Ronnie

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Ronnie last won the day on October 15 2016

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About Ronnie

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    www.ReattaOwner.com

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    http://ReattaOwner.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    : East Tennessee
  • Interests:
    I'm interested in anything that has wheels and a motor.

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  • Biography
    1988 Reatta since 2007.

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  1. From what I can see in your photos the engine cradle bolts had failed. It is usually caused by rust but I don't see that much rust on your car. You are lucky that it happened where it did. You could have been killed if you had been driving down the road. You may find this information useful. Engine Cradle/Sub-Frame Bushing Replacement Here is an example of a similar failure..
  2. I believe it is a thermistor. If it isn't too far out of range, a resistor can be added in parallel to bring it within range to get a little more service out of it. When I discovered my Low Side sensor was out of range and preventing my system from cooling properly, I installed a resistor to "trick" the BCM into cycling the compressor at the right temperature. That got me about three more years out of it. Finally my sensor got so far out of range that I had to replace it. (Thanks to Dave who supplied me with a good one that reads correctly!) The sensor can be installed without pulling a vacuum as long as you have the replacement sensor ready and install it while Freon is still escaping. Of course the proper way to do it would be to recover the freon, install the sensor and then pull a vacuum but I didn't have the equipment or funds to do that.
  3. Primary areas to look for vacuum leaks in the engine compartment are shown in the photos below.. I should add this to ROJ if I haven't already done so.
  4. I wouldn't replace it without doing a little troubleshooting to determine if It is reading incorrectly. I provided instructions on how to do that. Basically you are comparing all the sensors listed in the tutorial when the temperature of the car has normalized by sitting overnight. If sensor reading differs from the others significantly it is probably bad. As others have said, it is no longer available new as far as I know. Someone here might be able to provided you with a good used one but you will lose the Freon when you remove it.
  5. The first two codes might go hand in hand with your problem with the air coming out the vent since they could all be vacuum related.
  6. What did you do to fix it?
  7. The coolant temp sensor is something different. What I'm referring to is shown as the Low Side Temperature Sensor in the photo below. It is mounted in the Freon line just before it goes into the evaporator to tell the BCM the temperature of the evaporator. If the sensor tells the BCM the evaporator is too cold the BCM will shut off the compressor to prevent the evaporator from freeing up.
  8. I will try to help. The compressor cycling off and the air blowing out of the vents are two separate issues. Air coming out the defrost vent is usually caused by a loose/bad vacuum line going to the HVAC controller under the dash near the glove compartment or a broken vacuum line under the hood that provides vacuum to the controller. When the controller doesn't get vacuum it defaults to air coming out the defrost vent.. I would fix this problem before proceeding to the problem with the compressor cycling on and off. Even if you have the correct amount of Freon in the system, (I assume you have since you just had a shop service it?), and the Low Pressure Switch is working properly, the compressor will still cycle on and off before the air gets cold enough if the Low Temperature Sensor is defective. I had the same problem with my car. The first step in determining if the Low Temp Sensor is the problem is to determine if it is sending the correct temperature readings to the BCM. Here are instructions on how to determine that by using the on-board diagnostics. A/C Temp Sensor Troubleshooting If you have trouble understanding the instructions feel free to ask questions.
  9. Quoted above is the first paragraph of a long post you made about hard starting. I found it all to be very useful. I think it would be helpful to anyone having a similar problem. With your permission I would like to add it to ROJ. If you approve I would like to make some small changes to the layout or wording instead of coping it verbatim.
  10. This should help you understand what is a short and what is normal on a Reatta. How To Measure Battery Drain You may also find this useful: Battery Cable Checks & Repair
  11. This is what I use and it works pretty well. I didn't have any luck finding a plastic jug that would fit on the end of it..
  12. Instead of emailing him try using the Private Message system built into the forum. Place your mouse over his username on the forum - when a box pops up click on "Message" at the bottom of the box.
  13. The reason he thinks they are too long is probably because he is installing them incorrectly: Hood Strut Replacement Instructions
  14. Thanks Matt. You are probably right. I didn't click on the link and I didn't post it so anyone else could. I posted about the email here to see if anyone else was getting similar emails but it seems from the responses that I'm the only one. Maybe it is a legit AACA email that I got because the system detected a problem with someone trying to sign in to my account. I just don't want to get locked out of my account permanently.
  15. I guess I'm a little paranoid right now but I don't think I want to publicly post all the detailed information about the transmission of my emails here on the forum. I will pass it on to a forum administrator in private if requested.