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Everything posted by Ronnie

  1. I had already taken the photos I needed so I decided to go ahead and make a how-to guide that explains how to make the HyperTech 170 degree thermostat work in the Reatta's 3800 engine. It can be found here: Hypertech 170* Thermostat Modification
  2. I installed the HyperTech Power Stat #1007 today. At highway speeds It keeps my engine at about 173 on a 90* day like we had today. David, thanks for figuring out what needed to be done make it work in our 3800s. I might post a tutorial on ROJ about what needs to be done to install the 170 degree thermostat, so it will be easy to find, if anyone is interested.
  3. Thanks for your generous offer to allow me to add the video produced by Chrysler that you edited and made your own to Reatta Owners Journal . ROJ is targeted at the average Reatta owner who wants to repair his Reatta by following simplified instructions (usually written by me or forum members) using basic hand tools. Although it is a great video filled with lots of information on the Teves, I think most of it falls outside the scope of what ROJ is about by it being so detailed and in depth. A highly trained master mechanic like yourself, and a handful of other people here on this forum, will find your edited Chrysler video useful but to the average Reatta owner it might just add to their confusion about the Teves Brake System. Also, I feel uneasy about the Chrysler copyright notice being overwritten by your opening statement saying that you accept NO responsibility for it's content or copyright infringement. I feel that if I post the video without permission from Chrysler I might be opening myself up for a copyright infringement problem with the real copyright holder.. Thank you again for offering the video. I'm sure you will have it close at hand and ready to post it whenever a need for it arises.
  4. Not a bad idea to do it that way but that is a carryover from the days when all four wheels were connected to one master cylinder piston. The Teves is like two separate brake systems that work in tandem. When you bleed the brakes on the front it has no effect on air in the rear half of the system and vice versa. The Teves system will have NO brake pressure on the rear when the pump isn't running, even if you are pressing on the pedal. Therefore you can't bleed the rear brakes properly without the pump running. It is really important to keep the Teves in good working order. When the pump fails you have NO rear brakes. The front brakes will still function if the pump stops but you won't have any power assist. Most (not all) modern day vacuum assist systems without ABS are basically two separate brake systems as well but the brake lines are connected diagonally to each piston in the master cylinder. The right front and the left rear are connected to one master cylinder piston, and the left front and right rear are connected to another master cylinder piston. I'm not familiar with how modern ABS systems work so this may not apply to them.
  5. You should check out what Dave has to offer. You probably won't find a better deal.
  6. Welcome to the forum Johnny Red. You might find this useful: Convertible Top Installation It's not very detailed but it is a good starting point.
  7. If you had a '91 with the 3.31 ratio and put a set of 15" wheels on it with low profile tires, perhaps 235/50-15s, I'll bet you could feel the difference in acceleration. The rice burners have used that trick for years to make their cars have better acceleration.
  8. I ran the Mustang wheels on my Reatta for several years. I had no vibration problems at all but I took great care to tighten the lugs up slowly and evenly until the wheel was fully seated against the hub before I put any torque on them. With all that offset the Mustang wheels had, there was a problem with bump steer. Not too bad if you hit a bump going in a straight line but go around a curve and hit a series of bumps at the same time would cause a lot of bump steer. It was most noticeable going up a rough entrance ramp with a sharp curve to get on the interstate. The car would feel like it wanted to dance around. The spacers moving the centerline of the wheel out away from the hub would have the same effect.
  9. That's good information. I've added it as a warning message to the strut replacement tutorial. Thanks!
  10. The problem you describe can usually be corrected with new struts and strut mounts. Changing them isn't a bad job. You will need an alignment afterwards. You should also replace the sway bar end links. Worn end links can be a source of clunks and rattles in the front end. The Reatta Store has most of the parts you will need. These articles will help you do the job. Front Strut Replacement Instructions Rear Strut Replacement Instructions Replacement Sway Bar End Links For '88 & '89 Models
  11. I had 235/60-16s on my Reatta for a while. It was close but I still had clearance. They didn't ride or handle very good. I sold them and got some 225/60-16s.
