oldcar

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Everything posted by oldcar

  1. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank you Scott It is now down-loaded and safely stored in my Studebaker File. I will keep you informed when I start the re-wiring. We have a local firm that will knit a "sock" for the loom once I have it finalised. I have just received this photograph from the Auctioneer's Office showing the Studebaker prior to the "Clearance Sale" at Merrigum in Central Victoria (Australia) In October 2012. Bj.
  2. Good morning all, one or two of you will already know me. I have just purchased this early 1920s Stude but I am having trouble identifying what model it is. I apologise for the quality of the photograph but it was taken this morning on my wifes iPad under less than ideal conditions. The car is reputed to have been in dry storage since 1941. It is in Melbourne Australia. It is a very long time since I owned my last Stude, a Daytona Wagon. The photo shows the right hand side of the engine with the magneto and carburettor. This is unusual as the carburettor is attached to the (aluminium) cylinder head with the manifolding cast directly into the head. Can someone please identify the year and model. The Speedo shows 36,000 miles. The ignition/light switch has been broken so I will be looking for a replacement. Thank you oldcar (Bernie j)
  3. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    While this may seem a little premature I would like to start sourcing the correct cotton covered wires for my car. does anyone know of a list of colour combinations and gauges for the Wagner equipped Light Six electrics? I have found on page 72 of section 3E of the Service Manual for 1920 -24 Models EJ -EM. one diagram Number 54-E for the Junction Box Wiring Diagram EK-EL. It mentions: Battery Indicator "Large Black Wire" : Switch Large Red Wire : Switch Tan Wire with Green line : Switch Small Red Wire and Switch Tan Wire. I have yet to discover the location of this Junction Box but no doubt it will reveal it's self once I start to remove the dash board (Hopefully) I know that this sounds a little suspect but having been brought up working on British cars, Uncle Joseph's system of automotive wiring has some benefits. Even if it is only so you know which wire the smoke is coming from. Bj.
  4. Lagonda Rapiers

    Hi Paul While out shopping have a look at the Permatex "High Tack'" it seems to be the next generation gasket goo from Permatex form-a-gasket. It comes in a slightly bigger screw top (metal) tin. Either that or it is some "old stock" that I accidentally tripped over. The shop where I saw it only had the one tin on the shelf so being a sucker for these things I bought it anyway. It is very thick and gooey and the tin when I opened it was only half full as if the solvent had evaporated. Oh well! it is only money..... It would cost more in petrol to take it back and demand a refund. I was going to say "Time as well as petrol, but these days my time costs me nothing. You could say that it is "invaluable" but I don't think that is the right word. Bernie j.
  5. From time to time I mention my Lagonda Rapier on my thread under Our Cars and Restoration Projects/Packard Coupe but I thought that I really should start a thread dealing with Lagonda Rapiers here where they belong. For all those who are blinking and asking "What is a Lagonda Rapier" they are a small British car made for one year in 1934/5, until the Lagonda Company (absolutely nothing to do with Aston Martin until the late1940 when David Brown who had recently bought Aston Martin needed a decent 2 OHC engine and bought Lagonda)went into receivership. After the wash-up the Rapier continued in production, as Rapier Cars Ltd until 1938/9. Lagonda's original design brief to Timothy Ashcroft the engineer in charge of the small team given the task of creating the car was..Produce the best Light Car in the World. The result was a brilliant little sporting car with an 1100cc 2 ohc 4 cylinder engine and an ENV pre-selector transmission. Total combined production of both the Lagonda Rapier and the Rapier was less than 400 cars. To my knowledge there are about half a dozen of these cars in the US. One of the things that make these little cars so interesting (to look at) is that neither factory built a standard production body. EVERY car has an individual coach built body. No two are exactly the same. This is illustrated by the photograph taken yesterday of five of the cars situated in Melbourne Australia. Four are Lagondas and one a Rapier, they all have a body built by a different coachbuilder. Can you tell the difference? Bernie J. oldcar,
  6. Stude48 is right, the correct covering for the running boards is linoleum. You can get a range of solid coloured, smooth textured,"Desk top" linoleum. Try putting "Desk top Linoleum" into your "search engine'. It is not as thick as flooring but the wear should not be a factor considering the amount of use our cars get these days. Bj.
