PFitz

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About PFitz

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  1. PFitz

    Exhaust vent for shop needed.

    If you need to use an explosion proof motor, make sure that any metal duct work is also well grounded to the electric system safety ground. Modern paint vapors can cause static inside the duct work. Paul
  2. PFitz

    franklin 11b hard shifting gears

    Thicker gear oil is a Band-Aid, not the cure. If everything is working as it should, then gear oil as light as SAE 85-140 works fine in that transmission. Many reasons that gears grind that fall into two categories. A. Operator error. 1. Some drivers not used to early straight-cut gear boxes try to shift too quickly, like it's a modern synchromesh box. 2. Shifting at too high of an engine RPM, like a more modern transmission allows. Cure is, shift at lower engine rpm, and shift more slowly. B. Mechanical problems other than mis-adjustment of the clutch linkage (most common problem). 1. Clutch disc warped from excessive slipping and overheating. 2. A mix of clutch friction facing dust and oil "paste" buildup in the narrow gap between outer edge of disc and inner wall of flywheel housing causing drag. On all but some of the earliest Series 10, through to Series 130 clutch discs. 3. The rubberized flexible fabric rings that attach the outer disc to the hub becoming old and too stiff to allow the disc to "relax" into alignment when in use. makes it act like a warped clutch disc 4. Cotton fibers in original flexible fabric rings rotting and breaking down unevenly. 5. Uneven rust buildup under fabric rings causing misalignment of outer ring of disc and it's hub. 6. Wrong thickness of friction facings used as replacement. 7. Whoever riveted replacement facings didn't check disc for being flat and straight, thus causing friction facings to not be seated properly. A good working clutch disc has to have very close tolerances. If you want to know how to fix the mechanical problems, PM me. Paul
  3. PFitz

    Appropriate amperage reading at idle?

    Jim, You have a message. Paul
  4. PFitz

    Brake lights on again!

    That's around what many of the older working switches show for a reading. Sometimes, if you really press hard on the brake pedal, you can get the reading to go lower as the pressure on the metal diaphragm gets pushed harder onto the internal contacts and thus making a better connection. Somehow with yours, the diaphragm disc is either out of position, or not able to flex back, or something is bridging and shorting those contacts without pressure. Either way your good to go now. Glad you found it. Paul
  5. PFitz

    Brake lights on again!

    As you can see in my picture and Curti's. The 113 only accepts ring terminal wire ends. The 142 has holes in the terminal posts to take tinned, bare wire ends, or ring terminals. The 113 matches the original pressure switches used in the late 1920s to at least mid 1930s Wagner Lockheed master cylinders. But how late in production the staggered-length terminal post type like yours and the 113 were used, I don't know. And if you order new wiring harnesses from Rhode Island Wire , they come with the correct size soldered-on ring terminals like the originals used. There is also a version of that same 1/8 inch pipe thread pressure switch for use with the later press-on type connectors and Rhode Island Wire has the correct wire terminal connectors for those. Paul
  6. PFitz

    Brake lights on again!

    Yes, moves meter reading off zero, even if making contact. There's the world of new, perfect connects,..... and then there's the world of old car connections. Old brake switches, even the best of those that work, do not have "perfect" contacts - they get cruddy with age. So, they will show some amount of resistance reading when the contact diaphragm closes across the contacts under pressure. If they have no pressure and show a reading (or brake lights on) the switch contacts are shorted to each other. When doing an ohm reading, zero an analogue meter's needle. Then touch the probes to the switch contacts and the needle will move off zero to show a reading of the resistance to the flow of the low battery voltage of the meter through those less than perfect contacts. Digital meters will move off 00.0, or OL (open line), and show a number readout for the resistance through the switch. For those interested here's pictures of the new NAPA Echlin SL113 switch and the note that comes in the box with it that warns against using silicone brake fluid. Paul
  7. PFitz

    Brake lights on again!