  12. I agree that the other videos are probably better and appear to be more professional. I posted the last video because I think it does a good job illustrating the huge number parts that have to be put back in exactly the same way they came out. There is no margin of error when installing the parts. If I were going to tackle it I would want lots of room on benches or in cabinets so I could easily keep the parts separated into assemblies and groups with tags and labels on them so they could be laid out in the order I took them off. Saying that kinda makes me feel dumb because the man I once worked for who rebuilt transmissions, would have me take the parts out of the cleaner and bring all of them to him in a basket. Then he would just pick out what he needed while building the transmission. Only years of experience allows you to be able to do that.. He did refer to the manual when he needed to know a specification but most of the time he didn't need it. Photos are a really good idea. Maybe you will find something simple when you get the pan off and you won't have to do the rebuild. I have my fingers crossed.
  13. For anyone contemplating doing a rebuild yourself you should watch this tear-down video completely through several times and try to memorize where all the parts go. It's something you will need to know when you reverse the procedure to put the transmission back together. At about the 14 minute mark you can clearly see why I was concerned about getting a check ball out of place causing you to have to pull the valve body off again. This can be a DIY job but it can also be a DOA job too.
  14. I liked those videos so well that I used them to create a How-To Guide in the ROJ, Engine & Transmission category to make them easier to find. The video series can be found here: GM HydraMatic 440-T4 Transmission Overhaul Videos
  15. Sure it can be done in less than two months. I was just exaggerating but when things go bad you might end up pulling the transmission several times. If it was easy to do all the mechanics would be doing it. Even our local Ford dealer takes their cars to an independent transmission shop for repair instead of having their own transmission mechanic. I guess volume is too low to keep one busy. My first job in a garage was pulling transmissions, cleaning them, and watching/helping a professional put them back together. It was back before FWD was popular. Replacing clutches isn't too bad but there is usually more to it than that. Bushings can get worn enough that it starts wearing out the aluminum case. When that happens a special reamer is needed to install an oversize bushing. That is just an example but there is a lot that can go wrong. Misplace one check ball and you will end up pulling the valve body back off. Not an easy job on our cars. If you feel up to it I say go for it.
  16. I think the key is Kendall being a professional who knows what he is doing. Would you have tackled the job without having someone to guide you and a lift to put the car on? I guess I'm just getting old. I don't think I would do it on my own without someone like Kendall.
  17. I think you are on the right path by checking your previous work first. I would save a DIY transmission rebuild as a last resort. It might be easy to rebuild one but according to time stamps in a video I stumbled across on the Internet it could take up to a couple of months just to do a DIY remove and replace of the transmission. I've paid to have a few transmissions rebuilt and it took about a week to get the car back from the professional doing it. It did cost me about $1700 to get it done but I would rather be driving the car and enjoying it than laying on my back and twisting bolts for half the summer. Some repairs are better left up to professionals and transmission repair is one of them... in my opinion.
  18. Yes, I do my best to ignore you but you make it hard to do. Thanks for reminding me why I have all but stopped posting on this forum. I was trying to help with the transmission problem but I should have known better. Take a look around. The people who have been on this forum for years rarely post. There is a reason for that. You are running off long time members of this forum one by one. You seem to think you run this forum now and maybe you do because no matter how argumentative or combative you get with your posts no one calls your hand on it. This forum needs a moderator who cares enough to step in and say enough is enough.
