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  1. Ironic. A few minutes ago, I just got done putting new glass in a new, straight-up frame for a 31 conv. coupe. I've driven many cars from the 20's and early 30's with straight-up windshields and never experienced this problem of not being able to see clearly when driving into the sun, if the car had like-new glass in it that was clean. 1. Does it do the same at night with on-coming lights ? 2. Has the plastic film sandwiched in between the two glass layers started to discolor, or craze with age ? That can look clear when the sun is high, but as it breaks down it has tiny cracks that can scatter more direct light. 3. Look closely at the outside surface of the glass. Is it etched by years of road sand, and/or, lots of small stone chip "road stars" ? If any of the above, then new safety laminate glass should cure the problem. My main complaint for straight-up W/S glass - new or old - is rearward reflections - like seen in C. Carl's pix above. Nothing much can be done about that, except as mentioned if you have a swing-out w/s. Paul
  2. If you Google, "sleeve valve engines" there's quite a bit of info on them. One good example of how they work is this link to a You Tube video of a cut-away showing how the sleeves work in relation to piston position. And why there is no simple fix for wear, such as just putting in new valve guides and rings to stop oil burning with a valve-in-head type engine design. Paul
  3. Would that be Superweld in Farmingdale, L.I. ? I've used them for the long exhaust manifolds of Pierce straight 8's. They did excellent work. Paul
  4. The old bodyshop man who taught me auto painting told me that when he started in the business in the 40's it was common to "cut" the polishing compounds with gasoline to prevent over heating "comet swirl" when using power polishing wheels to rub out new paint. Remember, this was back when many workers had a cigarette hanging out of their mouth. Must have been an exciting work place !!! Paul
  5. One aspect of this topic is what value street rodding adds to original, or restored cars. During the restoration of his early 30's Pontiac convertible coupe, a friend found that most surviving examples had, or were in the process of being street rodded. The result of all that street rodding is that, now the friend has one of only a handful of that model restored to original, making it rare and much more valuable. While it's great having a rare car that is desirable and thus more valuable, it's a two-edged sword. Usually rare cars have rare parts. When parts are needed to complete a restoration, or maintain a driver car, it can be a big, expensive problem. In the friend's case some of those street rodders were selling off original parts cheaply to fund their project. One street rodder even offered him a complete drive train and all the suspension parts for an extremely low price. So, thanks to street rodders, the friend ended up with the best of both worlds - the street rodders made his restored car rare and thus more valuable, while providing a source of cheap spare parts to make the restoration less expensive than such a rare car could have been. Paul
  6. Yes. Paul
  7. The weight of the car changes the diameter as the tire rolls. That then changes the actual circumference of the tire per revolution. We can pick nits all night about what to call it, but my point is don't use the tire's standing, or unweighted diameter for calculating. Paul
  8. True. It can be called rolling circumference, too. But often tires are measured by their diameter. And because it's not as easy to measure the circumfreance, many owners measure the diameter and multiply that times 3.1415 to get circumference. That diameter changes because of the vehicle's weight on the tire as it rolls and that change in diameter changes the circumference. Paul
  9. Almost. Actually the oval lights were meant to throw a beam that was wider than it was tall. It was to help light up the sides of the road and curving roads - much like the Pilot Rays did, but the oval lights were fixed to the head light cross bar of bumper, not turning with the steering like Pilot Rays did. Here's a page from the 1931 Franklin accessory catalog, explaining how the "Oval-Lite" was intended to be used. It says, "The broad beam of the Franklin Oval-Lite, sweeping the curves before you turned, will completely light both sides of the road. On straight-away you can enjoy relaxation and yet drive in perfect safety. The beam spreads out 100 feet wide, with a distance of 75 feet ahead of your car. ......" Paul
  10. Tire diameter will get you close, but depending on tire brand, size, construction, and air pressure it can be off quite a bit in one mile. What is used for better accuracy is the tire's "rolling diameter". And it's easy to check on a flat surface. Use a tire on the axle that is connected to the speedometer drive. Make a mark on the tire exactly at the 6 o'clock position. You can find that position on the tire and the ground easily with a plumb-bob - hanging a weight from a string held in the center axis of the axle. Roll the car until the mark is back exactly at 6 o'clock. Then measure the distance from mark to mark on the ground. That is exactly the rolling diameter of one revolution of that brand and size/construction tire, at that air pressure. Paul
