PFitz

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  1. PFitz

    Advice on repairing paint chips

    Filling, leveling, and polishing, paint chips is easy. Matching the color is an art, unless that color mix is already in an auto paint company's color library. If you can get the car there, some autobody supply houses have the special camera and software to photo and match up to an existing color in their computer system. Even if not a perfect match, it's a good starting point to do some further mixing of that scan result to match, ..... that is, if your paint supplier is willing to do that and has someone with a good eye for mixing/matching a color. A few phone calls may find a shop with such a camera system. Paul
  2. PFitz

    Vacuum Question for Dort

    If it starts you have enough compression to pull air/fuel at the carb if the carb is not the problem. Anytime you need to run with the choke out means it's too lean. So, is it lean because it lacks enough fuel mixing in the right proportion with the air intake, or is it lean because it's leaking air into the intake system somewhere ? In the carburetor, a partially clogged idle fuel feed (very common), or an air leak, will make it too lean, thus needing to use the choke to pull additional fuel from the main fuel jet circuit during idle. If it's too lean during idle and at higher speeds when the main jet kicks in, then very likely the float level is too low can also cause poor fuel pull-over. Adding a fuel pump will not fix what is wrong. That's just treating a symptom, not curing the problem. And unless you seal or bypass the vac tank the electric pump will make it flood out through the vac tank vent. Plus, pressurizing the fuel line to the carb will change the float level if it is properly set for the low gravity feed pressure of a vac tank. It may then go from running too lean, to too rich. As said above, you should try hooking up a vacuum gauge to the intake system and do a compression test. Without those numbers it's just a guessing game. Paul
  3. PFitz

    1929 Chrysler - Oil Pressure

    As mentioned, worn bearings and pump will reduce oil psi. Oil pump gears and housing wear on their ends allowing oil to leak back past the gears and not be forced through to the bearings. One other thing that is often missed is the oil pressure relief valve spring will weaken with age, and/or, the valve and it's seat get cruddy. Either can cause an excess of bypassing oil and drop the pressure. Sometimes all you need is to remove the valve and spring, clean the valve and it's seat, then stretch the spring a bit to lengthen it back more toward original tension. Paul
  4. PFitz

    Rear brake drum seal surface tapered

    Not something I've had to worry about. In nearly 37 years of working on 1920's to 1930's antiques full time, I've never had a tapered seal surface so bad that the leather, or felt seal couldn't be made to reseal it properly. Maybe just luck, but I think it's more a case of a grease and oil sealing design that is more forgiving of a worn surface and the dusty road conditions these cars were original designed to withstand. Too often we tend to underestimate the simple solutions early engineers came up with and think that modern solutions are better in such instances. A goodly percentage of my work load is fixing the repairs "inflicted" on these old cars by people who thought they knew better ways to do something than the engineers that built them. Plus, there are instances were installing modern seals will actually cause leaks. Example, replacing the original leather or felt seals in some rear axles. These seals "breath" because they are also filtered vents. They allow air to move in and out as the axle changes temperature, yet they filter out the dust. When replacing the wheel bearing and pinion seals with lip seals, as the rear axle heats up during driving the air inside the axle expands and pushes oil past the lip edges. When it cools, it can start to suck dust at the lip edge in under the edge which will shorten the usable life of the lip seal and the seal's contact surface. So now that rear axle also needs a non-original vent installed. And, if your doing a show car,....... The surface in 1937P4's picture is normal wear for the 80-90 years of driving of the cars I work on. While it might need machining to get a surface smooth enough for a lip seal, I know from experience that I can easily get it to reseal properly by just cleaning and shimming the original leather or felt back to a snug fit. If someone wants to pay a machine shop to change that design, that's certainly their right, but I don't see it as necessary in an instance like this. By the time that drum is delivered to a machine shop, with just a small can of lacquer thinner and a sheet of computer printer paper and scissors, I can clean and shim the original seal back to working well as it did originally. It will outlast a modern lip seal, save my customers money, and keep the car that much more original. For those that wish to keep their car original as possible while saving some money, they are not always stuck with having to modernize it to get it to seal. These tapered seal designs can often be repaired and it's a low-tech repair that doesn't require expensive equipment. Paul
  5. PFitz

