herm111

This is a Vulcan Rod lathe, later bought out by Storm, and then renamed the company, Storm Vulcan. The Vulcan Rod lathe is the same as the Storm Vulcan, except the Storm Vulcan has two free standing belt guards, one on each end. It will do babbitt rods, Bore wrist pin bushings in the Rods, and will bore the big end of the Rods, for resizing of insert Rods. Excellent Condition, 3,500.00 Herm

Long Story, but this is a rebuilt Boring machine in 1945, and never used again, as they bought another new one to do rods, as they were getting behind. I took it all apart to paint it, and it is rebuilt, in new condition. If you look up Hydro-Borer, on the net, it does all kinds of jobs. I was going to build a jig to bore different size ball caps, never got around to it. 2,800.00, plus shipping. Has manuals. Web site phone number 515-303-0363 It will ring, shop, house, and my cell phone. Herm.

1903 Olds Pictures. I have many, it won't let me list any more. That Sucks ! Herm.

Pictures of another 1903 Curved Dash Olds. First two pictures are on a new made crank, that they messed up the radius on at a crank grinder in Texas, where the owner had sent it, you have to watch! Arnold Motor, in Spencer, Iowa, had to fix it. This is all this post will let me post ? Herm.

I went back and looked at your burnt out rod, and the last time they were poured, somebody, used Lead Babbitt. In any case, the tinning was not very good, as there should be some showing in the rod part. The two half flanges show to cold of pour, as the flanges did not stick to the sides of the rod, and they are always the first part of the bearing to go. I will put some pictures up of lead, and tin base babbitt, difference in color, Lead id the dark. Also pictures of a bad flange not sticking, and the way they should be, and some others. I couldn't find the 1931 Plymouth rods, and mains we did for the race from Peking, to Paris, so I put in a set of 1930 Buick Rods, and Mains. About a month ago, we got done with another 1903 Curved dash Oldsmobile, i will see if I can show them. Thanks, Herm.

When a Babbitt Bearing go bad, you can normally limp back home, and put in another rod. When a insert goes bad, your dead in the water. Also, inserts have a way of going obsolete, or in the size you want, or chewing up the crank, where it has to be ground. Herm

If the old main inserts are not hammered, cracked, or lost and I am not talking about the babbitt, as that doesn't enter into it. There is no reason in this world, to ever make new inserts. Sure, I know it adds more money to the babbitters cash flow, but I am telling you, it is a waste of money. When heated to pouring temperature, old or new shell, makes no difference, they both will bring there parting edges, together, and you fix that step, during the machining operation. Now, steel backed shells, will, hardly move at all. Herm.

" AGREE " Herm.

Yep, it doesn't take long for an out of line crank, to break! Herm.

Pour the old inserts, and align bore, and your back to New! Herm.

I Agree, Herm.

Not all bearings are babbitt topped these, some are Aluminum, and other alloys. Herm.

There is no way you can fit old bearings to any crank, as you don't have enough babbitt to work with. Herm.

We use the same Babbitt formulas today, as was in 1900. If the foundry, doesn't have what you want, they will mix i for you. Herm.

They fit a early Ford V-8

The first thing is to check the crank pin size. Measure up and down, and then at a Quarter turn. Then across the pin, from one side to to the other. If over a 1/2 to 3/4 of a thousandths, the crank should be touched up. So what ever the desired clearance would be, say, on a 2 inch pin .002 thousandths, your actual clearance would be .002-75. you always have to fit to the largest diameter. Check the rods for cracks, gap between the babbitt thrust and the rod. Having all the shims, is a Plus! By all means, have the rods checked for alignment, twist, Bend, and Off-Set. Most old GOOD shim pieces are is .002 thousandths increments, the cheaper ones, as today are in .003 thousandths pieces. So, if you have .003 thousandths pieces, first only remove one shim from side one side, if it is to tight, leave the .003 out, and put in the .002, and if that is to tight, take out the .002, and replace, with a .001. square foot sheets of .002, and .001, are sold in Mc-Master-Carr. I don't know your bolt size, so I won't say the torque. If you use Plastigage, do NOT use it dry. Your rods are still factory, with Tin base Babbitt, another Plus. If usable, the crank pins should be polished. But the biggest concern is the 100 years of grit in the engine that is going to go through the bearings when you run it. These are 1930 Buick, Rods, and Mains. Well, I have told you more then I know. Thanks, Herm.

It sounds like there were many things wrong that gave your engine no good chance to survive the 8,000 miles. Yes, the rods on any engine have to be straight, in its twist, bend, and off set, or the stage is set for an automatic, failure. The chance of you getting a good babbitt job, can be slim, to none. I would like see a few pictures of the work. I would think in 1920, the babbitt would be poured solid in the rods. What was the clearance on the pistons, to cylinder wall? All Aluminum piston pins have to be checked for clearance, as many are to tight to survive, they can gall. What was the Bearing clearances? Is your engine pressure fed? Herm.

The best is J & M Machine in Southborough, Ma. They work on the exotic engines, no one else will touch. They also have a web site, and is very interesting. Talk to Mike, or John. 508-460-0733. You won't regret it!

Yes, we babbitt the steel shells and left .070 thousandths more babbitt then the size of the crankshaft journals, after grinding. Then the inserts are fit, to each saddle, and align bored. Herm.

It looks like the filter measures, Two Feet, 4 inches, and 13/16's long ! Herm.

I would sure like to see close up pictures of all those 50.00 bearings. Herm.

Cotter pins have to be tight, as heavy oil splash can loosen them, and take them out. Also use the size of pin that the bolt holes have in them. If the holes do not line up with the nuts, drill with the size of bit, and open a clean path for the pin. While drilling, use a shop vac. to catch any drill chips. It works like a charm. Also, do not for get to check your Rods for alignment, twist, bend, and off set! Herm.

Do NOT go over 40 Pounds, on a 3/8's fine thread bolt. 35# is good. start at 30#, and then pull for the pin hole.

Cork, with a thin layer of clear RTV . Herm.

Those squirt holes should be small. Many rebabbitters drill bigger holes, because they are special sizes, and break easy! Herm