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Everything posted by oldcar

  1. Really this is more of an advanced warning. Yesterday I paid for the 1912 Humber which will become my next project. First thing is to get it transported from Willunga in the McLaren Vale wine district of South Australia the 800 kilometers to our home in Doncaster East, Victoria, Australia. This should be happening sometime during the coming week. The Humber is an 11hp four cylinder, side valve. It will be my first restoration of a Pre WW1 car, it is truly a basket case; totally dismantled and with what remains of the body little more that scaps of rusty sheet metal. As I have commented to some of my friends the only way that it could be reduced to smaller pieces would be to remove the spokes from the wheels. Bj.
  2. Hello OnSafari No I must admit I have not even thought about a Wolseley Hornet (yet). Something will no doubt drop out of the wood-work but the owner of the car mentioned, a Morris 10/Six, has not even responded to my request for more detail and I am not going on a three hour drive without some idea of what I am going to look at. Bj
  3. Thank you both for your enthusiastic support. At present my first priority is to get all the Humber bits safely packed up for their long sea voyage. I have made some enquiries about a couple of cars, one is in a deceased estate and has been garaged for over 30 years, It is a bit scruffy and has some rust. The other the same old established British brand is a little older The same age as the Lagonda, 1934. This one is a four door Saloon, something I have never thought about before. It is a small 1.5 Litre six cylinder and as such extremely rare, just 17 known to have survived world wide. I am waiting on some photographs for both cars. Both are about 150kms away but in different directions. Both cars have their original bodies in relatively good condition. (Restorable). Perhaps at this time in my life a saloon is what I need. Bernie j.
  4. With the Humber 75% packed and ready for shipment to the UK. There are four of these wire mesh crates of small parts, including a pile of body brackets and fittings all made in Humber's own Blacksmith shop. The question is should at my great age (80) should I be thinking about another perhaps simpler project? One thing for sure is that IF there is to be another project It will almost certainly of British origin and definitely pre WW2. I will not receive the final payment for the Humber until June 30 which gives me a little time to do some thinking and some research. I am reminded that I have to be careful not to get splinters in my fingers while scratching my head. Bernie j.
  5. Just a little more progress on the Rapier, I have spent the last two days closing down the tappet clearance to .007 in on the inlet side and .009 in for the exhaust. While this may sound like a long time to adjust the tappets "it ain't that simple". As I was wanting to close the gap down and I really would sooner not use shims, I had to go through my small stock of valve thimbles and sort out eight thicker ones, measuring each one with my one inch micrometer. Then came the fun part, to grind each of these to the required thickness using an oil stone, removing a minute amount of metal at a time rechecking its thickness after a few minute's grinding, then finally trial fitting the thimble back on it's valve stem to check the clearance between the thimble and the cam follower with a feeler gauge of the required thickness having brought the cam to the point of maximum clearance. (ie the back of the cam). This process had to be repeated, turning the engine over for each valve. Pushing the car back and forward with top gear engaged. It is now running much more quietly and idling nicely. Just as well as when I took the car for a quick run down the street, the first time in almost five months, I very nearly ran out of petrol. I had to switch over to the "reserve" to start it and drive into the car-port. At least I know that I will have finally got rid of the last of the dud petrol that was the cause of all the problems. Having drained out as much as possible I had put 10 Litres of 98 octane into the tank. I can now fill the tank with 98 and be fairly sure that it is not being contaminated. For all the people unused to basic measuring tools I have added the photographs below. The oil-stone (carborundum) is held in my bench vice, This is more usually used for sharpening knive-blades and chisels. With care you can remove very small amounts of metal. The short piece of knurled rod is used to hold the thimble against the oil-stone while grinding the face. Bernie J
