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About Rusty_OToole

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  1. I would try using thin oil like 10W30 with an additive like Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone. And some in the gas. Then take a few long trips, 100 miles per day. If it did not get any better then the only thing to do is tear it down for a ring and valve job. Sometimes they free up and sometimes they don't. But short local trips won't do much, the engine has to get good and hot.
  2. I had an 84 Renault Le Car with a hand choke. Last one I saw and possibly the newest car I owned with a carburetor. It ran great and was super economical.
  3. As the title says I need a back bumper and rocker panel moldings for a 1966 Dodge Coronet sedan. This is a driver not a show car. So they do not have to be perfect. O ya, could use a windshield washer reservoir.
  4. Do you know what valve adjustment procedure is recommended by the factory? Or what clearance is recommended? Here is an idea borrowed from Triumph motorcycles. They were to be adjusted with 0 clearance on the intake and .002 on the exhaust. This was achieved very easily by adjusting the intake so it would not move up and down but could be turned between the fingers. The exhaust likewise but with just a trace of up and down movement, but no click. You could do the same on Stephens to achieve 0 clearance, then back off the adjuster a certain number of turns to the correct clearance. This would require measuring the movement per turn of the adjusting screw or taking one out and measuring the threads per inch and knowing what the clearance was supposed to be. Don't forget the leverage of the rocker multiplies the clearance, usually 1 1/2 to one. It would be a nuisance to figure this all out from scratch, but you only need to do it once. With the engine apart is a good time to measure everything.
  5. Advertised as the Futuramic Oldsmobile, I don't know why they didn't sell better but there seem to be hardly any of them around. This was the last year of the flathead straight eight. Road tester Tom McCahill panned it, saying its performance was as exciting as a pocket full of wet pancakes and when you step on the gas you get a squish instead of a swish. This got him a lot of flack from Olds owners and dealers but later an Olds insider told him it was the clincher they needed to get approval for the Olds V8 which was originally scheduled to go to Buick.
  6. The alternative is stitching with screw in pins. No heat and it does a permanent repair. Look up Jay Leno's video on Youtube, they fixed a 1910 engine block for him after it threw a rod broke the block in pieces.
  7. That must be the first engine with ball and socket rocker arms, touted as an innovation by Chev and Pontiac in 1955. The adjustment certainly is easy to get at especially compared to the typical flathead engine of the times.
  8. Evaporating gas absorbs a lot of heat too. Put a little gas on your hand and blow on it, see how cold it gets. Alcohol even more.
  9. Does anyone know about the 29 Nash standard 6? It is a flathead while the other Nashes are OHV. This suggests they may have bought Continental or other proprietary engines for their cheaper line. Does anyone know if it is their own make or bought? They have 7 main bearings. Is it a good engine?
  10. Never heard of it before. It may have been an idea of your dealer. The synthetic paints used then did not need any protection for at least 6 months. A properly run dealership should turn over its stock every 30 days. So, I don't know what the idea was.
  11. Am I the only one who noticed the Chev cab and Nissan box are on some kind of late model chassis? Notice how the wheels are too small, and stick out past the fenders both front and rear?You can see what looks like IFS and a coil spring in the first picture. Looks like someone put together a truck out of whatever junk they had available.
  12. There are a lot of helpful guys here. They can answer almost every question, to do with old cars. Once you stop fooling around.
  13. Trisha if you are not familiar with Fluid Drive suggest you go to the Chrysler board and do a search for Fluid Drive. There is lots of information about them. In your case, I believe you have the regular 3 speed not the self shifting transmission. So it will not shift itself. What you have is a cross between a manual and automatic transmission. You need to use the clutch to shift into gear, after that drive it like an automatic. You do not need to slip the clutch, in fact the less you slip the clutch the better. Let the Fluid Drive do the work. Most of the time it is best to start off in second gear, shift into high once you get going 5 or 10 MPH then just stay in high. You can even start off in high but it will be pretty sluggish. In stop and go traffic you can leave it in second. The make of tire does not matter much. Whatever tire you get, will be way better than anything they had in 1941. You are right to look for the least aggressive looking tread. Something you may not be aware of is that older cars need a lot more maintenance than new ones. I am talking about things like oil changes, lubrication, tune ups and adjustments. Do you have a friend or mechanic who is familiar with the old cars? The maintenance schedule is laid out in the owner's manual. Cars like yours were quite reliable when new but that was a long time ago. They can still be reliable if well maintained.
  14. Does your engine have timing marks?
  15. Bias ply tires all had an aspect ratio of 100. Maybe some very late 'wide oval' tires were lower but, all others 100. You want to use the highest aspect ratio you can get and try to get near the same outside diameter as you can. And, narrow tires for the old cars. Cheap tires can be narrower than more expensive tires of the same nominal size by 2 to 3 inches.