PFitz

Members
  • Content count

    174
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

38 Excellent

About PFitz

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

648 profile views
  1. Babbitt Engine Rebuilder in Pennsylvania Area

    Reeves orders Ross pistons for me. Both the Aries and the Ross are very strong and well made, but the Aries are much more expensive. Paul
  2. What's your thought ?

    It's been close to 20 years now that reputable fuel pump rebuilders have switched over to alcohol tolerant diaphragm material. Quite often these days, a pump not delivering fuel is not a problem with the fuel pump diaphragm. Some brands of gasoline have additives that can make the fuel pump's check valves stick shut when the gas dries out. And, the low pressure of the fuel pump is not enough to pop them loose. Try pulling a little bit of fuel through the pump with one of the brake bleeding vacuum kits. Make sure the gasoline only goes into the kit's catch-can, not the hand vacuum pump. Same gasoline can stick the float needles shut. The "intravenous" gas can idea should tell you if gas is getting through to the carb. Paul
  3. Old car enthusiast touring Eastern US.

    That would be the Northeast Classic Car Museum. Over 170 vehicles, of which most are prewar. Plus displays of WWI & WWII engines. http://www.classiccarmuseum.org/about-us/ Paul
  4. Zenith carburetor adjustment

    Looking through the marine carb listings at Jon's website, that Zenith 10870 is listed for Gray Marine A100 engines 1947 - 51. It's listing starting almost 3/4 of the way down this page. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/MarinekitsG.htm No listing there at Jon's of the 11583. But, another website listing of Zenith 11583 said it's Chrysler 1953-55. If it is, being an updraft that late it's possibly a marine cabin cruiser engine to give more engine hatch clearance ???? Paul
  5. Zenith carburetor adjustment

    Running with the main jet closed is a classic example that another circuit in the carb is leaking fuel into the main discharge jet, or there is an internal crack between fuel circuits. Similar situation with when the idle air screw has no affect on idle - there's a leak somewhere. Updrafts have submerged jets that some of which are often spring-loaded valves. When they age they tend to leak, thus becoming another main jet. Plus, most often those spring-loaded jets are brass. Alcohol in the gas contributes to surface erosion making them leak even if they are cleaned. All-too-often, people who are not familiar with how updraft carb function will throw a "gasket kit" into the carb and think that will take care of it all. And just to be clear, I never proposed running the main jet "too rich". I'm all for getting the proper size, and type, carb for that size engine. I said compromising with the main jet to make up for a lack of a proper power enrichment circuit is what others have been doing in the past. Many who's late 1920's car had a potmetal carb that was falling apart, and they bought a cast iron marine/stationary carb at a swap meet thinking that would solve their crumbling potmetal carb problem. $3500.00 ? What's it cost to rebuild your engine ? Because using the wrong carb can eventually cost you an engine rebuild. Paul
  6. Zenith carburetor adjustment

    If that is your carb, check the power jet circuit. If it's clogged, or the vacuum piston isn't sealing enough, or the spring is weak enough so that circuit will not respond well enough, that would make it run lean on hills. A way to check is drive up that hill it pinged on again. As the engine starts to ping, slowly pull the hand choke out. At some point with part choke, if the pining stops and the engine seems to gain a bit more power then it was running too lean and you need to find out why the power enrichment circuit isn't compensating. Don't pull the choke out too quickly, or too far, because that will cause the reverse condition - the engine to be over choked and go too rich. Paul
  7. Spark knock in a 32 Packard ??

    Yes, carbon can cause a hot spot - much like a glow plug - one of the things I mentioned early on. Especially if the carb runs rich on level roads and then goes lean on hills. BTW, if you do have a marine carb, there likely is no power enrichment circuit like a car needs. The lack of such a circuit will make it lean out on hills. This was a problem with the marine/stationary engine carbs that were showing up as replacements for the potmetal carbs of the late 1920's. They run ok at idle and on level roads, but with no way to properly enrich the mixture proportional to engine load, such as hill climbing, they go too lean. So, typically, the owner's opened up the main jet to "compromise" for hills and then the carb is running too rich when not under load. Sound familiar ? There's a bunch of 28-29 Franklins running around with newer marine/stationary engine Zeniths that were sold as replacements,.... except for one 28 from northern NYS. I'm working on getting more of the automobile version available for them. Paul
  8. Connecting rod cap bolts.

