68RIVGS

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About 68RIVGS

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  • Birthday 05/11/1940

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Downtown Stittsville - Ottawa, Ontario
  • Interests:
    Old Cars, Antiques, Aircraft, and Digital Photography

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  1. . . . it sure does look like a nice, unmolested, original '69 Riviera !
  2. . . . sure sounds like the harness connection to the master switch is loose or separated from the switch as others have stated. Check for +12V DC on the main power feed wire going to the master switch - as it could be a broken power feed wire in the harness where it fits inside the rubber door jamb sleeve too? They do get brittle with age, and are subject to breaking with the constant flexing from the opening and closing of the driver's door.
  3. Has the earlier style 'door pulls', so it's an early production '68, and a very nice one too !
  4. Pretty amazing what you will find in these old molested Rivieras that ain't factory Mike. On the upside you now know how your windows are wired and they will work one at a time ! Keep that old PW relay as a spare, it was probably working OK, before that added fuse blew.
  5. . . . pry bar, long screw driver, tire iron, or just about anything that is long enough, small enough and sturdy enough to pry with ?
  6. Glad you were able to close them by hot-wiring the PW switch Mike ! Might also be a good idea to double check the door wiring harness in the rubber sleeve between the front of the door and the door pillar. Age, and constant flexing in the same spot over the years, with the opening and closing of the doors (...in particular the driver's door), will cause some of the wires in the harness to break. If the large red +12V DC wire is broken your master switch will not raise, or lower the windows ?
  7. Those wheel covers were doomed right from the design and manufacturing stage - combining unprotected steel parts with stainless in the wheel covers did not ensure any long term reliability ! Might last a little longer in the southern , or mid west areas, but in the snow belt where they use road salt to melt winter ice, it was only a matter of time and exposure to achieve the results you have shown via your pictures. As 60FlatTop stated - " That wheel cover is toast" ! The easiest fix is to replace the rusted out ones with better condition, good used covers, or switch to chrome road wheels which are not period correct. They were not designed to last forever, just like us, and most of the consumer products we use today !
  8. Gotta luv those '68 beauties - in fact, all 2nd gen Rivs !
  9. Some are difficult to replace and some can be reached easily. Removing the dash pad will help but it's still pretty tight back there, and have lots of bandages available. There are some pretty sharp metal edges back there !
  10. A very nice looking '68 Riviera Mike ! As Jason stated the power locks were vacuum operated, like other accessories - be glad you don't have them - they are a P.I.T.A. with miles of color coded rubber hoses and hardware. If you check out my Riv pics (...on page 1 #17) there is one another option that really dresses up these cars - there were shiny stainless steel inserts between the lower body side moldings and rocker panel. Option W5 - Custom Bright Exterior Moulding that cost all of $47.10 way back in '68 ! Post some interior and engine pics when you get a chance - maybe after most of your new/old car problems are handled.
  11. With almost 50 year old wiring, and connection devices on these cars, anything is possible Mike ! There should be two ground straps running from the rear of each engine head bolts to the firewall - you will find that old age, corrosion and poor chassis ground connections are common wiring faults. They just didn't build them to last this long, and sometimes it can be a very simple fix to get things working properly again ! Ground connections can look tight, but where possible, remove them and clean the connections to ensure they are properly grounded and securely fastened. That portion of the front wiring harness running over the HOT intake manifold should be protected by a wire loom of some sort, even if it is not period correct ! Those loose bundled wires are not protected, and all those splices are left exposed - not a good idea !
  12. For reasons unknown, the relay 'click' is much more audible when the switch gets turned OFF either position - not ON ! There is a slight slight audible click when the ignition switch is turned ON and both lights (...GEN, and OIL) are in full brilliance, but it's much louder when the switch is turned OFF. It comes from the centre area of the dash, just behind the radio where the PW relay is located. . . . at least that is how my '68 works Mike. NEVER assume anything when it comes to these cars ! LOL
  13. The dash pad is much easier to remove, and will give you access to the PW relay but you will need to remove the speaker grill - ashtray, radio and centre dash vent bit 'n pieces prior to dash pad removal. You will also have to remove the glove box liner to gain access to some of the dash pad retainers - then there are 3 spring type pins that secure the dash pad in place, one on ach side of the cluster and one on the right side of the dash. Don't forget to remove the screws at the top of the plastic instrument cluster bezel before you pull the dash pad back from the dash. If you have an AC or none-AC equipped car there is little to no access from the lower portion of the dash without removing most of the cloth ducting. Everything is old, brittle and well aged so be very gentle when removing all the bits 'n pieces. Removing the plastic instrument cluster bezel is a P.I.T.A. task - and is best avoided unless your doing a concours restoration. I removed mine once, and will never attempt it again if it can be avoided ! . . . hope this helps.
  14. . . . are we having fun yet Mike? The PW Relay is buried, and mounted near the centre of the dash area - when you turn the ign. switch OFF from ACC, or ON, you should hear an audible 'click' when the relay works.The ignition key buzzer (...if working), will also sound if the key is left in the ignition. On page 120-117 - Power Window Wiring Diagram, the PW relay is referred to as an 'Ignition Relay' on the left side of the diagram. The 40 AMP circuit breaker on the fuse panel is for the power accessories, windows and seat as they draw a lot of current to function. Just use an ohm meter to see if it is working - it's just a heavy duty fuse. I have never operated the windows in tandem, just one at a time, but I might just try it - cleaning, adjusting and lubing tracks, and pivot points will certainly improve the operation of the power windows, but that job should go on a separate work order !!
  15. It looks pretty decent Mike, and I like the color too - enjoy !! If you have questions there are lot's of answers here, but a '68 Buick Shop manual would be a good investment. There are tons of info available in that publication, and it's available in hard copy, or CD format, whichever you prefer. Personally I like the printed hard copy, but you can always print desired pages from the CD. Money well spent (...IMHO), and you'll probably answer a lot of your own questions too !