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Ronnie last won the day on October 15 2016

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About Ronnie

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    : East Tennessee
  • Interests:
    I'm interested in anything that has wheels and a motor.


  • Biography
    1988 Reatta since 2007.

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  1. My car has a smell of gas a lot of times when I first start it up. Always has. I figured it was a combination of the converter not being heated up to burn off any raw gas and the ECM not being in closed loop so the O2 isn't making optimum adjustments to the mixture. I never notice it inside with the windows up but if I'm outside the car or the windows are down I smell it. I think the direction the wind is blowing the exhaust from the tailpipe is a factor to.
  2. I'm a firm believer in that too. My car has a 160 degree thermostat and a Hayden fan controller that cycles the fans on high at 190 degrees and back off at 176 degrees. It works great at cooling the engine when sitting in still in at traffic lights and the AC seems to work better under those conditions too. I have discovered that the 160 degree thermostat has one drawback. It is too low for driving in cold weather. The engine has to reach 158-159 degrees to go into closed loop operation. At highway speeds in cold weather the 160 degree thermostat has a hard time maintaining that temperature.. That's not a problem for me because I rarely get my car out in cold weather. A 180 degree thermostat would be a better choice for most people.
  3. I have these on order to do the '90 headlight relay upgrade on my '88. I may use one of them to do the taillights the way you describe at the same time. I have the taillights burning anytime I'm driving while I only use the headlights occasionally.
  4. I think you are correct although when I first came on the forum it was recommended that I use WD-40 to fix a switch with sticking buttons that wouldn't hardly turn off the lights. It worked for me but I guess it was beginner's luck that I didn't have problems. My switch has worked perfectly since then.
  5. When I look at the OP's photos it tells me we should all use some Deoxit on the headlight switch connections. The reason I say that is because the problem appears to be a bad connection between the switch and connector pins instead of an internal problem. Resistance from a bad connection can generate that kind of heat under a heavy load. Even though I think it is expensive for what you get, DeOxit is good stuff that can insure a good connection in situations like this. I'm going to use it to clean my headlight switch connections today.
  6. Sorry for butting in but I thought you might find this helpful.
  7. Please post what you did when you get time. I was just looking at the schematics today to figure out how to add the relay. I actually have a rough sketch laying on my desk right now but knowing where to find all the wires would be helpful. You could probably save me a lot of time. I rarely use my headlights but I would like to take the load off the switch when I do.
  8. For the people with an '88 model - a pigtail like Dave's won't work. The fan controls are not the same as later models. If you want to run your fans on high whenever the low speed fan comes on all you have to do is install a jumper across the resistor shown in the photo below. I've had mine done that way for years with no problems. I intended to go back and do a little neater job on the installation but I never seem to get it done.
  9. Thanks for cutting up your pigtail so we know what's inside that makes it work.
  10. I don't yet understand how but I'm thinking the ECM is detecting an unexpected ground condition on pin B (telling it both low and high speed fans are running) when the jumper is installed without the resistor, and you are driving at speed. I don't know for sure, but I don't think the ECM would ever run the fans on high when ample air is flowing though the radiator at highway speeds. The reason it is hard for you to find a pattern is because it may also take into account engine temp and ambient air temp??
  11. This is the location of the connector C107 that Dave connected to (I think)..
  12. I will post a photo of the location of the connector in a few minutes.
  13. Hum. I'll have to look at the schematic again to see if I can figure out why the resistance was needed. According to the color code on the resistors each one is a 68 ohms. When you tie them in parallel like that the meter will read 34 ohms total resistance. BTW, The shape of the connectors he used, and the location where you installed the pigtail, tells me the pigtail connects to the control circuit of the relays. In other words it connects between the ECM and the fan relay coils and not on the power side (contacts) of the relays. The resistors are used to fool the ECM to keep it from throwing a code 26 and David mentioned earlier.
  14. Below are Dave's photos. I've cropped them to get a closeup view. I'm surprised just to see two resistors in parallel. I was really expecting to see a diode in there too. Dave, in the first photo, the shrink tubing that you haven't removed seems to be a little thicker under your fingertip than what is around the wire. Could there be something else in that thicker area?