oldcar

Members
  • Content count

    2,786
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by oldcar

  1. Lagonda Rapiers

    While I have been somewhat diverted by my latest "adventure", an early 1920s Studebaker Light Six, I did drive the Rapier out through the nearby hill country to spectate at the VSCC Rob-Roy Hillclimb. It is going as well as ever but I did discover that it was loosing water from a leak in the radiator "top-tank". I have to attend to this before we go on the VSCC's Western District - Wimmera Wander in mid-September.
  2. From time to time I mention my Lagonda Rapier on my thread under Our Cars and Restoration Projects/Packard Coupe but I thought that I really should start a thread dealing with Lagonda Rapiers here where they belong. For all those who are blinking and asking "What is a Lagonda Rapier" they are a small British car made for one year in 1934/5, until the Lagonda Company (absolutely nothing to do with Aston Martin until the late1940 when David Brown who had recently bought Aston Martin needed a decent 2 OHC engine and bought Lagonda)went into receivership. After the wash-up the Rapier continued in production, as Rapier Cars Ltd until 1938/9. Lagonda's original design brief to Timothy Ashcroft the engineer in charge of the small team given the task of creating the car was..Produce the best Light Car in the World. The result was a brilliant little sporting car with an 1100cc 2 ohc 4 cylinder engine and an ENV pre-selector transmission. Total combined production of both the Lagonda Rapier and the Rapier was less than 400 cars. To my knowledge there are about half a dozen of these cars in the US. One of the things that make these little cars so interesting (to look at) is that neither factory built a standard production body. EVERY car has an individual coach built body. No two are exactly the same. This is illustrated by the photograph taken yesterday of five of the cars situated in Melbourne Australia. Four are Lagondas and one a Rapier, they all have a body built by a different coachbuilder. Can you tell the difference? Bernie J. oldcar,
  3. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    "I would imagine during WWII parts and cars would have become very scarce" Prior to WWII during the late 1920s and 1930s Australia had the "Great Depression". That the car was taken off the road in 1941-2 could have been the result of War time Petrol Rationing and possibly the owner going into the Military Services. Bj.
  4. Good morning all, one or two of you will already know me. I have just purchased this early 1920s Stude but I am having trouble identifying what model it is. I apologise for the quality of the photograph but it was taken this morning on my wifes iPad under less than ideal conditions. The car is reputed to have been in dry storage since 1941. It is in Melbourne Australia. It is a very long time since I owned my last Stude, a Daytona Wagon. The photo shows the right hand side of the engine with the magneto and carburettor. This is unusual as the carburettor is attached to the (aluminium) cylinder head with the manifolding cast directly into the head. Can someone please identify the year and model. The Speedo shows 36,000 miles. The ignition/light switch has been broken so I will be looking for a replacement. Thank you oldcar (Bernie j)
  5. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello Again Having cleaned off the engine number I can confirm that the number shown on the Registration label is the correct one for the ENGINE in the car (2350) How that fits in with the dating of the Chassis-plate Serial Number can now hopefully be ascertained, having cleaned this properly I have to ask, Am I going mad or what? This is a new photograph taken after cleaning the plate and going over it with pencil. The next option would be to remove the plate from the chassis to see if there is anything more definite when viewed from the back. This is something I would sooner not do. By working on the contrast and shade in photoshop results in the second photograph, this shows the 22 slightly more clearly defined and the next figure could be either a 7 or a 4. How this effects the month and year it was built I will leave to the experts. Perhaps when the AOMC can give me the date that the car was first registered in Australia, this may help to arrive at a year.
  6. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello Again. HELPPPPPP! Having cleaned off the engine number I can confirm that the number shown on the Registration label is the correct one for the engine in the car ( 2350 ) How that fits in with the dating of the Chassis-plate Serial Number can now hopefully be ascertained, having cleaned this properly I have to ask if the one I thought I had read in the half light last night 1002350 or the one that I can read in the full light of day having washed the Chassis plate off with a rag wet with petrol 100 3 ? I am sorry but I really do not know. What I do know is that IF correct this must make the whole story of the car even more confusing. Was it just wishful thinking that the engine number and the (chassis) Serial number would be so similar. Bernie j
