JZRIV

Members
  • Content count

    2,529
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

JZRIV last won the day on February 5

JZRIV had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

555 Excellent

6 Followers

About JZRIV

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    East of Pittsburgh (farm country)

Converted

  • Biography
    Live life daily by solid Christian values. Same ones our country was founded on but unfortunately are fading. Have a wonderful wife who likes Riviera's, loves to ride the 48 Indian Chief and do anything outdoors in the country where we live including riding her horse. No kids. I like American history and traveling by road trip in the USA whenever possible. Always attracted to anything with an engine especially pre-1970. First motorized machine I was the operator of was a Sears 3.5hp mini-bike at age 6. After that I was hooked, riding, repairing, buying and selling dirt bikes, then cars and was mostly self taught as no one else in the family was a car nut to guide me. Dad taught me to do the basics like tuneups, brakes, exhaust, etc on cars but being from near the depression era, he sees a car as a tool to get from point A to point B and no need to do anything other that what was necessary to keep it on the road. At age 17-19 I was full into the hobby and built a 4x4 Pinto. Dad sold me his rusted out 70 Bronco for the chassis and tolerated this project but know he felt it was a waste of money and time but probably figured at least I was at home and not out getting into trouble. No interest in todays stick and ball sports nor idolize movie stars (well, except for Clint Eastwood). Haven't played video games since Pacman in the early 80s! Didn't go to college but attended trade school during high school for Industrial Electricity which launched me into plastics manufacturing at age 17 in 1979. Except for 1 year as a heavy equipment operator after a plant closure, I've worked in all aspects of plastics manufacturing except sales.
    With Gods blessing I'll be able to retire around 65 and see more of the country by car.....and Indian with my wife.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,124 profile views
  1. Recommended oils can discussed till the cows come home. I personally would never use a 20-50. 10-30 for newer/tighter engines and 10-40 for higher mileage like 70k and up. It is advisable to use an oil with high zinc content which is actually called "high" by todays standards but was average for oils 10-15 years ago. Most oils that have high zinc will be classified as a racing oil. Looking at the specs, the Valvoline VR1 does have high zinc content 14ppm so it would be fine. Penngrade1 brand has a slightly higher level at 15ppm than VR1 but Penngrade1 is not as easily obtained in some areas. My local AP carries Penngrade1 so that's what I use in my car in old Indian While this topic has been beat to death for years on every car club discussion forum and magazine, I still have my doubts that using standard modern oil would cause problems for the average Riviera owner who might drive their car like an old lady a couple thousand miles a year. If this was the case older engines would be failing at an alarming rate because there are still a lot of people who aren't aware of the reduced zinc in modern oil. Higher RPM, hard driving, hot temperatures, HP performance mods (particularly increased valve spring pressures) it becomes much more important. Regardless if it is needed or not, why take the chance when high zinc content oils are readily available so we run high zinc oil.
  2. I believe that engine top has been repainted as its very different from the surrounding areas.
  3. Yea and hopefully they are in geographic area that is flat as a pancake.
  4. This showed up along my drive to work. Could not see phone number on sign due to being behind a cyclone fence but if someone is genuinely interested I can check it out closer.
  5. 1947 Indian Chief Roadmaster

    Hi - I know a little late to the show here. Don't check this forum too often way down here. First, if matching numbers are important to you, note that there are a lot of matching number bikes out there but many of them have been restamped to match and are not original factory stamped matching. First thing is get close up pics of frame and engine stamp. Most do not know how to tell. Post pics and I can tell you. There is no registry. This bike may be factory stamped but you must not assume. Original factory matching bikes do bring more money which is why so many try to fake them. Some re-stamps even occurred by dealers back in the day when replacement engines or cases were installed. These old bikes were wrecked often and engines failed so non-matching is quite common. Much easier to repalce engine vs rebuild back then. Often I see bikes on ebay that say "matching numbers" and its a true statement but they match because old numbers were ground off and a new one stamped. That does not qualify for a increased value. Must be factory matching stamps. Your title says 47 Chief Roadmaster. This bike has no Roadmaster emblems and may not ever was one. Only was to know for sure is an original bill of sale. Normally Roadmasters would have had the following as standard: chrome rims, windshield, saddle bags, handlebar cross bar, and spotlights and fender emblems. I see a windshield for it sitting in background so that's a nice accessory to have regardless. Hopefully it has the period mounting brackets to go with it. Not uncommon for these accessories to be added within a few years after purchase or even 60 years later. This bike does have an accessory crossbar where a windshield could be mounted but usually this bar could also be used to mount spotlights. The carb will be the least of your worries. Yes there are rebuild parts for them. Most parts are expensive for these Indians. Check the condition of the gas tanks. Paint does not look original to me. It does look like a nice example but pics are not that good to see much detail. How much are they asking.? You should inspect the fork and frame to look for signs of repair or damage When you buy a bike like this that does not run, you must assume engine and transmission work will be needed then if it doesn't, you will be thrilled with your purchase. Clutch work is also a possibility. The charging system will likely need attention too. Unless the wiring has been replaced or is in good condition, you will want to redo that. This is assuming you actually want to ride it. Some owners just want to look at them and have in collection. I have a 48 and ride it often since its the only bike I own. These are wonderful machines with proper setup and maintenance. They need brought out and ridden for the public to see just like our old cars.
  6. No not those colors I mentioned. There is a big difference between silver zinc dichromate plating (todays reproduction of silver cadmium plating) and gray phosphate. You are looking for a flat medium gray finish. Depending on shade I'm after I use a medium gray or dark gray primer with flat clear top coat.
  7. If I don't want to send something for plating, I use a combination/blend of chrome paint and Krylon Dull Aluminum which are two paints I always keep handy. With a little practice you can get it real close to zinc plating appearance
  8. Most likely pulley was originally silver cad and the fan was same, or it was stamped from hot galvanized finish metal sheet with a more dull gray uneven appearance. You will be OK if you have the pulley and fan silver zinc plated or paint to simulate same.
  9. North western PA just south of Erie. 1964 Probably a nice resto project. Seems decently solid. more so than what is normally found in these parts. Priced optimistically IMO.....for the seller that is https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/d/1964-buick-riviera/6244254826.html
  10. Yea looks right - Is that a rubber freeze plug filling the hole by the indentation? That set is grimy and can't tell overall condition from pic. A set in clean nice original condition never run through a media blaster, someone polishing them, no oxidation or cracked mounting holes will sell for $400. As condition deteriorates from this so does price. You have to watch the holes. They crack from over-torqueing. As-is set pictured with no physical damage I'd guess would be in range of $250 and hope they'd clean up. Could be diamond in rough if they do.
  11. August Bugle publish date

    I'll 2nd that. The article on the 57s was very detailed and informative especially for anyone thinking of buying a 57 that needs a lot of work and parts. I am always amazed at the large variation of models offered within a series.
  12. Need more info. What brand and type of regulator are you purchasing? Have they all been same brand or different. Solid state or mechanical? I know aftermarket parts can be suspect quality but 4 regulators in a year is a little odd.