    With the switch wires disconnected, and the ohm meter hooked up to the switch contacts, if the meter needle moves off zero to show a reading, then the switch is shorted internally. Time for a trip to the auto parts or motorcycle shop to get a new pressure switch. Looking at the one in your picture NAPA has them - Echlin #113. Same as used in Wagner Lockheed systems since 1928. And as to the "rumor" of not using silicon brake fluid...... In the new Echlin 113 switch I bought at NAPA last December, was a factory note saying do not use DOT 5 fluid with that switch. No explanation on the note why that is. Paul
  8. PFitz

    Brake lights on again!

    Pressure switches usually fail in the off position, less likely to fail in on. However, there's a very simple way to test the switch. Disconnect the switch wires and hook a volt/ohm meter to it. Put the meter on the ohm scale and touch the meter probes to the switch contacts and see if there is a reading higher than zero. That indicates the switch is making contact. If no reading, then more likely the master cylinder piston cup is not moving back far enough to be just beyond the VERY tiny hole of the compensating port when the pedal is released and allow the pressure to bleed back into the brake fluid reservoir. The link rod needs to be adjusted shorter so that the piston retracts further in the bore just barely enough to uncover the compensating port opening inside the bore. Sometimes that port is so small (sometimes as small as .025 inch), or plugged with crude, that many brake system novices aren't aware it's there. If you can move the pedal and piston further back by pulling on the pedal then it's a too-weak return spring. If there's a pedal stop and you can get the lights to go off by pulling on the link rod, then the stop is adjusted wrong, or if not adjustable, there's slop in the pedal and link rod pivot connections. Paul
  9. PFitz

    Cool Weld, Long Island City, NY

    Do you mean "Superweld" ? They are on Gazza Blvd, in Farmingdale Long Island. I used them many years ago for welding cracked straight 8 Pearce-Arrow exhaust manifolds. Did nice work. Paul
  10. PFitz

    Vacuum tank fuel filter

    ac Ok, here's that missing info. If you convert inches of mercury of an automotive vacuum gauge to psi, you'll see that even as low a vacuum reading of 5 in/hg - about equivalent to tromping on the gas pedal after downshifting to maintain speed going up a steep hill - the vacuum tank can produce over 2 psi of suction force on the fuel line. That's about the same fuel line pressure that the mechanical pumps produced that replaced vacuum tanks in the late 1920's. And, even at that low psi the fuel line still can deliver much more fuel volume than the carb jets require. Next question might be,.... will fuel flow through an inline filter that is located between the vacuum tank and a carburetor with just the very slight pressure of gravity. Yes it will, easily. I've installed fuel filters between vacuum tanks and carbs many times and never had a fuel flow shortage. Paul
  11. PFitz

    Vacuum tank problems

    Dave, you have mail. Paul
  12. PFitz

    Tire replacement questions - 1929 Model 135

    Split rings I don't mind, but I used to hate having to wrestle and curse with the early split rims. Zen I got a split rim tool and now I'm a lot more Karma. Paul
  13. PFitz

    Tire replacement questions - 1929 Model 135

    No need for a cage or other contraptions. Many car owners already have a cheap, portable, and safe method in their car,........ their tow rope or strap. After the snap ring is in place, lace a 1/2 nylon rope snuggly around the tire and rim, also passing it between the spokes. Make at least a dozen or more turns spaced out around the tire. Tie the ends off and inflate the tire. If the ring should come loose the 1/2 inch rope is more than strong enough to retain it and prevent you getting hit with it. Paul
  14. PFitz

    What Do You Use in Your Parts Cleaner?

    Same here. I tried the water based cleaner sold for parts tanks and while it may work on newer car oil and grease it didn't do much with 80 year old dirt, oil, and dried out grease. Would not touch the old gasoline varnish in carbs and fuel system parts. The lacquer thinner that is used to rinse parts about to be painted, and that used to clean the paint spray guns, gets recycled into the parts soaking tanks. I have extra tanks to let the sludge settle out and then pour off the reusable lacquer thinner. Then the sludge is dried and sent off to the dump.
  15. In 1929 ring compressors were not a common tool. The tapers on the ends of cylinder bores (sometimes lost due to over boring worn cylinders)was there for a reason. And like bread crumbs, it shows you the path they wanted you to follow. Paul