  7. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hi Scott Fortunately the head on the engine appears to be OK but I will not know until it is off and cleaned up. The welded one came in the rear seat. I am still waiting on the AOMC ( Assn of Motoring Clubs) the organisation that has all the early Registration documentation archived. This was originally all hand written on a card index system. They have discovered that at some time in its early life the car changed its Registration number. Hopefully they will discover the date of its first registration and the name and address of its first owners. As with many old hand written records, tracking them can take some time. We are lucky that they have not all been destroyed. I have seen some of them and even to be able to read the writing is a bonus. Not all were legible, some are even written in pencil. The Registration actually expired in December 1941. One possible explanation is that at some time the engine has been swapped for a later one, something we will not know until I can read the engine number. Bernie j. So far, we have found that: - Registration 103981 was issued in 1926 for a Morris - At some time later it was issued to the Studebaker - 103981 was cancelled in Feb 1942. - but prior to 103981 the vehicle was previously registered as 74593 - we are still working on 74593.
  8. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank you Stude Light I have just had a quick look and there is a number stamped exactly where you suggest. It is going to take a little more cleaning before I can read it. Without having the engine out I doubt I would have found it without your help. With 97 years of build up of dirt and oil it would have been impossible to find without knowing precisely where to look. Bernie j
  9. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank you studeboy My next option was to remove the starter motor so I could throughly examine that area on the side of the block. It is a bit too late to start tonight (9.45 pm). More tomorrow Bj.
  10. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    For more interesting information and detailed sectional drawings of the Studebaker motor go to :-http://forums.aaca.org/forum/21-studebaker-erskine-rockne/ Thank you Bernie j.
  11. Hello all I have as recently as yesterday bought an early 1920s Studebaker Light Six, as it is not yet at home I cannot tell you a lot. I am led to believe that it has been in dry storage since 1941. I do have just a few photographs to share with you. I am a little puzzled as the carburettor and inlet manifold appears to be different to other photographs I have been able to find. The top & side screens do come with the car but are very tatty as is the upholstery. I have also started a thread on the Studebaker section of the Forum. Bernie j.
  12. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello NZCarnerd, I had seen photographs of that "beauty" before, it reminded me NOT to paint my car yellow with red wheels. I think that the original Black mudguards (fenders) with Belgium Blue up to the waist line then Black above it, suits my car. I still have to decide whether to paint my wheels the same Belgium Blue as the body colour or Black. I have found traces of both colours on different wheels on the car. Hi OnSafari. The inlet manifold is a three forked passage cast into the cylinder head, the gas passes into the block behind the valves through three transfer ports so there are six separate exhaust ports and three siamesed inlet ducts/ports The order of the valves is from front to back, E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E The exhaust manifold shows this spacing clearly in the drawing below. The carburettor is mounted on the other (right) side of the cylinder head. In cold climates hot air is drawn from around the exhaust manifold through the duct across to the carburettor. i.e. via the " Carburettor Hot Air Stove". Bernie j.
  13. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Can any one please tell me definitely where the engine number is actually located. I can only find one likely site on the left side of the block high up next to Number six exhaust port. The problem is that I cannot clearly make out what the number, if there is one, is? The casting date as seen in the third photograph is 9-14-20 i.e.. 9th month 14th day 1920. The casting number is 43151 1. In the photograph the first digit (4) of the number is accidently cut off. At this point my camera battery decided to become "exhausted". I now have it on charge but that will take a little time Is there a Studebaker Historian who can decipher any of this for me?
  14. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank You Terry What is of real interest is your suggestion that my Studebaker could be the "earliest known surviving Light Six" Changing the subject ever so slightly, I have just purchased via the internet a copy of the original "information on the care and operation" While completely intact it is obviously well read although somewhat disappointingly there are no entries in the ten pages devoted to memoranda at the back of the book, nor is there a section devoted to magneto ignition. In fact there is no mention of a magneto. None the less if I am to learn even one thing from it, it is money well spent. Bj.
  15. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    I do hope that you are not too offended by the sight of them, I have owned and used them for a very long time. I am not about to "bin" them. They only have to last another 20 years to see my 100th Birthday. I probably will not use them very much after then! Bj
  16. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Thank you, I appreciate your interest and assistance. Bj
