PFitz

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  1. What Do You Use in Your Parts Cleaner?

    Same here. I tried the water based cleaner sold for parts tanks and while it may work on newer car oil and grease it didn't do much with 80 year old dirt, oil, and dried out grease. Would not touch the old gasoline varnish in carbs and fuel system parts. The lacquer thinner that is used to rinse parts about to be painted, and that used to clean the paint spray guns, gets recycled into the parts soaking tanks. I have extra tanks to let the sludge settle out and then pour off the reusable lacquer thinner. Then the sludge is dried and sent off to the dump.
  2. In 1929 ring compressors were not a common tool. The tapers on the ends of cylinder bores (sometimes lost due to over boring worn cylinders)was there for a reason. And like bread crumbs, it shows you the path they wanted you to follow. Paul
  3. Sealing NPT in oil pan

    I don't recommend using the Teflon tape on engine and fuel system fittings. All too often, I've found little shreds of it (and silicon sealers) stuck in carb jets, and fuel and oil pump screens of my customer's engines. The tape gets cut into thin strips by the edges of the pipe threads. When you unthread the fitting and then reinsert it, the strips can windup in places they shouldn't. As long as you don't gob it on, what little amount of the paste that might get pushed in by reinserting the plug will not hurt the motor, or the fuel system. Anyone remember the slogan from the old Vitalis hair tonic ads ? Paul
  4. Sealing NPT in oil pan

    Hardware store bottle of Teflon "plumber's paste" wiped into the threads by finger tip - end of leaks - both oil and fuel ! Has worked for me decades, even with messed up threads. Paul
  5. 1930 Chrysler Wheel Cylinders

    If you look it up on Permatex's website you'll see that they only recommended the Ultra for disc brake caliper pins and slides (external use). Does not say it can be used for cylinder pistons and bores (internal use). So, I can't say it's the same as brake assembly lube, which is meant to be used inside the cylinders because it is compatible with brake fluid. But that doesn't necessarily rule out the Ultra, either. A call to the Permatex tech line might get you more info on if it can and can't be used inside the cylinders ??? I've only used the EIS brand. So I can't speak to the performance of other brands, except they come up when searching for brake assembly lube. BTW, Centric is another brand that comes up. Notice I purposely used the word "brake" because brake assembly lube is not the same as engine assembly lube, which should NEVER be used in brake systems. Paul
  6. Sleeving wheel cylinder

    Yes, if the seals become worn. Or scored by abrasive that was left in the pistons if they were cleaned with sand paper or emery cloth. Or, if the bores are not coated with assembly lube and they become corrosion pitted, then as the brake lining wears and the piston and cup move toward the end of the bores to take up wear, the cup lip could move to pitted areas of the bore and then leak. When brake fluid leaks past the cup lip, if enough leaks past it will bulge the rubber dust boots. If it becomes alot of fluid trapped in the boot end of the cylinders it can pop the edge of the dust boots off the cylinder and you'll have brake fluid running down onto the drum and linings. Paul
  7. 1930 Chrysler Wheel Cylinders

    Your solution is as easy as picking up some "brake assembly lube" at an autoparts store, or ordered online (don't use "brake rubber parts lube", or "brake grease" inside the pistons). Either EIS, Permatex, or Bendix brand. Clean the cylinder bores and the pistons. NEVER use an abrasive on the pistons. The grit will imbed in the aluminum and score the polished bore of the sleeves. Use steel wool to clean off all aluminum oxide corrosion. Completely coat the bores and pistons with the assembly lube and put them back together. Also clean and coat even NOS, and new cylinders that are not sleeved to prevent them from corroding. Paul
  8. Sleeving wheel cylinder

    The rubber grease is just for preserving the rubber parts of a brake system, but does not prevent the aluminum corrosion that brake assembly lubes do prevent. If you want to use just one, then use the assembly lube for pistons, bores, and the rubber parts. EIS, Permatex, and Bendix each make a brake assembly lube that at least one of those brands you can get at most autoparts stores, or online suppliers. Paul
  9. Sleeving wheel cylinder

    Did you use brake assembly lube ? I've always had Apple sleeve with brass. However, the same stuck pistons can happen with brass sleeved cylinders. It just takes longer. And to an even slower extent, the aluminum can corrode and stick to the cast iron bores of new wheel cylinders. The way to prevent that is first coating the clean bores and pistons with brake assembly lube. I use EIS brand. Whatever is in it prevents corrosion of the aluminum pistons. Since I learned of that many years ago, not one has seized since. BTW, brake assembly lube is not the same lube designed for the rubber parts, which won't prevent piston corrosion. However, brake assembly lube can be used on the rubber parts without harm. And yes, you should first use assembly lube even with DOT 5. Paul
  10. Carburetor tip

    I'm pretty sure everyone means the same part - what many call the "float needle and seat" - just different names for it. Key word in all this being the word, "inlet". Paul
  11. Anyone else Remember these things?

    What became an other common accessory in the 70's, but not as noticeable, was locking gas caps. Thanks to the panics created by long lines waiting to get gas. Good thing those around the block gas lines aren't happening with any of today's road-rage prone drivers. Paul
  12. Breaking in an engine

    Thanks, Carl. This explains it better than I could. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/racing/break-in-oil-(sae-30)/ Anyone wanting to know more about what happens during break in, scroll down to read it all. Paul
  13. Breaking in an engine

    You have to think microscopically what the newly machined and ground surfaces are really like - sharp mountains and valleys. The reason for varying the speed and load is to wear in the cast iron rings and bore without glazing them with microscopic wear particles jammed into the microscopic valleys. Those sharp mountain peaks cause drag, so they give less friction when they wear smoother. But you need some of those tiny valleys kept clear to act as reservoirs to retain some oil. If they become clogged the surface won't lubricate the same. When you accelerate, the cylinder pressure increases. That pressure gets behind the rings thus pushing the rings outward against the bore. That's why rings have a top and bottom and beveled inner edges - to allow the high pressure gas to slip between the piston and ring. When you lift your foot to slow down, the vacuum in the cylinder goes up and that high outward pressure on the rings goes down, thus helping to pull some fresh oil up past the ring faces to flush the wear particles into the oil pan. If you've ever looked at drain oil after the first couple of hours of running-in new cast iron rings and a freshly honed bores, it shimmers with the iron particles. And there is so much fine particles suspended in the oil that you can write your name in the oil by holding a magnet just above the oil surface. Sometimes it freaks out the customer the first time they see all that floating in relatively new oil.
  14. Wooden wheels

    That place in Canada may have been my mention. Recently, in another thread about wood wheels, I had listed a shop in Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada called, "Wheels Of Wood". A few days ago, I found out that John, the owner/operator, had passed away and the shop is no longer in business. Paul
  15. High Oil Pressure on Graham Paige

    First, before you question what you've done with the engine and go tearing back into it, how sure are you the gauge is accurate ? You be shocked at how far off many (even new) pressure gauges can be when checked against lab-grade gauges. Was that 90 psi with a cold engine at start up, or 90 after a good 20 minutes of running at fast idle to heat the oil, as some manufactures specify ? What's Graham's specs for that 40 psi ? Does it say under what conditions and with what oil it should read 40 ? Paul