  6. From time to time I mention my Lagonda Rapier on my thread under Our Cars and Restoration Projects/Packard Coupe but I thought that I really should start a thread dealing with Lagonda Rapiers here where they belong. For all those who are blinking and asking "What is a Lagonda Rapier" they are a small British car made for one year in 1934/5, until the Lagonda Company (absolutely nothing to do with Aston Martin until the late1940 when David Brown who had recently bought Aston Martin needed a decent 2 OHC engine and bought Lagonda)went into receivership. After the wash-up the Rapier continued in production, as Rapier Cars Ltd until 1938/9. Lagonda's original design brief to Timothy Ashcroft the engineer in charge of the small team given the task of creating the car was..Produce the best Light Car in the World. The result was a brilliant little sporting car with an 1100cc 2 ohc 4 cylinder engine and an ENV pre-selector transmission. Total combined production of both the Lagonda Rapier and the Rapier was less than 400 cars. To my knowledge there are about half a dozen of these cars in the US. One of the things that make these little cars so interesting (to look at) is that neither factory built a standard production body. EVERY car has an individual coach built body. No two are exactly the same. This is illustrated by the photograph taken yesterday of five of the cars situated in Melbourne Australia. Four are Lagondas and one a Rapier, they all have a body built by a different coachbuilder. Can you tell the difference? Bernie J. oldcar,
  7. The Good Thing is that The Humber is going back to the UK and to an Enthusiast who will complete the restoration. I am sure that my friends at the Humber Register will give him all the support and assistance he needs. I was for once amazed just how quickly it sold, It was one of those occasions when all the boxes were ticked just at the right time. I can now give all my attention to getting the Lagonda Rapier sorted out and running as it should. A big Thank You to all my friends on the AACA Forum for all your interest and support. Bernie Jacobson
  8. It is with mixed feelings that I have to tell you that the 1912 Humber has been sold and will be making its way back to the place of its birth, England. I now realise that I would never have been able to finish the restoration. If I am to take on another restoration project it will have to be a smaller and more complete car. Meanwhile I still have some "sorting" to do on the Lagonda Rapier. Bernie j.
  9. Further to the above, I have placed a For Sale advert on Prewar Car http://www.prewarcar.com/classifieds/ad221031.html I have received a number of enquiries and currently the car is "on hold" until next Wednesday. Bernie j.
  10. Almost unbelievably I am still having trouble when starting the Rapier from cold. I have tried three different heat range spark plugs and as many different gap settings. I am now back to the same NGK BP7ES that I have been using for years, with a 30 thou gap. I started of using 25 thou gap and have now opened then up slightly. (5 thou) I have also decided to close the tappet clearance down from 14 thou exhaust and 10 thou inlet to 8 thou on both the exhaust and inlet (cold) but that involves ordering some new valve stem "thimbles". Tappet adjustment is done by using different thickness thimbles (what you may call "lash-caps"). Using some very clever engineering the cam followers can be moved side ways to permit the thimbles to be changed quickly and easily without all the bother of lifting the camshaft. some people are happy to use shims placed inside the thimble but I don't really like doing this as the shims tend to hammer out over time and it is possible for small fragments to drop down, eventually ending up in the sump. The engine does have a "Full-flow" filter but I still do not like the idea of little pieces of hardened steel floating around in the oil. All this is my own fault, this engine has during my ownership, over the last thirty or forty years, has been run on various stages of tune from "Touring" to "Full-race" and now could be best described as "Fast touring" or perhaps "Super-Sports". Perhaps not what an eighty year old should be driving but then "Eighty is the new Fifty". That is years old not MPH! Bernie j.
  11. Hello OnSafari Please don't become too agitated, I don't expect to sell the Humber over night, that said, I really cannot see myself just walking away and leaving it as virtually all the previous owners over the past 60 years have. Once I have finished two or three more necessary jobs on the Lagonda, if the Humber is unsold, it will not be simply left to gather dust. I may have to adjust my plans for it slightly. Don't go away. Bernie j.
