ACowboy

How can one tell the difference between a 1930, 1931, and 1932 Ford Tudor body BESIDES the grill shell and rear gas tank? It seems to me that the bodies themselves all look similar and that only the grill shell and rear gas tank ('32) were different between the model years. Does anyone else know the main distinctions of each of the bodies???

How can one tell the difference between a 1930, 1931, and 1932 Ford Tudor body BESIDES the grill shell and rear gas tank? It seems to me that the bodies themselves all look similar and that only the grill shell and rear gas tank ('32) were different between the model years. Does anyone else know the main distinctions of each of the bodies???

The 28-30 had three different mounting hole patterns not design changes. Fender brackets were all the same, only the positioning was different depending on the following body styles (hence the different hole patterns) - Coupe/Roadster (Passenger) - Tudor Sedan - Truck The 31 had four different mounting hole patterns - Coupe/Roadster (Passenger) - Tudor Sedan - Truck - Slant Windshield 4-dr. (which was the reason for the added crossmember in 1931) The only thing that I don't know is if the frame itself was the same and only the bolt patterns were different or if the frames themselves were different. (Same wheelbase and frame widths?) For example, if I had a Model-A frame from 1931 can I put any one of mentioned body styles on that frame? Or, do I have to put a Roadster body on the Roadster frame? Yes, I know that a Roadster frame will not have the Tudor, Truck, or Slant Windshield mounting holes.

Wanted to confirm my thoughts/research. The frames of the 28-31 Model-A were all the same. I think that, with the others, the coupes, roadsters, and pickups all shared the same frame. The main difference was that the "cars" had different leaf springs than the light "trucks". The 82-A and 82-B Pickup, for example, have 10 leafs. Remember, I am only referring to Model-A's. The AA's frames (commercial trucks) were much different than the A and had the 131-1/2" wheelbase. Is this correct, that the 28-31 cars and light trucks used the same frame?

I have completed the restoration of my Model-A Truck frame (82- and drivetrain and have a complete rolling chassis. I am in need of a 29-31 pickup body w/cowl, bed, and fenders. Would consider a complete donor or just body/cowl. I could get the fenders, running boards, hood, grill, and complete bed so offer what you've got. Would prefer w/in a reasonable distance from Richmond, VA, otherwise would need to be crated and shipped. Please, no rust-buckets as I can't do body work. Unless you do the bodywork and offer it to me finished and primed. Thanks, David

FYI, for those interested. After much research I was finally sent to Snyder's Antique Auto garage (http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com). The complete top iron kit and black vinyl top is well under $1000 with a plastic back glass installed. Complete top with stainless window frame and real glass is just under $1000. Add $180.00 for black canvas instead of vinyl and $90 more gets you tan canvas instead of black vinyl. These aren't as exclusive as the other more expensive ones, but for someone on a budget these a very reasonable. I don't expect to get any extra points for having a LeBaron Bonney top anyway.

I have to agree w/ Bob. I can't see anyone getting upset about using donor parts and after all, we get judged for having the car as original as possible and let's face it...there aren't many ORIGINAL parts out there anymore. So, what's wrong with using a blank repro plate or a new solid metal fender from Brookville as opposed to bondo-ing the [censored] out of an "ORIGINAL" fender? I think and am hoping that the whole discussion is based merely on the fear of getting duped by buying a clone instead of original. But lets face it...if the car is absolutely drop-dead gorgeous perfect for a "decent" price...I'd be suspect anyway. Unless its an ex-wife selling a car to get back at her "husband ran off with the secretary" rarity...and she better be 80 years with Alzheimers old because I'd still be suspect. If it IS a drop-dead gorgeous perfect rare car...than I probably can't afford it anyway! Besides, somebody in this forum would have beat me to it <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'd say: Female in her early 20's

I agree. Unless the VIN gives it away...it sure looks like a flatbed pickup to me. If you put some rails it would definitely look like a farm vehicle thats to transport bailed hay/grass! It's all in the presentation and intended use. Most insurance agencies don't require pictures unless you a looking for full coverage anyway. Because it is older than 1978, in Virginia it would be considered an Antique vehicle. Sneed Insurance just gave me a quote for $250/year on this truck (if I were the owner). We have seen several "Antique" car haulers, fire trucks, ambulance trucks, military trucks etc. at our yearly meet here called "Field Day of the Past". All have the antique plates and all have collector car insurance. But, don't forget, the hauler cannot be used as a hauler just like the fire engine can no longer be used to put out real fires. The insurance agency already finds it odd that someone wants to own a car hauler, but the owner claims that it only would be used to carry the owner's personal cars. Yeh...right <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" /> So, expect an addendum to the insurance policy that it cannot be used to haul ANY vehicle. This may be part of the problem in selling it and this one: with your "Buy it Now" price it would be cheaper to get a brand new 8.5x20 enclosed trailer to haul my beauty with. (I just bought a brand new one in North Carolina for $4700)

