Jim Cannon

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About Jim Cannon

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    '63 Riv Tech Advisor

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    Male
  • Location:
    : Houston, TX (winter) Hiawassee, GA (summer)

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  • Biography
    I learned to sail when I was 10 years old. I am an Eagle Scout. I have always had The Knack for repairing things mechanical and electrical. I learned Spanish on the streets of Miami from the children of Cuban refugees. I can tread water for hours with my hands and feet bound. I am a recognized expert on the 1963 Buick Riviera. My hands work independently of each other, allowing me to do two things at once with them (such as remove or tighten nuts or bolts).

    I once constructed a "bicycle built for two" with the riders sitting back-to-back, just to show it could be done. I spent a week traveling up the Amazon River by boat. I swim with piranha. In my spare time I build model bridges with wooden match sticks. I love to teach science to Second Graders, and tutor Physics and Calculus to High School students. I played golf twice and decided it was not very challenging, so I dropped it. I cook award-winning Churrasco.

    I collect music from the 20s and 30s on original 78 rpm records and play it on my three vintage Victrolas. I don't perspire. I can throw playing cards across the room with deadly accuracy. I was the 11th caller, and I could name that tune. Jimmy Carter and I built houses together all over the world. I successfully kept hummingbirds in my aviary; zoos consult me on their care.

