Jim Cannon

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About Jim Cannon

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    '63 Riv Tech Advisor

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    Male
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    : Houston, TX (winter) Hiawassee, GA (summer)

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  • Biography
    I learned to sail when I was 10 years old. I am an Eagle Scout. I have always had The Knack for repairing things mechanical and electrical. I learned Spanish on the streets of Miami from the children of Cuban refugees. I can tread water for hours with my hands and feet bound. I am a recognized expert on the 1963 Buick Riviera. My hands work independently of each other, allowing me to do two things at once with them (such as remove or tighten nuts or bolts).

    I once constructed a "bicycle built for two" with the riders sitting back-to-back, just to show it could be done. I spent a week traveling up the Amazon River by boat. I swim with piranha. In my spare time I build model bridges with wooden match sticks. I love to teach science to Second Graders, and tutor Physics and Calculus to High School students. I played golf twice and decided it was not very challenging, so I dropped it. I cook award-winning Churrasco.

    I collect music from the 20s and 30s on original 78 rpm records and play it on my three vintage Victrolas. I don't perspire. I can throw playing cards across the room with deadly accuracy. I was the 11th caller, and I could name that tune. Jimmy Carter and I built houses together all over the world. I successfully kept hummingbirds in my aviary; zoos consult me on their care.

    I restored my first horseless carriage when I was 14 years old, something that I enjoy to this day. I learned to drive a car with a clutch on a 1929 Ford; the car sits in my garage to this day. I'm completely ambidextrous, which allows me to paint a house in half the time. Despite rumors to the contrary, I have never infiltrated a secret Russian air base outside Moscow. I hunt quail on the pampas of Uruguay. My work was instrumental in understanding how much damage had occurred during the accident at Three Mile Island. To entertain myself, I recite Burns aloud. I am no longer welcome at the Palms in Vegas.
  1. Yes, try replacing the flasher can. If your cornering lights work correctly, then your turn signal switch actuating cable is good. Front turn signal sockets can also loose their ground. Check them with an ohmmeter. Your FB number is late enough for you to have the heavier duty, thicker cable outer sheath. That makes it more durable. You should still remove the long coil spring from the turn signal switch.
  2. The 425 was the announced in December 1962. The first cars to have them started coming out in January 1963.
  3. You have a tilt column, correct? You will find the instructions in the shop manual for adjusting the turn signal switch to be incorrect for a tilt wheel. They are correct for a fixed wheel. I understand how it is difficult to get under the instrument panel. You don't need to, really. Remove the trim piece from the underside of the column to expose the turn signal actuator cable. Trace it down to the switch. Look at the switch with a light. As you actuate the turn signal lever, you should see the wire moving the black switch pin "up and down" the column for each turn direction. I have found that the signals work if you lower the tilt wheel. Try different positions down. Try holding the sheath against the column with your fingers while actuating the turn signal lever. That helps compensate for a broken sheath up at the actuating end of the cable. If you ever get under there to remove the switch, remove the long coil spring on the turn signal switch. You don't need it, and the spring breaks the cable. What is the build date code on your car, or the FB number from the data plate above the booster?
  4. Can you provide an auction number? I could not find it.
  5. The dimple appeared around FB number 4000, 3rd week of October, so it could be "early" and still have the dimple. The A/C muffler appeared around the same time (FB4000). The 140 MPH speedometer did not appear until around FB 6000, or 1st week of November. Still kind of early. The ribbed dash came out in late-November, around FB 10,000. I hope this helps everyone understand how the various changes rolled out.
  6. RRB- You have the classic symptoms of a broken turn signal switch cable outer sheath. Look at the end by the switch. Remove the steering wheel and look at the actuator end. Let me know which end is broken and I can help you fix it.
  7. Heavy- Duty Springs?

    I had to go back and read my original post again. The parts book lists HD springs, not shocks, for the Riviera. If your car rides so poorly, pretty much any shock that fits will help it ride better. Use the Monroe numbers I listed above.
  8. Heavy- Duty Springs?

    Tom Mooney is correct. If you found Monroe shocks on your car, they are not factory. When I replaced my car's shocks in 2004, I put in Monroe 5759 in the front and 5760 in the rear. The car rides well. The shocks are not anything fancy. Not setup for racing. Just a standard comfortable ride. I can get you the GM part number for the HD shocks, if you want, but I do not think that it will do you much good today. Just let me know.
  9. Keep in mind that the ground post on the Riviera goes on the fender side of the battery compartment, and the positive post goes over by the radiator. Many people install the battery backwards. If installed on the fender side, the positive post can short out against the underside of the hood, sometimes with messy results. And there is also a picture in the 1963 Service Bulletins* (I assume carried forward into 1964 -- if so, would be in the '64 shop manual) of routing the positive battery cable between the battery hold down rod and the battery itself. That makes the cable run a bit longer. * I sell this on CD, for 1963 and 1964, for $10 ea. plus postage, $12 for 1965 (2 CD set)
  10. Chris- From the 1963 Buick Master Chassis Parts Book*, the original GM part numbers for the 1963 Riviera models are: Battery Positive to Terminal Block (on inner fender): 2982505 Terminal Block to Starter: 2982509 Battery Ground Cable 2982507 I have a 1964 parts cross reference book that quotes the following lengths for the above: 2982505 34 inches 2982509 32 inches 2982507 23 inches The cross reference book is NOT a GM document, it is from an aftermarket supplier. It also lists GM part numbers for the cables for 1964: Battery Positive to Terminal Block (on inner fender): 2982505 (same part number as 1963) Terminal Block to Starter: 2983866 32 inches (same length as 1963, but different part number) Battery Ground Cable 2983775 22 inches (1 inch shorter than 1963) I hope this helps. GM has a date coding system. Google it and you will find how to read your cables. * I sell this on CD for $10 plus postage.
  11. You are correct, Tom. A service Bulletin was issued on February 22, 1963 listing several possible interferences of the 4-note horns with things under the hood on the driver's side. They are in Bulletin number 63-48, in Group 11, sequence number 11-10. Some of them came up when they moved both horns to that side. Others were intended to be dealt with on the assembly line but were missed. </begin shameless plug> I sell the Service Bulletins on CD for all 3 years of the First Gen. Rivs. Email me if you would like to buy any or all of them.. Cheap. Really. </end shameless plug> I'm glad to hear that the horns sound good with the ground wire added.
  12. Correct! Once you add one ground wire, you have grounded the entire hood. The other horn gets its ground through the hood.
  13. It goes under the rear-most horn mounting screw that mounts the trumpet to the underside of the hood. The shop manual was written and printed BEFORE the Buick engineers decided that they needed to add a muffler to the A/C system on the '63 Riviera. So it shows the horns separated under the hood, one over by the A/C compressor and one by the brake booster. Not too long into production the muffler was added. That forced them to move the small trumpet over to the driver's side (and add a dimple to the big black vacuum storage reservoir on the inner fender). That is the way most cars should be. Only the very early Rivs (with FB number 4000 and lower) should have no A/C muffler, no dimple in the can, and the small trumpet on the passenger side, if so equipped.
  14. I purchased the Quartz Conversion Kit from them for my '63 Riviera clock. It's not that hard to put in and it has worked great ever since (many years now). I, too, painted the hands of the clock and polished the bezel while it was apart. I don't remember the cost of the kit. They don't have a price on their website.