Wow, this was a lot of reading and hate to add to it, but I do have a question. Model-A's are too well known for having the VIN of the engine as the vehicles VIN number. So, if someone sells a model-a engine to another model-a owner...who gets to keep the vin? AND, if the second Model-A owner (the buyer) did not have the original engine or title...is the seller ALLOWED to just give him the title w/the engine? Most of the title's that I've seen for sale are Model-A's (usually without the car OR engine). Personally, without getting slammed from anyone, I am sure that there is some kind of legality in it if one restored a vehicle that existed before DMV's did and was in need of a title. If any of you have restored a pre-WWII vehicle that did not have a title I am sure you know how difficult it is to obtain a title from ANY state's DMV.

A while back I saw an article in a magazine that I can no longer remember where someone in PA made the top irons themselves out of wood. There was a step by step with pictures and it wasn't that difficult and looked really sharp once varnished/stained (thats what one did back before the internet age anyway). I'm starting to think that I might have to bite the bullet, but it would be nice to spread my money around a bit and get more things for my money than just a top. The top kits range from $1800 to as high as $3000. The prices seem a little odd because I can get the top made for less than $400 at the local upholstery shop (they made the top for my original 27 Dodge) and Bratton's Antique Auto Parts used to sell the top iron assembly for $420 in 1998. As far as the streetrod goes...I won't talk about it here anymore. So, lets just act like it doesn't exist.

I asked for information as to where I could find the top irons and vinyl top for a 29 Model-A roadster or if anyone could provide me with a diagram/schematic of theirs because I was thinking of possibly making my own because most of the ones that I had found were outrageously expensive. My signature "used to be" my AACA and NSRA membership numbers and a picture of my 29 streetrod, which I smartly have now removed from my profile. That's it nothing else.

This was intended for the original. I have a very custom and very nicely done 29 roadster streetrod and an original 29. Most of the older people that I meet at the NSRA are there because they were someday snobbed by someone just like the message above. At least they have found a forum and a family somewhere else. Ashamed. But, I am also a proud member of AACA so we are not all like this.

Listen, quit trying to install "new" things until you have found your problem! Your timing is off. This is why you are backfiring through the carb and exhaust. Take a second, step back, and think about what is going on. The gas is firing where the fumes are when the spark ignites. If either the intake valve or exhaust valve is open the ignition of the fumes causes the fire to go everywhere...up the intake valve if it is partly open or down the exhaust tube if the exhaust valve is partly open. The rest of your "running bad" is simply because the timing is off. Sorry, but it is that simple! Loosen the nut at the distributor and with a friend cranking the engine simply turn the distributor SLOWLY in one or the other direction until it is firing smoothly or at least the backfire is stopping. THEN use the timing light to narrow it down perfectly. If the timing is really bad the light won't help because you are too far off. The light is used to fine tune the timing when you get in in the general area. Otherwise, you think that you are at 10 degrees when you really are not. Make sure that the first cylinder is at TDC of the ignition stroke and look at the rotor to make sure that it is pointing at cylinder 1 on the distributor cap. Take a spark plug (any spark plug will do) and put it on each ignition wire. Have your friend crank the engine a little until you see a spark coming from each wire. If that is the case, no problem with the coil, rotor, distributor cap, ignition wires, or spark plugs. Only thing left is the timing and there is NOTHING to replace! You could have something as stupid as a broken point in the distributor cap OR you have the spark plug wires in the wrong position on the distributor cap. SO, stop buying stuff until you've checked your spark at the end of each spark plug wire, make sure that you have the ignition wires at the right place on the distributor cap (the right firing order) and then move on to the general timing (as mentioned above), and THEN to the fine tuning (with the light). You distributor could be 180 degrees off (completely turned around) and the engine would still fire and run horrible. This happened on my 68 Mustang after a rebuild. I thought I had the distrbutor on the right way, but it was a full 180 degrees backward. A very good friend and master mechanic turned the distributor a full 180 degrees and wham...purred like a kitten. Sometimes you just need to step back a minute and think. Some people think better with a cup of coffee...others with a case of beer.

Does anyone know where I could find the top irons and vinyl top for a 29 Model-A roadster or if anyone could provide me with a diagram/schematic of theirs because I was thinking of possibly making my own because most of the ones that I had found were outrageously expensive. Thanks, David