Tom_Overfield

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About Tom_Overfield

  • Rank
    Senior member
  • Birthday 10/31/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, Ohio
  • Interests:
    Cars, Lincolns, Giant Scale RC Aircraft, Sail Planes

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611 profile views
  1. Back in 2010 I asked the forum advice about installation of the rubber gravel guards, lots of good advice. I finally had to face this task this week and after three days of fitting two different types, here is what I found. I bought the rubber with the buttons on the back, and actually got all but two of the buttons into the original mounting holes, but it didn't fit tight to the bottom stainless The other guards I had were thinner, looked a bit better but needed trimmed on the body side. I took the Gorman guards, flipped them over for a pattern, marked the other guards and cut to size. When I fitted these to the fender, these were not long enought either, but they looked pretty nice. so, taking a deep breath, I cleaned the fender with prep-sol, then put an adhesion promoter on the fender. Did the same on the back of the gravel guard. I bought some molding mounting tape from the paint supply place I use and they claimed this is what German cars use for side moldings, very thin, extremely sticky. I ran this tape along the two long sides of the guard , across the top and bottom, then six pieces from side to side top,to bottom. Starting at the fender skirt skirt side I stuck that side first, then the top side from the skirt side toward the body, then working slowly, worked my way down, smoothing the rubber into place. In order to cover the top three mounting holes on the fender, I had to raise the guards up a little, leaving a slight gap at the bottom, but it's even, and all things considered, I am pleased with the result. Will attack the other side today. Tom
  2. I had a can of radio shack tuner cleaner and lubricant sitting on the shelf from years ago. I took your advice and glad it did as it really comes out fast.,,anyway, sitting on the bench ticking away. Now to see if it blows the fuse when the points close. IMG_0258.MOV
  3. Here is where the speedometer cable enters on my 41 Continental, under drivers side from fender you should see a one inch hole next to a wiring harness. The cable feeds up into that hole, then across to the speedometer.
  4. Well,i put a new fuse in and it blew instantly. Took the clock apart and the points were indeed stuck closed. Just a gently nudge opened them and they were slightly pitted. I cleaned them up and my wife has sewing machine oil with a syringe to get the oil into small places. I have tuner cleaner so I will spray it down let it dry, oil where I can, put it together and see what happens. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again Tom and, you also Beltfed, any idea where I might source a slo-blow 2amp fuse?
  5. I'll replace the fuse first before getting inside. If it blows, then I'll know there is a problem. Thanks Tom
  6. Update on progress, all of the dash wiring is in and connected, waiting on the radio to be sent back from Mike Hannigans Antigue Service as I couldn't source a 6 volt vibrator in the right pin configuration. He will go through the radio and install an electronic replacement board to replace the vibrator. Clock won't work so I took it out to be sent fro service and upon examining it, it looks like the day it left the factory, perfect condition. I was,thinking this HAS to run, put jumpers on it, applied six volts, it clicked once, put it to my ear and it was ticking happily away. Checked the wiring and found that teenie fuse had blown. So it will go back in tomorrow. Two more pipes to put in the exhaust system, then remove the back side upholstery, replace the top motors and wire them into the correct switch. That's it, by the middle of May I should be test driving it and ready for the Kalamazoo meet to be judged. Tom
  7. Here ya go JL, the stud on top of the circuit breaker, attaches with a nut and washer. Tom
  8. Wow, details everywhere to finish off the car, just an amazing amount of time dealing with what seems to be the simplest thing. The good news is, the dash is totally wired now and yesterday evening with my son's never ending help, I turned the key, pulled the switch out, reached under the dash and held the hidden switch to get the fuel pump going, we had cracked the line on the carb and it took longer than I expected to get the gasoline up there. Tightened the line, hit the starter button and it came to life after maybe two turns. Ran beautifully, smooth and quiet. Once warmed up, I shut it down for ten minutes or so, started it again and it was as close to an instant start I have every observed. There is a place close by that sells 90 octane non ethanol gasoline, and though it is not cheap at $3.16 a gallon, I won't have to worry about it going stale and absorbing moisture. Here are a few photos of the detail items I did this week so far. Tom
  9. I understand your frustration Ken, they did finally get around to crediting my Visa though. I really don't understand what the big deal is about the hoses, just buy the hose stock, cut to 8 inches and sell. Chris is always great to deal with and his parts always fit. Tom
  10. Hey Larry, maybe give Ray Theriault or Chris Herrel a call, betcha one of them can help, Alan also. Tom
  11. Sure Larry, enjoyed talking with you as well. Call me any time. Tom
  12. Hey puli, I don't know where you are writing from, but what you are asking for is still kind of confusing. The inside width of the c pillars seems clear enough, but unless there is something I am not seeing, looks like you could measure that part easy enough, but I havent the foggiest idea of what a restictor plate is. But if your talking about that rear hinge, looks like you have that measurement as well, just check the other door if you have to. Keep trying, I am sure some on here will jump into help. Regards Tom
  13. Boos- Herrell, has the part you need, listed in sources. Tom
  14. I am a couple of weeks away from being totally finished, then I have other projects to go after.
  15. Larry, you exactly right about the spare in the trunk business, no way in the world could I lift it outta that deep recess now. AAA and a flatbed works fine for me.