  7. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    While on the subject perhaps someone can suggest the best way to conserve and present the red "Composition" distributor caps found on American Bosch magneto's. Next; I find an old/discarded tooth brush excellent for cleaning up all those awkward corners on magnetos. Finally in a classic example of "belt and braces" I will take all four magnets out to my friendly Magnet specialist to have them boosted (re-magnetised) The inportant thing with these is to make sure that the "polarity" goes back in the same direction. As all he requires is the actual magnet it is a good idea to place a piece of steel strip acosss the ends as a "keeper". 7557
  8. Lagonda Rapiers

    I must be more careful with what I say in future! When I used the term Cereal-box I was using it as a generic term to indicate the type of material. In actual fact, more recently I have been using discarded filing cabinet folders. The type with provision to hang them in a file draw. These are made of much stronger card and have a minimum of printing on them. What printing there is, tends to be matt finish with little or no build up on the surface. The card is -1500 of an inch thick. Rather than use a silicone base sealant, I prefer to use Permatex "Aviation" form-a-gasket. This comes in a little bottle with a brush to apply it attached to the inside of the lid. Used sparingly a bottle lasts for an extremely long time, It is essential that the lid is replaced firmly after use. Instructions say to apply a thin even coat and to allow to air dry for a few minutes. The bottle contains 2 ounces or 59 ml. N.B. There is a warning on the back of the bottle expressly for residents of the State of California stating that it contains a chemical that may cause birth defects or other reproductive harm. At my age this is not thought to be significant. In addition perhaps as I live in Australia this may not apply. I can not imagine how or for what other purpose, the residents of California are prone to use it ? There is a further warning on the front of the bottle in red that it may be harmful if swallowed and that it may irritate if in direct contact with eyes. Bernie j. The bottle is made of re-cycleable plastic HDPE. 382
  9. My Australian friends may be interested to read this, others Amused if it wasn't serious. Bernie j. Australia, Asbestos and Collector Cars Our story begins in 2003 when the Australian government issued a zero-tolerance ban on any and all asbestos products, aimed mainly at imported Chinese drywall, a problem America also faced at the time. Fast forward to March 6, 2017 when, without prior warning to Shipping and Customs agents, let alone to owners, the Australian Border Force (ABF) began randomly testing all imported collector cars for asbestos, without any industry consultation, procedures or practices in place. One of our clients had two cars already en-route to Australia and so had no choice but to comply. One was a 1966 Shelby Mustang 350 GT and the second a stock 1966 Mustang donor-car, found together as “barn finds” and imported into Australia for restoration. Making rules on the run Inspectors were picked from an ABF approved list of asbestos assessors, none of whom had collector car experience since this was an all-new process. An ABF officer and a representative of the customs brokers also had to be in attendance while the owner/importer was required to provide two mechanics, tools, a floor jack, jack stands, safety clothing and masks. All five charged by the hour, with the work being done at the customs wharf. The inspection of the Mustangs took a full 8-hour day times five people. The front brake pads, rear brake shoes, exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe gaskets from both cars plus the add-on A/C compressor from the stock Mustang were all taken for inspection. Some of the sealer from inside the wheel wells, around the firewall and the caulking around the windshield were also removed for testing. Additionally, samples were cut from the headliner material, the door frame inner padding, the hood scoop, the brake air ducts, the windshield washer bag and sample sections were cut from the wiring loom. As the 350 GT was pushed onto a hoist the ribbed aluminium oil pan fins were damaged. The pleas of both mechanics to cease the destructive sample-taking were ignored by the inspector, the customs agent and the ABF officer. As the day wound down the inspector recommended the removal of the engine and transmission for disassembly and removal of the front fenders and doors for further examination. Because of that day’s interpretation of the regulations, the owner was not allowed to be at the inspection. Moving to plan “B” During & after the destructive first inspection, endless e-mails and calls between the customs broker and the ABF, the owner was able to get both mustangs taken to a well-respected exotic car sales and service center in Sydney. ABF required both a removal expert and an assessor to supervise the work, a hygienist to test the air for asbestos (how could I make this up) and two mechanics in space suits, all to remove a clutch. The caulking around the windshield, firewall and inner wheel wells was also removed but reason prevailed and so the engines were not disassembled. Both cars were then released to the owner. Total time was two months. Costs including the two removal experts, two assessors, two mechanics, (twice) the hygienist, plus the asbestos lab analyses and bulk sample report was approximately $15,000, not including the damage and cost to replace the seized parts on both cars plus the possibility of fines for non-compliance. Meanwhile, across the continent Meanwhile, in Perth, on the other side of Australia, an enthusiast