  17. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Probably the most daunting aspect of bringing it back from the "brink" is the upholstery. There is just enough left to see how it was done. Unfortunately It will probably also be the most expensive job needing to be done. I still have to collect the hood (top) which I imagine will be in tatters too.
  18. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Here we go again, off and running. Having attempted to push the Studebaker about alone and unaided, I decided that it really did need some better tires before It would roll easily. That was at about 9.30 this morning. It is now four forty five. Lunch time was extended to watch a French horror movie on midday TV. That and the fact that I had to cut one tire off accounts for the time taken. The six wheels can now go off to my friendly sand blaster's in the morning Bj.
  19. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    At last the Studebaker is safely ensconced in our carport having arrived about lunch time yesterday. Fortunately the one item of interest, the wheel spanner, was safely tucked away in a box of bits in the rear seat. The "spare" cylinder headhas had some serious repair work in the past but it does show how the transfer of fuel from the inlet manifold was managed by three large "transfer ports between the head and the cylinder block. It also shows the quite advanced combustion chamber shape. For more detail see my thread under Studebaker further on in the Forum. Bj.
  20. My Australian friends may be interested to read this, others Amused if it wasn't serious. Bernie j. Australia, Asbestos and Collector Cars Our story begins in 2003 when the Australian government issued a zero-tolerance ban on any and all asbestos products, aimed mainly at imported Chinese drywall, a problem America also faced at the time. Fast forward to March 6, 2017 when, without prior warning to Shipping and Customs agents, let alone to owners, the Australian Border Force (ABF) began randomly testing all imported collector cars for asbestos, without any industry consultation, procedures or practices in place. One of our clients had two cars already en-route to Australia and so had no choice but to comply. One was a 1966 Shelby Mustang 350 GT and the second a stock 1966 Mustang donor-car, found together as “barn finds” and imported into Australia for restoration. Making rules on the run Inspectors were picked from an ABF approved list of asbestos assessors, none of whom had collector car experience since this was an all-new process. An ABF officer and a representative of the customs brokers also had to be in attendance while the owner/importer was required to provide two mechanics, tools, a floor jack, jack stands, safety clothing and masks. All five charged by the hour, with the work being done at the customs wharf. The inspection of the Mustangs took a full 8-hour day times five people. The front brake pads, rear brake shoes, exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe gaskets from both cars plus the add-on A/C compressor from the stock Mustang were all taken for inspection. Some of the sealer from inside the wheel wells, around the firewall and the caulking around the windshield were also removed for testing. Additionally, samples were cut from the headliner material, the door frame inner padding, the hood scoop, the brake air ducts, the windshield washer bag and sample sections were cut from the wiring loom. As the 350 GT was pushed onto a hoist the ribbed aluminium oil pan fins were damaged. The pleas of both mechanics to cease the destructive sample-taking were ignored by the inspector, the customs agent and the ABF officer. As the day wound down the inspector recommended the removal of the engine and transmission for disassembly and removal of the front fenders and doors for further examination. Because of that day’s interpretation of the regulations, the owner was not allowed to be at the inspection. Moving to plan “B” During & after the destructive first inspection, endless e-mails and calls between the customs broker and the ABF, the owner was able to get both mustangs taken to a well-respected exotic car sales and service center in Sydney. ABF required both a removal expert and an assessor to supervise the work, a hygienist to test the air for asbestos (how could I make this up) and two mechanics in space suits, all to remove a clutch. The caulking around the windshield, firewall and inner wheel wells was also removed but reason prevailed and so the engines were not disassembled. Both cars were then released to the owner. Total time was two months. Costs including the two removal experts, two assessors, two mechanics, (twice) the hygienist, plus the asbestos lab analyses and bulk sample report was approximately $15,000, not including the damage and cost to replace the seized parts on both cars plus the possibility of fines for non-compliance. Meanwhile, across the continent Meanwhile, in Perth, on the other side of Australia, an enthusiast with a DKW obsession imported a rare 1953 DKW F89, a two cylinder, 23 hp, 684 cc post-war Germany econo-car built from 1950-54 and based on a pre-war design. Although 60,000 DKW F89s were built, most were scrapped as the German economy recovered and much better cars came to market. DKW was acquired by Mercedes in 1957, sold to Volkswagen-Audi in 1964 and DKW ceased