If a person had the skills to do all that they could probably drill a hole and drive in a roll pin...
  17. I live about 40 miles west of Knoxville. I think there might be a few Reatta owners in the Nashville area but I don't know how to contact them.
  18. The roll pin is a good fix but not everyone will have the tools and skills to do that. I would think if you cleaned the knurled part of the shaft and gear really well, then applied JB Weld before pressing them back together that it would last for many years...
  19. I took another look at my '88 sensors just to verify and they are basically laid out as shown in the illustration I posted. The high side temp sensor is just to the left of the blower. I'm surprised that they would have made changes to the layout of the AC lines but I'm sure they had good reasons.
  20. If there is enough interest maybe we could have a mini Reatta Rendezvous somewhere in (or near) Nashville.
  21. Nice video. I enjoyed it. You are lucky to live near a high quality show like that.
  22. Good call Dave. Looks like you hit the nail in the head on this one.
  23. Thanks. I'm always happy to help when I can.
  24. I can appreciate the safety aspects of what you did. I actually have a center stop light flasher module installed in my Reatta right now. I used a flasher module about the size of a nickle that is made for that purpose. It took about twenty minutes to install and it does get lots of attention from drivers behind me. Perhaps the extra brightness of LEDs all the way around would give another layer of safety but I'm not sure it would be worth the extra work and expense for me. If you know me at all you know that I'm not a purist. Below are photos/details of the flasher I used in case someone else wants a flashing center stop light. Only one wire needs to be cut and it all fits next to the center stop light bulbs. I have it programmed to flash five times when I hit the brakes and the burn full bright.
  25. I ask this with all sincerity... When you go to all the trouble (modifying wiring and adding resistors) and extra expense of changing to the LEDs, what have you gained over the stock bulbs that makes it worthwhile?