with a DKW obsession imported a rare 1953 DKW F89, a two cylinder, 23 hp, 684 cc post-war Germany econo-car built from 1950-54 and based on a pre-war design. Although 60,000 DKW F89s were built, most were scrapped as the German economy recovered and much better cars came to market. DKW was acquired by Mercedes in 1957, sold to Volkswagen-Audi in 1964 and DKW ceased to exist. The DKW in question was sold new into Portugal, was complete, relatively rust free and at $7,000 Aus ($5,400 USD) was a very affordable and unique collector car. As the third collector car to be inspected and the first in the Perth area, the owner was lucky. The asbestos inspector was both reasonable and horrified by the tale of the two Mustangs imported into Sydney, which had quickly gone through the collector car community. The initial inspection found asbestos in the rear brakes, the head and manifold gaskets and the under-coating in the wheel wells. The car was immediately impounded and the real problems began. ABF again changes the rules The owner requested that he and a mechanic remove the offending material, but this was rejected by the ABF as they were not “authorized” to enter the “secure” dockside area. ABF insisted on a professional asbestos remover, but none had vintage car experience. The owner next asked to attend with the chosen asbestos remover but was again denied access to his car. A week later ABF agreed to the owner’s request to have his mechanic remove the asbestos, but after completing the paperwork, permits and an inspection time, ABF decided that removing the parts in the storage depot might be unsafe and the permit was cancelled. ABF first declined and then approved transport to Classic Gasoline, a collector car service center in Perth. ABF then again changed their mind and advised the car could only be moved to a certified asbestos removal center. After realizing there was no certified asbestos removal center that could do the work, ABF relented and permitted the car to be moved to Classic Gasoline. Paperwork recommenced, but at the last-minute Quarantine intervened, advising that the DKW could only be moved after it had been spray cleaned, but that it could only be spray cleaned after the asbestos was removed. As the owner wrote, “Catch 22 meets Franz Kafka”. Back to plan “A” Everyone agreed to go back to plan “A”, a removal time was again booked only to have someone at ABF again demand the work be done by an asbestos specialist. After yet more calls, e-mails and negotiations it was finally agreed that ABF, the original inspector, two mechanics from Classic Gasoline and the owner would inspect the car, agree to the work to be done and the owner and mechanics would then be allowed to complete the work at dockside. Thanks to the DKW’s small engine, it was lifted out without a hoist for disassembly. After even more paperwork, ABF certified the removed parts and arranged their seizure and destruction. The additional storage fees were $3,000, the mechanics charged $1,500 and the shipping agents were another $1,500 plus the cost of finding and replacing the seized parts, so almost equal to the original $7,000 purchase price. The local ABF did not issue any fines for the non-compliant parts. The good news is that most new cars, world-wide, were asbestos free by 1999, but the bad news is that virtually all cars built before 1999 have asbestos-based components. All imported cars must obtain an asbestos test for their vehicles BEFORE they are shipped to Australia, but few countries have certified collector car asbestos inspectors. If asbestos is identified, it must be removed before the vehicle is shipped and owners must confirm the vehicle is asbestos free. The ABF doesn’t have the time, space and manpower to inspect every car, but no-one should take the risk of being caught up in the costs and damage of a random inspection, the possible seizure and destruction of the car plus the reality of fines because the seized parts were not zero asbestos compliant. The Australian Imported Motor Vehicle Industry Association is lobbying the ABF to standardize a consistent inspection regime, but the extra red tape, inspection costs and uncertainty have slowed imports to a crawl. Additionally, the new rules apply to imports AND exports, which will be another yet-to-be-defined learning curve! But wait, it gets more complicated If the asbestos-related import/export restrictions were not enough, the Australian government is also ramping efforts to keep what are described as “culturally significant automobiles” in Australia and is considering the seizure of any vehicle deemed to have been “illegally” exported since 1987. Based on the UNESCO convention in trafficking of illicit cultural property, the proposed legislation would include any vehicle designed by an Australian, built in Australia, altered in Australia, or strongly associated with an Australian. To quote from the proposed legislation, “the best way of promoting the regime would be a couple of high profile actions for the seizure and return of forfeit cultural material”. If you have a car with a significant Australia history, be nervous. All of this should be a warning of future potential problems for the collector car community. If there’s a way to go overboard on regulations, the government, any government, seems to find a way to make life overtly complicated. While Australia is currently the epicenter of Monty-Pythonesque import (and export) restrictions, others will follow. China, for instance, simply forbids the import of classic cars, Norway wants to eliminate ALL (new and used) gas and diesel powered cars by 2025, while India and Germany want to eliminate all new gas and diesel cars by 2030 and France by 2040. Our children will live in a very different world.