  19. I've been thinking about your response to what I wrote earlier. You said the problem started by it slipping between 2-3 shifts. Then you did I suggested and found that 1-2 shifts slipped too. I don't think two clutch packs would go out at the same time. I think the transmission is losing pressure when it tries to shift. According to the FSM lots of things could cause that. I always like to go back to the last thing that was done and inspect that before moving on. I would check the rubber hose you replaced inside the transmission closely. I doubt the hose has came loose or ruptured but - perhaps when you replaced the hose the retainer that holds the metal pipe in place got disturbed and has came loose. I feel your pain. I hope you find the problem and it doesn't cost you a lot of money. BTW, don't keep slipping the transmission or you will be rebuilding the transmission for sure.
  20. Just out of curiosity could you try this. Put the shifter in Low gear. Run up to moderate speed (for low gear) and then back off the throttle. Did the car's speed back down with the engine like it should or did is start freewheeling (coasting)? Do the same thing again- starting out in low gear and then manually shift into second - get up to a moderate speed and then back off the throttle. Did it start slipping when you shifted to second or before you got out of low gear? When you backed off the throttle in second did the engine hold the car back as it should or did it freewheel?
  21. I like the buttons on the console and Kat likes the latch on the door. She likes things simple. The '88-->'89 swap isn't as easy as you might think. The left support arm on the door has to be removed. There isn't room inside the metal dash for it to fit into unless you want to cut some metal. The right arm still gives plenty of support for the door. The button holes have to be covered with gray carpet.. The '88 owners manual won't fit in the '89 box. The '89 manual must be smaller. No biggie for me. I carry my FSM behind the drivers seat in the compartment all the time. There is room in the box for sunglasses, registration/insurance papers and a phone. That's all the room we need.
  22. No offense taken. I should have explained the reasons behind my previous post to avoid confusion. If you had said the coffee grounds were something other than rust I was going to suggest the material might be from deterioration of the inside of rubber fuel lines. That was a huge problem in older 2 cycle boat motors when ethanol was first added to gasoline. The tiny pieces of rubber would clog the main jets in the carburetor resulting in a lean mixture which starves a 2 cycle engine for oil that lubricates the cylinder and pistons - as well as starving it for gas. I had a Evinrude 140 hp engine ruined for that very reason. Hopefully the rubber hoses on our Reattas are more resistant to ethanol.
  23. I'm not being resistive at all. Sorry if I gave that impression. I was just throwing out what little I know about alcohol in gas from past experience. I was curious about the consistency of the coffee grounds. I never use a stabilizer additive nor do I keep my tank full in the winter when I only drive my car occasionally. I wouldn't be surprised at all if my tank was full of rust that is yet to be discovered.
  24. I agree that pure gas would be best for our cars but I wonder if the ethanol attracting moisture is as bad as it seems at first glance. The only way a gas/ethanol mixture in the car's gas tank could cause a moisture problem would be by it pulling moisture out of the air in the tank. If you keep the tank full when you store your car there is no air to pull the moisture from so moisture in the gas shouldn't be a problem. If you did get some water in your gas from the gas station wouldn't it be better to have some alcohol in the gas to keep the water mixed with the fuel instead of the water separating and settling to the bottom of the fuel tank? When the car is being driven ethanol in the gas shouldn't be a problem with our fuel injected cars because it helps keep any moisture mixed with the gas and circulating through the fuel system by the pump instead of it settling to the bottom of the tank. In the old days it was common practice to pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol in the gas tank if you suspected you had water in your gas. The alcohol would absorb the water allowing it to be burned up in the engine rather than the water settling to the bottom of the tank where it would be picked up causing the engine to miss sporadically. When you add a bottle of "Heat" or an equivalent additive you are basically adding alcohol to absorb any water you might have in the tank. You mentioned you had a coffee ground type stuff at the bottom of your old tank. Was is actually all flakes of rust or could it have been a result of the additives you used that have built up over time? Was the inside of the tank actually covered with flaky rust? This is a long thread and I've not went back and read it thoroughly. Everything I've brought up might have already been hashed out. If so I apologize for wasting everyone's time.
  25. The latest East Tennessee Region website facelift looks really good. Keep up the good work Roger!.