to exist. The DKW in question was sold new into Portugal, was complete, relatively rust free and at $7,000 Aus ($5,400 USD) was a very affordable and unique collector car. As the third collector car to be inspected and the first in the Perth area, the owner was lucky. The asbestos inspector was both reasonable and horrified by the tale of the two Mustangs imported into Sydney, which had quickly gone through the collector car community. The initial inspection found asbestos in the rear brakes, the head and manifold gaskets and the under-coating in the wheel wells. The car was immediately impounded and the real problems began. ABF again changes the rules The owner requested that he and a mechanic remove the offending material, but this was rejected by the ABF as they were not “authorized” to enter the “secure” dockside area. ABF insisted on a professional asbestos remover, but none had vintage car experience. The owner next asked to attend with the chosen asbestos remover but was again denied access to his car. A week later ABF agreed to the owner’s request to have his mechanic remove the asbestos, but after completing the paperwork, permits and an inspection time, ABF decided that removing the parts in the storage depot might be unsafe and the permit was cancelled. ABF first declined and then approved transport to Classic Gasoline, a collector car service center in Perth. ABF then again changed their mind and advised the car could only be moved to a certified asbestos removal center. After realizing there was no certified asbestos removal center that could do the work, ABF relented and permitted the car to be moved to Classic Gasoline. Paperwork recommenced, but at the last-minute Quarantine intervened, advising that the DKW could only be moved after it had been spray cleaned, but that it could only be spray cleaned after the asbestos was removed. As the owner wrote, “Catch 22 meets Franz Kafka”. Back to plan “A” Everyone agreed to go back to plan “A”, a removal time was again booked only to have someone at ABF again demand the work be done by an asbestos specialist. After yet more calls, e-mails and negotiations it was finally agreed that ABF, the original inspector, two mechanics from Classic Gasoline and the owner would inspect the car, agree to the work to be done and the owner and mechanics would then be allowed to complete the work at dockside. Thanks to the DKW’s small engine, it was lifted out without a hoist for disassembly. After even more paperwork, ABF certified the removed parts and arranged their seizure and destruction. The additional storage fees were $3,000, the mechanics charged $1,500 and the shipping agents were another $1,500 plus the cost of finding and replacing the seized parts, so almost equal to the original $7,000 purchase price. The local ABF did not issue any fines for the non-compliant parts. The good news is that most new cars, world-wide, were asbestos free by 1999, but the bad news is that virtually all cars built before 1999 have asbestos-based components. All imported cars must obtain an asbestos test for their vehicles BEFORE they are shipped to Australia, but few countries have certified collector car asbestos inspectors. If asbestos is identified, it must be removed before the vehicle is shipped and owners must confirm the vehicle is asbestos free. The ABF doesn’t have the time, space and manpower to inspect every car, but no-one should take the risk of being caught up in the costs and damage of a random inspection, the possible seizure and destruction of the car plus the reality of fines because the seized parts were not zero asbestos compliant. The Australian Imported Motor Vehicle Industry Association is lobbying the ABF to standardize a consistent inspection regime, but the extra red tape, inspection costs and uncertainty have slowed imports to a crawl. Additionally, the new rules apply to imports AND exports, which will be another yet-to-be-defined learning curve! But wait, it gets more complicated If the asbestos-related import/export restrictions were not enough, the Australian government is also ramping efforts to keep what are described as “culturally significant automobiles” in Australia and is considering the seizure of any vehicle deemed to have been “illegally” exported since 1987. Based on the UNESCO convention in trafficking of illicit cultural property, the proposed legislation would include any vehicle designed by an Australian, built in Australia, altered in Australia, or strongly associated with an Australian. To quote from the proposed legislation, “the best way of promoting the regime would be a couple of high profile actions for the seizure and return of forfeit cultural material”. If you have a car with a significant Australia history, be nervous. All of this should be a warning of future potential problems for the collector car community. If there’s a way to go overboard on regulations, the government, any government, seems to find a way to make life overtly complicated. While Australia is currently the epicenter of Monty-Pythonesque import (and export) restrictions, others will follow. China, for instance, simply forbids the import of classic cars, Norway wants to eliminate ALL (new and used) gas and diesel powered cars by 2025, while India and Germany want to eliminate all new gas and diesel cars by 2030 and France by 2040. Our children will live in a very different world.
  21. Early 1920s Studebaker ?