  10. Big Brother is watching

    So much of all this is nonsense. Asbestos in buildings etc is absolutely safe until some idiot disturbs it, starts pulling it out or tries to remove it. There is far more of a problem once it has been exposed. The problem is not with the asbestos but with the clouds of dust created by ham-fisted workers dragging it out and pulling things to pieces. There was a saying popular with our grand parents. "Let sleeping dogs lie." Bj.
  11. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    At last a tiny step forward! Having checked and cleaned the points in both the magneto off the engine and the spare, I now know that both produce a spark healthy enough to jump the "safety " gap at "cranking speed" and both produce a steady stream of sparks from a wire run around all six terminals on the "distributor cap" and then finishing about 1/4 inch from "earth". I have not yet fully cleaned up either but it is nice to know that I will not be wasting my time. In fact as probably should be expected the mag off the engine shows very little evidence of it's 97 years. Neither have the random collection of "timing marks"etc usually found on "old" magnetos. The "spare" shows some signs of "shelf age" but is otherwise in very good and unsullied condition. Both have all their correct knurled terminal nuts etc. It is quite evident that no one wearing a "striped apron" has been working on either of them. Bernie j. (no one wearing a "striped apron" has been working on them) The traditional working attire for a butcher!
  12. Lagonda Rapiers

    Hi Paul You are really on the ball this morning. The manifolds that I am getting from the Register "Spares" are exactly the same as the ones that I fitted when I first restored my Rapier in 1978. The problem was that seeking to improve on something that was perfectly good in the first place, I had decided to incorporate a "Balance tube" as recommended by Phillip H Smith the author of several learned books on the design of Exhaust and Inlet manifolds. The problem arose in that the inlet side of my Rapiers engine is rather crowded with the ignition distributor tucked into the space between the carburettors. Then several people commented that it was no good having the Balance tube underneath the main body of the manifold as It would fill with unburnt fuel. Unfortunately in turning them over the Balance Tube fouled on the underside of the cam box. In the end I decided to abandon the Balance tube but this left me with two rather large holes. My first thought was to make two plugs and screw them into the holes securing them with Lock-tite. The next problem was that these were not a really satisfactory because of the wall thickness and the curved nature of the manifold "walls'. The next plan was to fill the holes with "plastic metal" but there was a lingering doubt that this would eventually crack and fall out. Finally I bought some "Magic" aluminium "brazing rods" to use these required heating the manifolds to a point where the rod would melt on contact. Then allow the finished work to cool graduallyThis seemed to work OK but after returning from the weeks drive around the Western District the motor would not idle properly and I diagnosed this as an air leak in the inlet side of things. After removing the carburettors and manifold I checked the repairs by pouring Methylated spirits (alcohol) over the repairs. This showed that there were microscopic holes around the repaired area. I treated this with a skim of the plastic metal. Re asembling the manifolds In an attempt to cover all possibilities I used some one millimeter thick sheet cork for the new gasket. After I tighened up the manifold securing nuts I started the engine only to find that there was a mystery high pitched "whistle" It did not take very long to discover that in the process, I had over tighened one of these nuts and as a result the cork gasket compressed and the flange on one end of the manifold had cracked. I did consider fabricating some new manifolds in steel by having the necessary plates laser cut and using some steel tube. Having got as far as doing the drawings for the steel plates I decided that doing this was simply creating another source of frustration and that the sensible thing to do would be to simply send an email to the Rapier Register "Spares" and order a new pair of inlet manifolds. These should arive in the mail sometime in the next week or so. I will not use the sheet cork for the gaskets next time but use the same side out of a Breakfast Cereal cardboard box that I have used in the past. The only other thing that I will have to do is to match the new manifolds to my (slightly) larger than standard inlet ports. The new inlet manifold I had bought "ticked" all the boxes having a balance tube incorporated into the design. The problem with this was that in doing so increased the distance between the side of the cylinder head and the carburettor by about half an inch, As a result the carburettors fouled on the side of the bonnet (hood). There were three alternatives, 1. To remove the bonnet side and secure the bonnet top with a leather strap. 2. To have a new larger"Bulge" made into the bonnet side, This would also involve having it repainted and 3. Continue to use the manifolds tha were already on the engine having modified them to in corporate a balance tube. Having failed with all of these for various reasons, I am now back to where I had started from, only several dollars poorer! One other alternative was to attempt to repair the broken flange using the same Aluminium Brazing rod. I have already sold the "New design" manifold to another member of the Register who is building a "Special" and not so concerned about the cosmetic appearance of his car...... So now you know...... Bernie j.
