1965rivgs

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About 1965rivgs

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    mooney.thomas@sbcglobal.net

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  1. Jim, It has been my experience working on many, many cars and truck AC systems that it is common for the manufacturer to allow for a partial fresh air intake even in recirc mode. The reason is full/complete recirc has the potential to make the conditioned air TOO dry, especially on long and extended trips. A small volume of outside air is enough to add a little humidity to the recirculated cabin air and ultimately output air. The symptoms of AC air that is too dry are an irritated throat/respiratory system and personally I have noticed it has a negative effect on my eyes. Regarding an "air in" door...if the door does not exist it is possible and very often the case with a malfunctioning door that firewall/plenum pressure while the vehicle is at speed can pressurize and force unwanted air flow from the HVAC registers. Providing an "air in" door prevents this phenomenon from occurring. There are instances of this issue in factory service bulletins over the years. Tom
  2. Thanks for following up Randall, Tom
  3. Oh yes, I understand your use of the terminology now. Tom
  4. No! The blue vinyl in 601 and 611 trims is not the same, at least not on the seats and side panels (see below for an example of vinyl "mix") . The 601 vinyl is a metallic like medium blue and the 611 vinyl is more like a powder blue color without any metallic "sheen". Sometimes Buick used materials that doesnt seem to make sense??? For instance, in the `65 models with the saddle interior Buick covered the knee pad under the glovebox with the champagne colored vinyl used in the Fawn cloth and vinyl interior??? Why didnt they use the same saddle vinyl as installed in the rest of the interior?? Who knows... Also, the binding around the saddle door panels is a bronze color (not sure if this color was used in the earlier models?) with the `64 seville vinyl grain pattern, not the madrid grain pattern as used on the rest of the interior? Tom
  5. Bob, I am not looking at any vendor sites for reference but just an FYI... the "outside air" terminology is generally associated with non AC applications and "recirculating air" is generally associated with AC equipped cars. In non AC Rivs there is a single stage diaphram in the same location as the AC/heat diaphragm on AC equipped cars (the one that controls airflow to the AC vents). The "recirc" diaphram on AC cars is located below the blower box on the pass side, hard to see from on top but very visible from below. This is also a dual stage diaphragm, same as the AC/heater diaphram on top. Hope this helps, Tom
  6. Bill, I dont believe this is correct, at least not current. The double diaphrams are available. The double diaphrams have 2 ports, that`s what makes them "double". Maybe we have a lapse in understanding re terminology? Tom Mooney
  7. Bill, I`m quite positive you and I discussed the actuator at the St Charles meet! You must have been in shock looking at all the beautiful Rivieras! Lol... Tom
  8. The custom trim blue cloth and vinyl is missing from this chart! Tom
  9. Gremlins

    Before disassembling the mechanism again, while you have access, try wiring the motor directly to battery power thus eliminating the possibility you have a compromised connection in the wiring/controls. I know it seems the motor is pulling amps but perhaps a poor connection is not allowing enough current to overcome the full down position to get the mechanism moving. If you apply power and the motor doesnt move you can try adding a direct connection between the motor itself and ground. Doing this is very little extra work and is at least a place to start to narrow down your problem. You could also try tapping/prying on the mechanism while applying power to check for binding....but be careful! Tom
  10. An AC vacuum pump or, with some modification, a compressor from an old refrigerator, the intake side of an electric tire pump, etc... In a pinch one can use another car and run a long run of vacuum line if not wanting to work around a running engine. Tom
  11. Hi Bob, Do you have rear brake lights with the headlights on? Probably not.... Both filaments in the rear bulbs are sharing the same path to ground. Generally, when one filament, in this case the brake/turn filament, is affected by operation of another filament, in this case the tailight filament, there is a problem with the available ground because both filaments are "competing" for the same ground. So, in this example, because the tailight filament is "using" the available ground there is not enough ground left for the brake/turn filament to light. Your tailight sockets are grounded to the BODY. You do not describe a good body ground? The factory used braided ground straps between the engine head bolts and the firewall. Often these are missing due to sloppy assembly of engine work or need to be cleaned due to engine paint, etc...do you have a good body ground? Although there are many unintended ground paths like accelerator linkage, etc the body is mounted with rubber insulators which can isolate the body from battery ground. Now that you are familiar with the use of a test light you should check to see if you have turn signal voltage at the socket assemblies. If so... You could try running a temporary ground directly from the neg battery post to one of your taillight sockets to be absolutely sure you have adequate ground at the sockets to fire the brake/turn filament. Tom PS The above is assuming one or both of the sockets has been wired properly. When folks start snippin` and splicin` anything is possible!
  12. Hi Bob, Yes, that is the actuator and location I was referring to. Obviously the door/linkage should be free enough for the actuator to do its job. You could try disconnecting the linkage from the actuator and see if the actuator is retracting when it should. These are almost always bad or work intermittently but who knows, you may get lucky. As I and others have stated you can force/hold the linkage in the AC position as a temporary repair. Tom
  13. Low volume from the AC registers is generally attributable to the vacuum actuator located at the upper pass side of the firewall. There should be mechanical linkage which is exposed enabling you to judge whether the vacuum can is pulling it all the way to the limit of its travel. If not, one can physically pull the linkage toward the can and block it there to direct full blower volume to the AC registers. If the can is not performing properly it could be due to low vacuum or the can is bad. Both possibilities are very common. I would suggest simply replacing it rather than trying to "rebuild" it. We are fortunate a replacement is available! Keep in mind there can be other causes for low volume like air leaks in the post blower system. Hope this helps, Tom PS The original systems can blow ice cold, ie 36 degrees F at the pass AC vent, but if using R134 results will be less. In addition to the efficiency of the AC refrigerant system one must consider whether the cabin is well sealed. The first gen Rivs leak air profusely so good weatherstripping and sealing at the frameless glass interfaces is very important to keep cabin temps low enough to be comfortable in challenging conditions.
  14. Correct Bob...do an internet search and you will find a site which explains the details. If you fail to find it send me a PM and I will look. Someone in the past has posted the site on this forum previously. I think it was Ed? The application for the stock alt is `85 Riv, among other applications. Tom
  15. Jim, The `64 and `65 vacuum cans have an internal check valve, perhaps the can you installed does also. My `84 and `85 also have an external check valve. I had to eliminate the check valve at one time because the nipple broke off and had the same problem with the HVAC doors as the earlier models with a bad check valve. Tom