    Rear brake drum seal surface tapered

    No, I don't. They don't make them simply because the tapered surfaces were not meant to use a modern lip seal. However where a modern lip seal was used in later manufacture, the seal manufacturers offer a wide range of sleeve sizes to press onto the contact surface to cover the groove worn by the previous lip seal's contact edges when replacing it. You can order them through a bearing and seal supplier. Here ya go,... http://www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/index.html https://www.timken.com/products/timken-mechanical-power-transmission-products/seals/redi-sleeves/ With a leather or felt seal, grit imbeds into the fibers and does not get rubbed between it and the contact surface with force the way the firmer surface of a lip seal will. Much like the far softer surface of babbitt bearings helps protect and extend the service life of crankshaft journals from the grinding action of wear particles. Read the second paragraph of the SKF link to understand what happens with road, and/or, brake dust and a lip seal. Some wheels don't need to be reinvented when their proper function is understood. Paul
  6. Thank you Keiser - yes, just bevel the ends, not all "edges". Had just finished another post about oil/grease seals and must had the word "edges" still on my mind. Paul
  7. Looks like the edges of the linings were not beveled. If so, that can cause "grabbing" with self-energizing (single anchor) brake systems. You can bevel them on the car with a wood rasp file. Paul
  8. PFitz

    Rear brake drum seal surface tapered

    There rarely is any need to put in a modern lip seal with a tapered rubbing surface. Yes, figuring out where on the taper it contacts so you can get a lip seal the right size is tough. And modern lip seals won't last as long as the original leather or felt seals do. The originals have afar greater contact width so the force per square area is less. Plus, felt and leather hold oil to better self lubricate and they work better at excluding dust in the contact area so they wear the contact surface far less over the same miles traveled than a modern lip seal will. But, when dust gets in under the edges of a lip seal by mixing with the oil there, it becomes a grinding paste. Within a few thousand miles it will not only wear the very thin contact edge of a lip seal, it will also grind a groove in the contact surface. That's why they also sell press-on repair sleeves for standard sized lip seal contact areas. As I mentioned above, you can remove the leather or felt seal from it's sheet metal retainer, wash it in solvent such as lacquer thinner, and then place strips of paper down inside the retainers to shim the leather/felt back to an original snug fit. Then it's good for another lifetime or two. Paul
  9. PFitz

    Rear brake drum seal surface tapered

    I've seen tapered hubs and front spindles like that, that were originally set up to use leather, or felt oil/grease seals. The seals will adjust to fit snuggly. As the tapered bearings wear and adjustments are made for the wear, the seals sit further onto the tapper and also adjust for wear. Plus, when new bearings are installed, those old leather/felt seals can be removed from their retainers, cleaned in solvent, and then shimmed back to an original snug fit by shimming with strips of paper down in the retainers. Paul
  10. PFitz

    Who makes Vintage Bakelite Shift Knobs

    How about in black ? http://www.tractorpartsinc.com/ford_tractor_shifter_boots_knobs_1049_ctg.htm Many farm tractor supply places sell them. Before they were bought out by NAPA, my farming area autoparts store sold new ones that were the duplicate of the ones often found in cars from the late '20s and early '30s - including the same bass insert thread size. Paul
  11. PFitz

    poured bearings

    Owner Mike Reeve. His son Patrick is most likely to answer the shop phone during working hours. He's also a good one to ask because he's extremely experienced and knowledgeable about all phases of rebuilding antique engines, too. Paul
  12. PFitz

    poured bearings

    I guess that shop hasn't heard that old shade-tree mechanic's rumor about don't use detergent oils in old engines was debunked about 40 years ago ? So how does your shop account for the millions of trouble-free miles using detergent oils with poured babbitt that has happened in those decades since ? Try calling Reeve Enterprises in Cazenovia NY 315-655-8812. The shop owner is not just a life long engine rebuilder, he's a recently retired professor of Machine Technology at SUNY Morrisville. It's three generations with a total of at least 80 years experience and lots of college degrees between them. They do all the machining, balancing, and poured babbitt - including into aluminum rods as original, .... that some shops say can't be done - all in house. The bulk of their work is antique auto, but they also stationary, commercial, race, and marine. Everything but aircraft. Paul
  13. PFitz

