19tom40

When you bench bleed the new master cylinder, do NOT use the full stroke, just pump the first 1/2" of the stroke. The master cylinders made today can damage the seal at the far end of the stroke. After you mount and connect the master cylinder, use slow short strokes to build up pressure in the wheel cylinder before opening the bleeder screw. Try to prevent the pedal going all of the way to the floor and use slow stroke movement both ways when bleeding. After bleeding all 4 wheels, adjust the push rod by moving the pedal with your hand and listening for the click when the push rod touches the master cylinder piston. Adjust for 1/4" - 1/2" movement of the pedal before the push rod contacts the piston. I like to stay near the 1/2" limit until I have driven the car for a while. Brake fluid expands when it heats up and the longer space, allows me to determine if the fluid is getting hot enough to raise the pedal.

To limit the amount of oil flow to the filter. Without the orifice, you may have a hard time sealing the top of the filter housing

You can also fill the opening in a fitting and then drill a.062" hole in the solder.

Did you try Boose-Herrel. Give them a cal, they may know.

The input fitting should have a .062" orfice.

Low vacuum can be caused by valve timing. If the chain is off just one tooth, it could cause this symptom.

The size is 1/4-18 npt pipe plug. If you mean that you want the dimensions of the square fitting, I suggest that you measure it with calipers. The square is not a standard size because most of them were cast and then threaded. They can vary in size as much a 1/32". The size is quoted as a nominal 1/4". If a 12" crescent does not give you enough leverage, you fitting is rusted in pretty solid and you will have to clean the tank so it can be heated to remove or soak it for a while from the inside with a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

Just use a 12" crescent adjustable wrench. Make sure that it is adjusted tight to the square and that you have 3 points of contact. I have tried many different types of wrenches on these and found that I get the best results with the crescent wrench. The fitting is a cast iron pipe fitting, so a regular wrench will not fit correctly. I replaced mine with a brass fitting, so it will not rust in place.

Would you buy a Mercury windshield seal? This thread pertains to 1939 and 1940 Mercury cars. The purpose is to determine if there are enthusiasts who need and would commit to buying (pre-pay) a new windshield seal for these cars. There is basically one manufacturer who produces these quality seals and the last production was close to 20 years ago. If there are enough buyers who would definitely purchase one, it might be worth it for the company to do a run. At this initial stage there are no prices to attach to the commitment, but a realistic "I'm in" is what is needed to move forward. You can PM me here or go to to the FordBarn.com ad PM av8coupe with your response. He is keeping track of the number to see if there is enough interest.

The 47 Monarch is a Ford with extra chrome and upscale upholstery. The engine most likely is a 239 cu in V-8 and may be rebuildable. The only way to tell is to disassemble it and check for cracks. $10K seems high to me. I don't know how to tell if the upholstery is original, but here is a link to some photos of Monarchs. https://www.flickr.com/photos/50312897@N02/galleries/with/72157701767959024 Here is a link to the Early Ford V-8 Club website, where you can get contact information on the Canadian Regional Groups. Someone there may be able to help you determine originality. https://www.earlyfordv8.org/Regional_Club_Directory.cfm

My cars both start with little cranking after sitting a couple of months. After sitting all winter, my Merc start after cranking 3 - 10 second bursts and my Lincoln takes about 8 bursts. My Lincoln carburetor leaks down so it takes longer to start. The key to starting after long periods of inaction is a one piece fuel line from the tank to the flex line, crimp the ferrules and then solder them at both ends, use a good flex line and a good sediment bowl cover gasket. Any vacuum leaks will slow the priming action.

Bill Hirsch staff have been known to give incorrect answers. Try this: http://www.skyliner.org/forums/showthread.php?684-Correct-engine-color-for-59-352

A fuel pressure regulator has to be on the output of the fuel pump. It should work if placed under the car. I would measure the pressure at the output of the mechanical pump. I cannot recommend any fuel pressure regulator as I am still running stock mechanical pumps on my cars. I would look for an electric pump that delivers a max pressure of 3lb. The Airtex E8902 is one for a 6 volt car.