  12. Hello Paul Thank you, yes in the end I decided that was the best option, as Helen (my wife) commented; we have done over 100,000 miles using the same inlets. To use the "new" manifold would have entailed either making some significant alterations to the bonnet (hood) side or leaving it off. All this means that I now have a brand new inlet manifold sitting on a shelf that (cost over $200) I will not be using. To make a new bonnet side, or to make the necessary changes to the original to accommodate the carbs using the new manifold would cost nearer to $1,000. Bj
  13. I know that most of you have already seen photographs of the Rapier engine before but for anyone who is interested here are todays photographs of the engine now that it all together and starting on the button and running nicely, idling smoothly at 800 rpm and 40 psi oil pressure. So what is so special about the one "odd" cam cover nut? It is the last surviving example of Beatrice Shilling's dedication to weight saving. Purpose made at the Royal Aircraft Establishment at Farnborough (England) in the early 1950s it is Duralumin. Bj
  14. Something for the Packard owner who thought that they had everything. A Packard Automobile Club odAustralia key fob. Still in the original presentation box. All you pay is the packing a postage. Send me a PM or email <twooldlags@gmail.com>
  15. It must be something to do with my advanced/advancing age. After almost five months of working and worrying on a daily basis over the extremely taxing rebuild of my Lagonda Rapier's engine I find I have little appetite to start working again on the HUMBER. I have now decided to offer it For Sale. I should not need to tell you that this is an extremely rare opportunity to obtain a Brass Era car that is almost complete albeit totally dismantled. To learn more send me a PM or email me direct <twooldlags@gmail.com> Bernie j.
  16. Thank you Paul It is one that I would sooner not have but I will keep you informed. The good news is that finally The missing parcel that was coming EXPRESS AIRMAIL from the UK has finally arrived. It was posted on 10/03/17 so I guess that the Express Aeroplane that was bring it ran out of steam or the Pilot got tired of pedalling.
  17. Finally I have the Rapier all back together but I am having a small problem sorting out the static ignition timing with the electronic ignition. It may be something I am doing but to my simple mind it would appear that the timing of the point of spark is not properly synchronised with the rotor and the distributor cap. Using a timing light it would appear that it is timed to "spark" when the rotor arm is halfway between two pick-up contacts. If any of that makes sense. One thing is sure it does not want to start! I am tempted to pull it all out and put the points set back in. I am becoming very expert in throwing money into the bin....... I will wait until Monday when I can talk with the experts who supplied and fitted the Electronic set-up. Apart from that and one or two small oil leaks it is looking good. I actually gave it a wash last thing this afternoon. It looks a whole lot better all in one piece and with all the grubby hand prints etc washed off. Bj.
  18. With the exhaust headers all but finished I have turned my attention to fitting the carburettors. I am now waiting on some gaskets. With the headers in place I can then refit the muffler and tail pipe. Once again I have run into strife with the inlet side, it is virtually impossible to mount the carbs onto the manifold with the dreaded balance tube in place. I have now removed this yet again and will investigate fitting screw-in plugs into the holes. This will involve cleaning up the holes and tapping a thread into them before making the screw-in plugs. I may be being over cautious but I cannot bring myself to trust the epoxy "stuff" to be a permanent fix. All it would need is for this to crack or partially fall out to weaken the mixture and cause havoc. I really cannot afford another major engine rebuild. Neither the cost in Dollars or the mental and physical strain. Bj.
  19. Oh Dear! I must be getting old! I have spend the afternoon welding the exhaust headers together, sounds easy doesn't it? Just for six lengths of pipe, a steel plate with four big holes and eight little ones and two or three joining pieces. Having made a couple of false starts I decided that the time had come, I have replenished my two gas bottles and bought a couple of tubes of welding rod. Some four hours later it is about 90% done. Possibly the tricky bit was making the headers so they went on and came off almost as easily, as I had explained earlier. I can tell you now:- It ain't all that easy, another hour or three and it will be done. It is now time to turn off the gas for today and get cleaned up ready to pour the cook that all important"Pre-dinner Drink"...... Cheers! Bj.