    Hello again Gary Finally I have the Studebaker safely at home, The five tires are all rock hard and I doubt that regardless of the ability of the tubes to hold air they will change shape very much. Among the "stuff" left in a box in the rear of the car was a wheel spanner along with a few other trinkets. The "chassis plate" is still where it belongs under the left hand side front mudguard (fender). The cover for the fuse box was on the front floor. The cars is now lifted and standing on jack-stands ready for me to remove the wheels. Once the tires are removed the wheels can go to be sand blasted prior to repainting "Belgium Blue", or should they be Black? Right now they are an overall rust & dirt colour. While a minor detail, it is disappointing that the cresent moulding from around the waistline of the car has been removed. Hopefully it can be replaced with new brass strip. Much of the "gold" pinstriping is actually still intact. The "serial number" is the same as on the registration label on the windscreen with the addition of 100 prefix making it 1002350. The "spare" cylinder head has had some serious repairs so hopefully the one on the car is OK. More pleasing was the discovery of the four name plates from the centre of the hub-caps. I can see that I will have my work cut-out for me for quite some time to come. Please don't go away, this my first venture into Studebakers and I have a lot to learn. At least unlike some of my earlier projects this one is relatively complete and unmolested. Bernie j.
  22. Big Brother is watching

    Hello I am in Melbourne too. The friend with the exhaust mainfold gaskets lives in Berwick. I have no reason to doubt him. In the past (three or four years ago) I bought gaskets from Olsen's in the USA without any problem. Right now I do not want to buy any on the basis of, "Try it and see what happens". I have asked Olsens if they can supply a signed statement that their Gaskets do not contain Asbestos. I have not received any answer. I have not ordered the Gasket set they supply for the Studebaker. End of story. Bj
  23. Big Brother is watching

    Unfortunately, it is just the world we live in!
  24. New here- 1st Post: what is it

    It certainly is slightly weird if the six ports do line up with the exhaust there is no sign of any inlet either on the reverse side of the block or if it like the 1921-2 Light Six with the aluminium cylinder head, the inlet manifold cast into the head there would have to be transfer holes between the head and the block. There is no evidence of this either. I think that some more information is required. Physically checking the block would quickly show which valves the ports served . Just be carefull that there are no nasty spiders or other biting insects lurking in the ports before you poke your finder into them. Bj
  25. Big Brother is watching

    Even closer to home, a friend has recently had a parcel from the (Lagonda) Rapier Register "Spares'in the UK impounded by the Australian Customs Service, because it contained among other things some exhaust flange gaskets. This was eventually released but only after he had obtained a signed statement from the Club Spares that they were not "New old Stock" but newly manufactured and did not contain asbestos. Bj.