  11. Scott, you have a pm. Paul
  12. Typically, when the idle needle screw loses all affect on engine speed, there is a leak supplying excess fuel from somewhere. Running rough is another indication of that. If the float level is too high it can cause the same problems. Happens often when someone added an electric fuel pump without checking fuel pressure specs. If the electric pump has a higher output pressure than the original mechanical pump, or vacuum tank it raises the float level. Every increase in fuel pressure can raise a float level about 1/32 inch per pound of pressure increase. Some updraft carbs are very sensitive to float level changes at low idle speeds. Can also happen when a novice "rebuilds" updraft carbs with just a gasket kit thinking that's all that is needed. If there are submerged brass fuel valves, they need to be replaced with new, or have the valve seats lapped so that they seal as designed. Years of alcohol gas can erode the sealing surfaces of brass valves/jets leaving then unable to seal properly. Same happens to the brass seats for the check valves in fuel pumps. The surface erodes and looks "textured" like it was sand blasted. That rough surfaces does not allowing the check valves to seal well enough, thus lowering pump output pressure. Any submerged springs controlling those valves can be erodes, too, thus weakening and not allowing the valve/jet to seal sufficiently. Some early diecast (potmetal) carbs can develop cracks internally and "bleed" fuel through the thin walls separating fuel passageways, thus bypassing the jets/restrictions that control fuel flow. With age, potmetal can become porous, too. Most reputable carb rebuilders will not work on diecast carbs from the 20's and early 30's for that reason. Paul
  13. It doesn't have to be elaborate to check the low valve spring tensions of the 20's and 30's. And you don't need special equipment. Some factory specs give just the tension of the opening pressure of an installed valve and spring. That way any mechanic could test the springs right on the engine. Often it was as low as 35 lbs in the 20's and 50 lbs in the early 30's. As I said, some specs called for checking the tension with the valve and spring installed in the cylinder head, using a known weight, such as a steel cylinder. The cylinder was rested on top of the valve stem, or had a claw foot that straddled the stem and rocker arm tip and rested on the spring retainer. At that weight the valve should just start to open. You can do the same with a plastic container of water. Water has a known weight per volume and you can get surprisingly close to spec. Using that method to check and shimming the springs to spec, you can achieve less than 5% variation easily. Also, sometimes you'll find evidence of the original springs having ben shimmed at the factory to achieve proper and uniform tensions. Often the shims are stuck down in the counter bore and hidden by burned-on crud in the head. Unless the head is boiled clean or glass beaded, the shims just look like the machined seat for the springs down in the cylinder head. Shimming the valve springs to all the correct tensions is one of the ways that contributes to getting smooth, even running engine. Paul
  14. Valve spring tensions should be within the manufactures tension range. Even new springs are often not and need to be shimmed to meet spec. Unless the springs have lost so much tension that they would bind if shimmed to spec then there's no need to replace them. Just shim them to the proper tension. And don't assume that new springs will be within that manufactures tension range (they often are not), or you can have valve sealing problems. Sealed Power still sells valve springs shims in sizes to fit many old engine applications. Paul
  15. Had many small brass parts, such as carburetor lever arms and hood door figure pulls, cast by a company in northern PA that uses high-temp rubber molds mounted in centrifugal casting machines. Not an expansive type of mold to make and as long as the parts are not large the molds don't get over heated using brass. Because of that system of forcing the brass into the mold by centrifugal force, the shrinkage is less than the usual poured brass shrinkage of 1/8 inch to the foot. And the detail is every bit as crisp as lost wax process. Plus, because the molds are rubber they can cast parts that don't have a relief angle. They do a lot of highly detailed castings for model railroad hobbyists. I'll see if I can dig out their name/contact info. As for those Lyon barges,.... for any brass castings that small, the amount of total shrinkage will only be about .030 thousands inch across the diameter. A couple of coats of thin epoxy primer on the original will add enough thickness to compensate the mold for most of that shrinkage. Paul