  13. Lagonda Rapiers

    Now I deserve another smack, I have now discovered a new crack (air leak) in one of the inlet manifolds so I have now given up on them and have ordered a new pair from the Rapier Register "Spares". They have had a hard life & a ham-fisted owner. I did (for about five minutes) think about fabricating a pair in steel tube but decided to just order them from the UK. This one of the really good things about owning a Rapier. The "Register Spares" can supply almost anything that you are likely to require "off the shelf". Bj.
  14. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    My key is Number 39. Unfortunately the tranmission lock was smashed a very long time ago. The key I have I bought from eBay recently. Fortunately I can change gears without the lock. Apparently these early keys are considered to be "collectable". I paid $9.90 for this one, unfortunately the postage was considerably more. Bernie j.
  15. Lagonda Rapiers

    Further to the above, the generator & distributor are driven from the rear and waterpump is driven at engine speed from front of the gear to the side of the main (half time) gear while the oil pump is driven at half engine speed from the front of the "triple sprocket" at the front of the cylinder head. I hope that this is of some help. Being a four cylinder engine the timing gears are 2:1.. There are three chains one from the front of the "half-time" gear goes to a triple sprocket at the front of the cylinder head with two seperate chains going one to each camshaft. The three chains are all kept in tension by "Weller (spring) blade tensioners. The engine will "rev" happily to 6,000 rpm. Bernie j. 47240
  16. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Yes I agree with Tinindian, You wood think that it is plain enough to make you want to run away and hide in the forest. Woodn't it make a person sick-a-more. Oh deer! Bj
  17. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello Mark etc. It was good to talk with you earlier this evening. You may learn a little more about me (and Victoria) if you look at my other thread. Bernie j.
  18. Lagonda Rapiers

    Towards the end of our drive around south western Victoria the Rapier decided that it did not want to idle nicely (at 800 rpm). After diagnosing the fault as an air leak on the induction side, I have this morning removed the inlet manifolds and carburettors and discovered a small air leak due to minor damage to a gasket. I am now in the process of cutting new gaskets and hope to put it all back together again tomorrow. Leaning off the mixture is not a good idea. It serves me right for re-using a gasket last time I had the engine apart. Usually I will not use "silicone" gasket "goo". so I deserve a smack for trying to take a short cut. For the observant people looking at the photo (above) of the inlet side of the cylinder head/motor. The Generator is gear driven from the side of the timing gears, the distributor is driven by a pair of skew gears behind the generator. Oil is taken to the valve gear and the cam bearings at full pressure thorough the 5/16 copper pipe to the front of the head and drains back into the sump through the larger copper pipe, one on each side of the head. The four inlet ports have been gas-flowed and polished. Carburettors are a pair of 1 1/2 inch SUs. The exhaust side of the engine is well looked after by a matched length 4 into 2 into 1 extractor set-up. A "Geared" starter motor and full flow (canister) oil filter are tucked in under the exhaust system The "red knob" is the oil level dip-stick with the oil-filler next to it. The finned sump holds two gallons of oil under a "windage" tray. The high pressure hydraulic (black) hose" delivers oil to the full flow oil filter from a "Mini-Cooper" Concentric oil pump driven from the front of the timing gears. Water pump is also gear driven. If you have not already worked it out, there are no belt driven accessories, the cooling fan is a thermostatic controlled electric unit set to switch on at 90 degrees centigrade. Cooling water is fed along the aluminium gallery on the side of the block and into the rear of the head on the exhaust side to return to the radiator from the front of the head. Water is also bled off into the cylinder block to flow around the top of the cylinder barrels where it is most needed. Bj
  19. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    I have just had a visit from my "Star" Motor Trimmer friend Tony MCConnell. He tells me that my reclaimed "Chinese" leather will be OK fro the door trims but thinks that proper new leather will be better for the seat cushions. He also tells me that the "square weave" carpet is still available, (from Germany) so that is what it will be, exactly as original! The seats are now booked in for early in the new year. (2018) I will do the door trims etc, but he can replace the "clear" in the side screens. The previous owner has finally responded to my e-mails and phone messages to tell me he will have the hood (top) delivered sometime in the next two weeks. Fingers crossed! Bernie j.