    From the Franklin factory drawing for connecting rod bolts for 1922 to 1927. .375-.373 diameter, 3/8 - 24 thread. Material is N.S. 21 steel. Starting in 1928 they added the following note to the drawings. "Note:-To be made from cold drawn N.S.21 steel showing the following physical properties: Yield point 90,000 lbs. per sq inch minimum. Reduction of area 50% minimum. Elongation in 2" - 20% minimum. Brinell hardness 196 - 230. " Starting in 1929 they changed "N.S.21" to "S.A.E. 2330" on all drawings, but kept the same physical properties requirements, so I assume SAE 2330 is the new number for NS21 as they were switching over to SAE standards. And it seems that, going by later drawings, they kept that requirement until end of production in 1934, only adding a larger diameter shoulder to the length of bolt that is in the rod half of the journal. The bolt length in the cap half was still 3/8 inch diameter, still with a 3/8 - 24 thread. Paul
  9. Spark knock in a 32 Packard ??

    Ok, that helps to know when/how it's pining. Pining at 50 mph, while going up an incline, with rear gears that tall, is very unlikely due to too much centrifugal advance,..... unless this distributor has a vacuum advance that's stuck full on ? Paul
  10. Spark knock in a 32 Packard ??

    Not knowing what engine that distributor was meant for, if the centrifugal advance weight springs are the wrong tension for that engine, or they are weak, the advance curve might be coming in to full advance at too low an rpm and that will sometimes cause pinging. Retarding the initial timing to correct that can make the engine sluggish. Try stiffer advance weight springs and see if that helps get rid of the ping. If so, then you can go back to original initial advance to gain some low rpm power. BTW, there's more to matching up a carb than having linkage match up and having an adjustable main jet. If the venturi and other internal jets/restrictions are too big the engine will be lethargic. If all that is too small, the engine will be peppy at low rpm, but run out of top rpms. You want a carb from an engine that is very close to the same CID as what your putting it on, or you'll be forever chasing your tail trying to get the engine to run right. Paul
  11. Be advised, the 6 volt come in two different pressure outputs. The Airtex E8011 is rated 5-8 psi. The E8902 is rated 2.5 to 4.5, which is a closer match to the output of many early mechanical fuel pumps. I have a customer who someone put a higher pressure pump in the car and it once jammed the float needle. He doesn't dare use it full time, only for priming. Whereas the original mechanical AC pump on his car is rated at 2-4 psi output, with the E8902 he could run it full time and not have to worry about over-stressing the float & needle. Plus, anytime you change the fuel pressure, you also change the float level in the carburetor. For a backup pump, you want the electric pump's pressure to be close to that of the mechanical pump's pressure so that it doesn't change the float level a lot when you have to switch on the electric pump. Paul
  12. Cables for antique Graham Paige?

    "Tension" is an old term for "voltage". The "Low tension" system is the 6 volt wires to the ignition switch, the coil, and to the side terminal of the distributor head for the points and condenser. The "High tension" system is the high voltage wires from the coil to the middle of the distributor cap, and from the cap to the spark plugs. Don't use modern spark suppressive wires with a 6 volt system. In a short time the carbon impregnated fiberglass core gets burned out causing even higher resistance until no spark voltage gets through. Use "solid core" spark plug wire like Rhode Island supplies. It's made with modern insulation over stranded copper wire, then cloth braided and clear lacquered to look just like what would have been on your car originally. And RI Wire has the correct type terminal ends. Solder them onto the spark wire if possible. One other thing many misunderstand is that for a 6 volt system you should use size "0" battery cables, because 6 volt starters need more amperage to do the same work (watts) as a 12 volt system with it higher voltage - lower amperage equaling the same wattage. Paul
  13. Cables for antique Graham Paige?

    For all my 20's and early 30's restoration's wiring needs, Rhode Island Wiring Service. http://www.riwire.com/ They carry the braided, lacquered spark plug wire in black and various color codes depending on what the original was. They even have new wiring harnesses for the 29, GP model 612 and 621. Paul
  14. Looking In All The Wrong Places

    You'd be amazed at how fast (and how little "elbow grease" is needed) using a roll of paper towels and a can of fast lacquer thinner can quickly turn "brown walls" into white walls. Good idea to wear Nitrile gloves to protect your hands. Paul
  15. British Retractable "Coo-pay"

    There's a quote supposedly attributed to custom coach designer Ray Dietrich, " It's called a coupé,..... coops are for chickens". https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coupé Paul