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About PFitz

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  1. Turn signal retrofit.

    Jim, For your Series 151, Rhode Island Wire sets up the head light harness to tie in with the turn signal switch so that it uses the parking light bulb in the top of the head light reflector. RIW provides the turn signal unit and it's loomed harness, plus the flasher unit socket, as part of the option. You have a choice of a black, or chrome plated body switch. For a Series 153, it uses the cowl lights as the front turn signals. Most autoparts stores have, or can order, the 6 volt flasher unit to plug into the socket provided. Then the tail light harness is set up to use the brake light also as a turn signal light. Plus they add a branch harness to a right tail light. If you can find an original Franklin tail light and right-hand stanchion (good luck), it works with that, or use a trailer two bulb tail light. When you step on the brakes the turn signal unit interrupts the brake light on that side and makes it flash. The other brake light functions normally during turn signal use. Looking under the car, all the harnesses and wires look factory. Paul
  2. Turn signal retrofit.

    FYI, Rhode Island Wire can incorporate the turn signal wires right into the new, correctly color-coded harnesses that they make. They use the existing parking and tail lights of older vehicles that never had turn signals - including 6 volt systems. The steering column mounted turn signal unit is a modern TRW that looks like the old style, but it also has a four-way emergency flasher switch built in. Comes with all that's needed, plus instructions for what wire terminals go where. I've installed their harnesses with the turn signal option in many of my customer's cars. Paul
  3. Close as a twin, but not your original, Walt. Yes, it's paint, but it's Bulls Eye one-shot sign paint that I put on it those many years ago. You forgot that right after your original was stripped clean of the remnants of glass, we made a plaster cast of it. Then I cast the one in my picture to put on my Austin. The plaster also copied the dents in yours. That enamel sign paint has held up very well for over 35 years. Glad to see you still have your BARC badge after all you went through to find and restore it ! Paul
  4. Stromberg series SF and SFM updraft carburetors

    The down side to that is, it's easy to flood the motor with raw fuel when starting if you pump the pedal too much on a downdraft. Many updrafts have a drain hole - like Jon mentioned - in the base of the carb right below the venturi and the main discharge jet. It's less likely to flood the motor with raw fuel. Paul
  5. Hummmm. that looks familiar. Even the same dents and one sorta droopy wing. Paul
  6. Wooden Spokes Creaking

    And if your in Canada and you don't want to get beat 'round the head by the USA/Canadian money exchange rate,.... John Kurtarna Wheels of Wood 3235 Hill Ave. Regina, Saskatchewan S4S OW5 Canada 306-586-8658
  7. 6 Volt Booster Starter Necessary?

    Yea, it's alive !!! A bit of fine tuning, some break-in, and it will be purring. Paul
  8. preferred hand cleaner

    I used Go-Jo for many years, but never cared for the way it left my hands feeling slimy. Had to make sure to wash the Go-Jo off if I was going to be handing parts in primer. When the citrus based cleaners came out I switched to using Fast Orange with pumice. Available at Walmart. And it seems to be the same product in the same containers at NAPA but with a NAPA label on it. The smooth version (no pumice) is very good at pretreating oil stains on work clothing before they go in the washing machine. Paul
  9. 6 Volt Booster Starter Necessary?

    Looking forward to seeing it !!! Have a wonderful Thanks Giving. Paul
  10. Why One Noisy Valve?

    Getting a quiet valve train when rebuilding a worn engine involves much more than just replacing valves. As you know, the valve is not the only part of the valve train that can make noise that gets transmitted to where the valve is exposed. So, because the noise is heard at the valve it's assumed the valve is the problem. Some of the things that can cause valve noise. 1. Rocker arms and adjusters that have uneven wear and need to be re-ground. 2. Wrong rocker arm geometry. 3. Worn or rebuilt rocker arm shafts and bushings that are not square to direction of movement. 4. Valve guides that are worn, or not cleaned of carbon/burned oil. 5. Guides that are hour-glassed too tight from improper press fit size, or wrong type of guide material. 6. Uneven tappet, pushrod wear that was not re-ground square at the time of the rebuild. 7. Pushrods not perfectly straight. 8. Worn pushrod guides. 9. Wrong valve spring tension. 10. Valve springs that don't sit straight. It's a long list that can cause "valve noise". And very often it's not even the valve that's the cause of the noise. Paul
  11. 6 Volt Booster Starter Necessary?

    Ya know that all this advice isn't free...... you owe us pictures when you get it running ! Paul
  12. Best Oil & Lubricants for 1920's Cars

    This topic of oil getting too hot used to come up , so I decided to run some oil temp tests a few years ago. I ordered several oil temperature gauges with mechanical sending units and persuaded a couple of my customers to let me install them in their cars. First was a 1931 Franklin sedan. Franklins being air cooled it was always speculated that they must be running hot. The oil temps stayed in the low 100's. Next up was a 32 Franklin sedan. The 32's have a reputation of running hotter. I drove that one myself for 150 miles over hills and highways in western Massachusetts and eastern NY. Going up a very long hill east of Albany I was able to get the oil up to 150 F. Most of the trip it was in the 110F to 120F range. Then for comparison, I installed the same gauge and sender unit in my 98 Windstar. It stayed a very consistent 210F. So much for old cars run hot !!! I then called Quaker State and talked with one of their engineers. After I told him the results of these test, he said that what we were more at risk of running too cold to activate some of the additives in modern oil. Take it for what it's worth. BTW, check out why with so many commercial engines, it's standard practice to never change the engine oil. They just periodically send out oil samples to a test lab (you can too) and put in additives that the tests show are needing to be replenished. They only change filters. If oil really breaks down so easily you can bet they wouldn't risk such VERY expensive engines on such a practice as that. Paul
  13. 6 Volt Booster Starter Necessary?