  20. Back to square one, the original "Barker" inlet manifolds now fitted with a larger "Balance pipe" finally installed on the cylinder head, one more positive step towards having the Lagonda back together again and running. Bj.
  21. For all the experts on "tuned length" exhaust systems and followers of "Phillip H Snith", I know that none the four primary pipes are exactly the same length to the last millimetre. I have increased the size of the secondary pipes to 1 3/4 inch diameter and fitting them all in while leaving at least half an inch clearance all around was quite a task! I can still take them off and put them back on again without having to remove any body parts, mudguards (fenders) etc which in my book is a major achievement. I still have quite a bit of welding to do and to tailor the "collector" for the end of the secondary pipes where the exhaust will go into the one, two inch diameter, pipe leading to the muffler. This is a basic 4-2-1 system which I consider (among other people) to be the best arrangement for all round use. It gives a good spread of power over the entire rev range. 4-1 systems may give slightly more power at peak revs but how often do you drive a "road" car flat out? I have just cut up a 4-1 system which has hung un-used on the wall for years. I wanted to use the steel base plate. Bj. The space below is for all the people who would like to tell us all about their favourite exhaust system/s........ Yes even MG owners, Here is your chance.....
  22. Happy Easter. I have decided to go back to where I was in January, using the opriginal "Barker" manifolds but with the balance pipe I made then but did not use. All the experts suggested that it would not work with the balance pipe on the underside of the inlet tract, it would fill up with unburnt fuel. I will wait and see before commenting further. I am now waiting for the super strong epoxy that is to hold the balance pipe in place to sets. On the exhaust side; of course the middle of the Easter holidays is the ideal time to run out of gas, no not petrol, but oxygen and acetylene. I have just replaced the old (leaking hoses). I probably have about a days work to finish the hard part of the exhaust. I will then have to make some decisions whether to replace the muffler and tail pipe or just the tail pipe. There is really nothing wrong with the muffler except age and I am very much against getting rid of things (or people) just because they are becomming old. It (the muffler) is a very eficient design and works very well, it is quiet, but does not create any excessive back pressure being a "straight through" type.
  23. Firstly MR2Red You are way behind the times! BOC have what they call their "D" Plan,there is no rent on the D size bottles and the cost to refill is extremely competitive compared to the Retail Price charged by Bunnings. I was probably one of BOC's first customers to adopt the D Plan. Bj Hello Paul Life will continue, Once I have finished fabricating the new extractor exhaust system, I will transfer my attention back to the inlet manifold. I don't intend to chop up the original panel or otherwise mess about with the car. Enhancing the cars performance is one thing, choping up panels is something else. Bj.
  24. IHello everyone I am actually back in body if not in spirit. Having received my new inlet manifold I find that withpout some drastic surgery to the right hand side of the Rapier's bonnet (hood) I cannot fit in my 1 1/2 inch SU carburettors so it is back to square one. Meanwhile I am doing a juggling act with all my pieces of exhaust pipe. Again it is a space problem but one that I must solve. The existing (1984) extractor manifold is now wafer thin and cannot possibly last very much longer. The problem is that the secondary pipes (1 3/4 inch pipe) have no more that a 1/4 clearance where they pass down beside the oil filter housing and the starter motor. Neither can easily be moved. Finally at about 4.30 pm this afternoon I have run out of both Oxygen and Acetylene. It looks like a quiet Easter. I still have to weld up the "collector" that takes the exhaust from the two secondary pipes into a single 2 Inch piple leading to the muffler. Happy Easter Bernie J.
  25. While our son Steve is working on the inlet manifold rather than sit and twiddle my thumbs I have just started on the exhaust side of the engine. The first three photographs are Steve's the last two are mine. You may have gathered that as mentioned in my earlier post, KG 5363's inlet ports are just a whisker bigger than standard. Bj