Photo 1 with the wide bracket could be for the 1949 Ford. I have never seen that type of mount on a 1949-1953 Ford, Lincoln or Mercury car. The 49-53 generators that I have seen have a clamp that goes around the generator to hold the generator to the mount, so the the generator can be removed without disturbing the fan belt tension. The 49-51 Lincoln mount was shorter than the Ford or Mercury mount because the fan bolted to the block. The 52 Lincoln went to the Y-block and the generator was mounted under the V on these cars. The pulley and mount are different from the 1942-1948 Ford. In 1942 Ford and Mercury moved the fan from the crank pulley to a separate mount that bolted to the generator mount. This required a wider generator mount with threaded holes for the bolts that held the bracket to the generator. The 42-48 mount had raised edges on the generator mount to keep the fan mount in the correct orientation. Photo 2 is for the 1941 Ford and was used on the 41 Lincoln. The mount is the same as the 39-40 generator, but the 41 had a grounding lug where a wire that ran to the base of the regulator was attached.

How long doe the seal last? Bearings should have little effect on the seal.

Most people adding a double master cylinder use the 1967 Mustang unit. The unit that you have apparently has a different pedal ratio and that could be causing your problem. Finding a power master cylinder for drum front and rear brakes may be a challenge. You never answered my questions in your other post on this subject.

The 1946 Chassis Parts gives the Ford P/N (01A-1000) for the 1940 Zephyr generator, so there must not be a big difference. You would have to see if the 1940 catalog lists an 0H prefix generator and then check with the archives to see the difference. I do not think that you will find any differences, as Ford was big on standardizing parts across the 3 lines of cars.

It sound like your power valve is leaking. Fill the bowl with fuel to 11/16" below the top of the bowl and let it sit overnight with the bowl cover on. Measure the fuel level and if it dropped, the power valve or it's gasket are probably leaking.

Back up lights were available on Ford, Lincoln and Mercury cars starting in 1946 for certain.The switch used with standard shift cars was P/N 51A-15520 and is available from many of the vendors that supply Ford parts of that era. I don't remember the exact way that the switch was clamped to the steering column but it was clamped so that when you shifted into reverse the shift arm on the column operated the switch. They do reproduce the kit for the 1949-1951 Fords and Mercurys. It most likely used the same clamp.

I would disconnect the levers going to the transmission to see if they are keeping the shift lever from moving up and down. If one of the arms is not in the neutral position, it could keep the shift lever from moving up and down. Next I would pull the steering wheel to see if any thing is blocking the shift lever from moving. and last, I would remove the bolts from the clamshell and see if there is anything broken.

FOR SALE 1993 LINCOLN TOWN CAR Signature Series Lt. mocha exterior, mocha interior. Excellent condition. 91,000, well maintained, easy driven miles. Could be driven anywhere. Looking for a good home for this one family-owned car since new. $6,500.00 Call Ron: 815-344-1335

Why don't you post this in the Buy and Sell section where people looking for parts are likely to search.

The problem sounds like a carburetor problem to me. I would say that your power valve is probably malfunctioning or is incorrect for your carburetor, The power valve system in the Holley 94 carb needs good vacuum in order to work properly and the correct power valve needs to be installed. I suggest that you send your carburetor to Charley Schwendler and have him rebuild it with quality parts. Many of the carb castings have been damaged by installing an incorrect power valve, Charley machines the seating surface and installs the correct power valve. You can contact him at cas5845@yahoo.com The Lincoln Zephyr distributor does not have a vacuum advance which could cause that type of problem. A weak coil, bad condenser or incorrect point gap would tend to give poor performance at all rpms or any rpm above 800rpm. The mechanical advance in the distributor could be binding, but that is an unlikely situation.

Why don't you post these for sale itmes in the Buy and Sell section where people looking for parts search, instead of cluttering up the Forum where people are looking for help?

I doubt if the reservoir is your problem. Low pedal is usually caused by adjustment or air in the system. If you adjusted the brakes and bench bled the master cylinder before installing it and then bled the brakes, you can assume that you don't have the usual problem. With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to see if you can get a good pedal. If you can get a good pedal, let the brake pedal rest for about 10 min and try the pedal again without starting the engine. You should have the same pedal as before. If you don't, check the brake adjustment. If you don't get a good pedal, check the pushrod to master cylinder adjustment. If the adjustment is correct, you may have the wrong size master cylinder piston. This means that you don't have the correct size master cylinder. If you get a good pedal without the engine running, press on the brake pedal and start the engine. The brake pedal should not sink more than 1/2". If it does, you have a booster - master cylinder mismatch.