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    Not quite. While carbs and vacuum tanks both have floats, they control fuel flow very differently. Unlike the carb float needle, which it's flow rate is subject to counter acting fuel force against the force being exerted on it by the pressure of the float (which changes pressure on the needle as the fuel level changes ) in a vacuum tank the inlet and vent valves are controlled only by spring tension of the rocker mechanism. They alternate between being fully on, or fully off, and do not allow progressive flow like a carb's float needle can. So, the fuel level ranges are quite different - one controlled by engine fuel demand, the other by spring tension. The fuel level in the upper tank of a vacuum tank has the same range of up/down travel no matter what the engine fuel demands are. It's only the time it takes to refill that changes with changes in engine vacuum levels. The float has to drop, or rise to the same point to flip the rocker mechanism to close one valve and open the other. So, no matter how the vacuum force changes, the fuel level in the upper tank of the vacuum goes up, or down only when the float reaches those points that cause the rocker mechanism to switch the inlet and vent valves to their other extreme of travel. You can see how much the upper tank fuel level changes when the top is off the tank by raising and lowering the float by hand to work the rocker mechanism to open/close the two valves. The mechanical driven vacuum pumps were an improvement (especially for a driver with a heavy right foot ) by not being dependent on lighter engine loads to have stronger vacuum to maintain good fuel flow. As long as there was sufficient rpm, it didn't matter if it was on a hill or level ground. For majority of cars with a properly functioning vacuum tank they do fine on hills, if you don't push the motor so hard that the vacuum readings are near zero. I've driven lots of my customer's vacuum tank equipped cars on our long central NY hills and never had a fuel starvation problem. But then, I was taught to never lug a motor uphill. Paul
  14. PFitz

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    Running out of fuel on a long hill with a properly functioning vac tank is usually because the driver is lugging/working the motor too hard and getting the intake vacuum down near zero. At typical vacuum of 15 inches cruising on a level road, the vac tank is making 7.3 PSI in the line from the gas tank. That's a lot. Even at pushing it to 4-5 inches of vacuum on a hill - the point at which some carb fuel enrichment (economizer/power valve circuits) kicks in - the vac tank is still making about 2 psi fuel pressure in the line from the gas tank. That's within the normal 2-4 psi operating range of many early mechanical fuel pumps that started replacing the vac tank systems in the late 1920s. At the carb, the more constant force of gravity is causing about 3/4 psi and plenty of volume, so when the engine load gets so great as to cause a too-big drop in vacuum, the only problem is having enough vacuum to draw fuel from the gas tank to the vac tank. Pushing the throttle down so far that the vacuum is too low to pull fuel from the gas tank is not only bad for fuel delivery, it's over working the motor. Better to downshift, get the vacuum higher to be able to pull fuel, plus, take some load off the motor by gaining mechanical advantage with the transmission in a lower gear, plus, it will also increase the RPMs, thus increasing fan and water pump speeds to give better cooling of the motor. Vacuum gauges are not only helpful for diagnostics, they help you see how hard your working the motor. So, if you want to see how much your working the motor when you drive, tee a vacuum gauge into the line from the intake manifold to the vac tank. A vacuum gauge works like a poor man's "load meter". The lower the readings while your driving shows that the motor is working harder. By learning to drive keeping the readings as high as possible, you'll get the best gas mileage and longer engine life. Paul
  15. PFitz

    Wiring Question

    One other possibility is that two position, three terminal switch was meant for use where a separate starter button was used - like some boat engines are set up for. That would use the "str" terminal wired to the push button, then from the push button on to a starter relay. A gas gauge does not use much current and won't cause much noticeable voltage drop that could affect coil voltage. Doesn't matter is it's connected at the switch or the hot side of the coil, the drain on the system is the same. Rhode Island Wire uses 14 gauge, as was originally used on many 6 volt systems. You can use 16 ga for 12 volt systems. Paul