    If you can match the drawing, then it will look like the drawing, but in a sense, it doesn't have to because you have a choice of 6 positions, unless there's something on the distributor like a tackometer drive or Electro-lock that it has to point the same way each time. Yeah, I know it sounds crazy, but as I said, all you need is to have the rotor send a spark to the number one plug when that cylinder is on TDC of compression stroke (both valves closed). What's important that that drawing does tell you is the rotor rotation (clockwise) and the firing order ( 1,5,3, 6 2,4 ). Knowing those two things, you can put the wires in the cap in the correct order no matter which of the six possible positions the distributor can be installed in when the rotor is pointed at a cap contact as the points are opening. So, as Graham Man is pointing out, you need to get the distributer drive gear to mesh exactly in one of those six positions (and not in between). Then see which one the rotor points to in the cap and that becomes the number one cylinder. Confused even more, now ? OK, lets say your looking down on the distributor (bird's eye view), the cap is off, and the rotor is pointing to your 12:00 position. And lets say that you've determined that the number one cylinder is on TDC and both it's valves are closed, and the points have just opened. Then just put the number one cylinder spark plug wire into the distributer cap's wire tower that will align with that 12:00 position when the cap is placed on the distributor. Then moving clockwise in the direction of rotor rotation, put the number 5 wire in the next cap wire tower, then the number 3, etc.. If the rotor is pointed in between cap contacts when the points open, as Graham Man is saying, you need to lift it up enough to un-mesh the drive gear then without turning the distributor housing turn the rotor and drive gear slightly so that it drops back down and around to align with the cap contact. Not uncommon that it takes a few tries to get the teeth in the right mesh so that the points open as the rotor just comes into alignment with a cap contact. Paul
  14. 6 Volt Booster Starter Necessary?

    You can work backwards to check if the flywheel is correctly positioned. What only matters for ignition timing is the distributor's relationship to the pistons & valves. If the cam timing is correct then you need to check if the distributor, and/or, firing order of the spark plug wires are correct. After that see if the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire when the number one cylinder is on TDC. Then you can check to see if the flywheel marks are where they should be. If you can see the movement of the number one cylinder intake valve, watch it as the engine is turned over by hand. Might be easier with the plugs out. Or put your finger over the number one cylinder spark plug hole and feel for the pressure build up of the compression stroke. As soon as it stops making pressure, stop turning the crank and see if the rotor is pointing to number one plug wire. On any four stroke engine, half a turn of the crankshaft after the intake closes is TDC at the end of the compression stroke. The distributor rotor should be pointing at the number one cylinder spark plug wire's contact inside the distributor cap and the points are just opening and thus causing a spark. That should be close enough timing to get it running. Then you can fine tune it from there after it's running and warmed up. If your certain the flywheel is in the wrong position, and you don't want to remove it, you can make new timing marks if you can get access to the piston through the spark plug hole. The way to establish true TDC on number one cylinder is to use a piston stop. Some are a metal bar, bolted across the block, with a bolt that extends down to touch the top of the piston. Some can be used with the head on by using an old spark plug with the insulator knocked out and a large bolt threaded in it's place. Basically you want a way of stopping the piston most of the way up it's travel, but before it reaches the top. The stop is inserted. Then very carefully by hand you turn the crank shaft until the piston top meets the stop. Don't turn the crank fast or with a lot of force or it'll put stress on the connecting rod when it meets the stop. When the piston is up against the stop, make a timing mark with a Sharpie pen on masking tape on the flywheel. Then rotate the crankshaft backwards until the piston meets the stop again. Make another mark. Exactly half way between those two marks is the true TDC of that cylinder. Now you can mark that TDC permanently. Then you can measure off the timing advance mark if you know the number of degrees advance, then divide the diameter of the flywheel by 360 degrees and make another mark at the distance in the flywheel that gives you that advance. Then you can use a timing light whenever you need to check advance. Paul
  15. Best Oil & Lubricants for 1920's Cars

    The myth about detergent oils damaging old engines was debunked by oil industry tests long ago. The real question is why this myth keeps popping up everytime the subject of engine oils comes up. Anyone who thinks they are being authentic to old engine design by using non detergent oils can have an authentic sludge build up that is the real culprit for damaging engines. Synthetics are good. But don't get fooled into thinking they can be left in an antique engine longer, - the same way synthetics can extend modern engine oil change intervals. I agree with Matt that it's better to use conventional motor oil and change it more often, than it is to try to save some money by running expensive synthetic longer before changing it. That's just kicking the cost-can down the road to having to do an engine rebuild that much sooner. Paul