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Ronnie last won the day on October 15 2016

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About Ronnie

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    : East Tennessee
  • Interests:
    I'm interested in anything that has wheels and a motor.


  • Biography
    1988 Reatta since 2007.

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  1. Good video. That guy is speaking my language. I actually sound a lot like him. I can act as an interpreter if anyone has trouble understanding him.
  2. Is you start grinding on the flange to reduce the diameter I think you will find that the flange is actually two pieces (top and bottom sections) that are spot welded and/or crimped together. If that is the case, enough grinding on the perimeter of the flange will cause the two parts to separate and release the guts guts of the thermostat. I hope you do find a solution so we can use a 170* thermostat.
  3. I've been watching this thread with interest. I hope the 170* thermostat works in our 3800 engines. I think it is what I would like to have in my car. I have a 160^ thermostat in my car and fan controls that turn the fans on high at 190* and off at 176*. It has been that way for years. On the average summer day (that is when I do 90% of my driving) my engine runs at about 165-170 degrees at highway speeds. The converter locks up in my '88 model at about 140*. The engine goes into closed loop at about 158-159 degrees. The converter locking above 140 degrees might be unique to my car or to '88 models. I don't know. If I drive when the outside temperature is below about 45-50 degrees the thermostat will not maintain 160* to keep the engine warm enough for closed loop when moving at highway speeds. It hovers around 157-159*. I can tell gas mileage suffers. However, I can't feel a drop in performance of the engine in open loop. Rarely do I drive when the outside temperate is that low so it's not a problem for me. If someone drove in cold weather all the time it might be a problem. Perhaps an overly rich mixture for extended periods would be hard on the cat converter? The cooling system on the Reatta is more than capable of keeping the 3800 cool if it is in good condition - even when sitting still in traffic. My car never goes over 190* in bumper to bumper traffic for miles with the 160* thermostat and the fan control setup I have. I'm very happy with the engine cooling I have other than it dropping down to low in really cold weather.
  4. My car has a smell of gas a lot of times when I first start it up. Always has. I figured it was a combination of the converter not being heated up to burn off any raw gas and the ECM not being in closed loop so the O2 isn't making optimum adjustments to the mixture. I never notice it inside with the windows up but if I'm outside the car or the windows are down I smell it. I think the direction the wind is blowing the exhaust from the tailpipe is a factor to.
  5. I'm a firm believer in that too. My car has a 160 degree thermostat and a Hayden fan controller that cycles the fans on high at 190 degrees and back off at 176 degrees. It works great at cooling the engine when sitting in still in at traffic lights and the AC seems to work better under those conditions too. I have discovered that the 160 degree thermostat has one drawback. It is too low for driving in cold weather. The engine has to reach 158-159 degrees to go into closed loop operation. At highway speeds in cold weather the 160 degree thermostat has a hard time maintaining that temperature.. That's not a problem for me because I rarely get my car out in cold weather. A 180 degree thermostat would be a better choice for most people.
  6. I have these on order to do the '90 headlight relay upgrade on my '88. I may use one of them to do the taillights the way you describe at the same time. I have the taillights burning anytime I'm driving while I only use the headlights occasionally.
  7. I think you are correct although when I first came on the forum it was recommended that I use WD-40 to fix a switch with sticking buttons that wouldn't hardly turn off the lights. It worked for me but I guess it was beginner's luck that I didn't have problems. My switch has worked perfectly since then.
  8. When I look at the OP's photos it tells me we should all use some Deoxit on the headlight switch connections. The reason I say that is because the problem appears to be a bad connection between the switch and connector pins instead of an internal problem. Resistance from a bad connection can generate that kind of heat under a heavy load. Even though I think it is expensive for what you get, DeOxit is good stuff that can insure a good connection in situations like this. I'm going to use it to clean my headlight switch connections today.
  9. Sorry for butting in but I thought you might find this helpful.
  10. Please post what you did when you get time. I was just looking at the schematics today to figure out how to add the relay. I actually have a rough sketch laying on my desk right now but knowing where to find all the wires would be helpful. You could probably save me a lot of time. I rarely use my headlights but I would like to take the load off the switch when I do.
  11. For the people with an '88 model - a pigtail like Dave's won't work. The fan controls are not the same as later models. If you want to run your fans on high whenever the low speed fan comes on all you have to do is install a jumper across the resistor shown in the photo below. I've had mine done that way for years with no problems. I intended to go back and do a little neater job on the installation but I never seem to get it done.
  12. Thanks for cutting up your pigtail so we know what's inside that makes it work.
  13. I don't yet understand how but I'm thinking the ECM is detecting an unexpected ground condition on pin B (telling it both low and high speed fans are running) when the jumper is installed without the resistor, and you are driving at speed. I don't know for sure, but I don't think the ECM would ever run the fans on high when ample air is flowing though the radiator at highway speeds. The reason it is hard for you to find a pattern is because it may also take into account engine temp and ambient air temp??
  14. This is the location of the connector C107 that Dave connected to (I think)..