PFitz

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  1. With all the silly, bone-headed stuff I've seen done to, and with, cars in my 50+ years association with automobiles, it would not surprise me to find out that has happened to others. I've never seen it in print, but I've heard that engine problems associated with misuse of the choke was one of the reasons behind why manufactures went to automatic chokes. Just glad my ex never had a manual choke car. Paul
  2. I'll second that. I've used Reeve's shop for 20 years. Patrick and Mike have decades of experience and all the equipment to completely rebuild any engine - gas or diesel, antique or new, street, race, stationary, or marine. Everything but aircraft.
  3. My favorite, but happened to an older friend when he worked as a L.I. dealership mechanic in the late 50's. Dealership owner's wife got a new car. Drove it a ways and the engine stalled and wouldn't restart. Called the dealership and they sent out a mechanic. By the time he got there, he couldn't find anything wrong and the car started fine. This happened several times. Finally the dealership owner told the service manager that his wife was making his life miserable - find out what's wrong with that car or look for a new job. The service manager went to the dealer's house and asked the wife to drive the car while he road shotgun. She got in behind the wheel, pulled out the choke handle all the way and hung her handbag on it. Problem solved. Paul
  4. I forgot about the carb icing story. When I first started reading this I thought it was going to be about the time I found you stuck on an LI expressway overpass, once again on the way to a car show. If you remember, that time it was motor oil spray flooded the wire towers of the distributor cap, thus insulating the sparkplug wire terminals. Couple of paper towels wicked out the oil and cured it at the time. Then the later addition of Franklin's cure of a tower base distributor cured it permanently. Paul
  5. In early spring of 1972 I ordered a new AMC Javelin. About 6 weeks later, I was on my way to work and as I drove past the dealership I saw a car transporter on the side street with my car on the top rack. I did one of the fastest U-turns ever. As the truck driver was unchaining the cars, he looked down and noticed me with a grin starring up at the new Javelin. He asked, "Is that yours ?" I almost got dizzy shaking my head yes. He said, "Climb up and get in," I got in the passenger seat, he in the drivers seat, then he started the car and rolled it off the truck. As he pulled it into the dealership lot the dealer came out, saw me getting out of the car and had a fit. Started yelling about insurance regulations and that he needed a few days to prep the car. He's tirade couldn't get the smile off my face from that first short ride. Nor did the dealer's tantrum seem to phase the truck driver. He was laughing at the even bigger goofy grin that his act of understanding and kindness had put on a 20 year old kids face. I thanked him and went off to work. Oh yeah,..... there was no noticeable coating of wax on the paint of my Javelin, or any of the other five new AMC cars on that trailer. Paul
  6. In 1974, in my bought-new 72 Javelin, on the way from Long Island to the wedding of one of my sister's in New Hampshire, as I drove across an overpass on Rt 95 north in Massachusetts, all the dash gauges spiked up to max. Then as I got to the other side of the overpass the gauges went back to normal. Later I discovered I had no turn signals. Stopped and checked the bulbs and not only turn signals were out but the (GE1157) brake light filaments were burned out too. This happen in clear weather, early afternoon, without the brake, or turn signals being on - so the bulbs were not in a closed circuit. Drove the car for over 100K miles more and it never happened again. A mystery to this day. Paul
  7. No surprise there. If it ain't got a number that's in their computer,.... the autoparts store guys are lost. Have you tried contacting EGGE in California ? They are not just pistons for old engines - they also make guides, valves, and other antique engine parts. Paul
  8. Properly applied, cured, block sanded, and rubbed out, you can't tell the difference between a good lacquer, or single stage paint job. Except with time - the lacquer job will show more road chips. Paul
  9. I still have one of those Esso "Put a tiger in your tank" tails. The elastic attaching loop is stretched out to the limit from having spent awhile wrapped around the gas tank filler neck of my 62 Chevy, back in the late 60'. I learned the hard way that spilled gasoline doesn't help elastic stay elastic. Everytime it became slack, I had wrap more turns around the filler neck to keep it on. Also have two small kerosene "hurricane lamps" that my folks got with books of gas station trading stamps like Victorialynn mentioned. If I remember correctly, they were given out by a Sunoco station near my folk's house.
  10. C Carl. Your welcome. There is a lot of info if you do a web search using the search term, "octane and flame front propagation". Keep in mind that todays gasoline is not the same as that from decades ago. With all the additives there is not much "gasoline" in today's gas. And additives can not only change octane rating, they can affect flame front propagation. So discussions of flame front based on old texts are not really relevant to what we can get at the gas pump, except to have a debate to chew on. Plus, octane rating is not the only thing that affects flame front propagation. Turbulence inside a combustion chamber, plus combustion chamber shape can also affect how a flame front can react. I would love to have some drums of fresh 57 octane gas from the late 1920's, plus some 1930 Sunoco Blue 70 octane, to try out on my customer's cars to see what they really ran like when new. We can restore them mechanically to showroom new, but we can't restore what comes out of the gas pumps. And that has a big affect on how they were originally designed to run. As you know, a lot has changed in the automotive chemical world in 90-100 years. Some things still apply and some don't. The trick is in don't assume everything they knew back then was the end-all be-all of automotive engineering knowledge. And conversely, don't assume that all "advancements" we've made are across the board best for antique cars. Paul
  11. I thought Octane referred to a fuel's ability to resist knock, or pre-ignition, hence the higher the compression, the higher the octane required. ?? jp 26 Rover 9 ------------------------------------------------- Yes, it is. For additional info on that look up what the term "anti knock index" means. Sometimes seen on gas pumps as "AKI". There's lots of info on octane rating verses flame propagation speeds, too. Here's just a bit of some of the explanation available. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=967599 Paul
  12. Just made a set of drive shaft discs for a Franklin Series 9 owner. Paul
  13. Thanks, edinmass. I thought Hardy was only on driveshaft parts on the other side of the big pond. My 33 Austin uses a Hardy-Spicer drive shaft. The same drive shaft on the US cars that I work on just says "Spicer". And the Franklin factory engineering drawings I have of the rubberized discs that Franklin used for their cooling fan and clutch disc hubs, and their u-joints, makes no mention of the "Hardy" name. Some of the u-joint parts drawings mention that the parts are sourced from Spicer. However, they do specify Goodyear, or Thermoid as their suppliers of those discs. In 35 years of working with these the only ones I've seen with a maker's name on them are the Goodyear discs. Most discs have no name at all, even though they are identical to the few marked Goodyear. Paul
  14. For those interested, here are some pix of recent drive shaft discs I've made. The first picture is disc sets for two Chandlers discussed in this thread, Also some pix of Franklin cooling fan hubs that I rebuild. And some 1920's and early 30's clutch discs that I also rebuild the hubs, plus reline with new friction facings. These fabric rings are not NOS, dried out, hardened rubber that will overheat during use, just a like an old canvas cord tire will fail. They are made from all new, modern synthetic material that is stronger and more oil, grease, and water resistant than the original vulcanized rubber and canvas discs were. Thank you. Paul
  15. If there was no primer under the oldest looking black paint in where it's tough to spray paint, such as down in the groove for the tower seal, that helps it lean towards black being the original color. Franklin dip painted all the non-body parts in black gloss enamel, with no primer used, just acid-etched. You can often see runs/sags in some of the parts and drips where they dried on the lowest edges/corners showing it was hung up to dry after dip painting. Paul