    I restored my first horseless carriage when I was 14 years old, something that I enjoy to this day. I learned to drive a car with a clutch on a 1929 Ford; the car sits in my garage to this day. I'm completely ambidextrous, which allows me to paint a house in half the time. Despite rumors to the contrary, I have never infiltrated a secret Russian air base outside Moscow. I hunt quail on the pampas of Uruguay. My work was instrumental in understanding how much damage had occurred during the accident at Three Mile Island. To entertain myself, I recite Burns aloud. I am no longer welcome at the Palms in Vegas.
  1. Bill- If the CD is damaged, I will replace it. You can use the measurements for the '64 Horn installation to place the horn brackets on your '63. The horns are different but the installation is the same. I think you will have to find a copy of the '64 Shop Manual to get those measurements.
  2. You have come to the right place!!! The drawings that you posted are correct only for the early-'63 Riviera. Later they were moved to both be on the driver's side. What month was your car built and do you have factory A/C in the car? This makes a difference. The horn numbers are what is important on the '63. Do you have the horns or are you still looking for them? ================================================== Horn identification: Small horn Large horn length pitch stamp* length pitch stamp* 1963 14" Bb 948 24" C 949 1964 12" C 898 22" D 897 1965 N/A B 930** 22" D 897 * There are identifying numbers stamped into the flange of the trumpet base. These numbers correspond with the last 3 digits of the GM part number (group 2.810, part number 1999xxx). ** The 1965 small horn was superceded with the same small horn that was used in 1964. Source: Chip Little ================================================= I have them on my '63 and I can assure you they are LOUD. They really get attention when you use them. You also need proper mounting screws and the wiring harness.
  3. If the only problem you have is leaking at the shaft, you can replace the shaft seal and be done with it. After the pulley comes off, the seal comes right out with a a couple of small sheetmetal screws and you pry it out. Slide the new seal on. Cover the threads on the shaft with masking tape to protect the seal lip and oil it well with ATF to slide it on. There are instructions in the factory shop manual on doing this job. If you can't find the seal number at your local auto parts store, let me know and I will find it in my notes.
  4. Watching Season 7 Episode 12 of Hawaii-50 tonight, a story about new car sales, one of the sales guys had a sweet B&W poster of a '63 Riviera on the wall in his office! Mainly the left front corner, headlights and fender. I'd love to have one. 8-)
  5. I suggest you look through the "Garage Journal " forum. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ This is discussed in detail. Yes, there is a lag in heating. You need to start heating the slab well before you want the heat. But once you do, it is really even and steady. I built a 35x48 garage a few years ago and investigated heating the slab before pouring it, It depends a lot on where you are (how cold it gets and for how long) and what your heat source is going to be (natural gas, electric, etc.) to decide if it makes sense. I decided not to do it.
  6. Does the car have A/C? Sounds like the "Riviera rattle" to me.
  7. Why do you want to remove it? Seems kind of extreme. I'm pretty sure it is not intended to be removed.
  8. Did you check the condition of the U-joints and the driveshaft center bearing when you had the driveshaft out to rebuild the transmission? That could be the source of your noise. Also make sure that the bearing mount bracket bolts were tightened when the driveshaft was reinstalled. Does your car have A/C? The Dynaflow should not leak. Check the cooler lines that go from the transmission to the radiator. Make sure they are tight where they come out of the transmission.
  9. I just tapped into one of the fuses that are hot all the time. I don't remember which one. My fuel pump does not draw much current. You are correct, running all that ACC power through the ignition switch is a weak point of the wiring. If I ever get in there, I will rewire that through a relay. My ignition switch gets hots after the car has been running a while.
  10. Yes. One side of the fuse panel is hot all the time (windows, courtesy lights, etc.). The other side only comes on with the key (wipers, radio, etc.). Tap into something on the "hot all the time" side. Choose a pretty high amp fuse so that you have enough current to run your pump (not a 3 amp instrument panel lights fuse). Be sure to be on the side of the fuse where the fuse protects you. Disconnect the battery ground cable before you start messing with the fuse panel. It is easy to accidentally short out against the metal stuff under there.
  11. I put my electric fuel pump on a switch that is spring loaded. I press it down for a minute or two before cranking, to refill the carb. Then the engine starts right up. I do not hold the fuel pump on all the time. The mechanical pump picks up from there. If you do this, you do not need a safety switch or relay. You are taking power straight off the fuse panel fuses that are hot all the time.
  12. Thanks for introducing another youngster to old cars. Excellent! OK, two parts to your question answered below: 1) When you look at the temperature switch connector from above, it forms the shape of a capital "L". The connector that forms the upright part of the L is for the "cold light" (dark green wire on a '63). When the engine is cold, this tab is grounded. The cold temp light bulb has power all the time and is seeking a ground. It gets it here. The tab that forms the base of the L is for the "hot light" (yellow wire on a '63). Same deal, it provides a ground to the hot light bulb. I can send you a photo if you want. 2) The 1963 Buick Shop Manual says that the cold light comes on when it is below 110 deg. F. That is consistent with my experience. In Houston, where it gets quite hot, my cold light is on when I first start a cold engine. It does not stay on long! Hope this helps. BTW, the two terminals on the switch will never have continuity between them for a properly functioning switch.
  13. Yes, the above is what you'd need to do, but you don't want to tie into the console switch, you want to work with the 3 wires coming into a door switch so that all of the lights will come on. And just as the door switch does, you need to keep the 3 wires that come into the switch isolated from each other when the switch is not providing a ground. To do this, you really need 3 relays. In addition to the timing circuit holding power to the relays after you close the door, you also want to slowly add resistance to the ground to get the lights to fade out, rather than just blink off, at the end of the timed period. After the resistance is quite high, then the relays can be de-energized. I am sure this is all something that an electronics whiz can cook up in an afternoon. The delay time needs to be adjustable.
  14. Yes. Easy to do. Remove some hex-head screws from the back side. And if this means you will now have the correct '63 center pieces with the 3 silver shields (instead of red/white/blue tri-shield) I would like to buy them from you. HTH.
  15. I do have one of them, Ed, and I still don't think it's worth $100! I have no idea where this high price came from, but once one person used it, it seems like they all ask that much. I guess ONE copy was sold for this at some time in the past (to some crazy person on eBay?) and now all the book dealers see that and use that as their starting price. Maybe this lower price auction sale will pull the price down. A quick look on Amazon shows a publication date of 1986. They have copies for sale by various book dealers for prices that range $80 to $203. Crazy.