  20. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello Mark & Lynne Thank you for making contact, where are you based in Aust. I am in East Doncaster, Victoria. I was interested to see your Canada Cycle Plate. I knew about them in Melbourne but had forgotten about their Studebaker connection. Something else to chase up. Bernie j.
  21. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank you Scott I am more used to driving with side mounted mirrors so I will probably go with what I have got. Will also keep looking for a suitable central mounting one. I do have two or three pieces of the original carpet from across below the rear seat cushion etc.so I will do some asking around. I have also included photographs of the (Domestic) Persian or Turkish Carpet on the rear seat foot rest. The slightly exotic feel of this type of design appeals to me as a contrast to the almost "spartan" feel of the rest of the car. Only time and opportunity will tell. A long long time ago I was trained and worked as a Furniture Designer and Interior Decorator/Designer. With everything else either Black Leather Black Linoleum or Black Paint combined with the Dark Blue of the body colour, I feel it needs some type of relief, even if only for the rear seat passengers. Bernie j.
  22. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank you Scott The next little gem discovered in the box of rear view mirrors was this one which will mount onto tne windscreen pillar to balance with the spotlight, complete which with its original convex mirror, which will move to the passenger (left) side of the car. This one has now been given a quick clean before preparing it for painting. The beveled edge glass while slightly tarnished is more than serviceable. This morning I also discovered another two black leather Lounge Chairs put out for collection to go to 'land fill'. While the cushions were in ruins the leather covering the out side of the arms and backs is in fine condition and will give me sufficient to line the inside of the four door pockets. Making my decision to alway carry a sharp trimming knife in the glove box of my Peugeot a wise one. While on the subject of interior trim perhaps you can tell me what is the correct covering for the floor in the rear compartment. Currently the foot rest has the remains of a dark red-blue and black "Turkish" design carpet. While probably not original it is a nice idea if I can find a suitable piece of usable second hand carpet. Or would the 'purists' hate me? Bernie j. . Bernie j.
  23. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello Again We are back from a very pleasant visit to Northern Victoria and southern New South Wales including Australia's Capital city Canberra. One find during our travells was this Roller-Smith Ammeter made inBethlehem P.A. It is a brand that I have never encountered and is not from a Studebaker Light Six as far as my limited knowledge goes. It would appear to be early 1920s and apart from some obvious chipping to the paint appears to be in excellent condition. Perhaps someone can tell me which Automobile makers used this brand and in what years. Bernie j
  24. Lagonda Rapiers

    Hello Paul Sorry I just picked up your post. Log trucks go right into the bush to collect their loads then travel down narrow roads before getting on to main roads that take them to the mill. There is only one way to really learn about our country, then you need more than two or three weeks, even then you can only hope to see a fraction of the place. Visitors should plan to stay 3 to 6 months, Hire a 4wd camper van and head off the beaten track. Have fun! Plan to see just a little bit but to see it properly. Expect the un-expected ! I have been here for over 80 years and still have just seen a fraction of the place. In six months time, at the end of our summer, those water falls will be reduced to a dribble. Bj
  25. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello Again Scott That makes two of us! Please pass on to Andrew Beckman my thanks and appreciation for all he has done. It is difficult being on the other side of the world and relying on emails to communicate. Once I start on a car I become totally immersed. As I am sure I have commented in the past, I have been spoilt by the Lagonda Rapier clan, but I have been involved with them for a very long time and have meet quite a few of them during our visits to England. Sadly we have only had the one visit to America and much of that was taken up with the Dixie Flyer and the AACA Anniversary at Louisville 2010 which tended to be just a tad overwhelming. Who knows we may live long enough to make another visit to the USA but certainly we have nothing planed right now. Bernie j.